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    9

















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    C.C.G.S Norman McLeod Rogers
    by Seaspray ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    ๐Ÿ“ NMR in dock
    21 hours ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I am sure this is the NMR in dry dock her colour scheme looks like she is in the Chilean navy now. It was her bow shape I was interested in, and it helped a lot.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: NMR in dock
    15 hours ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looks like the ASMAR yard in Talcahuano Seaspray.
    Pic must have been taken in the empty dock shown in attached map pic.
    Worked with them in the late nineties on the Navy's OPV program.
    Good times ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.google.com/maps/place/ASMAR+Talcahuano+Shipyard/...
    https://www.google.com/maps/place/ASMAR+Talcahuano+Shipyard/@-36.693984,-73.1021266,895m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x9662c5410425af2f:0x505e1131102b91d!2sChile!3b1!8m2!3d-35.675147!4d-71.542969!3m4!1s0x966835ec0aaef52b:0x2f111a2e3f3a2309!8m2!3d-36.6917711!4d-73.1041431?hl=en
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ“ Almost there
    4 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Checked all the frames happy with them except frame 8 its being sorted see picture. Keel is straight. At the stage where I am considering gluing it up.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    1 day ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Martin555
    Martin is my Sunday name
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    1 day ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi John
    Same plans as mine. The sister is getting the Griffon plans for me from Canada It has the same hull as NMR. As I've seen her in dry dock. I'll leave gluing up the keel and hull till Monday as I need to have a good think to do the job right. Must admit never thought it was big job as everything has to be straight and in line. Ta
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    1 day ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi John,
    I think your post is meant for Seaspray.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    1 day ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi ya Martin

    The plan is from Marine Modelling International Plan - by Jim Pottinger the plan lettering/number is MAR3406.

    I made a mistake I was looking along the numbers along the buttock lines on the plan. They are also numbered 1, 2, 3 & so on. What I should have said block in from the stern, frame 0 to 1/2 frame. But, plywood cheek pieces I would put in to replace the deck stringer at the stern - I would go from the stern way passed frame 1 by about an inch heading towards the bow.

    I got the plans a good while ago as I was also considering building this model.

    John
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    2 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    John Where did you get your plan. sounds it has more info on it than mine. Just a check frame 2 thats the 3rd frame on the right on the build board as I didn't bother fitting frame 0. Yes noticed all those angles
    daunting is it. Definitely balsa on the stern and try and plank using cheeks supports for the obechi strips and a little soaking. Remember you told me to soak the ply to get a tight bend on the Meteor forecastle bulwark and it worked.
    First picture is the template for the bulwark and then offered up. Look at the bend on the plywood it was soaked for a couple of days. next when it is cut and glued in place.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    2 days ago by Nerys ( Admiral)
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    Never mind John, I suspect we've all had an altercation with the lakeside at some time or other. Not that many would \admit it.

    Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    2 days ago by Colin H ( Vice Admiral)
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    Now it looks like a real ship, with docking damage.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    2 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Oops!
    John, Talking and operating your boat, that comes under the heading of multitasking.
    We men, apparently cannot do that but a woman can.
    Or so i have been told.LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    3 days ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Martin555 this is what happens when you are too busy talking and not watching your model ๐Ÿ˜Š collision with bank - I was busy gossiping to me mate Riggers and the model was away off in the distance, trying to dig itself into a concrete bank at full speed.

    John
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    3 days ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there,

    the idea of the cheek pieces placed in the bow and the stern is to help take out the extreme strain of the deck stringer as it turns into the bow post and stern post. On some models, if you try and achieve this bend without soaking or steaming and a lot of faff on, the stringer tends to snap. Looking at the plan, to plank right up to the bow, it wouldn't be a problem. Looking at how you have cut & made the keel at the bow, I wouldn't be too bothered about damage to the bow if you run it into the side of the lake ๐Ÿ˜€ On the stern, you have a lot of bends and radius' so I would advise blocking in with balsa wood from about frame 2. Once you have completed planking and finishing & you have the hull off the building board, you can then carve out an area to give you more access/space at the stern. I did this on the paddle tug; just a thought.

    John
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    3 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Seaspray,
    I personally think if you use blocks at the Bow and you should have an accident it will be easer to repair.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    3 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Will do Martin555 and I'll look into more into info on John's idea of cheeks. Still thinking whether or not to take planks all the way to the bow and stern or use block balsa or similar.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    3 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Good work. Soon moving foreword with the build.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost there
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Seaspray,
    I am glad you are slowly getting this frame problem sorted.
    When you have then all glued don't forget to chamfer the frame before you start planking.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Workdeck angles
    5 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    When I built the frames for the workdeck 6,7,8. I cut them so as the decks was the all the same height all with 55mm led supports. Later I would be adding strips of wood to bring the to correct height. Should have worked to the deck slope on the plan which means the support leg would be gradually longer. I'll put extensions on the current
    frames 6,7,8, and see how we go.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Workdeck angles
    5 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have at times used a piece of wood around the edge of the frame and they looked good. Just thought โšก the deck frames 6,7,8, need to be lowered to the building board as I am building the hull upside down. DOH. Martin555 I do go thro my plans quite fast. However I have one set of untouched plans as a spare working reserve set and one ongoing working plan set. Hence a visit to the printer yesterday.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Workdeck angles
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Seaspray,
    Looking at the creases in the paper it looks like you just retrieved it from the bin LOL!!

    As you say the deck can be sorted out later the main thing is to get the hill shape right first.
    By stretching a strip of thin wood across you can easily see what has to be done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reprint off plans
    5 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Took the original plan to the printers and got a new sheet 2 copy and two separate flipped frame sections. These plan frames have been checked. Happy with 1-7 frames on model. No 8 was the problem just didn't look right all round. Recut a new frame 8 which was spot on. Correct width overall and height from tip of frame to deck line 80 mm and length of support legs at 55 mm. You can see the plan down at the baseline is a lot clearer where the rear frame lines merge this was a blob on my own printer. Have been doing all measuring from the base line. New frame 8 is 4 mm short in height. The plot thickens See pics
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Reprint off plans
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Seaspray,
    Are you happy with frames 6, 7, 9, 9 1/2, and 10. ?

    If so i would stretch a thin strip of wood across these frames then add or remove wood to/from frame 8.
    Start at the keel and work towards the deck.

    Then do the same thing at deck level taking note as the deck rises to the bow.

    I hope that makes sense.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Griffon Line Drawings
    8 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    As I am having a little trouble with these frames I am contacting the Canadian Coast Guard to see if I can get line drawing of the hull. I Believe the hull is the same

    If your interest I have a link in My Harbour
    to my building blog on this model U.S.C.G. Ports & Harbours Boat.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Height difference in frames
    10 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    If you look at Tom's keel and frames you see that frame 8 is slightly down from the keel. All the rest are up to the top of keel ( X s). Also the piece of steel for helping brake up the ice isn't on the keel like mine. I am going to cut frame 8 higher so there is a slight camber down to frame 9 or equal. The next picture shows the frame is miss cut. I am now in future going to trace using tracing paper from the original plan. Using a printer and cheap photo coping paper then gluing it to the wood it either shrinks or expands. I'll cut a cardboard template offering it up before I cut the wooden frame 8. Tracing paper on plan to trace frame 8. Hmmm how do you transfer the traced frame on the tracing paper to the wood. hopefully its not carbon paper.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Height difference in frames
    9 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    That's good to hear.
    Glad i could help.
    Keep the updates coming.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Height difference in frames
    9 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Martin555 I did the trace and pencil No 1 on your list. worked a treat. Did find there was a difference in sizes of the photo copies I made at home compare to the printers in Ayr. I'll stick with the printer's copy from now on. Thanks again.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Height difference in frames
    10 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Cheers Martin555 I think the problem was the Pritt Stick I used to glue the whole lot of the paper frame to the wood distorted the paper. Many thanks
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Height difference in frames
    10 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Seaspray,

    RE :- Hmmm how do you transfer the traced frame on the tracing paper to the wood.

    There a several ways to do this.

    1) on the side that will be put on the wood you shade the lines to be drawn with a soft pencil then place the tracing paper on the wood and then draw on your original lines.
    The soft pencil shading will stick to the wood then go over them again with your pencil.

    2) Place your tracing paper on the wood and prick through the lines with something sharp like a scriber.
    Then remove the paper and join the dots with your pencil.

    3) cut around the image on the tracing paper place it on the wood then carefully draw around it.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Keel fitted
    12 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Fitted the keel yesterday few tweaks here an there. Just discovered the front of the keel wasn't trimmed off at the right height see picture one. Other pictures show a little problem with frame 9 second one from the bow. Seems too high to me ??
    3rd and 4 frame near enough at the right height see the pencil mark on the frame.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    10 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    John
    I did as you said with the obechi on the frame and they looked good till I got 3/4 the way up and a gap started to appear. Your right it is a height problem. Ta
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Getting the frames and keel in the correct position will pay dividends through out the build.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Seaspray,

    According to the plan I have - the prop tubes are parallel to the keel - and not at an angle - make sure you have enough room. Also, in the past a few of Jim Pottinger plans which I have used - the frame drawings aren't 100% - so be careful. I am sure this is something to do with distortion when the original plans go to the Printers. What I have done previously is built up the edge of the frame using 1.5 mm x 5.00 mm Obechi & before I attach the strip to the edge of the frame I soak the strip in boiling water - making it easy to bend and follow the shape of the frame.

    So, as long as your deck edge looks straight and right - look for the low frames which are out of line and build them up.

    I have just been going through some files to see if I can find a photograph of where I needed to alter the frames - and the only one I can find at the current time is from MV Duburg which is also from James Pottinger plans. The worst frame alteration I needed to do was when I did the little tug, MSC Archer. It was a free plan that one from Model Boats - I had to do a lot of alterations to the frames. It's not an uncommon thing to have to double check and redraw some frames, especially with modern day technology - it's supposed to be much more accurate on printing but I have had a good few plans with a lot of distortion to them.

    Have a look at this picture - where I am laying the batten over the frames to work out which ones are high and which ones are low - you can just see the gap on the first frame on the picture if you look closely.

    Dont let it get you down either - I have spent many many a day fitting frames and lifting them off the building board - a little tweak here and a tweak there end up taking all the frames off the board - and start again. It's worth it in the end.

    John
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    John I looked at the motor mounting position/shaft/prop when cutting the frame I think I've enough room to get the shaft thru frames see pic. Can't find any info on plan the angles the prop shafts tappers out from the hull. Did see the solid block from the hull on plan. I cut the keel with it on. Frame 6/7/8 are the decks for the workdeck its lower than the forecastle deck by 25 mm and all other deck to the rear. So it'll be a case of lowering the keel rather than raising the frames I remember you saying you were speaking to J.P. about a drawing mistake. He said on another site that he drew the plan from a small G.A. drawing on Shipping World & Shipbuilders
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Martin I was on it all day yesterday and at 9p.m. just walk away from it. Start a new day tmo with a fresh look at it cheers
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there
    I think you will find it isnt frame 9 that looks too high but frame 8 that looks a little too low. The lump on the end (I am unsure if you know) is like a solid block which protrudes from the keel on the real ship to help crack the ice.

    Just as a side note are you not going to put the holes in frames 2, 3 and 4 to take the prop tubes? You may find it a bit awkward once you have assembled the frames on the board and also if you have skinned the hull. A lot easier to put oversize holes in the frames to allow you a bit wiggle room for aligning the tubes up.

    john
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel fitted
    12 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Seaspray,
    Have you double checked the frame with the drawings ?
    Dose the deck line look right ?
    You have a pencil mark above frame 8 dose that also mean that frame 8 will have to be tweaked.
    It is important to get everything right at this stage so really take your time and tweak it as much as is needed.

    If you use a thin strip of wood across several frames and look at the curve it will also help to see what needs doing.

    When you are happy with it don't forget to chamfer the frames before planking.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Frames on to building board
    13 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Working on the frames all cut out and mounted on to the building board. Quite a lot to learn here. Offered the keel on the frames half way thro I think the keel has a little bend. Things might need a wee tweak here an there. First picture is drilling the holes for the mounting. Picture two I didn't leave enough room on the edge of the building board to get a clamp to catch on so the tape did the trick Picture 3 some frames on their supporting block. Problems here as I don't think they were square. last two picture all frames mounted on board. Didn't twig the forward deck is lower than the rear deck and I had to modify the height on the frames 6,7,8 I'll investigate the keel tmo.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frames on to building board
    12 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    A little adjustment here and there will be needed Cheers
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frames on to building board
    12 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks I find it that way to cheers
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frames on to building board
    12 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    A great start, this method of building and attention to alignment brings accuracy to the final structure and ease of building from this point.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frames on to building board
    13 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Good start with the building board. Making frames square to the board will give everything the start you want. Take your time with this setup as every thing builds from here.Good luck.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ“ Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Tricky one this for me. See the pictures Its the stringers they have at least 3 angles to fit in their right position. Kind of stumped how to tackle this problem.
    Angel 1 flush with side of frame
    Angel 2 flush with top of frame the deck
    Angel 3 the cut for the turn on the bow and stern
    The frames that have straight edges are an easy square cut as there are 4/5 amidships. ( last picture )
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    15 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Never to old. Just a number.Carry on carrying on.Well done.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    John
    I'll have a good look at it tmo many thanks again

    Seen (cheeks) like these on one of your builds on MBM but didn't twig Ta
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    No problem Doug. See G.C.H.Q is recruiting Dyslexia personal. Might try but too old at 70 odd
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Heartily agree on the cheek pieces John๐Ÿ‘
    Much much easier ๐Ÿ˜€
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there

    In the past the deck stringer I normally laminate is from 2 - 3 pieces. If say you are going to use a 5mm square piece of timber for your deck stringers, what I myself would do, is, substitute it with 2 pieces of timber 2.5 mm x 5 mm laminated.

    As for the bend of the deck stringer at the bow and stern; I would make 2 cheek pieces of the correct shape from either the 1st and 2nd rib to the bow and the same at the stern. This eases the bend of the deck stringer.

    John
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Dyslexia๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Ooops, sorry about that Seaspray๐Ÿ˜”
    No offence meant! Onest injun.
    A building board is a very good idea, stops things twisting / getting out of line.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angles
    16 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    AHHHH The price of being Dyslexia. Another one is the difference between Bs and Ds I've had to use two words to help suss out the difference B for baby and D for daddy On the computer is a nightmare. Do a lot of thinking out of the box to.

    Thanks for the info on the stringers. I thought of building frames / keel on building board then you would have a solid hull to work with.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stringer Angels
    16 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Easy peasy Seaspray๐Ÿ˜‰
    The top (deck level) stringer slot is cut so that the deck sits flat on it.
    For stringers further down the frame the slots are cut tangential to the curve of the frame.
    When all stringers are fitted the excess protruding wood (corners) is sanded off.
    Use a sanding block (like a chunk of 2x1") long enough to always cover at least two frames.
    Hope that helps.
    Good luck ๐Ÿคž
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Added a couple of Angels to help you along the way ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ“ Frame centres cut out
    20 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Here is an update of the centres cut out of the frames and offered up to the keel. Still have to mark up and cut out stringers slots. Off on a little break.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frame centres cut out
    19 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Time is on your side with retirement .It is surprising how fast a build does go.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frame centres cut out
    19 days ago by Seaspray ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Newby7 Surprised how fast it is being built but have more time now Iam retired. Can't wait till it is off the building board.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Frame centres cut out
    20 days ago by Newby7 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Good work onward and upward to the building.Nice looking work.
    Rick
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