I was initially going to post a reply, but didn’t, because the subject had gone into steam engines. This is a subject where I have little knowledge, except for building a Midwest single cylinder engine for a yet to be built steam launch.

But every time I log in, the comment template for this thread keeps coming up.

Just to say that I agree regarding the ‘big box stores.’ Lowes, here in the states will do a match and sell a small sample for a very reasonable price.

Hi Again. As requested by Gary. Some pics of the engine.

Spot on Gary!
Trev

Part Two, there is three tappings, gas in from gas canister, gas out to burner, and boiler steam pressure in from boiler. Hopefully, you have a spare steam tapping on the top of your boiler, if not cut the pipe to the steam engine and fit a tee piece, or fit a small manifold to the existing tapping. If you are running at scale speed with two burners working you are going to blow the pressure valve, which is the last thing you want, and this is where your pressure valve comes in and turns the gas down to a pilot flame. Something to think about anyway. Regards, Gary. (PS. Congratulations on the Stuart Turner three-cylinder compound engine, now that is what I call a project and a very enjoyable one at that.)

Hi Murlough, I have finally found the information for you, as I had problems trying to remember the name, which is MICROCOSM and you will find them on eBay, there is a load of very well made fittings which you won't find anywhere else, do not be put off by the fact they are Chinese. I have used the gas regulators in three of my working steamboats and they definitely help to conserve both gas and water, and there are two types manual and automatic. I would recommend the manual valve as you can mount this upright and the control knob is at the top, the automatic valve needs to be laid down and the adjustment is in the middle and not easy to get at access-wise. P5 is the auto press. reg. and costs £78.00. P5B is the manual press. reg. and costs £63.00, looking on the bright side the postage is free.

Brilliant idea with the silicone tube. I had been sort of planning copper pipe runs with custom made drain cocks somewhat like loco ones with lever actuators I could gang together..
This automatic gizmo boiler controls sounds interesting but I was trying to keep the boat simple. However it would be good if you could put me in the way of any links to the info.
Have a look on Stuart Turners website for more tech stuff on the engine. If you have another look at the engine pic I posted you will see the edge of a white cardboard box. It contains a set of Stuart Turners Triple Expansion Engine that I took out a second mortgage to buy. Prob going to take me 2 years to build it ..

Hi Murlough, well that was a bit of a surprise and a shock to the system to learn that your engine is ONE INCH bore times two, and a 5" diameter boiler into the bargain. I am now aware that that is not a small bath but it is a large boat, and I am guessing between four to five feet of it? I think you have a reasonable set up there and a very powerful boat into the bargain. It might make a degree of sense to think about fitting an automatic gas regulator that will monitor boiler pressure and switch to a pilot flame say at 40 PSI or whatever setting you chose. This will save on water and improve your running time. I can't see any problem with regard to piping the drain cocks into the separator, you could use silicone tubing with a tee piece between the two cylinders. Looking forward to seeing some more photos of that very interesting engine. Regards, Gary.

The launch engine is 1" bore and 7/8" stroke x 2. I have run it on the boiler in the picture that came from Pendle Steam Boilers who are just down the road from me. It is 5" diameter with 2 burners.
It ran ok on test and I only want it to run at a realistic rpm of about 120 rpm just like a real un.
Am still trying to find some pictures that I took of the build.
One other thing that you may be able to answer is, Can the cylinder drain cocks be fitted with pipes to direct the gunge that comes out of them directly into the oil separator.?

Hi Merlough, and having just consulted your first photos, yes the boiler does look on the small side considering the size of the engine, what size is the engine bore and what are the dimensions of the boiler? I normally run a 1/2" bore twin on a 3 1/2" x 6" boiler and that will run for twenty to twenty-five minutes none stop. You definitely need a gas cut-off valve to be on the safe side in case you do run out of water. A boiler feed pump and a bypass valve is the answer to this problem. Or you could go electronic and fit a water level switch wired up to a battery-powered pump motor. I promise that whatever else happens you will not get bored after ten minutes. Regards, Gary.

I will take up the advice about a servo gas valve , this is something I had not thought of. My other dilemma is -- should I build a boiler feed pump and water tank.? As I see it the boat will only probably be sailed for a max of 10 minutes before I get bored with it,.
I think starting with a full boiler should easily give me that duration. Should it????. Its a very steam hungry engine. I will gather some build pictures and post them later.

I built this Victoria sailboat over Covid. It’s at done house in LA. We got caught there day before LA was closed. Stayed 6 months n did RV back to Massachusetts. I have 2.5 ghz radio and big sail Servo in it. Tested in pool. I’m back out in LA so maybe Monday hit the Rc hobby shop called Ron’s in Glendale. Paint is the spray Acrylic for plastics. Coated with clear. Hull is plastic so my CA was put on to attach deck too thick. It melted plastic. I was going to fill in but said not worth the effort it doesn’t leak.

Thank you for that and very much appreciated, a few more of the same would not go amiss. That is a really nice-looking engine, pleasantly complex, and very interesting. A great bit of engineering there, and a very nice shiny rotary disc valve. I was under the illusion that the ST Launch engine was a two-cylinder compound engine, maybe I was wrong. Regards, Gary.

Hi Derek,

That's a very nice looking engine, well done.

One thing I would recommend is to fit a servo actuated gas shut off valve.

Have you thought about doing a build log?

Cheers,
Stephen.

Thanks for all the advice folks. I had never thought of BBQ paint. I see Screwfix have it along with Red Oxide. May well get a tin of each and give it a go,
In answer to Gary`s post the engine is a ST Launch that I made about 30 years ago but have spent a lot of lockdown time making reversing gear for it.
As its my first steam boat I am feeling my way a bit but have just made a regulator and intend to start the piping soon.

Nice Looking!
Looking forward to seeing her underway👍
Trev

Hello Greg!
Now I know a bit more about the shrimp boats, I see I never stopped learning!!
thanks! 👍👍👍
Greats Michel-Claude

The protection plating is very typical on lobster and crab fishing boats, always located where the hydraulic hauler lands the pots against the side of the boat. Some boats have thick built-up fiberglass in that area, but most use sheet Stainless Steel or Aluminum.
See photo of typical Atlantic Canada lobster boat for reference.

Forgive me for this Greg, but I have got to ask, are the two plates amidship the result of a passing torpedo accident? Sorry, a strange sense of humour which comes with age. Regards, a great-looking model you have there. Gary.

This is the look of Spray Cans of Satin White, saying grey for Decks, and Satin Black on this lobster Boat i am finishing now.

I'll agree with the others concerning the matte/flat colors. My only other suggestion would be to visit a big box store that will mix color samples of house paint. (Here in the US, a sample large enough to paint a large hull twice runs about $4.00 US.) I've recently painted a tug with acrylic paints by brush in a very dark - nearly black - brown color called "Fired Earth ". It looks like a sun faded, salt water abused black. These stores have racks of color sample cards and in them you can find any color under the sun. One of the side benefits of matte paint is touch up is easy, brush strokes don't show, and since the model won't live in the water full time, the acrylic stands up very well.
The deckhouse could also be a matte color.
The "Hot Rod" red primer is good for the bottom as mentioned, as well as a verdigris (blue/green color) which would have been a copper-ladened coating to discourage marine growth.

Hi Derek,
I would agree with Gary and Greg about the colors and steer away from gloss finishes, matt or satin are the go in my opinion.

Rattle cans will do if you don't have spray equipment and are comfortable using them.

As Gary said it would be great to see more information about your creation.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Looking good.
My opinion, first is to never use a gloss paint finish on any scale model. It makes them look like plastic toys.
I would suggest using spray bombs( rattle cans) of Flat Or Satin finish BBQ paint for the black, and Red Oxide Primer to simulate the under-water Anti fouling paint.

Hi Murlough, and very refreshing to find a model that actually contains a gas-fired boiler and a slide valve twin steam engine. That is either a very small (domestic test tank,) or a very large model boat, you have there. With regard to colours, a satin black above the water line and red oxide or (primer) below, seems to be the most popular choice. I would be very, very, interested in seeing more photos of the steam plant and set up, and maybe a few words of wisdom on the whys and wherefores with regard to your steam plant and what it contains? Regards, Gary.