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I use CA on ABS. Works really well. For a longer setting time, I use UHU Plus Endfest 300, which is a 2 part epoxy, making sure that the ABS surface is well roughened and clean. This is supposed to work better on ABS than other epoxies. You shouldn't have any trouble finding UHU products online; that's where I source mine. But CA is my go to adhesive for ABS wherever possible: it sticks like the proverbial.
Sorry I can't be more helpful.
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hermank
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Westwind Here is a general table we use for picking the type of glue. If you want to glue say GRP to wood then look for the most common stars. Not all materials are there but we have found it a good basis to select a glue. Hope this is helpful
Bob
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Zap CA's work for me; both Slo Zap (thick) yellow label and Zap-A-Gap (Medium) green label. I also use Bob Smith Industries CA's as well. Both Zap and Bob's are just about equal. Avoid the Thin set CA's, I find the thin too hard to work with. I also use Bob Smith's accelerant to speed up the Slo-Zap when needed. ๐
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I'm in east coast Canada, and I do use styrene sheets in scratch-building at times, and I always use Bob Smith(BSI) 15sec. CA glue. It has always worked very well for me. If you need and cannot find, message me on my FB page 'Greg's Model Boatyard '
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Acetone is a good solvent for ABS an styrene. Widely available in most nail polish removers (look for 100% acetone), it is inexpensive. Can be applied with a paint brush, but evaporates fast. It has a very thin viscosity so it can be applied from a thin syringe. Lew Florida โฑ๏ธ, USA โค๏ธ Update: I find using the regular Testors or Tamiya solvent cements work well, both the bottled liquid which is slightly thicker tan Acetone, and the tube (thicker consistency) work best for me. I do a lot of 3D printing in ABS.
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