Oh cheese! This group is almost as bad as I am. 😎

Perhaps I see things a bit differently, but I always thought that the SAR was just a touch top heavy. Stable, but marginally so. This is one reason that I am really happy with my modified SAR with the lower superstructure. I do look forward to getting her in the water and seeing how close to overpowered I have gotten her. That certainly seems to be my trend. 😁

J.P.

I almost reported this one for being obscene, or at least miSARable. 😀

J.P.

Hey folks... Yep, the first picture is of my new modified SAR. I do like the lower, streamlined cabin. Thanks Cash, I think that we both made a good trade.

Ive been working on a name for my new custom SAR. At one point I was thinking Don Nick, but I think that the winner is SAR Dean Kann.

(I'll be back eventually, after you've forgotten this post.) 😁

J.P.

I'll stick my nose in here. 😊

For light weight electronic components, look to the quadcopter/drone crowd. I use quadcopter ESCs and regulators. A 20A ESC can cost $10 or less and weigh about 4-6g. These ESCs do not have a BEC (perfect for multi-engine boats), but a regulator again costs and weighs little - 5V 2A 2g $5.

The down side is that you have to wire everything up - they all come no leads attached. If you are the least bit of a computer head these BLHELI ESCs can easily be programmed using the computer and a cheap dongle. Various operational parameters are adjustable, including fwd/rev or fwd only, braking strength and subtle motor tweaking parameters. Paint on some silicone modified conformal coating and they are water resistant too. 😊

Just offering an alternative idea. I have a couple of boats powered this way.

J.P.

Edited in Colornote. bold italic underline. This program uses HTML as its operating and storage base for the editor. A text copy will strip all formatting.

I suppose that I will just have to use my old standby of _pseudo_ underlining for emphasis. If really necessary, I can YELL. 😊

J.P.

Is there a way to add things like bold, italics or underline to post text? Some forum systems use keys like [i]italic[/i]. Is there similar for this forum?

J.P.

I think that I'll work on hydrodynamic trim. If I'm running a planing hull I spend by far most of my time on-plane. Not normally full tilt but a fast planing speed. I do agree with your suggestion of ballasting to a proper static attitude first, then trimming for planing attitude. If anything, I'd re-prop for a little more speed. 😀 This hull is quite well behaved and I feel that I am far from overpowering it at this point. Okay, okay... I don't have a need to to faster, but if I were to change anything that is the direction that I would go. 😊

J.P.

For running trim I have tried adding weight forward. On a normal day I bring two battery packs (3s 1400 LiPo). One goes in the radio bay and supplies power while the other goes in the bow to supply trim weight. Yes, this does help bring the bow down. I have tried different weights (3s 2200, 3s 1400, 3s 850) and no ballast. Lots of forward ballast does lower the bow a bit but she still runs a bit high and when static floats with the bow obviously low. This hull does have a bit of curve all the way back to the transom that pulls the stern down fairly strongly. Only two ways that I can figure to correct this trend. One is to reshape the hull (doable but not practical) and the other is to add trim tabs.

One of these days........... 😀

J.P.

Nice find. Crowdsourcing a search like this can work wonders. Now... if we can smuggle these hulls out of the EU. Miss Kitty II is a great running boat, about the only issue I have with it is that when on-plane she runs with the bow pretty high. I keep talking about trying to put some trim plates on her, one of these days it may happen.

As Cash said, I have run her a LOT over the last couple years and she's getting pretty ragged. Time to visit the dry dock and have a good going over.

J.P.

Easy enough to observe in the video (or in person) that at speed this boat does turn much better to port than to starboard. Back off a bit from full power and things get much better, but at or near full power starboard rudder basically causes the boat to heel well to starboard but she hardly turns (or will even continue straight ahead while heeled over about 45 deg.).

Slower her down a little Cash, it looks much better and sails better too.

I can definitely help with OpenTX programming. We could do a multi-stage stepped rate change with throttle or a continuous rate change with throttle. Either one can have different rates port and starboard as you see fit.

A little more tuning of the boat and a lot of tuning of her skipper and she'll be running just fine. 😀

J.P.

Hi Martin. You _may_ be crazy, I don't know you yet. I do know that Cash has more loose screws than a hardware store. 😃 He makes me look normal (I'm not).

I look forward to getting to know the crew around here.

J.P.

Hi. I'm new here, lead astray by CashRC. I can't say that this site has helped me just yet as I just got here, though I expect it will be helpful with my boating activities as other fora have been for flying and audio addictions. At least I am addicted to hobbies and not drugs. 😆

I have been building and flying model planes for over 50 years, RC for almost 50. I added boats to my fleet several years ago, starting with sailboats and progressed to power.

J.P.