Hi Fulvio,
" is not clear for me if is better utilize LEDS or light "
Scroll right down to the first answer to your query and you will see that Graham 93 already listed the advantages of LEDs over incandescent lamps (bulbs).

"can I use in the same group led and lights? "
If you mean the 6V bulbs that you have from Krick, and working on a 6V battery, then yes.
BUT; remember each bulb will draw 50mA from your battery (checked on the Krick website), this is more then twice what most LEDs will draw. E.g. 10 bulbs draw 500mA, 10 LEDs draw ~250mA.
Also consider that your bulbs are less efficient; more heat is produced with bulbs than light for each watt consumed. At 6V your bulbs consume 300mW (6x50/1000).
Approx 60% (at least) of that goes as heat, i.e. ~180mW, max 120W light.
In contrast, 'standard' 3mm or 5mm LEDs are approx 90+% efficient.
(Not forgetting the power lost in the dropping resistor! V=IxR, P=IxV 😉)
LEDs waste much less power as heat and live much much longer.

I have a long term test running of an LED illuminated polar bear, so far 10 years (87,600 hours) with no failures😀 Far exceeding the manufacture's spec of 10,000 hours😀
But since you already have the Krick 6V bulbs ...!
Cheers, Doug😎
BTW Back in the days before cheap multi-colour LEDs were available to modellers I used clear (white) bulbs but coloured them as required (red, green, yellow) with glass paint available from craft shops.

Doug good evening but just to understand at the end of all our discussion is not clear for me if is better utilize LEDS or light maybe Leds has long live more than lights? And can I use in the same group led and lights?

Doug good morning
Your explanation is cristal thanks job done.
Just one more topic. Is possible on the same group of lights utilize LEDS and Lights? Or is better keep separate Leds from Lights?
Thanks

Hi Fulmic,
If you use the Krick Duo Memory Switch which I suggested you DO NOT NEED ANOTHER SWITCH!!😀 Save your big 20A switch for another project where you need such power. 20A is 100 times😮 the current you need for your LED circuits.

Connection diagram for the Duo Switch attached.
One of your LED circuits goes to output pins A & B, the other one to pins C & D. Make sure to get the polarity (+ & -) right!
The switch works like this-
At the TX you need a three way switch (ON/OFF/ON) or a spare proportional control, e.g. stick or pot. To find out which channel is assigned to the 3 way switch at the TX check the manual or simply plug servos into channels 5 & 6 and see which one reacts to the TX switch.
To switch ON circuit AB push the switch or stick UP and back to the centre OFF position. The circuit will switch on and stay on. To switch OFF just repeat the above procedure.
Similarly, to switch on circuit CD pull the switch or stick down and return to centre. Repeat to switch off.

Each circuit can handle 1.5A, much more than you need. You could run a string of lights all round the deck😁💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡💡
Tutto chiaro?
Ciao, Doug😎

Doug what do you think that if i utilize a switch as per your specifications and the second one that i need for the second group of leds i utilize the switch that i attach here the picture? i used this for a brush motor for a air model time ago. He get signal from RX and then has the direct connection with battery and connection with possible electrical motor that in this case i connect with second group of leds. I ask you because at least i re utilize this switch other way i do not use any more. Thanks

Doug is correct and I stand corrected on my comments about the receiver and BAC. Brain fart on my part

Doug good morning
Clear the concept of the 2 switch independently for the 2 groups of LED.
Or even better the switch that you suggest to me 1 switch for 2 groups.
Now just to be sure
The LEDS of one group have to be connect between them in Parallel?
Moreover i understood well that finally is more reliable utilize LEDS with resistor than Lights at 6V? is this correct?
Thanks

Wow!
That's some well equipped and organised workshop😮 I'm jealous!
Looks like you have your own Airforce as well.

Yes you do need one of those switches for each group of LEDs.
There are 2 function versions to work off one RX channel available, e.g. from Krick Germany, link shows their dual switch version with memory - as shown in Bombero's wiring diagram - but what you showed is a single function type, so you will need 2 channels at the RX.
Cheers, Doug😎

https://www.krickshop.de/Elektronik-Motoren/RC-Fernsteuerungen-Zubehoer/Elektron

Doug thanks for comments.
In the same time I sent you few pictures of my laboratory that as you know is dedicated for airplanes and now few boats just to enjoy.
In the same time just to be sure you. I fiera me that I need to switch one for each group of lights?
Thanks

Hi Fulmic,
I agree with Dave.
Yes that's the one we mean, with the 'Power In' connection, 3rd wire.
Try to get the 4A version and save €2.😉
I note that the maker is 'elechawk'.
330 seems to be the number of buyers who have commented on the unit, given it stars!

BTW Your model looks great, excellent work👍
I envy the space you have in your workshop!!
Cheers, Doug😎