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    14

















    Followers
    Dumas Higgins PT boat
    by Cashrc ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ ( Commander)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    15 Posts 48 Comments 0 Photos 103 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ One problem down one to go
    11 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi!! So...this morning I took the PT to my local test pond, conveniently located on our Churchโ€™s property. I looks as if I have the ballast about right, although with a 7 cell pack she rides a bit too bow high, but perfect on a 6 cell. Turns sharply to port, not quite so much to starboard, you have to be a little more careful with rudder and power than to port...but, quite acceptable๐Ÿ˜€ However, I could only do tests close in for a short period of time as I lost all range about 70 feet from the bank...and to make matters worse, the wind took her under the fountain ๐Ÿ˜ฑ. She stayed dry enough for me to walk around the pond and picker back up in range and โ€œwalkโ€ her back. I decided I had enough, upon inspection the receiver was relatively dry in spit if the fountain bath. I concluded that I was just going to try another receiver, as I uninstalled the rx I tugged on the antenna slightly and it came right out!! Iโ€™ve concluded that I had a sketchy intermittent signal the whole time. The receiver in question is a FlySky GR3C bound to a Radiomaster 16S multi-protocol transmitter. Iโ€™ve had no problems with another of these receivers mounted in my PBR. Anyway, I have other receivers to use, but I found a waterproof version of the same receiver for 14.00 shipped from Amazon, so thatโ€™s whatโ€™s going back in the PT. I will get that installed and do a proper range check and another pond test, once Iโ€™m satisfied with the range I can finalize my trim, but in spite of all the drama Saturday I fell that I have made progress in that regard. Iโ€™ll update as soon as I can.
    Thanks for all the help and comments, especially concerning PT boats turning radius both full size and scale. Itโ€™s been a big help๐Ÿ‘
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Well Cash you have been a busy boy.
    Your boat looks fantastic, and I really like the paint job.
    Despite having a few problems that i am sure you will sort out I think you will enjoy wizzing her around the pond.

    Now the question that everyone will like to know the answer to.

    What is next ?
    Is it an aircraft carrier that will be bit enough for Errol ?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    10 days ago by CaptLarry ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Cash,
    They are somewhat, still a plaining hull is affected by propeller torque. It is a function of ascending and descending blade caused by pitch attitude, and direction of blade rotation. This is why runaway boats veer off to the left when the helm is unattended (eventually causes helm hard-over).
    Are you running a 2 or 3 bladed screw?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    10 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Jonathon, my buddy JP is very knowledgeable about OpenTX, in fact I think he helped with the project a bit as it was and I think still is an open source OS
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    10 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Larry, one question. I thought PT boats were planing hulls. Am I mistaken or are they a little of both. When I hear the term displacement hull Iโ€™m thinking of hulls like my little Coast Guard boat and my tug. Correct me if Iโ€™m wrong please sir.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    10 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    Cash,
    it sounds like you are making good progress. Well done. Too bad about your antenna, but it appears to be an easy fix. I am using OpenTX on my FrSky X9E to run my fleet. It seems to me, and I am WAY out of my depth on OTX, that you should be able to set up an automatic dual rate for you rudder based on throttle position. I am not sure that this is allowed, but on RC Groups forum there is thread dedicated to just OTX and the folks are quite tolerant of folks like me, still using a rotary dial phone, asking very rudimentary questions. I would strongly suggest that you try approaching them, or another forum dedicated to OTX.
    Another skin the cat suggestion is to consider splitting your battery pack. Whether this will help you at all, I don't know, but it will sometimes allow you to distribute their weight more to your advantage.
    All in all, it sounds like you are almost there. Bravo Zulu. I would love to see some photos of her in action.
    Jonathan
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    11 days ago by CaptLarry ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Oh by the way, that is with rudder amidships.....if you have very much freeboard, windage may affect the accuracy of your test.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One problem down one to go
    11 days ago by CaptLarry ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Cash,
    Is your PT a single screw? If so, then your turning problem is related to propeller torque. Common on all displacement hull single screw vessels. You can test this at slow (idle) speed by putting it in forward and noting the direction of turn...then put it in reverse and noting direction of backing turn....if it is opposite = torque. I teach new skippers how to u-turn a sailboat in close quarters utilizing this torque (walking the boat).
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    ๐Ÿ“ One more thing
    14 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Oh..forgot to add that I can throw the rudder side to side, and sheโ€™ll rock side to side never changing course. Think Iโ€™m too light...( the boat, not me๐Ÿคฃ)
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    11 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    It looks like I can make a custom automatic dual rate for the PT. The Radiomasterโ€™s operating system is OpenTX. My buddy JP and I were discussing the PTs turning habits, and I told him about this post concerning the full size boats turning. JP is very familiar with what can and canโ€™t be done in OpenTX, and heโ€™s pretty sure itโ€™s possible to have an automatic dual rate thatโ€™s throttle controlled, i.e it will actuate past a certain throttle setting. Heโ€™s also reasonably sure I can set it up to have less throw to starboard than port once actuated. Stay tuned...
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    12 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    PS: You can find Jerry's complete post here: http://www.ptboatforum.com/cgi-bin/MB2/netboardr.cgi?fid=102...
    http://www.ptboatforum.com/cgi-bin/MB2/netboardr.cgi?fid=102&cid=101&tid=5004&pg=1&sc=20&x=0
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    12 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    Cash,
    I reached out to folks on the PT Forum and Gerry Gilmartin kindly responded with the following information and link.
    58ft Higgins for Dutch PT6 Port 368 Stbd 256
    Higgins 78 ft PT69 Port 336 Stbd 274
    77 foot Elco PT20 Port 432 Stbd 382
    Phila Navy Yards PT8 Port 443 Stbd 340

    Here is a video of PT658 in a HS turn you can watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aloAg5HAgHk

    As you can see by the video, they did not turn tight and the bow does not dive. All of the figures for turns are in yards, so the Higgins 78 turned to stbd in 274 yds, port in 336 yds. You should have no trouble scaling those figures to allow adjusting your rudder(s) throw. Now to measure out my ELCO! Good luck . I hope this helps.
    Jonathan
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aloAg5HAgHk
    ๐Ÿ”—
    โ–ถ๏ธ
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    13 days ago by Black Shoe ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    To add to Toradog's comments, another detail is too much rudder angle is as bad as not enough. Anything over about 35 degrees of rudder throw begins to become a detriment leading to some of the symptoms you described. In most cases and tight quarters, max rudder (at 35 degrees) and a momentary increase in RPM may help a turn.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    13 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    Cash,
    Going back and reading thru your build, I gather that you are running one shaft and rudder. Both the Higgins and the ELCO ran three shafts and rudders. of course all three props turned in the same direction, so turning was better in one direction over the other.
    I suspect that a lot of your issues are from the single rudder, which would not be huge by any stretch. I have seen folks build theirs with a single shaft and two or three rudders which gave good response to the helm without excessive rudder throw and thereby avoided the the snap roll you are experiencing. BYT nuclear subs suffer from the same effect when at speed and high amounts of rudder are ordered. Another reason that they like deeeep waters too play in.
    But I digress. If at all possible add two more rudders. This may not be practical without ripping the boat apart, been there, done that, don't encourage it, OR consider a slip on enlargement of the existing rudder that you can bolt into place for running. Removable for display it would leave only to small holes thru your rudder. increasing the surface area of the rudder will increase it's effect and allow you to limit your rudder throw, keeping you away from snap rolls.
    KISS principal. Just don't tell the cat.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    13 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Toradog, i think youโ€™re right. I did my best to keep my weight aft, all radio and power with the exception of the motor are in the aft 30/40 percent of the boat. She has no problems getting on plane in a straight line, but in a turn she tends to scrub her bow. Iโ€™m adding close to a pound of ballast just aft of the motor, it will be secured temporarily until I get her right. If I get her a little too aft heavy, Iโ€™ll go from 7 to 6 cells. I have plenty of power on tap so I can lose a cell and itโ€™ll just be a little slower. Balance first๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: One more thing
    14 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    If you will allow me another comment. Pt's are sensitive to fore/aft weight distribution. It sounds like too much weight is forward. This would make the rudder less effective and cause digging in of the bow when in a hard turn. Remember that the rudder's action changes as the boat heels. The more off of vertical the rudder becomes, the more it tends to act as an elevator, lifting the stern and driving the bow downwards.
    My first suggestion it to carefully mark the scale waterline on the hull. 90% of the weight of the guts of the model should go as far back as possible, which usually entails putting you battery as far aft as possible. I digress... After carefully marking the waterline, distribute the guts in a way the makes everything accessible and safe, ie, in a potentially dry protected position.( sometimes easier said than done, but a receiver in a baggy is not a bad idea). Now place your build in a test tank( a bathtub works great if it will fit.) Move the guts around until you have a level waterline, fore/aft and side to side, remembering that the heaviest item should be almost at the transom.
    I would suggest aiming for straight line performance first. Easy to get onto plane, correct running attitude and reasonable response to the helm. If you can attain that, then work on your turning, remembering that she will turn like a single rudder destroyer(even when they had 3 rudders) except that you may find reducing throttle during a turn helps to balance your rudder input and reduce bow dive.
    I hope this helps. I am still learning and adjusting my 1/16th ELCO, but she runs better than I drive her.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Needs ballast
    15 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi yโ€™all. Iโ€™ve been a bit busy with inventory so Iโ€™ll keep this brief. I maidened the Higgins this past Sunday, ran into 2 issues. One, she was way too light, which resulted in a hard to handle and trim boat. She weighed in at 4 pounds 2 ounces, thought I could run her at that weight but she was squirrelly, would turn to port okay, but right was shaky, and at one point instead of turning right she dug her bow in and and continued straight with a 40 degree list๐Ÿค”. What little water that got in the hull was from one of those escapades, and that sheโ€™d light on another problem. I had the receiver in the right rear corner of the hull, but low, as I wanted to make sure the servo wiring wouldnโ€™t be fouled by the rudder tiller. Sure enough, when she rolled hard right that tablespoon of water would collect there and get the receiver just wet enough to be intermittent. By the time I would get pushed in the receiver would dry out enough to regain control. My buddy Fred used his Vacuboat Vacutow and pushed me in 3 times!! I thinks heโ€™s sending me a bill for salvage๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ Anyway, Iโ€™ve made a few changes in the servo/esc leads routing, moved the rx higher up in the hull and sprayed it down with corrosionX. Iโ€™ve also ballasted her to 5 pounds. Weโ€™ll see how she does.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Needs ballast
    14 days ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi Toradog. I usually mount my rxโ€™s high, but in this case I had it a bit too low because I didnโ€™t want to use an extension..๐Ÿค”. It wasnโ€™t on the floor, but the extreme roll helped it take a bath. Iโ€™ve fitted an extension and have it much higher up now...plus itโ€™s had a bath in CorrosionX.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Needs ballast
    14 days ago by ToraDog ( Warrant Officer)
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    Well done!
    two comments. 1)PT's had a notoriously large turning radius, even the Higgins which had a tighter one than the ELCO. If too much rudder is applied, they lift their sterns and dig in the bow. My ELCO is notorious for that when I try to turn sharply. Solution is to reduce the rudder throw. 2) as a general rule, do not put the receiver in the lowest or low point of the hull, for the exact reason that you ran into, ie, shorting out the receiver. Rather, mount it high and safe( better radio reception as well there). To accomplish your needed routing of the servo lead, add an extension to it. Very inexpensive insurance.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Needs ballast
    14 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Agreed Rowen,
    Plus the axial torque created by the rotating mass of motor, shaft and RH prop (flywheel effect), plus the force of the water shoved up under the hull by the rising prop blades!
    With a clockwise rotating prop (seen from behind when going ahead ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ™ˆ) the 'shove' would be on the underside of the port hull.
    Conversely, on the starboard side the blades are driving water down, away from the hull, creating suction. Both effects summate adding to the torque roll effect in light, fast boats with a single screw.
    Combined with the rudder 'elevator' effect you describe the boat could I suppose in an extreme case 'corkscrew' under! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ˜ญ I guess you'd really really have to over motorise and fit a BIG rudder to actually push it under though - I hope!๐Ÿคž
    (Thinks๐Ÿ’ก might work on my U-25 though! ๐Ÿ˜)

    BTW Cash; on a more practical note - bilge keels might help ๐Ÿ‘
    But most of that problem is probably due to fitting only one drive train (motor, shaft, prop).
    Surely the Higgins PT boats, like the more numerous ELCO version, would have had three shafts? Thus helping to dampen the torque roll effect.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Curiously all the descriptions of the PTBs that I've read mention the 'high manoeuvrability', which doesn't quite gel with 'a notoriously large turning radius'!?
    PPS The angle at which you have set the prop shaft (relative to the horizontal WL at rest / keel line) might also contribute to a pitching effect over the CG/Centre of Buoyancy, thus pushing the bow down when thrust is applied. Combined with the other effects described it could well explain a bow over + list condition!? Pitch & Roll Man!!
    Real solution: fit three drive trains as in the originals (or at least two for balance). ๐Ÿ˜‰
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Needs ballast
    14 days ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The tendancy to dig one side of the hull in on turns is caused by the propeller rotation as it pushes water against the turned rudder surface.
    It is particulary apparent on single screw installations as twins are usually contrarotating and counter each other.

    Although my Brave Borderer is triple screw it will do the same. Perhaps rather less noticably because the outer screws tend to even and damp the forces out.

    Not sure there is much you can do about it, I just reduce the centre screw rpm on RH turns.

    Ballasting the hull might help reduce skittishness. Would have guessed that model is typically around 6/7lbs weight. Never a problem for me as my models tend to be overweight anyway!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Needs ballast
    15 days ago by Ianh ( Commander)
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    Hi Cash
    I believe this is a problem with the Dumas kits of PT212 and 109
    Cheers
    Ian
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    ๐Ÿ“ Ready for the Pacific
    1 month ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi yโ€™all. Paints done, guns are up and radios installed. Sheโ€™s ready to run as is. I have a few more details to do but Iโ€™m going to wait till the maidens done and I have her sorted out. Might be this coming Sunday, or the next. Sheโ€™s at 4 pounds 2 ounces, a little light but Iโ€™ll take some extra ballast with me.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Ready for the Pacific
    1 month ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Errolโ€™s a pretty big cat...he might get transferred to a destroyer๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Ready for the Pacific
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Nice job Cash, don't forget the video camera๐Ÿ˜Š

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Ready for the Pacific
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    A Mean Machine Man ๐Ÿ‘
    BRAVO ZULU Commander.
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Once Lt. (Feline๐Ÿฑ) Errol gets aboard I don't think you'll need any more ballast!!
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    ๐Ÿ“ Paint!!
    1 month ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Just a quick pic of the paint scheme on my PT. I started with a flat olive green and flat green, but they were a little too close in shade, so I took the flat green, added a bit of bright green and yellow, and shot some of the camo in that. Iโ€™ll add some black and details next.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Paint!!
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Looks good Cash๐Ÿ‘

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Oerlikon gun and other things.
    2 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi yโ€™all. The winter storm we had apparently put our dealership behind, so it has been decreed from on high that we are working Sunday๐Ÿ˜  sine the dealership was without power the first of the week, I did my best to keep the house, the girls and the cats warm. My wife agreed that today was a โ€œdaddyโ€ day, so I took advantage and got some more done on the PT.
    The aft Oerlikon gun is built up from metal castings and brass wire and tube. Only real spot that was really challenging was soldering on the shoulder supports so that they lined up. Thereโ€™s supposed to be a cast metal crank handle for the gun, but my kit had 2 ships wheels, so I modified one into a crank. I added 2 screws to help hold the assembly in place on the hatch, got the holes a little too close to the base so the scre heads wouldnโ€™t sit quite flush, so I Coates them with a little thick ca...Iโ€™ll add a little filler later and call it a rough weld๐Ÿ˜‚
    I also soldered up the aft guard that sits just fwd of the gun, and built up the ammo boxes using legos instead of the pine blocks that comes in the kit...just because I could.๐Ÿ˜€
    A couple of stanchions, the smoke generator and a few cleats and sheโ€™s ready for paint!!
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Oerlikon gun and other things.
    2 months ago by CaptLarry ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Cash,
    The flux will clean a little as you solder, but it causes the solder to run where ever the flux flows to. A dry surface cleaned with Isopro will help you keep the solder where you want it.....experiment with it, and you will see that it takes less heat and solder for your application.
    Another thing that helps is to โ€œshockโ€ your iron tip each time before your next solder application. When it comes up to temperature, wipe the tip on a wet/damp sponge...this removes old flux residue and tired solder...gives you a fresh iron tip for a cleaner joint, and new solder flows smoother. Again, less heat and less solder.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Oerlikon gun and other things.
    2 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Larry, I have a habit of just hitting the brass with StayBrite flux, the soldering it together. Probably if hadnโ€™t been so cold in the garage Iโ€™d done a neater job๐Ÿ˜‚.
    I never knew about cleaning the brass with alcohol, thanks for the tip!!
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Oerlikon gun and other things.
    2 months ago by CaptLarry ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Cash,
    I was looking closely at your brass solder joints. Are you cleaning your brass tubing, and solder with isopropyl alcohol before you solder it together? It gets rid of oxidation, and makes a smoother solder joint.
    Just a hint...
    OW....PT lookinโ€™ good! ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ“ Did a little over the weekend
    2 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Got a bit more done before the storm hit. I did the vents and gas caps, the fwd vents are used as is, the rearwar are lengthened with a bit of plastic tube and supported by a dowel glued inside..it extends from the tube about 1/4 inch and is glued into holes drilled in the deck. I did a dry fit of the cabin and torpedoes to see how sheโ€™s going to look.rear gun and few other details and itโ€™s time for paint!!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Did a little over the weekend
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Good work Cash.
    coming along nicely.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Did a little over the weekend
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Looking good Cash๐Ÿ‘

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Baby itโ€™s cold....in the garage!!
    2 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Hi yโ€™all. Itโ€™s been a bit, but Iโ€™m still plugging away. Between work, life and the weather Iโ€™ve been a bit too tired to do much, and as of now we are looking at 3-8 inches of snow, freezing drizzle and lows tomorrow in the single digits...which means my little ceramic space heater is doing good to take the edge off the chill in the garage. However, Iโ€™ve been able to make and install the hatches on the PT. These are simple parts made up of 1 and 2 mm abs and pvc sheet, handles are brass wire and the hinges are cut and sanded 1x4 mm strip abs. I have them built up and installed. I also built up a floor for radio and battery install.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Baby itโ€™s cold....in the garage!!
    2 months ago by redpmg ( Captain)
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    At least that's one thing we don't have Cash - that white stuff only appears on the distant mountains for a very short while. Having said that it was sweltering weather of mid 30c followed a day later by an icy front from the Antartic...........

    Detail coming along well as usual with your builds - good to watch ...........
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    ๐Ÿ“ Full Speed Ahead!!
    2 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    ๐Ÿค•I had a bit of time this morning so I did More work on the torpedo tubes. Iโ€™ll keep it short, but I added the mounts, clamps and details, and started the manifolds, and got 1 tube assembled. The aft of the tube has a plate to which 8 pieces of plastic rod are glued to. These are cut to 1/4 inch, I found it stair to cut a little long and trim in situ after the glue had dried hard. I think I may have found another error, however. There is a wood โ€œclampโ€ that is glued to the tube and mount, it wraps over the tube. The plans and instructions call for it to be glued to the aft mount. In the RCGroups build log, I noticed the builder glued it to the front mount as this makes it easier to mount the manifold. I had already mounted the clamps as per the plans and instructions, so it is what it is. I did relive a spot on the clamp so the manifold would sit on the tube properly.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Full Speed Ahead!!
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looking good Cash,
    They will really come to life when you have paint on them.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ D###! The torpedoes!!!!
    3 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    So...today was my birthday..I turned 60. Iโ€™m officially older than dirt. I splurged a bit, had saved up a bit and bought a new kit and radio, plus took the day off. I went out this morning, paid my property taxes๐Ÿ‘Ž๐Ÿ˜ญ, went to the grocery store, and then about 11 am set about to build the torpedo tubes. The tubes are built up from hardwood dowels that are just shy of an inch in diameter, some sticky back paper, die cut parts and assorted smaller bits. The first thing done is to shorten the dowels to the proper length. Then, the sticky back paper is cut in varying widths for the tube straps, then the mounts are built. Not really that hard just slow tedious work. I got all 4 tubes cut and strapped, and built all 8 mounts and called it a day. Thereโ€™s a bit more to do, plus thereโ€™s 4 thin ply parts that wrap over the top of the tubes. Itโ€™s suggested to soak them in water and then wrap around the tube, or something similar and let dry overnight, that way theyll be formed to fit. I used the cut off from the tube body and used zip ties to secure them as they dry? I then shut down my shop, and made myself a dinner of โ€œSpamenโ€, a James May recipe from his book โ€œOh Cookโ€. I substituted Panko crumbs for the crushed cornflakes, made the spam, ramen, and tossed the ramen with stir fried bok choy and onions. It was good!!
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: D###! The torpedoes!!!!
    2 months ago by redpmg ( Captain)
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    Hi Cash - belated birthday wishes - a relative spring chicken compared to most of us. What did Errol give you ? Glad you treated yourself too.

    Good to hear you enjoy cooking for yourself.

    As usual you are making a great job of building the boat - lucky you too - you should be able to complete your wishlist if you stop adding to it now..........

    At 15 years older (nearer 16) find it would take at least another lifetime...........
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: D###! The torpedoes!!!!
    3 months ago by Cashrc ( Commander)
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    Thanks Martin!! To be honest, somdays I feel like a โ€œsprung โ€œ chicken๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: D###! The torpedoes!!!!
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Cash,
    Happy Birthday, still a spring chicken like me LOL!!.
    The Torpedo Tubes are coming along nicely.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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