As I am having a little trouble with these frames I am contacting the Canadian Coast Guard to see if I can get line drawing of the hull. I Believe the hull is the same

If your interest I have a link in My Harbour
to my building blog on this model U.S.C.G. Ports & Harbours Boat.

Took the original plan to the printers and got a new sheet 2 copy and two separate flipped frame sections. These plan frames have been checked. Happy with 1-7 frames on model. No 8 was the problem just didn't look right all round. Recut a new frame 8 which was spot on. Correct width overall and height from tip of frame to deck line 80 mm and length of support legs at 55 mm. You can see the plan down at the baseline is a lot clearer where the rear frame lines merge this was a blob on my own printer. Have been doing all measuring from the base line. New frame 8 is 4 mm short in height. The plot thickens See pics

When I built the frames for the workdeck 6,7,8. I cut them so as the decks was the all the same height all with 55mm led supports. Later I would be adding strips of wood to bring the to correct height. Should have worked to the deck slope on the plan which means the support leg would be gradually longer. I'll put extensions on the current
frames 6,7,8, and see how we go.

Checked all the frames happy with them except frame 8 its being sorted see picture. Keel is straight. At the stage where I am considering gluing it up.

I am sure this is the NMR in dry dock her colour scheme looks like she is in the Chilean navy now. It was her bow shape I was interested in, and it helped a lot.

After a lot of thinking about it. I think this is best way to get a cheek to go round to and an inch passed frame 1. Have to be careful cutting the cheek in ply the template didn't work. So I replaced the thin strip of ply used earlier and made another template. Which was good and cut the inside line out pic 2. fitted nicely. Pic 3 I trimmed the outside of the ply and looks a good fit. Tried to to continue the curb in the same line to maate up with the obechi stringers from frame 1. Is it time to glue this cheek into position ?

I've glued the keel to the frames but haven't glued the stern cheek yet. Wondering if a cheek at the bow would be a better idea or balsa ?. Its a tight turn but wetting the obechi would help. The stringer there runs from bow to frame 8 then it stops as the deck has a height difference. Just incase anybody hasn.t sussed it I am doing a kind of step by step of Cervia Tug Build on Mayhem. Right Iam off to the pond for the maiden voyage of my U.S.C.G Ports & Waterway Model. Last minute thought was wondering if I should fit the frame 10 on the bow to the help with the turn of the stringer.

As the pictures show I've glue 5 x 5 mm pieces of obechi between the frames to give further support to the planks closest to the keel. If I get a good day outside I will start sanding the frames to their shape. Making a start with support first pic and all glued up ready for sanding in the second pic.

Having a little problem with the frames. I intend to use card to build a new set frames to see where the problem is.

Originally I went for 30 mm support legs on the rear deck . Measuring the plan a drop of 25 mm for the work deck so I cut and made frames of 55mm (30 + 25 = 55) but it doesn.t work that way DOH Think I found the problem. I measure from the frame 10 on the bow up 30 mm to give a Building Board Line., As John says sorry mate I am metric. Then cut frames templates 10-91/2 Then I drew the BBL across the plan over to the left hand side of the plan which gave me a BBL for all decks on plan. I notice this time all the support legs are the same height when the frame templates are laid in their positions Two things some of the templates are just slightly too big not by much and frame 9 seems just a little big . Dare I cut a new keel and frames