I am pushing the boat out really early in fact in its embryonic stage for this build blog and I might regret it but hope not.
It has been my dream of some weeks that my preferred build for the future would be a great looking motor sailor and the one I settled on was Inga 1v and with encouragement from roycv who has in his harbour a splendid example set the ball rolling.
There does not seem to be much interest out there for this model mainly due to there being is no kits available, nor plans, nor plastic hulls being produced simply lots of pictures and of course some beautiful completed models.
First step and many thanks to tiggy_cat for sending me a set of plans for this model which arrived today. They are produced by Revell and are for the topsides which is great but leaves me with one of the challenges of my life that of drawing, stealing, borrowing whatever a plan of the hull shape. I fear that if I attempt to accurately draw the frames for the hull it might end sailing sideways.
Anyway as somebody once said `I have started so I will finish` interested then watch this space. Regards ChrisG
I am pushing the boat out really early in fact in its embryonic stage for this build blog and I might regret it but hope not.
It has been my dream of some weeks that my preferred build for the future would be a great looking motor sailor and the one I settled on was Inga 1v and with encouragement from roycv who has in his harbour a splendid example set the ball rolling.
There does not seem to be much interest out there for this model mainly due to there being is no kits available, nor plans, nor plastic hulls being produced simply lots of pictures and of course some beautiful completed models.
First step and many thanks to tiggy_cat for sending me a set of plans for this model which arrived today. They are produced by Revell and are for the topsides which is great but leaves me with one of the challenges of my life that of drawing, stealing, borrowing whatever a plan of the hull shape. I fear that if I attempt to accurately draw the frames for the hull it might end sailing sideways.
Anyway as somebody once said
Hi Chris I am currently refurbishing an Inga IV and have a blog running, albeit slow at the moment. Its a great yacht very traditional with style which I think is missing from most of the yacht models available, good look with your build.
I was wrong when I said there was little interest in this model on the contrary she seems much loved by those either lucky enough to own one or those engaged in a time consuming and skilful renovation. I saw for the first time today the beautiful work being done by mturpin013 on his build blog INGA1V.
I am very lucky to have been steered by roycv into some helpful avenues which hopefully end up with me having a hull plan to work from. This is proving difficult and at this time apart from knowing the models length, beam, draft and that she has a long keel with full length ballast is all I know.
I have been told that Coribee and Vic Smeeds Petrel have similar hull shapes but both plans are for bread and butter construction which I am not interested in. I have sent for other model magazine back issues which hopefully will help.
I think this is going to be a long haul before any building starts, I have the consolation of knowing that I can occasionally look at Roys beautiful finished model and Mikes soon to be finished for encouragement.
All the best ChrisG
I have found among my books a copy of Scratch Building Marine Models by Richard Webb which shows several hull building methods including planking which interests me and the fundamental art and basic rules of drawing a hull. On the back of this I have ordered A3 sheets of graph paper, a new pristine A3 cutting mat with grid lines, also a flexible French curved ruler and a set of 3 French curved rulers.
I am seriously falling into the category of "all the gear and no idea" 🤣🤣🤣
Incidentally I also found The Model Boat Book from the 1940`s which has some beautiful classic sailing and power craft featured, one chapter from a forgotten time is "A Jetex Power Hydroplane" with full plan and photo of it being admired by Sir Malcolm Campbell. The hydroplane was shown running, tethered in a circular boat pond after the fuse was lit. Imagine the fun that our parents and grandparents had, a circular purpose built boat pond !!
Sorry, rabbiting on again have a good but possibly wet weekend regards ChrisG
I have found among my books a copy of Scratch Building Marine Models by Richard Webb which shows several hull building methods including planking which interests me and the fundamental art and basic rules of drawing a hull. On the back of this I have ordered A3 sheets of graph paper, a new pristine A3 cutting mat with grid lines, also a flexible French curved ruler and a set of 3 French curved rulers.
I am seriously falling into the category of "all the gear and no idea" 🤣🤣🤣
Incidentally I also found The Model Boat Book from the 1940`s which has some beautiful classic sailing and power craft featured, one chapter from a forgotten time is "A Jetex Power Hydroplane" with full plan and photo of it being admired by Sir Malcolm Campbell. The hydroplane was shown running, tethered in a circular boat pond after the fuse was lit. Imagine the fun that our parents and grandparents had, a circular purpose built boat pond !!
Sorry, rabbiting on again have a good but possibly wet weekend regards ChrisG
Hi Chris I have used French curves myself but they are not the correct curves for Naval architecture. Try the aforementioned for advice on the correct curves.
The problem is more noticeable with yacht lines. They should have an apple like cross section.
The plot thickens. With a lot of help from Ian, tiggy_cat, instead of coming up with a hull he has found me a 25+ year old model in need of serious TLC but complete with rig and sails just short of receiver and a dubious battery.
I collected it from the previous owner and it is all I could have expected or wanted for I consider a modest price.
My first impressions having it at home is beautiful hull, nice wooden masts with sail grooves for the luff and seemingly good set of sails. Lots of cosmetic work and maybe some rebuilding on the topsides, I cannot believe the weight of the hull, I am in danger of getting a hernia.
Early days but I now have my pattern for drawing and cutting frames for a plank on frame hull. Can I cope with a renovation as well as building a second Inga 1v from the plans?
Suggestions please 😂😂😂 Regards ChrisG
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The plot thickens. With a lot of help from Ian, tiggy_cat, instead of coming up with a hull he has found me a 25+ year old model in need of serious TLC but complete with rig and sails just short of receiver and a dubious battery.
I collected it from the previous owner and it is all I could have expected or wanted for I consider a modest price.
My first impressions having it at home is beautiful hull, nice wooden masts with sail grooves for the luff and seemingly good set of sails. Lots of cosmetic work and maybe some rebuilding on the topsides, I cannot believe the weight of the hull, I am in danger of getting a hernia.
Early days but I now have my pattern for drawing and cutting frames for a plank on frame hull. Can I cope with a renovation as well as building a second Inga 1v from the plans?
Suggestions please 😂😂😂 Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris it came through for you, It looks in similar condition than the one I managed to get, there's plenty of work to bring it back to a serviceable condition.
And in addition to do a plank on frame will be a challenge.
I think I would refurb the GRP hull and go for something else as a plank on frame challenge.
Thank you all for your interest, I enjoy sharing ideas with you all as much as I appreciate the help and experience that you are all willing to pass on.
I have several questions to answer so, the hull weight of the model including small battery and electrics comes out at just under eight kilos, I guess about 75% is probably the keel, That is a complete guess.
I have no wish for two of these yachts but would like to tidy this one up whilst building another using the plans I have plus the opportunity to measure the finished hull and using it as a template for the next plank on frame attempt. When finished one model would go as I havn`t space for two nor do I want two.
As for my french ruler, I have already tried using it but find although it will follow a shape quite accurately it has a tendency to spring back very slightly when not restrained which gives an inaccurate drawing line.
However I have a cunning plan said Baldrick 👍😋😋
I have had for many years lots of lengths of lead solder strips of about 600 x 5 x 2 mm Used for stained glass windows. These as well as being extremely flexible hold their shape when moved and can be used to make a pattern on card or direct onto ply. I would make a card cut out for a double check against the hull before marking and cutting 3.5mm ply for the frames.
Regards ChrisG
Thank you all for your interest, I enjoy sharing ideas with you all as much as I appreciate the help and experience that you are all willing to pass on.
I have several questions to answer so, the hull weight of the model including small battery and electrics comes out at just under eight kilos, I guess about 75% is probably the keel, That is a complete guess.
I have no wish for two of these yachts but would like to tidy this one up whilst building another using the plans I have plus the opportunity to measure the finished hull and using it as a template for the next plank on frame attempt. When finished one model would go as I havn`t space for two nor do I want two.
As for my french ruler, I have already tried using it but find although it will follow a shape quite accurately it has a tendency to spring back very slightly when not restrained which gives an inaccurate drawing line.
However I have a cunning plan said Baldrick 👍😋😋
I have had for many years lots of lengths of lead solder strips of about 600 x 5 x 2 mm Used for stained glass windows. These as well as being extremely flexible hold their shape when moved and can be used to make a pattern on card or direct onto ply. I would make a card cut out for a double check against the hull before marking and cutting 3.5mm ply for the frames.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris you were going to use mine as a template but your purchase made that not needed, however, in preparation I did make a profile as a test.
I marked the length of the keel (bow-Stern) using a length of masking tape and marked it every 50mm and the same around the deck so I could accurately place a piece of card vertically, to make the shape I used a "bendy" rule which holds its shape when pressed against the hull, this was then transferred to a piece of card and cut to shape. Placing this in position any inaccuracies were then delt with using a "round pencil" and rolling it along the profile, marking the card as it went along. I then cut along this new marked profile, this marking is as close as you will get to transfer to a ply former.
Sounds a bit long winded but it works.
Hello Mike
That sounds great, I have one of those profile tools but also in an earlier post mention 600mm lengths of lead flux bars which hold their shape beautifully, my intention is to draw around the shapes formed from the hull at various points and when satisfied transfer to card and again when satisfied use the template doubled, mirror image, to make and cut 3mm ply. I am sure we are reading from the same sheet.
I have not started any of this yet as I am trying to familiarise myself with my new heavy and large toy. Went down like a lead balloon at home particularly when I announced I was hoping to build a twin.
I built a new cradle for her today the other was horrid and I have been getting familiar with the rig, it all seems pretty good but just very chatty and unloved in an attic for many years. I have also started a shopping list for this one that is becoming frightening.
I would still like to travel up to see you sometime to compare notes.
Thanks for taking the time to convince me that my idea is do-able. Regards ChrisG
Hello Mike
Yes it works, I had to strip the model and secure anything loose then found when upside down the model can be supported by a shoe box thereby protecting the stanchions.
As you did I marked the keel and gunwales and used 100mm for the main body of the boat and an extra measurement of 50mm at bow and stern.
The Nimbus 1mtr yacht, and my large fishing boat also the yacht Romanza has spacings of 100mm between frames.
The results are as good as I wished for and certainly good enough to transfer onto card for a double check prior to ply for cutting out.
I will end up with 12 frames and the stern I am still undecided but am tempted to glue a solid section just aft of the end of the keel and carve and shape the lovely rounded curve of the stern. 🤔🤔
Regards ChrisG
Hello Mike
Yes it works, I had to strip the model and secure anything loose then found when upside down the model can be supported by a shoe box thereby protecting the stanchions.
As you did I marked the keel and gunwales and used 100mm for the main body of the boat and an extra measurement of 50mm at bow and stern.
The Nimbus 1mtr yacht, and my large fishing boat also the yacht Romanza has spacings of 100mm between frames.
The results are as good as I wished for and certainly good enough to transfer onto card for a double check prior to ply for cutting out.
I will end up with 12 frames and the stern I am still undecided but am tempted to glue a solid section just aft of the end of the keel and carve and shape the lovely rounded curve of the stern. 🤔🤔
Regards ChrisG
That sounds like a good plan. I have to say I may be asking you some question's as yours is more complete than mine, for instance, the size of winch servo, I'm thinking of using a drum type but am unsure of the number of turns required as I don't know how far the sails move, and sails which are missing from mine so that's another job for the sowing machine.
May I ask for a paper template?
Anyway Chris don't get bogged down with my issues, you have a big enough job dealing with yours
all the best Michael
Hello Michael,
I spent all day on Monday drawing 12 frames which involved so many measurements I became very confused and took a break. Today I started by cutting out one of the paper patterns folding it in half one side over the other, it was not a pretty sight. Of the twelve two were unacceptable and will have to be re-drawn so I am delighted to be able to take a break and reply to your mail sent yesterday.
My Inga came with a Hitec HS-765HB sail control servo the chap I bought it from installed it to operate all 3 sails and said he was happy with it. "Hobbies" have them on their website with the spec for just under £40.
I installed a PJS20 in my 1mtr Nimbus this is a drum winch from PJSails all the details are online in their catalogue and the price is £107 not bad when I paid £95 in 2015. This works the sails on the 1mtr Nimbus with the big rig very well and is a neat unit.
As for the sails, my Inga came with a full set and although clean, white and bright have been creased very badly and will probably need replacing as with most of the running rigging. Frank at Nylet is an extremely knowledgeable chap who knows all there is to know about sails and rigging, well that has been my experience and he is friendly and helpful. Now he sells a complete sail set for the Inga £149 but he also sells 3.5oz Dacron sailcloth at £23 per mtr. He would also supply Alloy masts, booms and running rigging, including
groovy
masts.
I have to strip my sails from the masts soon when I have done that I will draw templates for you.
Please do not hesitate to ask there are many like us on this website always ready to help, it can often save time and in some instances money.
Regards ChrisG
A quick progress report, I wish, as there hasn't been any other than to bring it home to me how difficult drawing plans of a ship is. I have been drawing, cutting out and more of the same on and off this week and have just consigned the weeks work to the bin and have re-started from the beginning. I even sent for ply wood for the frames on Monday thinking I would be cutting on Wednesday, what a joke.
I have attached a photo of some of the paper and cardboard cut outs that are just not good enough.
Anyway fresh start and clear head tomorrow.
Regards ChrisG
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A quick progress report, I wish, as there hasn't been any other than to bring it home to me how difficult drawing plans of a ship is. I have been drawing, cutting out and more of the same on and off this week and have just consigned the weeks work to the bin and have re-started from the beginning. I even sent for ply wood for the frames on Monday thinking I would be cutting on Wednesday, what a joke.
I have attached a photo of some of the paper and cardboard cut outs that are just not good enough.
Anyway fresh start and clear head tomorrow.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris no one said it was easy! But well done for persevering. I have only drawn up chine hulls and that was bad enough.
Have you worked out how to estimate the displacement from the lines you have drawn.
Here is how! Dont worry about names. The block coefficient is the length x the width x the depth but only to the waterline. It is a block! For a yacht whose B.C. is about 0.55 multiply by this and you have an approximate weight.
So weigh the Inga with everything on board ready to sail and that is your target.
When you get some better lines drawn measure the area below waterline of central bulkhead plus planking depth and multiply this by the length at the waterline and then by 0.63.
A bit of arithmetic first saves a lot of time.
There are other considerations like divide the hull in 2 and try and keep the front and back total underwater volume equal. This will help the hull not to dip or rise too far when heeled over.
You should note that the fore sections should be more VEE shaped and the aft sections more U shaped. This goes for all yacht hulls including chine.
By the way I used to use a length of Baking paper to draw on and it is semi transparent so just draw one side of the bulkhead and then fold the sheet across and copy it. Remember to draw to a straight line above the deck to get the bulkheads in line, the keel follows from this.
Again good luck, for me I would pinch someone elses lines and copy up to the size required.
I learnt most of what I know from a small book called Teach Yourself Naval Architecture.
Very interesting especially when you need to know where the centre of bouyancy is! Nothing changes much and all still valid today.
🤞😂, fingers crossed and a smiley face, bit different from my last progress report.
As I suggested I was to throw my drawings in the bin and start afresh which is was what happened. My original drawings were on A3 sheets of graph paper and whilst it seemed ok the problems became apparent when doubling cut outs to check symmetry, the A3 area involved was too large to concentrate my mind and sight on what I was drawing so on the new drawings I encased them in a drawn box with dimensions which the object needed to fit in. This enabled comparable port and starboard measurements to be compared progressively and easily.
The shapes were then traced onto ply and cut out on the scroll saw. These frames were mounted onto the building board after calculating various heights above the board to determine slope of the deck and with sufficient space to access screws for removal when planked.
Lots of head scratching now, how do I proceed, no plan and difficult shapes bow and stern, especially stern. I have done lots of planking in the past but have never designed a whole model yacht.
I have traced the bow and stern section onto 12mm ply and have fitted them onto the boat frames, can be seen in the photo`s I hope.
I am currently in the process of fitting a keel to ensure all of the frames are fixed upright and at right angles to the building board and are sturdy enough to allow planking to commence, the bow will almost certainly be fully planked but I am unsure how to build and fashion the stern.
Still considering this next process.
I do hope some or most of this is understandable, regards ChrisG
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🤞😂, fingers crossed and a smiley face, bit different from my last progress report.
As I suggested I was to throw my drawings in the bin and start afresh which is was what happened. My original drawings were on A3 sheets of graph paper and whilst it seemed ok the problems became apparent when doubling cut outs to check symmetry, the A3 area involved was too large to concentrate my mind and sight on what I was drawing so on the new drawings I encased them in a drawn box with dimensions which the object needed to fit in. This enabled comparable port and starboard measurements to be compared progressively and easily.
The shapes were then traced onto ply and cut out on the scroll saw. These frames were mounted onto the building board after calculating various heights above the board to determine slope of the deck and with sufficient space to access screws for removal when planked.
Lots of head scratching now, how do I proceed, no plan and difficult shapes bow and stern, especially stern. I have done lots of planking in the past but have never designed a whole model yacht.
I have traced the bow and stern section onto 12mm ply and have fitted them onto the boat frames, can be seen in the photo`s I hope.
I am currently in the process of fitting a keel to ensure all of the frames are fixed upright and at right angles to the building board and are sturdy enough to allow planking to commence, the bow will almost certainly be fully planked but I am unsure how to build and fashion the stern.
Still considering this next process.
I do hope some or most of this is understandable, regards ChrisG
Thanks Roy
It is fun and certainly challenging. The complete hull I have in my garage that I used as my pattern weighs in at nearly 9kgs and I believe that my planked hull will support that weight easily. I am hoping to find sufficient space in the bilges to epoxy around 6kgs of lead although what form that will take I am unsure. Long way to go before I have that decision to make.
Regards ChrisG
After a few relaxing days away I am pleased to be back to resume my build. Nothing came apart while I was away and all glued and fixed parts I had done to the hull seemed ok.
I started planking and realised this one is going to be a slow build, with the planks I am using being 8mm deep and 3mm thick they are not anxious to bend so I have sent for lots more clamps to hold the lot together whilst the glue is working.
My stained glass window lead solder rods make superb rubber band anchor points, easily cut and shaped but will still find their way into the keel when the time comes.
Now I have finished with the donor Inga1v, it has been relegated to the garage where it is due to undergo a complete renovation, I think this will warrant a separate blog to reduce confusion.
Regards ChrisG
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After a few relaxing days away I am pleased to be back to resume my build. Nothing came apart while I was away and all glued and fixed parts I had done to the hull seemed ok.
I started planking and realised this one is going to be a slow build, with the planks I am using being 8mm deep and 3mm thick they are not anxious to bend so I have sent for lots more clamps to hold the lot together whilst the glue is working.
My stained glass window lead solder rods make superb rubber band anchor points, easily cut and shaped but will still find their way into the keel when the time comes.
Now I have finished with the donor Inga1v, it has been relegated to the garage where it is due to undergo a complete renovation, I think this will warrant a separate blog to reduce confusion.
Regards ChrisG
I just wish to share my good news and a coincidence, I glued the first plank to the hull of my model on the 2nd August 2023 and have glued the last hull plank today on the 2nd October 2023, and gentleman believe it or not it was not contrived.
To be honest I am rather pleased as I was getting rather bored doing the same task day in and day out which proved necessary due to the plank sizes all 62 of them each 8mm wide and 3mm thick and waiting for glue to go off.
My plan now is to sand it, fill that which needs it and probably resin the inside to waterproof it. Not sure how I will finish to outside of the hull, maybe try resin coating that as well as weight on this build needs little consideration.
I will say that it is a monster, just glad I have a large car with a big boot.
Best regards ChrisG
Sorry I think I posted this in the wrong place.
I just wish to share my good news and a coincidence, I glued the first plank to the hull of my model on the 2nd August 2023 and have glued the last hull plank today on the 2nd October 2023, and gentleman believe it or not it was not contrived.
To be honest I am rather pleased as I was getting rather bored doing the same task day in and day out which proved necessary due to the plank sizes all 62 of them each 8mm wide and 3mm thick and waiting for glue to go off.
My plan now is to sand it, fill that which needs it and probably resin the inside to waterproof it. Not sure how I will finish to outside of the hull, maybe try resin coating that as well as weight on this build needs little consideration.
I will say that it is a monster, just glad I have a large car with a big boot.
Best regards ChrisG
Hello Alessandro
The photo I have not received but no matter like you I have my favourites. On this build I will probably use spray can primer and then Humbrol which I am a fan of, with a good brush and a good surface the finish if all goes well is fabulous.
I envy you living in Italy and especially one of my favourite cities to visit, Rome I just love your country.
All the best ChrisG
Sorry ChrisG, I couldn't find the photo and then I forgot about it.
Now I will re-edit the message and insert it.
But you are right to choose your favorites, if you already have them.
I'm not an expert and I'm not good at painting but I also prefer Humbrol. Now, however, in the European community the old Humbrols, which were exceptional, are banned, only warehouse remnants can be found. The new Humbrols are not the same.
I'm glad you love Rome, I'm also a lover of Rome.
As a history enthusiast in general and Roman and medieval history in particular, I have also read a lot about the history of your great nation. It has always fascinated me.
I already visited London years ago with my wife and son but I would like to return to visit other places in the United Kingdom.
After a great deal of gnashing of teeth and cussing and swearing a friend managed to thwart Microsoft and Apple from stopping me from being able to download photos. This as a result of an obligatory so called upgrade, bless their cotton socks.
So hopefully those interested will be able to see what I have been up to in the last couple of months.
Planning the future of the build is great fun and quite complicated but is helped enormously by having the doner model to copy and measure and lots of support especially from mturpin013, who is also deeply involved in his own lovely Inga 4 model.
Thanks for the interest and support ChrisG
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After a great deal of gnashing of teeth and cussing and swearing a friend managed to thwart Microsoft and Apple from stopping me from being able to download photos. This as a result of an obligatory so called upgrade, bless their cotton socks.
So hopefully those interested will be able to see what I have been up to in the last couple of months.
Planning the future of the build is great fun and quite complicated but is helped enormously by having the doner model to copy and measure and lots of support especially from mturpin013, who is also deeply involved in his own lovely Inga 4 model.
Thanks for the interest and support ChrisG
Hello Michael and Duncan
Thanks for the kind words they are appreciated I would just like to have achieved a much better level of finish instead of having to rely on my friend P38. In the end I expect the model to look good and maybe even sail well but the "the old man" who built boats when they were works of art did it without P38 just a bit of caulking.
I am not going to beat myself up but just want my modelling friends on this great site to understand that I recognise my shortcomings.
After that confession I will really enjoy proceeding with the build.
Enjoy your evening ChrisG
Chris it's looking very good, don't knock your methods, it's the end result that's important to you, it's your model so if you like it then it's great.
Cheers Colin.
https://model-boats.com/blogs/108353
I am very lucky to have been steered by roycv into some helpful avenues which hopefully end up with me having a hull plan to work from. This is proving difficult and at this time apart from knowing the models length, beam, draft and that she has a long keel with full length ballast is all I know.
I have been told that Coribee and Vic Smeeds Petrel have similar hull shapes but both plans are for bread and butter construction which I am not interested in. I have sent for other model magazine back issues which hopefully will help.
I think this is going to be a long haul before any building starts, I have the consolation of knowing that I can occasionally look at Roys beautiful finished model and Mikes soon to be finished for encouragement.
All the best ChrisG