Never had a problem with direct drives. All of my boats have them. This 6 foot tanker is only driving a 2 inch prop and with the larger motor I recommended I don't see any problem. Just my opinion.
Lew
Florida, USA

Lew, the direct drive solution will put a strain on the motor whereas if he uses a 1:2 or 1:5 the strain is absorbed in the gears. This is why I don’t use direct drive in my tugboats. On a model of 6’ and swinging a 4 bladed wheel it is especially wise to use gearing in my opinion.

Helpfull insight. I always wondered how scale speed (like modeltrains) is converted to replicate
from the original

There is a very big difference between the speed (RPM) of a real prop and a model prop for ships. Even at a 1:50 ratio it will be too slow. A 1:1 should work fine, at most a 1:2 could be used. I would stick with a direct drive and control the speed with the RC electronics.
Lew
Florida, USA

Thanks for your comments and ESC advice, LewZ and RodC. Certainly very helpful.
I have had no prior experience with speed in relation to prop revolutions or size. The prop size is to scale 1:150. I realize the speed may be slow when I decided on the 90rpm but I took my guidance from the prop speed of abt. 110rpm of the original. I'll see once the model will go on trials. If too slow I probably will swap out to the 1:50 geared and run-on reduced throttle.

5cm diameter prop on a 6foot tanker? That is merely a 2" prop. At 90rpm there won't be much thrust

JockScott:

I found this among the specs on the motor you described. Technical data: Gear ratio 150:1; Voltage range 4.8 - 14.4V; Power consumption at 12V approx. 13,400 rpm, 2.95A at maximum efficiency.

So, it looks like your top speed (which will likely vary considerably with other factors) about 89RPM at 12V (about 1-1/2 revs per second). That's pretty slow barely moving, if at all for a 6 foot boat.

As for the ESC, the choice is yours, most "average" ESCs will handle the current, and most, but not all, will handle the voltage. Many ESCs will have options for F/B/R, some fixed, but many can be set by the user.

Check your thoughts on the need for a 1:150 geared motor to run your tanker. As I am strictly scale and not much need for speed I stick with the cheap-o brushed motors in the $5-15.00 (US) range .

You might look at this: RS775PH High Power DC Motor, DC 12V-24V 12,000 RPM @ 24V Large Torque Motor. This would be about 6,000 RPM @ 12V, probably a good choice for your tanker (direct drive, set motor limits on your transmitter). $16.99(US) on Amazon.

Lew
Florida, USA
https://www.amazon.com/Power-12V-24V-Torque-Bearing-Driver/dp/B086Z47DLJ/ref=asc_df_B086Z47DLJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=509456383135&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5427661659655405098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012149&hvtargid=pla-1200451744728&psc=1

Not to derail any dialogue on a specific subject. To start, I am a total novice if it comes to RC operations.
I have bought the Krick MaxGear 1:150 motor V12 for my 6ft tanker project driving a 5cm Dia prop. I have been given a Futuba Transmitter/receiver running on 6V. What are my choices for an ESC for basic functions: variable speed forward/reverse? I would like to power the motor with a Lead/acid battery.

Thank you very much DG, for your response and availability.

I follow you because I like your contributions on various topics.

When I finish the model I'm updating you on, I wanted to activate a few more controls, provided that space and weight allow it, so I'll ask you some specific questions.
On the receiver I have five free channels that I would like to exploit in some way.
In the meantime I will be careful to understand as much as possible from your speeches and perhaps, as you say, from some video tutorials. On videos my problem is understanding English, because if it is written I can translate it calmly but if it is oral I have difficulty understanding everything. I should ask my son for help.

Alessandro, thanks for following me and I will help you whenever I am able...

Multi-channel RC transmitters of more that 4 channels generally have a stick, a slider or rotary control for each of the physical channels available.. When you get up to around 8 channels you can run out of room on the transmitter itself to control this capacity, so the remainder are assigned as 'virtual' or 'digital' channels. This means, the receiver may have a physical socket for a servo or switch for each of these channels, but these devices are controlled through a software function or 'mixer function' configured in the transmitter which 'blends' the motion of a number of channels together..

** (In an Sbus (serial bus) receiver setup, the SERVOS will be soft configured with a port address (channel number) and all connect to 1 socket on the receiver with a 'Daisy Chain' or data bus similar to PC USB hub device)

I hope this explains a little how all the channels can be controlled when you get beyond 4!

Multi-channel Transmitters have become very complex and are quite difficult to fully understand now. It generally takes quite a time to get to grips with them on a workbench with servos plugged into each port to help you visualise what you are doing to the config as you move all the sticks, sliders and knobs about... To further complicate the situation, many transmitters now have telemetry channels which read back some functions from the model to the transmitter and display this data in real time.....

There are many tutorials on these subjects online and I would suggest you take a look at the basic stuff first, maybe settle on one Manufacturer and work through a particular device within your budget. Another approach is to find out the most popular RC supplier in your local club and research just that one. Other members around you with the same kit will be invaluable during your learning curve.

DG

Hi Dgoos999

You wrote: "I don't have much experience on boat/marine ECU's but I do know Helicopter ones!!"

I have to remember this because I will need your advice and help.

RC helicopter and airplane pilots, in general, with some exceptions, know radio controls very well, much better than naval ones.
I know very little about my two radio controls.
Let's forget about one, because it only has two channels and I bought it in the store before discovering the internet.
The other has nine channels and I know very few functions, furthermore I only know how to use the first four channels, those of the sticks.
I know I'm very ignorant about this.
When the time comes I will ask you for a lot of information, from anyone who will be kind enough to give it to me.

Hi Doogal..

You asked.... "Is there a way to reset an esc or is there something else to make it bind again. Puzzled as never had this issue before and rc electronics are a weak point."

I don't have much experience on boat/marine ECU's but I do know Helicopter ones!!

New ECS's don't have a 'reboot' function anymore. The cheaper ones do this now every time you apply power to them. You leave the Throttle stick at Low or at Neutral and they beep accepting this as your current config! Some have a 'soft configuration' where, for example you power them on with the Throttle stick at max (or some other Throttle stick dance) and then they go through a reset/configuration routine. But you need to check these with the user instructions that come with the ECU..

New into Boating, I've been looking for an ECU without a Brake (because I don't want to risk spinning the Prop off!) and without reverse as my transmitters don't have this stick function on them. (Heli's don't need a reverse! or have a fixed 'Neutral' position).. I need an ECU that gives me full throttle stick motion for forward, and I'll use a second Tx channel to switch relays to reverse the motor polarity for rearward movement...

So I have gone for the Hobbywing Eagle (30A) which is a brushed Aero ECU where I can completely disable the Brake function and I get full throttle stick motion. So far this is the only ECU I can find that a) I can afford it and b) works as I want it..

I hope this helps a little.

DG

Hobbywing work as described, are well priced and the instructions make sense from what I have discovered.. Pay a little more for them and buy from a known supplier!!

DG

I just checked, there are lots of hobbywing products on the Canadian Amazon website. I have bought a number of the much cheaper, no name ESC but will only be using hobbywing here on in. Once bitten, twice shy

Hi everyone.
Your messages scared me quite a bit.

I, the only quality ESC, even if not too expensive, don't put it on ships but keep it in a chest, protected by steel chains and padlocks, as if it were a jewel, ahahahahah.
The ones I use on RC models are even cheaper so I'm afraid they will leave me soon.
At this point, at least I'm psychologically prepared.

Sorry Chris if I make you repeat things but I'm not sure if I understood correctly: You had two and they both broke and only one of them broke?

With the advice you have received so far you will surely have established that the ESC is broken beyond repair, so it seems pointless to say anything else on my part.
Nothing that could be useful to you.

You will have already verified that it is the entire ESC that is damaged and not just the internal BEC.
If you want, recover the switch before throwing the ESC in the garbage, maybe it works well and you can use it.

I saw the photo, unfortunately you can't see the components, everything is hidden, not even the capacitors. By looking at the tracks and electronic components, you can sometimes already understand which one is damaged.
Of course, in this case no repairs are worth it, but a photo of the "autopsy" examination before the final burial, if it could be dismantled, could serve as an information database.

PhilH, et al.,
True, and most/all of us have experienced remote issues on the water.
Lew
Florida,
USA

Hi I am one of the converted it is really not worth taking a risk someone said to me you pay a lot of money for boat weather it's a kit or scratch built and then we scrimp to put electronics in them I use to be tight, but it's is knowing when to save and when to spend.

Blast I bought one for my Huntsman, not used it yet, I suppose a potential 8 months it just about ok.......

Hi Chris.
Sorry for delay.
Don’t know that type by looks but it doesn’t sound good as others have said.
I do have a couple of similar ones that touch wood are ok🤞,but normally stick to branded units with back up.Sorry can’t solve the problem.
Regards
Bill

Hi I had very similar as those kept messing about so changed to hobbywing not that dear really well worth the extra to get one the works, I even have a double one that runs two motors of the one and you can program it.😜

Thanks for the help so far, I've tried the esc on different channels of the receiver with no results, so came to the conclusion that it's the esc at fault.
Looking like out with old and in with the new.

Cheap ebay item from China. Probably no customer service. Stick with a name brand, but be careful because ebay sellers have knock offs of name brands. As I have stated before, Hobbywing has great products. I have at least eight 1060's.
Lew
Florida, USA

Hi Chris I had a couple of those and both failed in a similar way after giving good use for about 8 months then just stopped responding. Didn't fail during use.
Local model shop told me he had other customers who had similar issues. Changed mine to Viper Marine esc's and no problems since.
Cheers Colin.

have you tried the esc on a different receiver channel -- to id if its a receiver problem or an esc problem

Sorry, forgot a picture 📸 🤣

Hi Bill, a photo of the esc, no brand name, acquired of "flea bay" originally and no issues with working until now. And yes, battery is fine 🙂. As I mentioned earlier whichever motor I swopped it over to it flashes intermittently as if waiting to pair but doesn't bind. Odd because all was good previously. Puzzled 🤔
Cheers,
Chris

Chris.
What make of ESC is it please.
A picture may help as well.
Without teaching Granny,are your batteries charged enough?
Regards
Bill.