Why not just use a hollow mast or masts.if a taper is needed use fishing rod sections.All sorts of sizes available. Harrisons Rods in Liverpool are actually now catering to the model world. if you Google them you can find all their details. Carbon cloth , resins atc also available from them A phone call will get you what you want Nice people to deal with
Ps their regular cloth is already resined but they can obtain plain cloth if you ask them very nicely LOL 👍 😁
Why not just use a hollow mast or masts.if a taper is needed use fishing rod sections.All sorts of sizes available. Harrisons Rods in Liverpool are actually now catering to the model world. if you Google them you can find all their details. Carbon cloth , resins atc also available from them A phone call will get you what you want Nice people to deal with
Ps their regular cloth is already resined but they can obtain plain cloth if you ask them very nicely LOL 👍 😁
Yes as I said use the stays one side positive the other negative..
How about hiding a very thin strand of copper wire in the mast rigging ropes
Very good. Another method is to cut the dowel in half, and do the same. then glue it back together. On my paddle steamer I used the stays as the supply.
Very good. Another method is to cut the dowel in half, and do the same. then glue it back together. On my paddle steamer I used the stays as the supply.
Don't be shy just reply
Having searched In vain for clues how to hide the wiring for navigation lights Inside a mast I came up with a simple router jig to do the job (all my previous models were unlit).
Basically very simple - hold the mast dowel rigid, rout a groove about 3mm wide and penetrating about 2mm beyond the centre line of the dowel and between the various lamp locations. I left an overhang at the base of the mast to allow for later handling when tapering the dowel and the dowel was left overlong so I didn't need to rout to the masthead. A second run with a 5mm (or so) cutter about 2mm deep gives a ledge to glue pieces of timber to close the slot. Once the timber Is planed down to the dowel It Is a simple matter to process the mast as normal. Wiring can then be fed down the mast and steps for the lights fitted to finish the work off. The photos show the process.
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Having searched In vain for clues how to hide the wiring for navigation lights Inside a mast I came up with a simple router jig to do the job (all my previous models were unlit).
Basically very simple - hold the mast dowel rigid, rout a groove about 3mm wide and penetrating about 2mm beyond the centre line of the dowel and between the various lamp locations. I left an overhang at the base of the mast to allow for later handling when tapering the dowel and the dowel was left overlong so I didn't need to rout to the masthead. A second run with a 5mm (or so) cutter about 2mm deep gives a ledge to glue pieces of timber to close the slot. Once the timber Is planed down to the dowel It Is a simple matter to process the mast as normal. Wiring can then be fed down the mast and steps for the lights fitted to finish the work off. The photos show the process.