# Building Log: ARTUR — A Norwegian Fishing Boat by Nauticurso (1:32 Scale)

## Introduction

Welcome to my new building log!

This project came about when Model Expo commissioned me to build and document *ARTUR*, a model kit they are now offering to the modeling community. I'm excited to share the experience with you, including the construction process, the modifications I make along the way, and some of the challenges that come with bringing this interesting fishing vessel to life.

### A Little About ARTUR

The name of this kit is *ARTUR*, a traditional Norwegian fishing boat reproduced as a model by Nauticurso, a Brazilian model-making company.

While researching the vessel, I became fascinated by its history and by the similarities between working fishing boats used in different parts of the world. My understanding is that vessels of this general type have been popular among Brazilian fishermen, with similar working boats also found in other countries. I would particularly welcome more information from anyone familiar with the history of these boats, including their possible wartime service during World War II.
The Kit and Its Construction

The Nauticurso ARTUR kit has undergone several improvements over the years.
The kit I'm building is from Model Expo *first version*, so after examining the parts and doing my research, I decided to replace certain components and fabricate others myself.
This will give me an opportunity to make some personal improvements while remaining faithful to the character of the original vessel.

The kit includes the running hardware needed to build ARTUR for full radio-control operation.
The instruction manual has been carefully translated into English by Model Shipways Inc. and contains numerous photographs illustrating the assembly process step by step.

The wooden components are laser-cut from Amazonian wood, providing the basic materials for this interesting project.

Model Specifications

- *Kit:* ARTUR
- *Manufacturer:* Nauticurso, Brazil
- *Scale:* 1:32
- *Length:* Approximately 22 inches
- *Power:* Designed for radio-control operation
- *Construction:* Laser-cut wooden components

ARTUR should provide plenty of enjoyable and challenging moments for both newcomers and experienced model boat builders. As with many wooden kits, the real satisfaction comes from the construction itself, the details we add, and the opportunity to make the model our own.

Let's Discover More About ARTUR

I'm including an old photograph of the real vessel. One detail that caught my attention is the way the lifeboats are carried on the deck above the wheelhouse. Details like this are particularly interesting when comparing the full-size vessel with the model.

I hope you enjoy following this build. And if any of you have information about ARTUR, its origins, the real vessel, or similar fishing boats, please share it with us. I would be delighted to learn from your knowledge and experience.

So, let's get started and see what we can accomplish with this Nauticurso kit!

## Part 1 — Setting Up the Keel and Frames

One of the nice features of the Nauticurso ARTUR kit is the *building board supplied with the kit*. This simple but very useful fixture helps keep the keel properly positioned while the frames are fitted and glued into place.

The first step is to identify the keel and the numbered frames, making sure each piece is correctly oriented before assembly. The frames fit into their corresponding positions along the keel, forming the basic structure that will eventually determine the shape of the hull.

The building board makes this stage much easier by helping hold the components in alignment while the glue sets. Accuracy is particularly important here: if the frames are not square to the keel or are incorrectly positioned, the resulting errors can affect the shape of the hull and make the subsequent planking more difficult.

In the photographs, you can see how the keel and frames are positioned in the building board and how the individual components fit together. It is a straightforward arrangement, but a very helpful feature for anyone building a wooden model boat.

Note: The photographs in this section are reproduced from the kit instructions to illustrate the assembly process. Unfortunately, I no longer have my original photographs of these early stages of construction.

## Part 2 — Building the Stern and My First Mistake

As construction progressed, I began fitting the vertical strips that form the curved stern of ARTUR. These strips follow the shape of the stern and provide the foundation for the planking in this area.

Unfortunately, this is where I made my first mistake!

The vertical strips were supposed to *extend beyond the four bulkheads* so that their outer edges would meet the hull planking correctly. Instead, I installed them flush with the bulkheads, leaving insufficient projection for the planking to meet them as intended.

As you can see in the photographs, the strips follow the curve of the stern, but they do not extend far enough beyond the bulkheads.

Fortunately, this was not a major setback. Since the hull would eventually be painted, I knew I would have an opportunity to correct the shape and fill any imperfections later in the build. When I began planking the hull, I was able to address the problem and bring the stern into the proper shape.

This was a useful lesson: *always double-check how the planking is supposed to meet the framework before gluing the surrounding strips permanently in place.* A small mistake at this stage can create extra work later, but it doesn't necessarily mean starting over.

The good news is that the problem was manageable, and construction continued!

The hull was sealed inside with epoxy resin, then I used Poly-Fiber Super
Fil to fill imperfections on the outside. It dries quickly and sands beautifully, leaving a smooth, slick finish ready for painting.

Once I was happy with the hull shape, I built a cradle to hold the boat while I worked on it. Later, I made a nicer base for the finished model.

For the wood, I used Zinsser Amber Shellac, diluted 50/50 with denatured alcohol. It was my first time using this product, and I was very pleased with the results.

The first coat dries in about 20 minutes, but it raises the wood grain a bit, so I gave it a light sanding with 300-grit sandpaper before applying the second coat.

Two coats gave me the color I wanted, but you can add more if you prefer a darker finish. I'll show you the final sealer I used later on.

Constructing the Pilothouse

Here’s the progress on the pilothouse.

The kit has the wallboards laser-marked, so I used those as a guide and continued the same plank markings onto the other structures with a pencil to keep everything consistent.

The doors are laser-cut, and the kit allows you to install them in the open position, but I decided to leave mine closed. I covered all the corner joints with thin wood strips and added reinforcement along the top of the walls to provide a stronger, more secure base for the roof.

The front window section consists of five individual window openings. I cut the openings into a separate panel, leaving the narrow strips of wood between them to form the window frames. Once the panel was prepared, I fitted it to the curved front wall of the pilothouse.

Getting that curve right took a little work. I scored the back of the front cabin wall and dampened the wood with water to make it easier to bend. I then left it in position overnight so it could take the required shape without putting too much stress on the plywood.

So far, everything is coming together nicely. More to follow!

ARTUR – Shaping the Front Window Wall and Assembling the Pilot’s Console

With the front window wall now bent into its proper shape, I’m moving on to the next stage of the wheelhouse construction. Achieving the correct curvature is important, as this section will determine the alignment and overall appearance of the front windows.

Before continuing with the remaining structure, I assembled the pilot’s control console. This component serves a dual purpose: it will become an important interior detail while also helping support and hold the curved front window wall in its correct position.

As shown in the photographs, the console features raised sections at both ends and a recessed central section. I test-fitted the assembly inside the wheelhouse to check its alignment with the surrounding walls and the curved front section.

My approach is to make sure all the components fit properly before permanently securing them. By incorporating the console into the internal structure at this stage, I hope to achieve a stronger, more accurately aligned wheelhouse while keeping the interior details true to the model’s design.

The wheelhouse is gradually coming together, one carefully fitted component at a time. More updates to follow!

The Lower Cabin: Continuing the Plank Detail

Here we have the lower cabin taking shape. As I did with the pilot house, I used a pencil to mark the individual boards on the exterior walls. The laser-cut lines already indicate where the doors, window frames, and rails will eventually be fitted, after the painting stage.

Of course, I could have left these walls smooth and simply painted them a solid color, as many modelers choose to do. That would have been perfectly acceptable, but I prefer to carry the same plank pattern throughout the entire vessel.
To me, this adds continuity and character, making the different sections of the cabin look as though they belong to the same working boat.

The laser-etched details are especially helpful because they preserve the positions of the doors, frames, and rails while I work on the finish. Once the painting and trim are completed, these details should stand out nicely and give the cabin a more convincing, weathered working-boat appearance.

It takes a little extra time, but I believe these small details make a real difference in the finished model. As the build progresses, you’ll see how this same approach continues throughout Artur.

Hull Reinforcement for the Rudder Bracket

After setting the cabin structures aside for the moment, I returned to the hull and gave it a coat of primer. Before moving on, I decided to reinforce the area where the lower rudder bracket will be mounted.

Although the kit’s plywood keel provides the basic structure, I wasn’t entirely confident that the relatively thin plywood alone would provide enough strength to support the bracket securely.
Rather than take any chances, I added two small pieces of cherry wood to the area. This should provide a much stronger foundation for mounting the bracket and help prevent the plywood from weakening under the stress of the rudder.

It’s one of those small modifications that may not be particularly noticeable when the model is finished, but I believe it’s worth the extra effort to make sure everything is solid and secure before proceeding with the next stages of the build.

The Deck — My Biggest Mistake!

This was probably my biggest mistake in the entire build: *the deck!*

I never bothered to dry-fit it before proceeding, just to make sure the outer edges of the frames would line up properly with the deck. Unfortunately, when I finally checked, I discovered that the frames were too wide. As a result, I had to add extra pieces of wood to fill the gaps. I'll show you how I dealt with that problem later in the blog.

Despite this setback, I continued working on the deck's appearance. I darkened the individual plank lines to give them more definition, then painstakingly marked more than *400 deck treenails* with a pencil. Finally, I gave the deck a slightly darker shellac finish than the rest of the wooden surfaces.

It's one of those lessons we learn the hard way in model building: Always dry-fit the parts before committing to the next step!