Hi Simon,
Here's the link to my hull treatment of my Sea Scout renovation.
Scroll down to
The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
Cheers, Doug 😎
https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#40050

blogs/28209#40050

🔗

Well explained Doug, I agree with you on flaking car body filler. Using a fine grade polyester putty is easy and cleans up well.
After 30 plus years renovating basket cases I never try for perfection as it removes the history of life from the model.
Cheers Colin.

Hi SiFi,
Afraid I can't endorse Seapray's advice re
"Try and get the P 38 when it is really soft and spread a thin layer all the way along the model like a new skin."
If you do that you'll be working backwards.
You'll end up with more defects and sanding to do than you have now.
Not only that, thin extended layers of filler have an irritating habit of flaking off over time, especially if they get knocked and banged.
When I get to the stage that you have I use a very fine plastic putty, such as Revell, for the very small defects. For the larger ones, such as your screw heads I use a very fine polyester finishing filler.
Check out my Sea Scout Jessica and Fish Cutter Gina 2 for examples of hull restorations - with generous dollops of patience as the main ingredient! 😉
Oh, and b4 I forget; apply filler with an old credit card - nice and flexible fills small pits and cracks easily without too much excess to have to sand back, and to boot it's easy to clean when the filler is hardened! Just flex it 😉
I rarely use an electric sander, and then only in the initial stages for shaping/flattening off the hull, or removing old paint etc, before any filling or priming commences.
During priming, finishing filling, painting I use Tamiya wet/dry sanding sponges, in grades from 180/240 up to (or is that down to?) 3000 before the final lacquer coat.
However you do your hull try to enjoy the process, you'll learn more😉 and don't forget the patience 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Keep using the P 38 tackle each hole and imperfection separately. You just need a very light spray of primer/filler each time till you see the holes and imperfections are smooth. Once this is near enough perfect ( if there is such a thing) Try and get the P 38 when it is really soft and spread a thin layer all the way along the model like a new skin. Hopefully you have a little electric which helps a lot

Ok cheers Geoff, Thanks for the Advice 👍

Looks like you got a lovely finish on yours Seaspray. Gives me a bit of confidence to keep going 👍

I use Wickes wood filler which works well and fills well and stays put. Easily sanded to fit its surroundings.

Geoff

This what I was up against a bad resin job Got as much as the resin off gave up start with the p38 and filler primer. I got the goods from Halfords and the filler/primer had a yellow top

Cheers Seaspray, I like the idea of a filler primer. I might pop out and get one of those tomorrow then and give that a try. I think I’ve got it to a nice smooth surface overall just these small splits and screw holes. I’ll keep going 😉

Hi Martin, No, no fibreglass. I’m just trying to get a reasonably smooth surface before painting to a gloss finish. I can’t believe how many holes and cracks have appeared 😆

Ok Rick cheers. I’ve got some fine surface filler now so I’ll sand it down with the grades you said. More bloody sanding 🙄. 👍

P38 is the best filler I've found

I.ve been using P38 for years. you don't really see the holes and rough surfaces till you spray with primer. then start again rub down and spray, I've also used a filler primer all got from Halfords. If its really rough I use a small electric sander. Sometimes its best to concentrate on the worst areas first.

Sifi,
It is amazing what shows up when you give it a coat of primer.
I have used ordinary DIY wood filler and have had no problems.
Are you planning on Fibreglassing the Hull ?

Martin555.

As far as filler I have used car bondo and wood filler products.The best I can say is to be able to sand to a smooth finish using fine sand paper.The finer you use will
give you the best result.Start with a low number 100 grit and move up to 1000 or more. The finer you go the smother the finish will.For me it is time and patents.
Rick

Ok Colin, I promise. I’m not that good anyway. Just want to remove some of the bad ones 😮

Lol. Ok Martin, I’ll do my best 👍

Don't lose all the imperfections, that's part of the character of these vintage boats. Those little marks and imperfections tell the story.
Cheers Colin.

Cheers, Thank god for electric sanders 🤣

Sifi,
I am looking forward to the next update.

Martin555.

Cheers Martin. Yes she’s coming up very nicely really considering her age. Going to try and put some undercoat on the hull now. That should show up the imperfections ☹️

Hi Simon,
It sounds like most of the horrible stuff is almost over and you can start to enjoy getting this great model back to how she should be.
Great work.

Martin555.

Like this model and it is all wood. Nice job there rubbing down

Cheers Will & Rick. Yep, I’ll keep plugging away 👍

Making good progress.
It's going to be a nice boat when it's done.
Keep up the good work.

Will

Simon take your time if you do plank and all will work out well.
Rick

Plenty more elbow grease required Sifi but she is coming along nicely.
Keep up the good work.

Martin555.

Big job ahead well done.Looks good so far.
Rick

"Wife’s had me painting the Garage today 🙄 "
Good practise Simon 👍😉
So far so good, at least you're getting through the elbow grease part.
Heading towards the fun part - Masking 🤔 but then Pssst psst psst new colour spraying.
Yeee Haaa! 😁
Patience is a virtue - AND a definite asset when restoring vintage wooden model boats!
Ask me how I know 😁 then ask Colin 😂🤣
Cheers, Doug 😎

That looks like a nice solid and quite clean example you've bought there. Mine had delamination of some bulkheads, not too bad a job to fix though.
What's the plans regarding propulsion, electric, or i.c?

That's a good start to your project, doesn't look like there's any delamination so far and the interior is too clean to have had a diesel or glowplug engine so I think she had a large water cooled electric motor.
Depending on the motor and esc you decide to fit the water pickup and outlet may be useful. I often use water cooled excess.
Keep it up shipmate, cheers Colin.

Good start getting things apart and ready for sanding.For me taking on a refit job can be more work than starting from new non the less it is satisfying when done. Enjoy the process keep us updated .
Rick

Hi Simon.
Well done.your into the blog section.
Good to see some interior pictures.
You clearly have a good deal of space to play with.
Clearly the boat was fitted with a non electric motor as we can see the water cooling intake behind where the old prop was.
You have a lot of remedial work to do by the look of things to make good after removing the water intake etc.
Looking forward to the next update,but this is a lovely project.
Regards Bill.