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    CGINGA IV
    18 Posts · 21 Followers · 30 Photos · 179 Likes
    Began 5 months ago by
    Lieutenant
    United Kingdom
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    Latest Post 8 days ago by
    Lieutenant
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    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    📝 Inga1V
    8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 34 Views · 10 Likes · 6 Comments
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    To anybody attempting building from scratch then think it through stage by stage very carefully to avoid the stupid and basic mistakes by myself. When building the hull try to anticipate all of the through hull holes that will be needed and where they should be located you will then avoid having to use drill, files, wood chisel and Ford spanner (hammer) in a desperate and unprofessional manner.
    I think I have been lucky but my design of the stern although solid had to be basically rebuilt fortunately no change to the boats outward appearance nor its inherent strength.
    The photos describe the work done better than words, now I am past the trauma I am enjoying the build again. I just hope for no repeat performance on another part of the build.
    Forgot to mention the rudder is made from 2mm brass sheet braised onto a brass rudder stock. The servo controlling it is a Futaba S3003. The motor is a 600 with no known pedigree, Prop shaft, tube, coupling and prop are all easily recognised off the shelf components.
    I will now go for a lie down in a darkened room to recover from this and the mountain of emails that have been flying around today from our website, amazing.
    Best regards to all ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 16 Views · 2 Likes
    Flag
    Hello Duncan
    Good to hear from you, the advice from Roy cannot be faulted, the sheets should go to the boom ends via the most central and direct route. The three on Inga, one from the transom to Mizzen boom, through the cabin roof to Main boom and forward to foresail all central to deck. Not particularly pretty but has to be.
    Can I suggest you obtain a copy of Nylett BB3 "how to" a most brilliant brochure describing all you need to know about all aspects of sails, setting them up, tuning them all for a give away
    £7.50 when I bought mine. If for any reason you cannot get a copy feel free to contact me I maybe can help.
    The build by mturpin MTINGA 1V shows a great below deck sail control system, well worth checking out.
    Take care ChrisG
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 16 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hello Len
    Thanks for your observation and you could well be correct, I will buy a suitable brass prop when I am sure of the size it needs but she will be for the most part a sailing ship with an effective get me hope method. Thanks for the interest ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    7 days ago by 🇺🇸 Len1 ( Midshipman)
    ✧ 17 Views · 2 Likes
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    Not a criticism but just an observation, the prop looks a little small. Len
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    8 days ago by 🇧🇪 hermank ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 33 Views · 2 Likes
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    Chris a good afternoon
    Of you Need a sleeping medicine for your Little nap let me know and i will sent you some😂
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    8 days ago by 🇬🇧 DuncanP ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 33 Views · 3 Likes
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    I'm trying to work out where to drill holes for the sail sheets (ropes) in the deck to control the sails on the Bruma kit that I'm trying to modify to also be a sailing boat. I thought this was a good idea before starting the planking so I can see better where everything will go! I'll be interested to see how you are planning to control the various sails. Again I thought I would plan the location of motor, servos and winch before planking - again so I can get a better view! Recently I've been building the cabin top which needed a combination of varnish and white painted coach roofs. It all takes time waiting for the various layers to dry! Need to waterproof the frames before planking.
    I cut an extra hole in the stern bulkhead because from someone else's comment , otherwise there isn't enough space for the rudder arm to move fully! So I agree with you about planning - even on a kit! 😊
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    8 days ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 35 Views · 5 Likes
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    Hi Chris no need to chastise yourself! You have been through a learning curve and come out the other side having assimilated much of what you need to know.

    Actually doing and asking is a good way of learning rather than just reading about it.
    If you get the chance of getting on and helping to sail a yacht, not a dinghy you will learn a lot more.
    regards
    Roy
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    📝 Inga1V
    18 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 55 Views · 9 Likes · 4 Comments
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    Just a quick update, firstly as mturpin013 also has a build blog running for his beautiful build of INGA1V and to avoid confusion we agree to arrange to change the titles of our build blogs, soon no doubt.
    Meanwhile I have hopefully completed the rubbing down and painting the hull of my boat finishing with 1500grit wet and dry, what a long job but so satisfying when all seems to go right.
    Photo attached and I am scared to touch it 😂😂😂and it no longer looks like a beached Dolphin thank goodness.
    Regards ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    8 days ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 33 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Duncan. The holes or tubes from the deck should be placed as close to underneath where the sheet connects with the sailboom.
    This ensures that the sails all go out at the same angle.

    Roy
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    18 days ago by 🇬🇧 tiggy_cat ( Master Seaman)
    ✧ 52 Views · 1 Like
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    Wow, Chris . That looks superb!
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    18 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 54 Views · 1 Like
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    Hello Alessandro,
    I did think it looked like a beached dolphin not a sight I would wish to see I should add.
    I have always wanted to build a large model J class yacht and some years ago, after a discussion with another contributor Roy on this site decided one it was too large for me to manage and too costly to build. I particularly liked Tommy Sopwiths Endeavour so for my build I have pinched his colour scheme for her and glad you like it as I do. All the best ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    18 days ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 59 Views · 1 Like
    Flag
    Hi ChrisG.

    The definition of beached dolphin made me laugh.

    I really like the colors you chose.

    Is it your customization or are they the original ones?

    In any case, you did a really good job.
    📝 Inga1V
    25 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 70 Views · 11 Likes · 4 Comments
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    The hull has been primed after being sanded and finished with P38 filler and upturned looks so much like a dolphin that I am thinking of naming the finished boat just that.
    That or Aquarius not sure.
    I also did a float test and was pleased overall with the trim although she is still light, the two 1kg bags of lead shot put her right so now the hull weight including ballast is 7.5kgs and she sits nicely and very much in line with the waterline marking on the Revell plan. I also like that the two bags of lead shot can be repositioned or removed as necessary and will allow different batteries as required.
    I intend to paint the hull as my nervousness with the use of GRP resin continues and is not helped by the cold weather.
    Best regards ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    23 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 64 Views · 2 Likes
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    I thought when I started to read Roycv post that he was about to suggest we had a whip round to get a few quid in the kitty to make an offer for the real Inga1V and have it as a club yacht, I then realised it was to remind all interested what a beautiful yacht she is.
    Thanks Roy although I am tempted to stray from the plan and attempt a changed topsides, not sure yet but many thanks ChrisG
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    24 days ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 69 Views · 4 Likes
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    Hi all this is the full size Inga IV may still be for sale. If you want authentic detail look at the photos.
    Might be a good idea before committing to the model plans.
    regards
    Roy


    https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100048676124076
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    24 days ago by 🇬🇧 Doogle ( Commander)
    ✧ 71 Views · 2 Likes
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    Looking good, well done 👏
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    24 days ago by 🇬🇧 DuncanP ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 70 Views · 1 Like
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    Looking good but that is only to be expected from yourself. Well done!
    Cheers Duncan 😊
    📝 Inga 1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 74 Views · 5 Likes · 1 Comment
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    This week has seen me requesting help, getting help and being able to proceed with confidence. After masking the wooden parts I wish to glue wood to wood I painted the whole of the inner hull generously with GRP resin. With this in a heated garage to cure I cut and hammered the lead flashing into three compact lumps to fit between the three central hull sections. The Lead flux was cut into 100mm lengths which were positioned for the most part in the five most central sections of the hull. This resulted in four kgs of ballast in the central part of the hull as recommended by Roy, thanks.
    This ballast was floated in 600cc of resin and has now cured and is solid. The weight of the hull inclusive but without battery is five and a half kgs.
    I now have the flexibility to position the two kgs of bagged lead shot anywhere in the hull and the size and position of the battery to be decided.
    All up weight 8kgs +/-
    Thank you all for your help ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga 1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 78 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Chris.

    I follow your progress with interest and curiosity.

    Accompanying written explanations with images is an excellent thing, which makes me understand well what you are doing. Thank you.
    📝 Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 90 Views · 6 Likes · 17 Comments
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    I am in need of help associated with my Inga1V build please.
    I am finding it impossible to calculate at this stage an approximate weight of ballast for her and comparing with my donor hull does not make things much clearer.
    My hull weight as seen in my last post is 1.2kg
    Motor and battery weight anticipated 1.6kg
    In the assembly instructions it states "The complete hull with RC system, motor, power packs but excluding railings, cabin superstructure, masts and tackle should weigh between 8.5 and 9.5kg".
    It then goes on to state that the difference between my all up weight of 1.2 plus 1.6kg and the 8.5 and 9.5kg is ballast weight. This gives a ballast weight required in the region of 6kg.
    The weight of the kit hull in GRP is an unknown but this ballast weight of over 6kg seems a lot.
    I have 4.2kg of good clean lead should I resin that in the bilges permanently and expect to have to do a final bath trial to finalise the weight positioning and distribution or have I missed something glaringly obvious.
    My donor hull to confuse me even more weighs in at 5.4kg and that is an original kit supplied hull with ballast and motor and generous battery.
    I would be so pleased if at least one of you could confirm that I am on the right path.
    Thank you ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 78 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hello Michael
    Yes the plan does give a waterline, I have 6kg of ballast in a variety of types all clean lead. I am hoping to resin 4kg low down in the central bilge areas. I have also acquired 2kg of lead shot in 1kg bags that I will be able to place where needed and will be movable now and in the future.
    Any information that you come up with will be useful and will help me and others who decide to build one of these beauties in the future.
    I plan to fit the prop shaft next as it impacts a lot on the lower hull and where all the ballast needs to fit.
    Thanks so much for the help ChrisG
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 80 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Chris I will weigh my hull as soon as I get chance and then put it in my test tank hopefully then take some pictures and maybe take some measurements,
    As long as you leave space in the hull ballast can be added later when you can do a bath test, I'm sure the plan gives a water line
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 81 Views · 0 Likes
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    «Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem.»

    «Frustra fit per plura quod fieri potest per pauciora.»

    Ahahahah.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇩🇪 RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 83 Views · 2 Likes
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    Stand easy Capt. Roy,
    Congratulations, you have, through your determined efforts and exemplary application of Occam's Razor, achieved the 8th electron shell of the quantum dimension and have earned a Mention In Despatches and the right to learn the ultimate answer to the universe and everything (including the empirical method of determining ballast required for a model boat or ship).
    The answer being (of course🙄) "forty-two". AKA: Rule of thumb or Suck it and see!😁

    @ChrisG, Alessandro, and any other interested parties, see next post on this thread!
    Same time same channel😁

    😎
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 78 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Chris, I enjoyed reading their jokey posts.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 80 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Alessandro

    Thanks for your kind concern I do believe or hope that most of the "gobble de gook" in the most recent blogs from Roy luckyduck and our esteemed fleet admiral are a tongue in cheek way that the British have of " having a laugh". The build is coming along fine despite all of the verbal nonsense.
    I think I am wise enough to know when someone is taking the wee wee.
    Thank you again for your concern and I hope Google translates this well for you.
    Very best regards ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 79 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Doug and Roy.

    It's already difficult for me to translate and understand simple and common things, but if you use big protoalactic words I get lost, ahahahahahah!
    She seemed like the "supecazzola" from the movie "Amici Miei".

    Chris worked hard and fervently, but not anymore.

    Joking aside, I don't want to have the opposite effect and instead of helping Chris with his work we slow him down and create even more confusion for him.

    The discussion of Roy's prismatic coefficient is certainly not a solution to be discarded, but precisely because Roy (now the godfather of this construction) has already built the model he can provide all the data to Chris.
    If I understand correctly, it is the same model and the same dimensions.
    If I misunderstood, stop me immediately.
    Again, if I understand correctly, Roy suggests obtaining the immersed volume by applying the inverse formula of the prismatic coefficient.
    The data to know are, in fact, the prismatic coefficient and the volume of the prism. It would be enough for Roy to provide them to Chris and we could see if it is a reliable result.
    Immersed volume = volume of the prism X prismatic coefficient.
    The only doubt is whether it can be applied to keels that are not parallel but oblique, I don't know.

    I don't know the prismatic coefficient of the Inga1V but for fun I calculated that of my model.
    I don't want to "clog up" Chris's topics with other images that don't fit with his construction so I'll report the details on my topic.
    I can say that to calculate the immersed volume I applied another method.

    Chris, any theoretical calculation needs feedback in the water, in my opinion.
    Wanting to use logic, then I tell you to do the test in the water directly, but after having well waterproofed the hull and drawn your waterline.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 84 Views · 3 Likes
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    Fleet Admiral, Sir!

    I have feared the Helsenburg Uncertainty Principle has indeed reached its half life and my coefficients have also followed the same path.
    I can no longer with any certainty, due to as you say, refractive angular distortion, maintain my past Certainties and fear a fractious disintergration of my own Block Coefficient as a consequence.

    Distortions in my data storage elements have created a dichotomy of Certainty within the Uncertainty principle in Helsenberg's theory.

    This has caused differing elements within my own coefficients to distort and delineate my perception of data as received.

    Consequently any non-specific and distant contact with unspecified or uncertain data will contain an element of predictable uncertainty.

    I have as a consequence retained my "Rule of Thumb" and my "That's about right" mantra to enable me to maintain a sedentary life in my armchair!

    Uncertainly Yours

    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇩🇪 RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 89 Views · 3 Likes
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    Dear Roy,Also useful stuff, at least interesting.
    But I feel you may have overlooked the dilithium half-life degradation coefficient of the data storage elements, which can dramatically affects the distortion ratio of the output Block Coefficient data.
    Agreed Prismatic coefficient CAN be more accurate; depending on the prevailing atmospheric conditions and resultant refractive angular distortion and tropospheric scattering.
    All of this is, of course, subject to Heisenberg's Uncertainty Principle which renders any such calculation invalid except for a specific moment in time, and pre-supposing you are not directly looking at the test object at that precise moment of measurement!

    😎
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 86 Views · 6 Likes
    Flag
    Hi Luckyduck, all usefuls stuff. One of the first (and few) computer programmes I wrote back in 1967/8 was a printout of look up tables for model boats and yachts, by size and type.
    Back then the computer had a room of its own and had individual transistors in the circuit boards.

    I read an English University Press (EUP) book called teach your self Naval Architecture. It is easy to understand and is nice and basic.

    What you have got is the block coeffecient calculations, if you have access to the centre under water bulkhead area you can get a slightly more accurate answer using the Prismatic coefficient. Yachts fall into a bit less than 0.5 to 0,55.

    Don't be put off by the long words, it is a good read that is useful. For model yachts a very old book on model yachts by Colonel Bowden gives a lot of insight.
    However do not get caught up in his circular arc ideas they are not at all effective. But I do use his CLR and C of E ideas and his in / out wedge balancing of the volume of the hull comparing being upright and heeled over..

    At the end of the day if you find a drawing of a hull that is what you want go for it!

    Incidently and perhaps it might suit some older forum members I find using good old fashioned fractions is more convenient than more usual decimal ones.

    Once you have your head around fractions they are also quicker and simpler to use. I suppose this is for mental arithmetic and not the calculator!

    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 luckyduck ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 86 Views · 4 Likes
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    Chris
    I have been trying to do the same calculations, and found this formula which might help. It is based apparently on full navla architects calculations:
    simple formula to determine the estimated all-up weight of a model:-

    Displacement formula

    When:-
    A = length* between stem and stern perpendiculars at plan waterline
    B = moulded breadth*
    C = draft*
    D = displacement in kilogrammes
    Y= multiplier**
    * in decimetres
    ** ‘Y’ is a ‘guestimate, which assumes that the underwater volume of the immersed hull is not constant throughout its entire length, i.e. less water is displaced at the bow (swim) and stern (deadwood) than at midships. I use Y= 0.6 for ‘bathtub’ hulls and Y = 0.5 for yachts or other sleeker craft with their finer underwater lines. By comparision, a square biscuit tin would warrant a multiplier of Y = 1.0

    Therefore:-
    Displacement (kg) = (A*B*C)*Y
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 89 Views · 7 Likes
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    Hi Chris I would not worry too much about the all up weight. Another kilogram will only drop the hull half a centimetre and Inga will not notice it.
    As far as dispersing the weight inside the hull I would keep it as central as possible.

    If you think of the hull as a dumbell, there all the weight is at the ends, it will have greater inertia to turning, where as if the weight is at the centre she will respond to the rudder much quicker.

    Although I have reverse for the motor it is hardly effective if there is any wind but with the motor on forward it can help a lot if the shore is too near and you need to tack.

    The biggest drawback with the super structure is that the aft mast is through the cabin that comes off so you have to spend a lot of time to gain access to the insides.

    If you fit the quick release type hooks for the shrouds that Bearospace Gary uses it would be much easier.

    I expect you have thought of it but I reinforce any where on the deck that has to have a screw thread or eye located. If you use screw-in eyes for the shrouds they look a lot better if you slip a close fitting washer on first.

    A freind built the Inga IV yacht using the hull I gave him, would you believe in 4 weeks! He split the cabin in two for ease of access. It was not a great success but a few feet from the bank it was hard to tell.
    regards
    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 88 Views · 5 Likes
    Flag
    Thank you Alessandro for taking the time to send me a long and comprehensive list of suggestions all of which will be helpful, and you are quite correct in your comment that Roy is well qualified to offer advice I think his knowledge of boats large and small would be hard to equal.
    Again grazie and buonasera, ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 87 Views · 6 Likes
    Flag
    Hi Chris, I just read your post.

    I was about to reply but I saw that Roy posted two replies, which I read.

    My intent is to help you, but I must say that you are lucky to have a modeler who has already built the same boat as you, like Roy.
    In my opinion he gave you the right directions.
    If your models are of the same scale (as I think) follow his instructions.

    Consider that he has put on 9 kg. Your design says max 9.5 kg. It's okay not to get as far as allowed. It's okay not to go to the limit especially in the early stages of construction.

    I totally agree with Roy, put the ballast as low as possible. Is very important.

    I advised you to paint the hull first and then put it in a bathtub, because in this way, you can adjust the trim of the ship before definitively fixing the ballast by resining it. You will avoid unpleasant surprises such as having the model too stern or too bowed.
    I remain with this idea.

    If you can also add ballast later, do the calculations for 8.5 kg, so don't put all 6 kg available.
    For the moment just put 4 or 5 and check the setup.
    This cannot ignore drawing, first of all the waterline, it is fundamental.
    There is little use in doing a static test in the water if you don't first have your waterline clearly drawn on the hull.
    Do you know how to do it?

    If your model will displace 8.5 kg instead of 9.5 kg (expected by the designer) you will have greater freeboard (distance between the deck and the waterline roughly).
    This is not a bad thing, in fact it is better if you have a good straightening pair anyway.
    Roy, in fact, rightly stopped at 9 kg.

    If you create the possibility of adding half a kg or a kg later, that's even better. But you have to make sure that this weight can be placed low.

    I hope I have been clear and of a little help.


    P.S. after your last post, which I had not read before preparing this answer, I add the following:

    Don't just put the weight below the waterline it must be as low as possible.
    The keel designed in this way also serves that purpose.
    The weight in the lower part will do its job better, that is, create a righting thrust as opposed to skidding.
    A better weight position will allow you to use less of it for straightening purposes.

    Please, waterproof the outside of the hull well with paint before the water test.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 88 Views · 6 Likes
    Flag
    Hello Roy and thank you so very much your the help, it is much appreciated and I was hoping I would hear from you.
    I am surprised that the original grp hull weighs in at a similar weight to my wooden one and it does make sense of things. Your recommendations seem sound and I shall be referring to them as I proceed.
    My initial plan is to resin the inside of the hull and re weigh it before placing around 5kg of ballast low down and along the hull below the waterline and securing the it with more resin.
    I will trim the boat in the bath (my wife will really appreciate that) and use movable but secure bags of shot to achieve a final trim when the model is about complete.
    I am pleased that you are recovering from your injury and wish you good health, thanks again ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 90 Views · 5 Likes
    Flag
    Hello again Chris. Get as much weight as possible as low as possible. If you use lead shot allowing for the airgaps it comes in as the same weight as steel/iron on an equal volume basis.

    You must either support it within the hull (bolts lodged in the lead and firmly fixed to the hull frames) or a glass cloth sheeth around the planking and well up the sides etc to stop it snapping off the hull planking.

    Otherwise it may flex the area where the lead keel meets the wooden parts of the hull, eventually leading to a mechanical failure.

    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 90 Views · 5 Likes
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    Hello Chris G. Just weighed my Inga in complete sailing order. My one comes in at 9 Kgrms.

    When I first had her she had more stuff inside and about another kilogram I would guess.

    She sailed nicely then and still does, although a little lighter, so not critical.

    Would have done this for you before but I have had a right shoulder injury that stopped me picking her up. Almost fixed now.

    I run her on a 7.2 volt 3.3 Ahr battery pack which is less weight than your forecast. The Inga fibre hull is exteremely light I think 900 grams or so, I had a bare hull some time ago since passed on.
    Maybe compare the weight of your hull the way she is now to work out actual keel weight.

    Good luck your planked hull looks really good.

    Roy
    📝 Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 98 Views · 10 Likes · 5 Comments
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    Inner gunwales fitted and glued, this has made it an extremely rigid and firm hull and not yet resin coated on the inside.
    I have been looking at the positioning of the motor, the couplings and the length of the prop shaft and it looks a very tight fit. Before fitting the motor and prop shaft I need to decide on ballast, how much and where it will go in the hull, complicated by being unable to do a float test with the hull as it is to identify the waterline.
    Decisions, decisions, decisions.
    ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 91 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Chris.
    Certainly! You are absolutely right!
    Sorry but I took it for granted.
    The model must absolutely not be wet before being well painted.
    The wood must be totally waterproof, otherwise it will get ruined and you will make a mess.
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 93 Views · 1 Like
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    Thank you Roy and I agree totally that Inga1V is first and foremost a yacht and the motor is a " get me home " addition to the sails therefore I will probably go for a new and unused 600 that I have and a large carefully placed battery that will also add to ballast if needed, thanks "luckyduck" for that idea.
    As for a float test Alessandro, I intend not to float her until their is some protection for the planking whether it be paint or resin and that is yet to be decided. I understand your reservations but the lightness of the planked hull has made me think again thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
    Thanks to you all for your interest and help ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 DuncanP ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 98 Views · 2 Likes
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    Looking great!😊
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 luckyduck ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 96 Views · 4 Likes
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    Do the plans not give any clue? Even images of the real thing would give you a ball park to work to, then give allowance for all the extra weights of fittings, deck, etc. In my yachts I have also used a far heavier battery than normal, as it is a great way of adding ballast without having to use yet more expensive lead, sorting the battery size and position might also aid your decisions.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 97 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Chris.

    The work continues as best as possible but why can't you do a test in the water?
    In my opinion it is very important.

    I don't think it's better to put the ballast first and then the engine.
    I would do just the opposite because with the engine you have fewer possibilities of useful positions, while the ballast can be managed as you want as long as it is as low as possible.
    Why do you prefer to put the ballast first and then the engine?

    When positioning the engine, remember the longitudinal quarter rule.

    You absolutely must know the displacement and you can do it either through the data of the real boat, applying the scaling factor, or in the water.
    Either inside or outside you have to wet it.
    But you have to draw the water line yourself, first of all.

    If you want I can provide you with more details, if you need just ask.
    📝 Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 102 Views · 12 Likes · 4 Comments
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    I have nearly finished the initial pre primer filling and sanding and my impressions of a very white Santa. I have now decided to remove the hull from the very large building board to have a first look inside the hull, I am actually very pleased with the result and surprised that with the frame supports still complete and in place the whole things weighs in at only 1600g.
    She is now back on my workbench in the house with me trying to decide my next task.
    I think a 5mm inner gunwale will be a good start then a tidy up to remove unwanted sections of the frames and then one or two coats of resin before trying to calculate ballast weights and position. I have acquired some unused lead roof flashing, not I hasten to add from the local church roof, but need several kilos more. I have given myself so much to do this winter it is frightening but hey ho.
    Good wishes to all and I hope you have all managed to avoid all or most of the flooding which has been shocking.
    All the very best ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 95 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Roy.

    I also used this trick: a lower voltage to limit the number of turns.
    On one model, 1/50 scale, [which I haven't shown so far] I have a 24 volt brushed motor. A beast!
    They gave it to me as a gift, it was probably from a truck.
    Well on this model I run it at a maximum of 6 volts, even if I did some tests at 12 volts.
    But at 12 volts it is too fast for the type of vessel.
    It has a non-planing displacement hull.
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    1 month ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 97 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi nice seeing the hull as you build her. Thought you might like to know what motor my one has.
    Being a yacht hull she does not need much power to drive her along.

    I use a Monoperm super with a 1 : 2 gear reduction and a large prop. Power is very modest and you will need no more than 10 Watts of power.

    You might consider a 12 volt or higher voltage largish motor but running on a lower voltage battery. As an example a 20 volt motor running on 6 volts will turn a large prop and you do not need a gearbox.

    You can run on a much lower voltage even down to 2 or 3 volts (1 liPo).
    An esc will run such a motor at a low voltage if you disconnect the red servo lead from the esc but you will need to have a separate Rx battery.

    Regards
    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 103 Views · 1 Like
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    That looks really good Chris, an achievement to be proud of
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 tiggy_cat ( Master Seaman)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Amazing job, so far👍
    📝 Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 111 Views · 7 Likes · 5 Comments
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    By way of a break from filling and sanding which is getting boring but necessary I decided to attempt to make the masts and booms in wood as with the original model and of course the real thing. I had considered Groovy Alloy but rejected that idea as it would stray from the original rig and also the price and difficulty in sourcing it.
    I have a router and Dremel and considered how I could best use these to achieve a slot and a channel for the sails to sit in. Having seen a few friends with serious finger damage inflicted while using routers, and it seems a common injury decided to think of a different method.
    The solution seemed to be using hardwood machine moulded lengths from off the shelf, the photograph of what I ended up with is self explanatory and I am quite pleased with the result although it needs tweaking and reducing in size. Certainly an idea worth considering, anybody out there done something similar?
    Regards ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 111 Views · 0 Likes
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    Thank you
    I will take account of all of your recommendations and it seems that smooth surfaces would seem to be paramount. I am a long way from masts and rigging but a great deal of the pleasure of this type of build is the planning and I am sure you all would agree so I will keep all of this advice for the future.
    Many thanks and best regards ChrisG
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 110 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Chris as we discussed the method you have suggested will work provided you make sure the grooves are properly smoothed before gluing together, I would suggest you apply Ronseal wood hardener to the groves then smooth with at least 600 grit wet and dry before gluing together, then make a scraper that is the profile of the groove so you can drag it through the groove after initial gluing to ensure there isn't any glue left in the groove.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 luckyduck ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 108 Views · 2 Likes
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    Chris - the inside of the sail groove needs to be as smooth as possible, as the outer edge of the groove. Sail cloth does not like any rough edges of any sort, and it will only take a couple of sailings in windy weather, and the sail material will start to wear away. You almost need a 400 grit finish on anywhere the sail will rub.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 109 Views · 1 Like
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    I should have added that the mast pieces in the kit are, each mast in 2 pieces. They are divided down the centre line of the yacht. With a groove in each side with the major part of the mast aft and solid. So that both parts are similar.

    Hope this helps.
    Roy
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 roycv ( Commodore)
    ✧ 109 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Chris, just a few days ago I was tweeking the sails in my Inga IV. The gap needs to be about 1mm and the sails need to have a rope or wire inserted in a seem which goes inside the mast. This allows for a loose fit and the wire or rope retains the sail in place.

    If you had gone for a groovy ally mast then the sail edge that is located adjacent to the mast is best fitted with a series of plastic tubes about an inch long every couple of inches.
    In both cases this allows for the sail to set with the wind.

    If the sail is inserted into the small gap in your picture it will hold the material firmly and the sail will have to bend as it comes free of the mast.
    My very first mast was like this, it did not work!

    The sail had a bend in it going the wrong way. I made a new one which works OK.

    regards
    Roy
    📝 Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 121 Views · 13 Likes · 5 Comments
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    After a great deal of gnashing of teeth and cussing and swearing a friend managed to thwart Microsoft and Apple from stopping me from being able to download photos. This as a result of an obligatory so called upgrade, bless their cotton socks.
    So hopefully those interested will be able to see what I have been up to in the last couple of months.
    Planning the future of the build is great fun and quite complicated but is helped enormously by having the doner model to copy and measure and lots of support especially from mturpin013, who is also deeply involved in his own lovely Inga 4 model.
    Thanks for the interest and support ChrisG

    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Colin H ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 117 Views · 4 Likes
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    Chris it's looking very good, don't knock your methods, it's the end result that's important to you, it's your model so if you like it then it's great.
    Cheers Colin.
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    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 116 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Michael and Duncan
    Thanks for the kind words they are appreciated I would just like to have achieved a much better level of finish instead of having to rely on my friend P38. In the end I expect the model to look good and maybe even sail well but the "the old man" who built boats when they were works of art did it without P38 just a bit of caulking.
    I am not going to beat myself up but just want my modelling friends on this great site to understand that I recognise my shortcomings.
    After that confession I will really enjoy proceeding with the build.
    Enjoy your evening ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 117 Views · 1 Like
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    That's looking really good Chris I'm sure you got a lot of satisfaction from that method and the result looking so good.
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 DuncanP ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 117 Views · 1 Like
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    Looking really great. You must now have a great deal of satisfaction from what you have achieved. Sit back and admire your achievement so far. Well done! 😊
    💬 Re: Inga1V
    2 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 122 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi ChrisG.

    I am very pleased and happy that in the Chris Vs PC battle, you won, ahahahah,
    but remember that the war with PCs is long, this is just one battle! Ahahahah.
    thanks for the photos.
    📝 Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 128 Views · 10 Likes · 5 Comments
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    I just wish to share my good news and a coincidence, I glued the first plank to the hull of my model on the 2nd August 2023 and have glued the last hull plank today on the 2nd October 2023, and gentleman believe it or not it was not contrived.
    To be honest I am rather pleased as I was getting rather bored doing the same task day in and day out which proved necessary due to the plank sizes all 62 of them each 8mm wide and 3mm thick and waiting for glue to go off.
    My plan now is to sand it, fill that which needs it and probably resin the inside to waterproof it. Not sure how I will finish to outside of the hull, maybe try resin coating that as well as weight on this build needs little consideration.
    I will say that it is a monster, just glad I have a large car with a big boot.
    Best regards ChrisG

    Sorry I think I posted this in the wrong place.

    💬 Re: Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 127 Views · 1 Like
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    Sorry ChrisG, I couldn't find the photo and then I forgot about it.
    Now I will re-edit the message and insert it.
    But you are right to choose your favorites, if you already have them.
    I'm not an expert and I'm not good at painting but I also prefer Humbrol. Now, however, in the European community the old Humbrols, which were exceptional, are banned, only warehouse remnants can be found. The new Humbrols are not the same.

    I'm glad you love Rome, I'm also a lover of Rome.
    As a history enthusiast in general and Roman and medieval history in particular, I have also read a lot about the history of your great nation. It has always fascinated me.
    I already visited London years ago with my wife and son but I would like to return to visit other places in the United Kingdom.
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    💬 Re: Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 124 Views · 1 Like
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    Hello Alessandro
    The photo I have not received but no matter like you I have my favourites. On this build I will probably use spray can primer and then Humbrol which I am a fan of, with a good brush and a good surface the finish if all goes well is fabulous.
    I envy you living in Italy and especially one of my favourite cities to visit, Rome I just love your country.
    All the best ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 127 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi ChrisG.

    I used this paint here in the photo and I liked it, but there are many similar ones on the market. It is not worth saving on paint.
    In my opinion you are right not to resin on the outside if you are not absolutely sure.
    Don't worry, I'll translate, so I'll try to improve my English.
    💬 Re: Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 127 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Alessandro
    Thank you for this and your previous comments and the plank bending tool you recommended I have but it was not helpful in this application.
    Like you I am scared of resin for the final finish and am scared of messing up lots of hours of effort so I also use lots of coats of paint and am generally pleased with the finish.
    As for the downhill I am not sure of that, there is more work ahead of me than behind me but as winter approaches it will ensure I have a stimulating and busy winter period.
    I thank you for your interest and apologise for not translating for you but my computer skills are more limited than yours so I hope you can do it on receipt.
    Photos will follow when I have tidied up a bit, it is chaos in my workroom with such a monster on the bench 🤣🤣
    Best regards ChrisG
    💬 Re: Inga 1v
    2 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 127 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi CrisG.

    You must have put in a lot of effort, but it deserves to be seen.
    Why don't you post some photos? I'd like to see them.

    As for the resin, I totally agree with putting it inside the hull. In fact, the resin waterproofs and makes the hull very resilient.

    I don't put it outside because I'm scared.
    Not being good, I'm afraid of making a mess.
    Outside I only rely on many coats of paints and enamels.

    However, once you have passed the hull you are now downhill.

    talian-English translation from Google
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