Have had quite a bit on this past few days what with work, going up to Hull to see daughter and grandson, work and stuff around the house and garden to do, however…..

Before going away I gave the outside of the hull another coat of Eze-Kote and the insides a sloshing of resin to seal everything up water tight.

I then set about installing the motor, ESC, rudder servo and water pick up plumbing. All nice and tidy and all working in the correct direction ect..

Today I did a bit more to the deck planking using photos from the interweb as reference and if I’m honest, using bass wood for the planks and mahogany strip for the caulking it looks quite effective after trimming and sanding. The stern planking has a little more to be done before I start up the sides leading to the bow where there will be quite a bit of work to get it right.

Lastly, I’ve added a picture of the Bridlington Tamar class lifeboat from the weekend. Why? Because I’ve managed to get hold of a Model Slipway Tamar kit unstarted and that will be next on the building board…..

This weekend has seen good progress, but that’s enough now as I have to fulfill husband duties….

I have finished the chine and spray rails following the same method as before, but found the second half a little quicker as I’d found a process that worked. Once all the rails were fitted, they were given a final sand to ensure that all curves were even and some very tiny amounts of filler where needed. Once all was good, any bare wood was given a further coat of Eze-Kote to seal them in.

Question if I may? Will I be able to put a coat of finishing resin over the top of the Eze-Kote for a hard outer coat and possibly after wet n dry sanding, a better coat for painting without any undue reaction? Answers on a postcard too…..

I have made a brass water inlet pick up in a similar fashion to how Rob made his for his pilot boat. Not having a lathe I placed a brass nut on a screw into my drill bit, spun it up and filed it round and soldered it to the brass tube. I heated the brass tube prior to bending, cut it then soldered the brass nut on and epoxied the piece into the hull. Once set I soldered on a brass nut on the inside and a further coat of epoxy to confirm seal. The whole hull is due a coat of resin inside followed by silver paint, so all should be waterproof in the end.

Last job was to confirm the propshaft was exactly inline with the motor coupling using my trusty solid coupling adaptor and also drilled a hole for the oiler.

That will be it until Thursday when I shall getting all the sealing coats inside and out done, servo mount, rx mount, esc mount and other internal jobs…..

Next job was to start preparing and installing the important chine and spray rails which are vital to the boats performance. They also add some character and look pretty cool too!

The chine rails are a piece of 1100mm 6.5mmx5mm bass word with one edge planned and sanded to a curve and run down the side of the hull from stern to bow. Once prepared, I marked the position on the hull with pencil using the measurements given in the instructions then with thick cyano and kicker glued it to the hull starting at the stern. This was a nice tight fit and only required a smidge of filler in a couple of spots to blend in.

The spray rails of which there will be 6 in total, 3 either side of the keel are 5mm square bass wood curved on 2 edges to form a half circle. Simple job with careful use of the razor plane to take the corners off then sand paper to finish. Again the position was marked on the bottom of the hull for the first piece 35mm down from the keel and glued in the same fashion as the chine. The next 2 rails were fitted exactly the same way with 35mm separation and finished at the bow with that characteristic curve previously marked to avoid errors.

Fitting those rails to one side has taken most of the day, I shall finish the other side tomorrow. The last job of the day and this is my impatience showing, I thought I’d stick a couple of pieces of deck wood planking and caulking towards the stern to see if I liked the result. Happy to say I do, but will not do anymore until the hull is complete and any further resin sealing is done to prevent errant splashes running the deck planks!

Taking advantage of the weather, managed to get out into the sunshine and push forward.

First job was to shape and sand the balsa nose blocks previously fitted and this was followed with P38 filler in any areas that need it. Once set the whole hull was sanded with various grades of sandpaper until all was perfectly smooth. Prior to fitting the cloth, I gave the hull a wipe with Panel Prep spray and a lint free cloth to ensure it was ready.

Prior to laying the first sheet of 48gram cloth, I gave the hull a thinned coat of eze-kote and once dry a light sand and another spray of panel prep. I then cut the cloth oversized before laying on a layer of straight eze-kote with a soft 3” brush. This is my first time using eze-kote and as much as it’s easy to use, it sets fast, so on a large model like this you have to work fast! Once satisfied that the cloth was glued on in all areas, this was left to set for an hour before a light sand and a second coat.

I shall leave the hull overnight before putting on the transom cloth tomorrow or friday.

Other jobs done today have included cutting the slot for the P-frame propshaft support and making the stand from good old B&Q pvc pipe.

The kit comes with a pre-printed deck of ply which I will not be using. Whilst it shows the distinct curved planking as fitted to the full size, I feel that at this scale I have no option but to plank the hull.

I had some off cuts of 1.5mx8mm strip wood which when stained and with 1mm lime in between will look much better than the pre-printed affair. I’ve made up a test piece to see what it turned out like and gave it a coat of satin yacht varnish. I doubt I will use yacht varnish on this model as to be honest I hate the stuff! It takes days to dry properly at tracking dust and yellows with age. I will probably give the deck coats of Ronseal exterior varnish which drys in hours unless of course you guys have any better ideas?

More friday……

The last of days excellent weather has given me plenty of time to get outside and press on….

The first job was to sand, seal, spray paint and lacquer the motor mount, which now has the motor fitted and I consider finished and ready to install.

After that I prepared and shaped the stern of th3 boat to receive the transom ply sheet. Prior to fitting that sheet, I fitted 2 water cooling outlets above the guestimated waterline which were sealed with epoxy and had the tubing fitted as it will be nigh on impossible to fit after. The transom sheet was then glued on and taped into position to be left overnight to set.

Whist waiting for the transom to set, I painted in some finishing resin inside the hull into the parts that will be impossible to reach once the deck is on. I will give the internals another full coat of resin followed by a coat of Hammerite silver paint in due course.

The only job today after work was to glue and fit the false deck and tape, clamp and weight it into position making sure that contact points were glued.

That will be it until Wednesday when I will start sanding and filling the the hull ready to cloth along with making the motor mount plate, esc, Rx and servo mount……

Good day in the sunshine! First job this morning was to make sure that all the previous sheeting and chine rails were shaped and sanded ready to receive the last side sheet. Last night I prepared the last side sheet by soaking the curved bow end in boiling hot water in a baking tray on the cooker and then when pliable, curved it round a Halfords spray can and taped overnight to dry the curve in.

Once happy that everything was ready to receive the sheet, I again marked the areas which would be glued on the sheet, chines and any other glue points. Again the sheet was fitted using contact adhesive less the curved bow section which was glued with medium and thick cyano and kicker. Within a few minutes, the sheet was in position hopefully never to part company and all glue joints were reinforced with PVA and in some areas epoxy for belt and braces. This will all be left overnight before shaping and sanding.

Other jobs was to fit the 3 laminations of balsa sheet which form a curved base (when shaped) for the false deck at the transom and also increase the glue area for the transom sheet which hopefully will be fitted tomorrow after the rear end of the boat has been shaped ready to receive it.

I also fitted the 2 rough shaped balsa blocks at the bow which when shaped, sanded and filled will form that nice curved bow the Huntsman is famous for. That area will need quite a bit of work to get it ready for the cloth to be applied to the hull, but will be worth the graft.

Before I fit the transom sheet I plan on marking tHe water line on it so that I can gauge where I am going to have the twin water cooling outlets which I need to fit prior to fitting the sheet. If I don’t, it will be nigh on impossible to fit the tubing later as that area is just about impossible to reach from inside the hull once the transom is fitted.

See you tomorrow…..

So, I managed to sneak the second bottom sheet on last night before bed giving that overnight to set.

This morning I trimmed, shaped and sanded the bottom sheets ready to receive the dreaded side sheets. Before anything else, I filed out the prop shaft exit and the hole leading to the rudder tube and check them in place for a good fit. One thing I have ordered today is a brass p-frame bracket as the prop shaft is only 6.30mm dia and would be very vulnerable to damage or bending if left hanging out in the breeze as you can see in the picture!

Having re-read the instructions, it recommended using contact adhesive to bond the sheets to the frames, ok, I’ll give that a go! First of all though, as recommended I added some doublers to the frames to give the sheeting more to grab onto and then set about marking the sheet we’re it was to make contact with the frames. I then put a coat of contact adhesive on all the frames except the curved front 2 and the chines and the marked side sheet. Leaving this for 10 minutes gave me a chance to grab the clamp box ready to bond the sheet on. And bond it did! You only get one shot, so with a couple of alignment marks I’d made, I offered up the sheet to the frames and started to bond and clamp it.

The instructions recommended using cyano and kicker for the curved formers and front chines and with a bit of brute force and muscle power, managed to get the curved parts bonded. I left the whole lot a couple of hours to set and then smeared Gorilla PVA into all the joints for added strength.

I’m now at a point we’re I need a break, so as I’m back at work tomorrow and Friday, I shall leave the final sheet and transom sheet until the weekend. Once they are on, it’s a case of adding the front balsa blocks followed by sanding, filler, more sanding before adding the false deck and getting ready to glass cloth.

See you at the weekend……..

Last night after work, I set about shaping and glueing the transom supports which consisted of 8 pieces. All that was required was a bevel sanded where the pieces met the keel, then glued and clamped and let to set overnight.

Today’s task was the prepare the bulkheads and keel ect in readiness for the hull sheeting. Shaping the chines and keel was easy enough to achieve with the razor plane, dremel sanding drum and finally the sanding block although quite time consuming but reasonably pleasant in the sunshine!

Then it was onto the first of the sheets which is a job that fills me with utter hatred! I don’t know why, but it’s always a battle to get them fitted well to all the bulkheads ect. According to the instructions, the sheets are fitted bottom of hull. First and then the side pieces. Also according to the instructions it states that the side sheets are harder to fit, great, the bottom ones are hard enough!

I test fitted the first sheet to make sure it was touching all the right parts and then did a practice run with the clamps, all seemed reasonably good. I then followed up with PVA to all the contact parts on the keel and put on the first sheet quickly clamping with as many clamps as possible to keep it in position and also checking to make sure the hull is still squared. I drew lines on the sheet where the bulkheads are running underneath and with my trusty pin pusher and 12mm brass nails, pushed them into the sheet and into the bulkheads to make sure they were contacting the curved bulkheads towards the bow. It’s a bit trial and error with the pin pusher, some hit, some don’t but once you’ve got enough into the sheet over the bulkheads, they ,work. Once happy that all the wood was contacting we’re needed, I ran a bead of PVA into all the joints with a mark 1 finger and will now leave this to set over night before sheet 2 tomorrow….

I have managed to achieve what I set out to do today before the start of a certain footie match this evening!

First job having glued up all the keel parts yesterday was to check the prop shaft passed through its slot ok and to to drill out the hole for the rudder post, easy enough. Once done, I cleaned out with the files, the slots on the keel and the bulk heads before fitting the keel to the models frames, checking for true on every angle possible before again painting in part diluted gorilla PVA glue into all the joints and giving a second coat to other joints already glued.

After lunch I was in the position to start fitting the chine rails. There are 2 obechi rails each side of the hull and each chine is made of 2 strips to aid bending. Clamps are good for a lot of things, but I’ve always struggled in the past to get clamps on to chines without them pinging off at the wrong moment! What I do now is to use thick cyano for the first run and then using a pin pusher and 12mm brass nails left over from model display ships, pin the chine at each point it touches a bulkhead. Works every time!

I gave that an hour to really set (distracted my impatience by cutting the grass!)before adding the second runs with PVA and every clamp I have (must get more, you can never have enough!). Then finally, again made sure everything was square and true before leaving to set. At this point, if we are out of square, it will be a lot harder to straighten although it can be done when we sheet the hull, although I’d rather avoid it!

That’s it until Tuesday when I will fit the transom supports and start sheeting….

So, starting on the huge Huntsman initially starting with preparing all the laser cut parts that make up the keel and bulkheads. All parts required were cut from the sheets and marked up to avoid mistakes later. Due to the quality of the SLEC laser cutting, the parts required minimal preparation, with a gentle sand both sides of each part and ensuring the cut lugs were sanded flush. One other thing I did which I feel is important for a good fit was to square file the round slots so that when the bulkheads were pushed onto their side former sheets they sat true. Once happy all parts were prepared properly and after a “Dry no glue fit” to make sure everything was right I started gluing the bulkheads onto the side sheets and also bonded the 6.5mm square hardwood rails to formers and side sheets. Everything was initially tacked with cyano then with the false deck fitted (not glued at this stage, that comes much later) I then went round each joint with slightly thinned waterproof PVA with a brush giving it’s first coat of glue. I will give all joints a second coat tomorrow.

At this point, I decided to make up the motor mount as I intend to fit the propshaft earlier in the build than described in the destructions. The motor mount is again a laser cut affair and will be the perfect fit for my motor as the already drilled holes for the mount mount plate are perfectly aligned.

Last job was to prepare all the parts for the keel which includes several doublers for the rudder post and propshaft guide slot. The instructions stated that the propshaft slot is drilled once all the doublers are fitted, however I decided for ease and accuracy that I would fit the 2 doublers on one side of the main keel, add the second keel layer than cut out with the dremel 2x pieces inside the propshaft channel that are there to make sure that the keel stays inline when fitting the doublers. Once I did that, I checked the propshaft fitted ok and then added the remaining doublers, clamped it and that’s to be left overnight for a solid bond.

More tomorrow…..