Can't resist starting another build as my sailing barge is on hold pending a break in the cold rainy weather so I can do some painting of the hull and deck. In addition, staying home to avoid potential virus contact.
The video on this site of the boat Juno inspired me, I really liked the boat and the mention of using scape material as much as possible. I found a plan of a Trent Barge and decided to shorten it to make a small river barge. I have been looking for a simple flat bottomed boat for a quick build. My experience building my springer type rescue tug was enjoyable because it was a quick, easy build, so I thought I'd give a river barge a try.
Photos show progress after just one day, about 5 hours. Used 1/8" baltic birch sides and 1/4" baltic birch bottom with Titebong III wood glue. I think the profile worked out well as I always like to pay particular attention to the sheer. More tomorrow.
Joe 🤔
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Can't resist starting another build as my sailing barge is on hold pending a break in the cold rainy weather so I can do some painting of the hull and deck. In addition, staying home to avoid potential virus contact.
The video on this site of the boat Juno inspired me, I really liked the boat and the mention of using scape material as much as possible. I found a plan of a Trent Barge and decided to shorten it to make a small river barge. I have been looking for a simple flat bottomed boat for a quick build. My experience building my springer type rescue tug was enjoyable because it was a quick, easy build, so I thought I'd give a river barge a try.
Photos show progress after just one day, about 5 hours. Used 1/8" baltic birch sides and 1/4" baltic birch bottom with Titebong III wood glue. I think the profile worked out well as I always like to pay particular attention to the sheer. More tomorrow.
Joe 🤔
I purchased the 540 motor and gearbox about 15 years ago at a hobby shop that closed years ago. The motor is the type used in rc cars and trucks and can be found on ebay and on on-line hobby stores. 540 refers to the size of the motor. The gearbox was a type sold for use in early electric airplanes. Unfortunately it was discontinued even at the time I bought it.
I have been trying to find a suitable alternative gear box, but no luck so far. Will post once I find something.
Joe
Brass vertical tube for rudder mount installed. Wood braces use wood glue, the brass tube is epoxyed in place. Same for stuffing tube. I use a 3/16" rod which I cut and thread for 10/24 to use with brass 3 blade props which I had on hand.
I built the stuffing tube without the typical vertical fill tube. I use white lithium grease to fill the stuffing tube, on my other boats I have found that for routine maintenance I typically remove the shaft and use a hypo type plunger to fill with grease. So I don't use the fill tube...any comments, will I regret this decision?
Joe 🤔
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Brass vertical tube for rudder mount installed. Wood braces use wood glue, the brass tube is epoxyed in place. Same for stuffing tube. I use a 3/16" rod which I cut and thread for 10/24 to use with brass 3 blade props which I had on hand.
I built the stuffing tube without the typical vertical fill tube. I use white lithium grease to fill the stuffing tube, on my other boats I have found that for routine maintenance I typically remove the shaft and use a hypo type plunger to fill with grease. So I don't use the fill tube...any comments, will I regret this decision?
Joe 🤔
Sub-decking installed at stern and bow, 1/8" ply, very stiff. Hatch opening for access to rudder stem and servo built.
Found my two Smokers that I built as an experiment a year ago (see my build log on smoker last year). Since simple builds never really stay simple, let's add a smoker!
The newly built rear hatch is now redesigned, cut new deck opening and mounted smoker. Engine enclosure sides were mocked up with cardboard prior to cutting in plywood. Sides glued in place.
Decided to do the pilot house in styrene as it is easier to do windows and detail. I do a rough pencil layout on graph paper of the basic sizes, then tape it to a printable surface. Wax paper next and as I cut each piece they are pinned in place and glued with styrene liquid cement. Pieces are carefully aligned to keep everything square. The four pilot house sides are shown. Let dry, cure over night. I add detail as I go from my styrene stash. More detail will come once it is assembled and roof added. This will be designed as a lift-off item to access the smoker and rudder access.
Back to the shop now, stay safe everyone.
Joe😀
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Deck, hatch, pilot house in styrene, yes a smoker...
Sub-decking installed at stern and bow, 1/8" ply, very stiff. Hatch opening for access to rudder stem and servo built.
Found my two Smokers that I built as an experiment a year ago (see my build log on smoker last year). Since simple builds never really stay simple, let's add a smoker!
The newly built rear hatch is now redesigned, cut new deck opening and mounted smoker. Engine enclosure sides were mocked up with cardboard prior to cutting in plywood. Sides glued in place.
Decided to do the pilot house in styrene as it is easier to do windows and detail. I do a rough pencil layout on graph paper of the basic sizes, then tape it to a printable surface. Wax paper next and as I cut each piece they are pinned in place and glued with styrene liquid cement. Pieces are carefully aligned to keep everything square. The four pilot house sides are shown. Let dry, cure over night. I add detail as I go from my styrene stash. More detail will come once it is assembled and roof added. This will be designed as a lift-off item to access the smoker and rudder access.
Pilot house sides are now glued together, roof was added, it is all styrene construction. Primed and ready for paint and window glazing.
Mocked up on top of engine house. I have decided to offset the smoke stack to more closely align with my homemade smoker below.
Smokestack - For the stack I am using a very light weight plastic tube that was a candy container. It is 1" diameter shown with the candy label removed in next shot. I primed it in gray and decided to add some very thin styrene bands for detail, seen as white in photo. This will be primed again and paired in some color, probably black.
Mast - Next I took a 5/8" dia. birch dowel scrap about 23" long and using some of my old hand planes shaved it to a tapered mast. Had to photograph the shavings, this process is pretty quick and tool about 20 minutes. Hard to see the taper, best seen in the vertical shot.
More to come, this build has been very helpful during our "shelter in place" mode in California. I've been in isolation for two weeks now and focusing on accepting and not being so stressed by uncertainty. Building things with my hands has been my savior over the years as it is like meditation to me. Help me beat stage 4 cancer recently, keeps my mind focused and intact. Hope you are all doing well and I thank you for this opportunity at social contact.
Cheers, Joe 👍
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Pilot house sides are now glued together, roof was added, it is all styrene construction. Primed and ready for paint and window glazing.
Mocked up on top of engine house. I have decided to offset the smoke stack to more closely align with my homemade smoker below.
Smokestack - For the stack I am using a very light weight plastic tube that was a candy container. It is 1" diameter shown with the candy label removed in next shot. I primed it in gray and decided to add some very thin styrene bands for detail, seen as white in photo. This will be primed again and paired in some color, probably black.
Mast - Next I took a 5/8" dia. birch dowel scrap about 23" long and using some of my old hand planes shaved it to a tapered mast. Had to photograph the shavings, this process is pretty quick and tool about 20 minutes. Hard to see the taper, best seen in the vertical shot.
More to come, this build has been very helpful during our "shelter in place" mode in California. I've been in isolation for two weeks now and focusing on accepting and not being so stressed by uncertainty. Building things with my hands has been my savior over the years as it is like meditation to me. Help me beat stage 4 cancer recently, keeps my mind focused and intact. Hope you are all doing well and I thank you for this opportunity at social contact.
Cheers, Joe 👍
Great, that works perfectly Joe👍
I'll read through it in detail later today when I'm more awake!
Now past 0240 here so I'm going off watch😴💤
Vice Admiral Ed (Figtree) out of Connecticut HQ now has operational command of our US units. Designated 2 IC is Sub Lt,. Cash of the North Texas Detachment, Red River Patrol Squadron, DFW.
Re emptying the paste can; I presume the same way the kids here empty eggs to paint them at Easter; make a hole at each end and blow like hell!!😮
I like the tin can idea. Reminds me of a miniature 'Old Smokey' Grill and Smoker😋😋
Cheers, Doug 😎
Mturpin,
Thanks for the comments. I do like to find bits and pieces to use on builds, makes it more fun than buying.
My builds are more towards the type that are geared toward sailing rather than the great detail that I see on many of the members boats. After a basic rough out of the hull design I just kind of go wherever I want to each day. Makes it more interesting not quite knowing where it will end up.
Joe
Keep forgetting to take photos, here's some recent work. The hull and decks have now been coated with fiberglass resin. I use "West System" Epoxy Resin 105 and Slow Hardener 206. This is what I have been building 1Meter Racing Yachts out of for years, along with either fiberglass or carbon fiber mat. Since this hull is pretty stout, no need for the fiberglass mat, just use the resin coating for waterproofing purposes.
While that resin cures for a day or so, I move on to making some parts and doing some painting. Shown are some bollards, a hatch and my power switch housing all made from bits of scrap material. Rudder was made and resin coated as well.
Painted the pilot house, smoke stack and engine house roof/deck. All painting is brushed and is acrylic paint using flo-trol additive. Numerous thin coats provide for a nice finish.
Keep up those build logs, they all look great!
JOE 👍
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Keep forgetting to take photos, here's some recent work. The hull and decks have now been coated with fiberglass resin. I use "West System" Epoxy Resin 105 and Slow Hardener 206. This is what I have been building 1Meter Racing Yachts out of for years, along with either fiberglass or carbon fiber mat. Since this hull is pretty stout, no need for the fiberglass mat, just use the resin coating for waterproofing purposes.
While that resin cures for a day or so, I move on to making some parts and doing some painting. Shown are some bollards, a hatch and my power switch housing all made from bits of scrap material. Rudder was made and resin coated as well.
Painted the pilot house, smoke stack and engine house roof/deck. All painting is brushed and is acrylic paint using flo-trol additive. Numerous thin coats provide for a nice finish.
Keep up those build logs, they all look great!
JOE 👍
Peter,
Thank you for the comments, I appreciate it. Regarding scratch building, I do it for several reasons, one, is that my dad taught me back in the 50's to build just about anything. Second, is that I am frugal, very careful with money as I am retired. But I really enjoy it. You will see that I do not build historically accurate or highly detailed boats like many of this sites builders do. I am more focused and the fun of building and making sure it works from an engineering standpoint. I design the basic hull and play as I go. Sailboats are a particular challenge as they must be carefully designed to work. My mentor taught me about 15 years ago when he was 86! 👍
So when you do try it remember to have fun and experiment.
Joe 😎
As usual, I have been working on several projects at once so I forget to take progress photos and post. Deck was completed with 3mm baltic birch plywood, I really like working with the better grade of plywood. Cleaner cuts, nicer to finish. Main hatch is in now, motor and gear box fitted and aligned. Painting of hull and deck in-progress, needs some additional detail, possibly some stripping. Would like to get some automotive pinstripping but don't want to go out right now. Thinking about an alternative, maybe just breakdown and hand paint it.
Mast and boom getting some fittings.
A few stragglers have somehow slipped aboard when wasn't looking, one of the hazards of the boatyard location.
Joe 😁
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As usual, I have been working on several projects at once so I forget to take progress photos and post. Deck was completed with 3mm baltic birch plywood, I really like working with the better grade of plywood. Cleaner cuts, nicer to finish. Main hatch is in now, motor and gear box fitted and aligned. Painting of hull and deck in-progress, needs some additional detail, possibly some stripping. Would like to get some automotive pinstripping but don't want to go out right now. Thinking about an alternative, maybe just breakdown and hand paint it.
Mast and boom getting some fittings.
A few stragglers have somehow slipped aboard when wasn't looking, one of the hazards of the boatyard location.
Joe 😁
"Ed,
Thanks for the comments, I would invite you over for some baby back pork ribs but we must maintain the 6,000 mile social distancing between our locations."
Er .. dat wuz lil ol' me Joe😉
Think Ed is bit closer to you. Shucks, would have enjoyed the ribs😋
Thanks for the Floetrol info, I'll look into that as I have a lot of Lifecolor acrylic Naval colours.
Cheers, Doug 😎
I have been trying to find a suitable alternative gear box, but no luck so far. Will post once I find something.
Joe