Seaspray,
Are you happy with frames 6, 7, 9, 9 1/2, and 10. ?

If so i would stretch a thin strip of wood across these frames then add or remove wood to/from frame 8.
Start at the keel and work towards the deck.

Then do the same thing at deck level taking note as the deck rises to the bow.

I hope that makes sense.

Martin555.

Seaspray,
Looking at the creases in the paper it looks like you just retrieved it from the bin LOL!!

As you say the deck can be sorted out later the main thing is to get the hill shape right first.
By stretching a strip of thin wood across you can easily see what has to be done.

Martin555.

I have at times used a piece of wood around the edge of the frame and they looked good. Just thought ⚡ the deck frames 6,7,8, need to be lowered to the building board as I am building the hull upside down. DOH. Martin555 I do go thro my plans quite fast. However I have one set of untouched plans as a spare working reserve set and one ongoing working plan set. Hence a visit to the printer yesterday.

Hi John
Same plans as mine. The sister is getting the Griffon plans for me from Canada It has the same hull as NMR. As I've seen her in dry dock. I'll leave gluing up the keel and hull till Monday as I need to have a good think to do the job right. Must admit never thought it was big job as everything has to be straight and in line. Ta

Hi Martin555
Martin is my Sunday name

Hi Seaspray,
Here's a little info on her Chilean service, in case you haven't already found it. 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilean_icebreaker_Almirante_%C3%93scar_Viel
Lotsa pics here
https://www.google.com/search?q=Icebreaker+Almirante+%C3%93scar+Viel%5B&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=lOaNc-cYh6B4LM%252CRsqP6DcdAhL9LM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTP4RaWE1rSJCqH7YmQPMyzb3EJnA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjpq8LPvdDwAhWKiqQKHTx3DLAQ9QF6BAgXEAE#imgrc=lOaNc-cYh6B4LM

Cheers Doug No I don't have them pictures appreciated

Doug
That looks nice and neat.
Seaspray👍

Thanks Martin 😊
Since then I've finished the hull as I described below and sprayed gloss white.
Unfortunately my photos of that stage went 'south' when my PC drive crashed a few weeks ago. I'm hoping the pics are still in my camera memory card!

Go easy with the filler primer spray at this stage; gentle light coats.
Overdo it with a single heavy (too close/too slow) coat and you may find yourself going back one stage!
Watching with 'paternal' interest 😉😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi my mate

First of all, don't try and over think the job that you are doing. If it were me building this hull; now we have the frames set up on the board and you have the last frame in at the bow; you need to make yourself a flat sanding block. Something along the lines of 2 inches wide 1 inch thick and say, 10 inches long - rounded at one end. Now, you need some double sided tape - I normally use the tape carpet fitters use as its pretty strong stuff. Get yourself some coarse sand paper and stick it onto the block.

Now, with the block, what you need to do is fair in and even all the frames up. This is where you will find if there are frames that are a bit big, little too small or whatever. Work from the centre frame out to the bow, sanding at 45 degrees to the keel. Same at the stern - work from the middle to the stern. Do not put too much pressure on at the moment as the frames will not support it properly and will begin to vibrate - just gently do it.

If one or two frames are say 1/16 of an inch out - if its proud sand them - to size - if shallow (small) pack them.

Next thing to do is add pieces along the centre of the keel either side - normally I would use 5 x 5 mm obechi or birch - glued either side. The reason for this is it gives you extra landing to glue on to when you start planking.

So, we have completed that

Now....fit the deck stringers. Now... this is just my way of doing it. Your hull is basically a 3 tier hull, you have a raised aft deck a lower cargo deck and a raised bow.

Now, the lower cargo deck basically runs from frames 6,7 and just passed 8 and actually just passed frame 5. So, you need to add a stringer both sides of the hull at this level. This stringer I would run the full length of the hull - so - from frame 0 all the way to frame 10.

Then do the raised rear deck - that stringer I would run from frame 1 to just passed frame 5 - the bow deck I would run the stringer from just before frame 2 to frame 10. Once these have been glued in place then go back and sand & true up all your frames. This is so that actually the frames now will taper to the bow and stern - you should have no sharp edges for the planks to lie on. You will also find that the bow at the keel will be sanded to a point and also frame 10 will be well sanded in and be half the size it is at the moment.

It is certainly up to yourself though how you start planking your hull.

Normally when I begin planking the hull I will start 3 or 4 planks from the centre of the keel towards the deck. Whilst they are drying I turn the hull round and plank 3 or 4 planks on the opposite side. This is so that, as the glue and planks dry out we don't get any twisting or distortion. Then I would plank from the deck 3 or 4 planks up over towards the keel either side. I will then alternate from then on.

Best of luck.

John

Hi John I was wondering how to tackle the framing cheers for that. Thats the way I am going. You know you can read 10 books on model building and get no where. I'll leave the hull for a week and take a rest from it Ta.👍👍

This ply is really dry as the sawdust is unreal. Had to do the sanding outside today. More or lees finished sanding the plank supports between the frames. Maybe too enthusiastic as no 10 frame may need packing. Measured it and its different distance from the center line.

Keep going you will get there in the end.

Martin555.

hi there Scots Martin

Ok then, I think your problem is - that you are getting your lines mixed up here.

Here is a suggestion for ya, if you are starting again, with your frames. Begin first of all by drawing a line roughly 3/4 inch above frame 10 at the bow. This is going to represent your building board.

Now, take all the measurements from your waterline (and no other line). So, if you are measuring say the depth of the keel on say frame 7; measure down on the side profile from the waterline down to the base of the keel. See where that corresponds on your line plan. That is where that frame should end.

Draw in from deck level up to your building board line; your supports. To check that, measure from your waterline on your frame plans up to the line drawn that represents your building board.

Do this with every frame.

I would strongly recommend that you trace each frame and check that tracing against your body plan and also your side profile plan. Also, draw one frame per sheet - so therefore, you can lay the tracing paper sheets on top of one another to see that the frames are corresponding with one another.

Try not to overthink the job - just go for it :-)

Hope this helps - and good luck.

John

Thanks John I'll try that I thought I was reading the plan somewhere wrong but just couldn't find what it was. Got all the paper frames cut and glued on to cardboard but will go your way sound better. Ta.

Maybe you could make a cardboard keel and fit it all together and you would have a better idea of fit.
If it looks good then you will know what you will have to do next.

Martin555.

Yes good idea cheers Martin555. I also made the support legs 30 mm from the frame 10 the BBL as I was scuffing my knuckles when I did the sanding on the frames last time. Hope they're not too long and able to take the strain when sanding