Looks like the ASMAR yard in Talcahuano Seaspray.
Pic must have been taken in the empty dock shown in attached map pic.
Worked with them in the late nineties on the Navy's OPV program.
Good times 😊
Cheers, Doug 😎
https://www.google.com/maps/place/ASMAR+Talcahuano+Shipyard/...

https://www.google.com/maps/place/ASMAR+Talcahuano+Shipyard/@-36.693984,-73.1021266,895m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x9662c5410425af2f:0x505e1131102b91d!2sChile!3b1!8m2!3d-35.675147!4d-71.542969!3m4!1s0x966835ec0aaef52b:0x2f111a2e3f3a2309!8m2!3d-36.6917711!4d-73.1041431?hl=en

🔗

Hi Martin555
Martin is my Sunday name

Hi John
Same plans as mine. The sister is getting the Griffon plans for me from Canada It has the same hull as NMR. As I've seen her in dry dock. I'll leave gluing up the keel and hull till Monday as I need to have a good think to do the job right. Must admit never thought it was big job as everything has to be straight and in line. Ta

Hi John,
I think your post is meant for Seaspray.

Martin555.

Hi ya Martin

The plan is from Marine Modelling International Plan - by Jim Pottinger the plan lettering/number is MAR3406.

I made a mistake I was looking along the numbers along the buttock lines on the plan. They are also numbered 1, 2, 3 & so on. What I should have said block in from the stern, frame 0 to 1/2 frame. But, plywood cheek pieces I would put in to replace the deck stringer at the stern - I would go from the stern way passed frame 1 by about an inch heading towards the bow.

I got the plans a good while ago as I was also considering building this model.

John

John Where did you get your plan. sounds it has more info on it than mine. Just a check frame 2 thats the 3rd frame on the right on the build board as I didn't bother fitting frame 0. Yes noticed all those angles
daunting is it. Definitely balsa on the stern and try and plank using cheeks supports for the obechi strips and a little soaking. Remember you told me to soak the ply to get a tight bend on the Meteor forecastle bulwark and it worked.
First picture is the template for the bulwark and then offered up. Look at the bend on the plywood it was soaked for a couple of days. next when it is cut and glued in place.

Never mind John, I suspect we've all had an altercation with the lakeside at some time or other. Not that many would \admit it.

Nerys

Now it looks like a real ship, with docking damage.
Cheers Colin.

Oops!
John, Talking and operating your boat, that comes under the heading of multitasking.
We men, apparently cannot do that but a woman can.
Or so i have been told.LOL!!

Martin555.

Martin555 this is what happens when you are too busy talking and not watching your model 😊 collision with bank - I was busy gossiping to me mate Riggers and the model was away off in the distance, trying to dig itself into a concrete bank at full speed.

John

hi there,

the idea of the cheek pieces placed in the bow and the stern is to help take out the extreme strain of the deck stringer as it turns into the bow post and stern post. On some models, if you try and achieve this bend without soaking or steaming and a lot of faff on, the stringer tends to snap. Looking at the plan, to plank right up to the bow, it wouldn't be a problem. Looking at how you have cut & made the keel at the bow, I wouldn't be too bothered about damage to the bow if you run it into the side of the lake 😀 On the stern, you have a lot of bends and radius' so I would advise blocking in with balsa wood from about frame 2. Once you have completed planking and finishing & you have the hull off the building board, you can then carve out an area to give you more access/space at the stern. I did this on the paddle tug; just a thought.

John

Seaspray,
I personally think if you use blocks at the Bow and you should have an accident it will be easer to repair.

Martin555.

Will do Martin555 and I'll look into more into info on John's idea of cheeks. Still thinking whether or not to take planks all the way to the bow and stern or use block balsa or similar.

Good work. Soon moving foreword with the build.
Rick

Seaspray,
I am glad you are slowly getting this frame problem sorted.
When you have then all glued don't forget to chamfer the frame before you start planking.

Martin555.

I have at times used a piece of wood around the edge of the frame and they looked good. Just thought ⚡ the deck frames 6,7,8, need to be lowered to the building board as I am building the hull upside down. DOH. Martin555 I do go thro my plans quite fast. However I have one set of untouched plans as a spare working reserve set and one ongoing working plan set. Hence a visit to the printer yesterday.

Seaspray,
Looking at the creases in the paper it looks like you just retrieved it from the bin LOL!!

As you say the deck can be sorted out later the main thing is to get the hill shape right first.
By stretching a strip of thin wood across you can easily see what has to be done.

Martin555.

Seaspray,
Are you happy with frames 6, 7, 9, 9 1/2, and 10. ?

If so i would stretch a thin strip of wood across these frames then add or remove wood to/from frame 8.
Start at the keel and work towards the deck.

Then do the same thing at deck level taking note as the deck rises to the bow.

I hope that makes sense.

Martin555.

That's good to hear.
Glad i could help.
Keep the updates coming.

Martin555.

Hi Martin555 I did the trace and pencil No 1 on your list. worked a treat. Did find there was a difference in sizes of the photo copies I made at home compare to the printers in Ayr. I'll stick with the printer's copy from now on. Thanks again.

Cheers Martin555 I think the problem was the Pritt Stick I used to glue the whole lot of the paper frame to the wood distorted the paper. Many thanks

Hi Seaspray,

RE :- Hmmm how do you transfer the traced frame on the tracing paper to the wood.

There a several ways to do this.

1) on the side that will be put on the wood you shade the lines to be drawn with a soft pencil then place the tracing paper on the wood and then draw on your original lines.
The soft pencil shading will stick to the wood then go over them again with your pencil.

2) Place your tracing paper on the wood and prick through the lines with something sharp like a scriber.
Then remove the paper and join the dots with your pencil.

3) cut around the image on the tracing paper place it on the wood then carefully draw around it.

Martin555.

John
I did as you said with the obechi on the frame and they looked good till I got 3/4 the way up and a gap started to appear. Your right it is a height problem. Ta

Getting the frames and keel in the correct position will pay dividends through out the build.
Rick

Seaspray,

According to the plan I have - the prop tubes are parallel to the keel - and not at an angle - make sure you have enough room. Also, in the past a few of Jim Pottinger plans which I have used - the frame drawings aren't 100% - so be careful. I am sure this is something to do with distortion when the original plans go to the Printers. What I have done previously is built up the edge of the frame using 1.5 mm x 5.00 mm Obechi & before I attach the strip to the edge of the frame I soak the strip in boiling water - making it easy to bend and follow the shape of the frame.

So, as long as your deck edge looks straight and right - look for the low frames which are out of line and build them up.

I have just been going through some files to see if I can find a photograph of where I needed to alter the frames - and the only one I can find at the current time is from MV Duburg which is also from James Pottinger plans. The worst frame alteration I needed to do was when I did the little tug, MSC Archer. It was a free plan that one from Model Boats - I had to do a lot of alterations to the frames. It's not an uncommon thing to have to double check and redraw some frames, especially with modern day technology - it's supposed to be much more accurate on printing but I have had a good few plans with a lot of distortion to them.

Have a look at this picture - where I am laying the batten over the frames to work out which ones are high and which ones are low - you can just see the gap on the first frame on the picture if you look closely.

Dont let it get you down either - I have spent many many a day fitting frames and lifting them off the building board - a little tweak here and a tweak there end up taking all the frames off the board - and start again. It's worth it in the end.

John

John I looked at the motor mounting position/shaft/prop when cutting the frame I think I've enough room to get the shaft thru frames see pic. Can't find any info on plan the angles the prop shafts tappers out from the hull. Did see the solid block from the hull on plan. I cut the keel with it on. Frame 6/7/8 are the decks for the workdeck its lower than the forecastle deck by 25 mm and all other deck to the rear. So it'll be a case of lowering the keel rather than raising the frames I remember you saying you were speaking to J.P. about a drawing mistake. He said on another site that he drew the plan from a small G.A. drawing on Shipping World & Shipbuilders

Martin I was on it all day yesterday and at 9p.m. just walk away from it. Start a new day tmo with a fresh look at it cheers

hi there
I think you will find it isnt frame 9 that looks too high but frame 8 that looks a little too low. The lump on the end (I am unsure if you know) is like a solid block which protrudes from the keel on the real ship to help crack the ice.

Just as a side note are you not going to put the holes in frames 2, 3 and 4 to take the prop tubes? You may find it a bit awkward once you have assembled the frames on the board and also if you have skinned the hull. A lot easier to put oversize holes in the frames to allow you a bit wiggle room for aligning the tubes up.

john

Seaspray,
Have you double checked the frame with the drawings ?
Dose the deck line look right ?
You have a pencil mark above frame 8 dose that also mean that frame 8 will have to be tweaked.
It is important to get everything right at this stage so really take your time and tweak it as much as is needed.

If you use a thin strip of wood across several frames and look at the curve it will also help to see what needs doing.

When you are happy with it don't forget to chamfer the frames before planking.

Martin555.

A little adjustment here and there will be needed Cheers

Thanks I find it that way to cheers

A great start, this method of building and attention to alignment brings accuracy to the final structure and ease of building from this point.

Good start with the building board. Making frames square to the board will give everything the start you want. Take your time with this setup as every thing builds from here.Good luck.
Rick

Never to old. Just a number.Carry on carrying on.Well done.
Rick

John
I'll have a good look at it tmo many thanks again

Seen (cheeks) like these on one of your builds on MBM but didn't twig Ta

No problem Doug. See G.C.H.Q is recruiting Dyslexia personal. Might try but too old at 70 odd

Heartily agree on the cheek pieces John👍
Much much easier 😀
😎

hi there

In the past the deck stringer I normally laminate is from 2 - 3 pieces. If say you are going to use a 5mm square piece of timber for your deck stringers, what I myself would do, is, substitute it with 2 pieces of timber 2.5 mm x 5 mm laminated.

As for the bend of the deck stringer at the bow and stern; I would make 2 cheek pieces of the correct shape from either the 1st and 2nd rib to the bow and the same at the stern. This eases the bend of the deck stringer.

John

Dyslexia😮
Ooops, sorry about that Seaspray😔
No offence meant! Onest injun.
A building board is a very good idea, stops things twisting / getting out of line.
Cheers, Doug 😎

AHHHH The price of being Dyslexia. Another one is the difference between Bs and Ds I've had to use two words to help suss out the difference B for baby and D for daddy On the computer is a nightmare. Do a lot of thinking out of the box to.

Thanks for the info on the stringers. I thought of building frames / keel on building board then you would have a solid hull to work with.

Easy peasy Seaspray😉
The top (deck level) stringer slot is cut so that the deck sits flat on it.
For stringers further down the frame the slots are cut tangential to the curve of the frame.
When all stringers are fitted the excess protruding wood (corners) is sanded off.
Use a sanding block (like a chunk of 2x1") long enough to always cover at least two frames.
Hope that helps.
Good luck 🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Added a couple of Angels to help you along the way 😁

Time is on your side with retirement .It is surprising how fast a build does go.
Rick

Newby7 Surprised how fast it is being built but have more time now Iam retired. Can't wait till it is off the building board.

Good work onward and upward to the building.Nice looking work.
Rick