Hi y’all. The Tug formerly known as Harbor is now in her berth, flagged, and is now known as the O Wulf 8. She’s done!! Well..mostly. Got a couple more things to do to her, but she’s out of the shipyard, which means another project must commence. Union rules Y’know…I’m not union, but the gremlins in my garage are…
Anyway, I WAS going to start one of the kits that’s been in my hoard for a while, but I decided to build a birthday kit. She’s the Model Slipway Vosper RTTL. It was in my wishlist on Ages of Sail, my wife picked it out of a list I gave her. Woman knows my heart. Anyway, I wanted something relatively simple, although the kit does have some head scratching moments.
To start off, it’s a nice kit. Molded hull, deck and superstructure, good brass and plastic, printed plastic parts and white metal fittings. The downside is the 2mm shaft and tube, press on propeller and a rubber tube coupling. First thing I did was find a suitable tube and shaft in my stash, I like 4mm and 1/8th inch. Found an unused Dumas 1/8 tube and shaft that was just a wee bit longer, so I chose that and a 3 blades prop with a 3mm hole that I gently cleaned out to 1/8.
The kit is designed to be powered by a 6 volt Speed 400, and one was included, but I’m going brushless with this build.
First thing after cutting out the hull, deck and interior liner is to clean up and trim, then you’re supposed to build up the rudder from 2 abs halves and a metal shaft. I had a commercially made rudder that was the right shape and size, so I chose that and a 3mm ID tube. Now, the builder is supposed to make sure the liner fits, then tape it in place so one can drill the rudder tube hole thru the hull and up into the aft part of the liner. I thought I’d be able to just hold it in place. And, of course, it slipped leaving me with an elongated hole too far forward. Looking at the plans, the tube comes thru the bottom of the hull and is glued ther and at the liner. No reinforcements on the hull bottom. So, me being me, I found a nice piece of hard balsa, drilled to fit, and then slid that over the tube, and used black ca on the bottom of the hull and used epoxy to glue the tube and block inside. I made the offending hole in the liner a little bigger, and once it was glued in i made up a plate to go over the tube, the glue the plate to the tube and topside of the liner. Before I could accomplish that, I had to mod the liner to accept my choice of brushless outrunner. Plus I had to cut the slot for the stuffing box. Once I had all that done, I tacked the tube in place with ca, made sure it was lined up, the used tape on the bottoms of the hull to keep excess epoxy from running out and then glued it home.skeg was installed at this time. Then I installed the modified liner. I made up my motor mount and installed it and the motor. I tacked the mount in place with the motor installed to make darn sure the motor, shaft and coupler were a slip fit with no binding, then I bonded the mount to the hull and liner. After that I installed the deck, and the spray rails. You’re supposed to cut the strip from tha plastic sheet, but I cheated and used some strip styrene I already had.
The superstructure has been started. I’ve got the aft bulkhead, aft bulkhead outside fairing doublers, cockpit and windbreak installed. At this point I have to measure the drawing on the plans to mark the windows, then tape 2mm strips in position, glue the strips and uprights at the window locations, cut away the unglued excess strip, then cut the windows out. I’ll probably get the locations marked this week, and get the horizontal strips taped down, then wait till this weekend to finish that job.
Cash

Hi y’all got a bit more done this weekend. First thing was the bottom trim around the superstructure. This is a piece of thin plastic that goes on the bottom edge of both sides abd the front of the cabin. I had already sanded the bottom to get it ready, and as close a fit as I could to the deck. You’re supposed to cut the strips from plastic sheet, but I had some very thin flat abs sprues from another project in my scrap box. It was easier to clean them up than cut the strips, so that’s what I used.
Then the fun began. The cabin windows have frames around each one. The windows are not marked on the cabin molding. You’re SUPPOSED to mark their locations using the plans, tape a long strip top and bottom, glue in the uprights and then the upper and lower portions then cut away what’s not needed while simultaneously not glueing the scrap in place too. Nope.
I put the plans over a small piece of ceiling tile, covered in wax paper the built that assembly over the plans, then covered that with wax paper and built a twin over the first assembly. Same way I built rubber powered free flight fuselages a very long time ago. Once built I used 6mm masking tape to mark my boundaries, tacked the assembly in place, then cut away the excess and glued it all down. I had to build the forward windows in situ. I then cut out the window area and sanded.
Last thing I did was the forward cabin reinforcement strips. I think it looks like a grille from a 30s Cord, but that’s what it says to do.
I have a bit more to do to the cabin, then it’s paint and details.
Cash

Hi y’all. It’s been a bit since my last update, had some things go south and had to work a Saturday for one of my coworkers, and my old IPad is getting where the battery is about done. I’ve had it since 2017 or so, so it’s showing it’s age. Anyway, it’s working for the moment, so I’ll do a quick update.
The next step I had to accomplish was to cut out the small aft cabin at the stern, and build up the hatch just fwd of it. According to the instructions, you’re supposed to build up the hatch and the aft cabin in situ, on the boat, and then both parts are connected together to seal both access openings aft of the cabin. I looked this over for quite a bit, and I’ve determined that it’s just not happening. I can access the rudder linkage from the larger forward opening, and having 2 aft hatches is asking for twice the leaks. So, once I’m satisfied with all fitment, and once most of the painting is done, the fat cabin will be painted, glazed and glued in place permanently. This will make it easier to seal the boat up. She’s got a lot of freeboard, so I don’t anticipate any problems, but ya never know.
So, the first thing I had to do was to cut out the window openings. There’s no markings on the part, so you have to measure and transcribe the drawing from the plan to the cabin, and cut the windows in. Then you glue the upper part to the lower cockpit, and trim the aft opening to fit.
Once that was done I built up the hatch. I added some vertical lower spacers to get it lined up where I wanted it, the since I was shooting from the hip I used a cut down Lego and plastic to make a fwd retaining lip. After a few runs I’ll semi-permanently attach the fwd hatch so I can access the rudder servo if need be with a little work.
There are moldings that go on the roof. You’re supposed to cut very thin strips of plastic, but I decided to use thin brass instead, I think it’ll look much better especially when it’s painted.
Next up is the mast, a few small parts to fabricate , then primer.
Cash

Hi y’all. Been a busy week so I didn’t get a lot done, but the mast is built. I used a slightly thinner tube than what was provided in the kit as I think it looks a little closer to scale. Nothing earth shattering, just cut parts, jig it up, assemble and glue. I have a few more pieces of plastic to cut, and then it’s fittings, primer, paint and final assembly.
Cash

Hi y’all. Got the Vosper painted, the mast installed and a few fittings up, the rest are primered waiting on paint. Speaking of paint, this boat may raise a few eyebrows. Most of the RTTL models I’ve seen have had a wood colored deck. However, I’ve read in some forums that some of the boats had a gray canvas over the deck. Then, I found a pic of a Deans Marine RTTL on their website that had a blue deck. And, to make matters even more complicated the manual for this boat states that the deck is gray, but the box art shows a tan deck…
So. I’m out of my rattle can Taniya tan I use for simulated wood. I’m also out of my light ghost gray I often use. Sooooo….i decided to use the same light blue I used for my Flower Class Corvette “Dicky” for the deck, and the subdued insignia white for anything white, and a darker gray for superstructure. Anybody calls me on it I’ll make up a story that sounds realistic😂
Anyway, she’s painted, ships boat is installed, companionway is done, ladders installed and mast installed. I used thin brass wire glued into the masts legs and drilled the roof to fit, it’s less likely to be knocked off that way.
Next up-painting and installing very small fittings..

Hi y’all. Got some more fittings done this week. I also found out that I am dreadful with hand painting details that are glued to an already painted surface. Tried to paint the window frames but could not get them to my liking, so I sanded and repainted gray. I might have another go before I install the windows, but for now they’re gray. There’s one fitting forward of the open cockpit that I had to modify a bit. You’re supposed to bend a piece of 1mm wire as a support. No mention of how it goes on, do I drill holes, etc. So I decided to drill for the main fitting, then took a dremel to notch the fitting for the wire support, and glued it together with thick CA. The fitting is installed into the hole I drilled until the support legs touch the cabin. After making sure all is straight and true the fitting was glued in place, small dots of glue secure the support. At least it won’t get knocked off by accident very easily.
Next up is the rest of the fittings, decals, and final radio install.
Cash

Hi y’all. I got the davits and railings made up and installed last weekend and radio gear installed also. Nothing too mind bending, but I had to make a change to the Davit fitment. The original installation was to mark the spot the davit is supposed to be installed at, drill a hole for the locating pin, and basically butt glue it to the deck. That’s it. Only thing keeping the davits secure is a white metal pin and a layer of glue. I’m telling y’all right now I’m am NOT a graceful man by any means, I trip over patterns in linoleum. The first thing I would break handling this boat would be the davits, so I made a command decision. The davits have a “T” cross section. I cut from the drilled holes with a fairly sharp xacto blade and cut a t shape in the hull, testing to make sure I had a decent friction fit. I installed the davits, making sure they were square and straight, glued in place the went under deck and reinforced the installation with a little more ca. They’re pretty solid now.
I also made up, painted and installed the rails, just pieces of 1mm bent wire.
The radio install was a little tricky as I have a very short pushrod, but it turned out well, the esc and receiver are mounted under deck and wiring tucked in and away from the motor.
I have to say that for a supposedly entry level scale model this thing has challenged me, and not in a good way. I think I assumed it would be an easy build, like a Robbe Dolly or some such, but it wasn’t. But, she’s almost ready for a maiden, need glazing, decals and some touch up and float test.
Cash