WTC/Sub Driver.

Started by Martin555

21 updates 77 likes 68 comments
Martin555 Opening post

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
I know that this site is mainly for model boats but I have been reliably informed that there are a few submariners on here, so this is a log on my build of the WTC and on a very tight budget.
I made this WTC using odds and ends and materials that I have to hand. I have never made one of these before so it is going to be a challenge.
Please feel free to comment on this project (good or bad).
I have been scratching my head, and done a lot of thinking about this and how to tackle it.
It is going to be one of those things that will probably change as I go along.
So a lot of juggling and cursing will be required to try and get everything in to the Tube.
So here we go.
I have started by trying to get the two motors in leaving enough room so that I can run the servo control push rods across the top of them.
I have made the motor mount from layers 1mm plastic card ( only because I have nothing else to make it from) but it seems to be strong enough and does not look to bad. I will decide if I will paint it all at a later date.
I have test fitted it in the tube as you can see in the photos.
I will now go and think about the next bit.
The photos are out of sequence but you will get the idea.
Martin.
Liked by isabuncu and Mataroa and
9 comments
  1. Martin555
    Fleet Admiral
    Hi Doug,
    I have been thinking about how you could operate it if you don't have a spare channel and I have come up with some options.

    Option A
    somehow attach two micro switches or tactile switches to the dive planes servo arm.
    Option B
    Y join a micro servo to the dive plane servo and attach said switches.
    Option C
    Add a collet to the dive planes push rod to activate the said switches.

    The idea being that when you slightly tilt the dive planes to dive the pump will start filling the tank.
    When dive planes are tilted to surface then the pump will start emptying.
    In the neutral position the pump will be off, even if there is water in the tank or not.
    when you ballast the sub in submerged trim keep it with slight positive buoyancy as the ballast water will leak back through the pump unless a valve is fitted to prevent this.
    I suppose you could call it a safety device!

    Martin.
    Liked by RNinMunich

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
After a lot of tinkering I have found that the easiest way to do this is to make individual modules and glue them together, As each component has different dimensions it is a bit tricky to get the clearance inside the tube.
A lot of forward planning is now required, so a lot of head scratching is going on.
So I have made the servo tray in the same way as before using layers of the 1 mm plastic card.
I will see if I have to straighten it all later.
It is proving to be a bit trickier than I first thought but I will persevere.
I have some speed controllers somewhere out in the shed I just have to find them. So until I find them I will tinker with some other bits.
As each module is made I make sure that I test fitt it in the tube.

Martin.
Liked by isabuncu and Mataroa and

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
Made the Receiver/ESC module and glued it in place, attached the Receiver and will fit the ESC’s later as I have a bit of tinkering to do to one of the servos I need to reverse it as it is pulling instead of pushing.
The photos are of it test fitted in the tube.
Still a long way to go but it has certainly given me something to think about, it is quite a challenge but I am enjoying it, and I have not done to much swearing !! Yet.
I have drilled more holes in the hope of improving air circulation in the tube.

Martin.
Liked by Mataroa and Colin H and

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Today I was lucky enough to spend most of the day in my little work shop, so with the only bits of brass tubing I had I decided to make the rear end cap through tubes for the servo push rods and the prop shafts,
To make the ends of the tubes I had some old brass ship cannons that I cut and drilled.
I am using bike spokes for the push rods.
Liked by Colin H and Mataroa and
2 comments
  1. RNinMunichBronze
    Fleet Admiral
    Good stuff Martin 👍
    How are you dealing with sealing the prop shafts and rudder push rods?
    In my U25 the prop shafts had rubber 'concertina' boots.
    Rudder control is via a Bowden cable with another rubber boot where it exits the pressure hull.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    Liked by Martin555
  2. Martin555
    Fleet Admiral
    Hi Doug,
    For the push rod's I have rubber bellows,and the prop shafts will just by packed full of grease.

    I think that because this is a mainly module related build I will push this log through as members will probably get bored of it!
    Liked by Colin H

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
One more small step completed.
I struggled with this end cap as I do not own a pillar drill so trying to drill it and get it straight and level was a real pain. (See drilling tip in Hints and Tips thread)
I made some small servo push rod’s and taped them in the appropriate position then placed the assembly in to the tube. I then put a small blob of paint on the ends of the motor shafts and push rod’s, placed the end cap in the end of the tube and pushed it up against the assembly.
When I carefully removed the end cap the paint marked the position’s ready for drilling.
After a bit of tinkering I inserted the through tubes and sealed outside and inside with silicon sealant.
The valve in the middle of the end cap Is from a tubeless mountain bike tyre.
Liked by Mataroa and Colin H and
6 comments
  1. Martin555
    Fleet Admiral
    Thanks,
    But I am a beginner at this weathering thing.
    It is not as easy as I thought it would be.
    I still have more to do but I am sure that with more practice I should get better at it.

    Martin.

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys
The Boss (the wife) went out today so I managed to get some work done to the WTC.
I fitted the two ESC’s and made all of the electrical connections.
I then temporarily fitted the end cap just to see if everything fitted correctly.
Tested it all again, All seems to be working as it should.
Installed the assembly into the tube and fitted the end cap and it all fitted quite nicely.(better than I expected)
The red tubing is where I have run the receiver aerial cable.
The rubber O rings and Rubber bellows will be fitted at final assembly.
As you can see it is coming along quite nicely.
Liked by jbkiwi and Mataroa and

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
Well curiosity got the better of me so I decided to try the WTC in my Gato.
I then discovered that the two motor shaft tubes that go through the end cap were to long.
So I would be unable to fit the shaft couplings.
So back to the bench to carry out the modifications.
Now I just about have enough room to fit them.

Martin.
Liked by isabuncu and Mataroa and
2 comments

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
Started working on the forward end of the WTC.
I constructed the servo/battery module but I forgot to take photos of the individual parts.
It is made in the same way as the other modules using the plastic card.
The overlapping part will be cut off later when I get every thing fitted in place.
When I get to finally putting it all together the plan is glue a thin piece of rubber to one end of the forward and aft sections of the modules so that
it has a slight compression between the end caps so that it dose not move about in the tube.

Martin.
Liked by Mataroa and MouldBuilder and

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WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys,
I spent a couple of hours in the workshop and made the forward/reverse switch module for the water pump.
I have included a diagram as it might help fellow members.

Martin.
Liked by isabuncu and jbkiwi and

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