Hi
Please remember that this is only about my Lady “T”.
I don’t seem to remember if I have started this story before, so here goes.
This story is just my ramblings of how I built the Mobile Marine Lady “T”.
In the first place, I was at the Blackpool show some time back in the mid-90s, and on the MMM stand was a steam tug that I thought was the Perseverance (hull in my loft). As it happened, it was the Lady “T”, so I asked Brian if I could buy her. The answer was NO, so over the years, I kept onto Brian to start her as one of his semi kits. In the end, he did that, and my Lady “T” is the first out of the Molde dated 04/06/1998 .
Over the years, I would look at the hull and put it back onto the shelf. It was not until I retired that I started to think it was time to start. I have had a love/hate relationship with this model, so in-between starting and where I am today, I did build four other boats.
The first thing I did was to read the article by Barry (barryfoote) on Model Boat Mayhem dated Dec 2007. I also emailed him, and he was very helpful with photos and advice.

The first thing I did was order the Template and Full fitting packs. The template pack was 14 A3 sheets and the fitting pack had 200 white metal items, when they arrived, I started with the rudder. This is made up of some brass rod and plywood. The shape is taken from the template sheet. I think that now you can get the rudder ready-made.
Photo 1 is one of my early ones, photo 2 is the end result.
I then moved on to making the rudder post. Now, this is where I started to go wrong. I used the templates for the Sterntube clamp, when I tried to fix it to the hull I found out that it was too big (photo 3). My second wrong doing was to use Milliput to fix it to the hull. It just broke away the first time I knock the rudder. In the end I used it as a base and I fixed it into the hull with P40. I still had to cut it back to allow it to sit under the deck (photo 4).

I now turned my attention to fixing the two prop shafts along with the A frames. I did try using the templates, again that did not work out as the shafts on the plan look parallel to the hull. I ended up fixing the motos (I used the T4 from MMM) and shafts to the bottom of the hull. Again I fixed the shafts with P40 . I used the couplings from MMM to connect the motor to the shaft.
With regards to the “A” frame I took there position from the markings that are on the hull,

Hi One & All
Having sorted out the deck beams, motors, rudder, and rudder servo (photo1), I now turned my attention to the electrical components. Since most of my boats have a tangled mess of wiring, I decided it was time to clean it up once and for all. I purchased a Distribution Board, a rudder mixer from Action Electronic, two 10/60 ESCs from Sussex Models, a voltage regulator and remote control electronic switch from AliExpress, oil smoke unit from a 1/16 tank I had in the spares box. If I have room I may see if I can fit a water based smoke unit from Model Boat Bits All these components will be installed in place when the wheelhouse is built, allowing me to determine the optimal locations for each.

hi One & All
Moving on, the three parts that make up the deck have now been fixed into the hull. I used Gorilla Contact glue to do this.
I have also been working on the wheelhouse. In the guide lines, it said that the base was to be fixed to the deck with screws. This is where I went my own way. I fixed my base to a white board. I then started fixing all the wheelhouse frames to the base. In the guide lines, I should have used 3/16 x 1/16 stringers. I used 6 x 6mm. My reasoning for doing this is that the wheelhouse will be removed when I need to switch her on/off, replace any smoke fluid.
Over the next week I am hoping that I will have the wheelhouse build unto the first deck level.

Hi One & All
For once I decided to do the electrics tidy and not a rat nest, so going from the right to the left we have : Power board - two 10/60 ESC - in the middle of the 10/60s is the 1/16 tank smoke unit - the top item is the voltage reducer this take the 6 volt down to 3 volt this is so that I can run the LED’s - bottom item is the rudder mixer then the R/X

Fred