Would like to thank all the great guys who posted fantastic advice and comments on the subject... I have decided to simply temporarily put a face flannel under the prop shaft inboard and remove it after sailing to wring out. Also prior to sailing grease both ends a lot to limit ingress... A model boat shop has offered to fix it but until finances, time and travel allow me to take her there, this shall have to suffice....To all of you, Thank You..

Ok shall send soon as I get back from work.

Gary, I figured under the aft hatch is where the receiver and rudder servo is located. Please send us all a photo of the area with hatch open.

Generally, a rudder is removable after removing a set screw of the control arm that connects to the servo.

Send us a couple photos so we can walk you through the simple procedure and by doing so, you will be greasing the rudder shaft too.

Ron

Thank You so much for that great advice.. Gonna go for it and keep you posted.

It would seem that the use of araldite on the propeller and u-joint doesn’t give you many options. The suggestion of using some form of sealant on the wood in and around the area where water seeps in is a good one, but water will find its way into anywhere.
It’s a real shame and it looks a good boat from the pictures provided.
The only suggestion I could make would be
- undo the grub screw at the motor end (if not glued) of the u joint
- undo the screws holding the motor to the engine mount and remove the motor
- the brass collar and red plastic part of the u joint could now be removed leaving just the brass collar attached to the prop shaft
- put a spanner or grips on the brass collar and put some protection over the propellor and put mole grips or something similar over it. Then carefully try the break the glue hold by twisting the brass collar clockwise and the prop end anti clockwise then the opposite - small turns at a time
- a couple of things could happen here either the prop will come loose - bonus as now more surface to grip direct onto shaft. Or the shaft will turn inside the brass collar and can then be set up to reduce the clearance issue have at prop end - even better
- the down side could be the outer shaft tube could rotate and break the glue seal that goes through the hull 🙄
- if the shaft moves and comes away from the brass collar just buy a new u joint from e bay
- hopefully the shaft and propellor have survived and can be reused. If not then more spending or I may have a spare shaft that may fit and would happily send it you
- then it’s just setting up the propellor clearance to the outer shaft tube to achieve a minimum clearance of 5thou and this will then stop water ingress

It may sound daunting but I removed my entire outer shaft tube and refitted it with the help and guidance of people on this forum. I like you don’t have a clue but these guys give you the confidence to give it a go 👍
Also you’ve given me the bug to restart my 10 year ongoing project 😆

Gary,
Your u-joint is held on with an Allen head screw. I'm not sure if it is metric, probably, or SAE, ut an Allen wench should take it out. You should be able to remove the joint then. If you can then another possible remidy would be to fit a shug fitting o-ring over the shaft and then fit a nylon washer, you could fit washers on both sides of the o-ring, if tere is room to do so. Replace t he u-joint and leakage should be signoficantly reduced.
If you can not do any of the sugesttions so far, then I would allow the boat to dry out completely and then epoxy coat the areas subject to collecting water. Then I would buy a syringe, about a foot of tubing to fit the syringe and aybe a piece of brass tubing to fit the end. Then you can draw out any water quickly and easily.
Cheers

Hello the hatch covers the radio and rudder assembly and is separate from the propulsion system..I am at work now so shall post pic later.

Hi garyp
After your comment "there isnt one around where I live.. I dont have the tools, expertise or time to attempt this myself." I believe you should follow your own advice and just sail and drain once a week. You have not said where you sail your model but if it is with a model boat club they may be able to help. I'm sure we all wish to help but you need some local hands on experience. I hope you enjoy sailing your model in the meantime.
Good sailing
dave976

I see a small wing nut on the rear hatch. Are you able to open the rear hatch? If so take a photo and post it please.

Locktite can be released by the application of gentle heat to the joint. Usual precautions apply.