Hi Neil, as RN says, switch to a build blog, that doesn't mean you're on your own, we can still assist and guide you, plus we can see photos as you progress, helps others along the way

Mark

Hi Neil, we're glad to help.
OK, then it's time to start a Build Blog! 👍
For the diesel sound check this
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/p63-micro-diesel-engine-sound.html
or here for Horns and other 'bells and whistles' !! 😉
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/other-sounds
There's also a selection of amps!
I have their ASDIC sound board to go into my destroyer.
(Stupid spell checker wanted to change that to Aspic!!!😡)
Happy browsing, cheers Doug 😎

Mark and Doug.

Following your posts is really helpful.

In the sound department I am just looking for diesel sound that will follow throttle and a good horn.

Marks point about reducing the 'plastic' is important. I was going to do that as I had not thought of the consequences.........Thanks Mark.

BTW, should I now move to another place on the site as I will be talking cutting,screwing and sticking after tonight?

All the best both.

NPJ

Hi Mark, many thanks, good tips 👍
Think I'll remove the rear hatch lock completely and hold the hatch down with neodymium magnets.
Re Plastic Trays; Don't even want to think about how you found out! 😡Thanks for the warning👍 I'll go careful and maybe add a semi-bulkhead stiffener!? Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug, your LiPo pack will fit with room to spare between the prop shafts, a 7.2 NiMh pack just fits up to the gearbox, clearing the rear hatch lock is a problem, removed the underside of the catch and fitted a turnbuckle to hold the hatch closed.
Take care removing the moulded plastic trays, they form part of the hull strength, only cut till you have clearance, not right down to the inner hull, (guess how i found out!!!)
Mark

Hi Mark, you are sooooo right! 👍
That's why after much irritation, toing and froing and soldering with various connectors I settled on the 3 variants I list above for the types of models I build.
For the plastic magic weight was the main consideration not current! On some mini models I will probably use direct soldered connection to save the weight of plugs and sockets. Yes, it CAN make a difference in a 15" model😉
From 45 years of electronic engineering I learned-
1 Keep the parts count down to reduce the potential MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures), REF: MIL-STD Handbook 217! 😉
2 Eliminate non-essential components to keep production costs down!
I find that these principles apply equally well to model building!
I NEVER charge any battery regardless of type in the model!
Would be a bit impractical with some of the longer hulls anyway, would block the electrics bench 🤔
Seems the LiPo pack could fit between the prop shafts in the Southampton. Access through the work deck hatch. Pico RX is no problem, biggest item is then the P94 dual ESC/mixer at 74mm. if I remove the original plastic trays this should also go in!
Report soon. Oh yeh! Usual problem, what do I do first??
Ta muchy for your interest and advice, much appreciated👍
Cheers and Goodnight from Munch, now 01:45 here, way past my beddie-byes time! Doug 😎

Hi Doug, now that your bits have arrived, plan your fit out, remember the battery needs to be in a place where it can be easily removed, don't charge in the hull, as for the mini Tamiya plugs, i bought converter plugs from ebay, female to male.

RN makes a good point, if you standardise on 1 plug system it is so much easier, i am in the process of changing all my batteries to the XT60 system, Lipo and NiMh, mini Tamiya are good for 10 amps, Tamiya at about 15 amps, XT60, about 60 amps, other plug systems are available, Deans etc, often it is the connectors which cause the problems.

Mark

BTW: I wouldn't bother with the Tamiya converters, just another potential 'point of failure'. Decide on your 'standard' connector, chop off the wrong one and fit the right one!
Have just been faced with the same dilemma; different batteries with different connectors. Have decided as follows:-
High current XT60,
Medium (~10A max) Tamiya mini,
Plastic Magic mini red BEC.
ALL gold plated!
Cheers Doug 😎

OK! I'll bump Southampton up the 'To Do' list! 😎

Hi Neil, I know the feeling, but Gently Bentley! 😉
What do you want your sound system to do?
there are simple single sound boards e.g for motor sound; diesel, petrol, steam in various types, sirens - operated by a simple servo/micro switch/relay system or full blown programmable modules where you can load your own .WAV format sounds. There are thousands on the electronic spider web!
Several years ago I built a CMOS driven relay board so I could operate four functions from one proportional channel: destroyer siren (Whoop Whoop!), smoke, lights, fog horn. Was a home made PCB about 4" square!
Nowadays one mini module will do all that and much more; Plug and Play, plus you can load your own sound files from the PC, but is that so satisfying?? Another debate😉
Cheers Doug 😎
PS for some inspiration have a look at the Component Shop site under Action Electronics; sound! I've just bought the Asdic sound board for my destroyer; test report follows. 😉

The bits and pieces have started to arrive today. I am very impatient - spoilt only child so want it all NOW..............

Having issues with sound system decision. Plenty of types around, but do not know which will suit best. Any views?

Also where to source mini Tamiya/Standard Tamiya converters.

Also be interested to see how Doug's P94 dual ESC and rudder mixer fits and works.

Cheers all.

NPJ

They say " whatever floats your boat" so today I did just that with the Tug in the bath..................

I compared the affect the new battery 'buggy type' 3300 on water line with the standard battery.

Although three times heavier, the larger battery seemed to make only slight difference when placed in the centre, fore and aft.

Whether I can move stuff to put it there is another matter. Same with the computer fan. But worth a try I think.

So next bit of available time needs spending on really doing some damage inside!

NPJ

Hi Dave, you may well be right! But that's half the fun ain't it?😉
Already done some dry fitting trials of pico RX and micro-Viper (for single ESC running) and the LiPo battery. So far so good. still some original plastic tray to be chopped out. Haven't done a test tank (domestic variant😉) balance/loading trial yet though!
Yes, mine also has the removable cabin, and a fairly large hatch in the work-deck. The cabin of course I immediately took apart to see where the smoke genny could go. The genny is one of the mini jobs borrowed from the 'iron way' bods😉 Could maybe squeeze two in?? But that's for a later stage.
Just got sidetracked by building an 88 deck gun for U26, lots a luverly fiddlin😲 DHL just told me my 37mm for the PT boat is arriving tomorrow. Not bad, I only ordered it this morning. Excellent service from Ralf at Modellbau-Koenig!👍👍👍 Must have a look if he's got a 2cm for the gallery of the U Boat.
Lots to do, keeps the few remaining grey cells alive😊
Happy building people, don't stick anything which shouldn't be😡😲 Cheers Doug 😎

So OK sounds like one ESC at least for starters and leave rudders alone.

I will try and 'help' smoke with a small fan unless no room for it and the sound system is still on my list.

Will order ESC tomorrow. is anything special recommended?

All the best.

NPJ

Hi Doug
Not sure which version we had. it looked very similar to the original Southampton tug but did have a removeable cabin so was newish.
This is a small tug and I still think you will struggle to get everything in
Good luck when you get round to building!
Dave

Hi Mark, (and Dave)! hear where you're coming from! 👍
Mine is the original (or 2nd gen?) version with 40MHz and a piddly 7.2V 800mAh NiMh. And no 'special FX' 🤔
So I propose to use one of my pico 40Meg RXs and chop out all the then useless thick plastic trays. Velcro is enough for the miniature stuff I want to fit. Should then have less 'space problem' 😉
I will also fit a 2S LiPo, 4000mAh and the ESC/Mixer board.
That's the first stage, after that smoke generator (and engine servicing kit Mark😉) can go in the lower superstructure, also a few lights and see how we go! Diesel sound also a possibility, have some small sound transducers from HobbyKing which work as hull resonators. Tip from one of the Fireboat drivers👍
All 'down the line', Sea Scout and PT Boat are ahead in the queue!
Cheers Doug 😎
PS I'm talking about the Southampton not Richardson, maybe that has less below deck space?

Hi Doug
I have to agree with Mark. The Club was donated a completed model and it was very restricted space inside. As mark says it sails OK with one ESC and there was even room for a switcher unit for lights.
Your Destroyer would benefit installation, especially if youu other hand is engaged with litre jug of the gold nectar!

Hi Doug, like your choice but you might struggle on the space beneath the deck, they do run well with just 1 ESC and plenty of space for the battery

Regards

Mark

Have been considering this for my Southampton.
Don't want tank steering though, since I sail in a Biergarten I need to keep one hand free for the Bierkrug!😉
So I decided to try the Action Electronics P94 dual ESC and rudder mixer all in one module! From Component Shop these days. Can be easily set in one of 4 modes. See pic.
NOTE: Brushed motors ONLY!!
Not fitted yet, still busy with Sea Scout and PT Boat. The module may yet end up in my Destroyer!
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Neville, independent motors, handy but the effect is not brilliant, i use one ESC, but again its up to you, 2 ESC's and a mixer, getting complicated for a first tug!!!

Larger Rudders, not needed really, they are pretty maneuverable as standard, however!! they dont go astern very well depending on the wind they are poor, direction is haphazard at best. (great fun, which way will it go???)

SEE great questions.

Regards

Mark

Good morning folks.

Well a few (3)decisions taken on advice:-

Futaba Tranny 6 channel and receiver

Larger battery pack, going with NiMh rather than Lipo

That gives me something to do in the bottom of the boat when I take the lid off....................

All this started with tidying up the Smaragd sail boat, so seem to have lost track a bit. However, Tug Boat much easier to manage on the bench and if I have you chaps helping over my shoulder, I am happy!

Next two questions to those using/used such boats.

What about having independent motor drives to improve maneuverability ?

Increase size of rudders?

I must now go and spend some money!

Regards to all.

NPJ.

Hear hear! Right on Mark👍
Neville; That's what we are all here for - give and take. 😉
No one knows everything, and everyone has discovered / learned something useful at one time or another that he can share.
Happy upgrading, I shall be watching for tips for my Southampton upgrade 😊, cheers Doug 😎

Hay Neville, don't say things like 'pestered' we all join this and other forums to get help and to give advice, i'm not the worlds greatest modeler, but i have been around for a good while, in many different types of models, air, sea and land.
Nev, be careful sitting the hull lower in the water, she does not have a massive freeboard, with the bigger/heavier battery she will sit slightly lower.
As for the Radio gear, I have Futaba, always have, expensive ish, but i like the way they handle!!!, if you look on ebay you can find reasonable gear from £30 ish, my futaba T6J is about £75 ish, lot of guys at my club swear by Frsky. Your choice. Look at the price of the extra receivers.
CoG, battery forward or aft does not seem to affect the balance but i use 3300mah buggy packs so they are 2 - 3 time heavier than the standard AA cell pack. Battery forward can cause cavitation if you go full astern but normal sailing is good, if you want to tug tow, this is the way, battery aft gives the ultimate control, but with slightly less freeboard so running in choppy water might cause a bit of swamping, again your choice and/or water conditions.

Just remember the only silly question is the one you did not ask!!!!

Regards

Mark

Jarvo
Do not know if this is how I get back to you!

If you are prepared for more questions....................

I felt the tranny was 'poor' with the model and I cannot add it to the one I use with the Smaragd sailboat as I need the tug as a 'recovery boat' so would want both transmitters to be functioning.

I will go for the 6 channel receiver and upgrade tranny as well as the larger batteries as you have both (Rallyst) suggested.

Do you agree that the boat can afford to sit lower in the water and would you put CoG in the middle or slightly toward the stern?

Please do say if you do not have the time to be pestered like this!

All the best Mark.

Neville

Rallyst, thanks for the comments. Sounds as though your Richardson nearly had it's goose cooked...................

I understand what you are saying, but I can never just 'leave well alone' !

I am with you on the batteries bit and going to talk with Jarvo on the rest.

I would hope we will all keep in touch as 'things' progress.

All the best.

NPJ.

Hi Rallyst, I agree with you, but the radio gear supplied is not the greatest, I have bought all mine of ebay 1 had no transmitter and the other 2 on 27mh broke down within a short while, so nothing lost, my Richardson is still going strong, but will be re-fitting with Futaba gear, just so i only carry 1 transmitter

Regards

Mark

Just reading through all of the above, I have a Richardson tug and thought, you know, it does all of the above straight out of the box,and everyone in my club,(bournville) loves it, so why change it?! it's fun, has lots of features and always gets the most comments from bystanders! I love it and wouldn't change a thing, only thing I have done is buy 4 x 2600mah battery packs for longer running time (gives me at least an hour a pack)
It's even survived being landed on by a rather large Canada goose and spending 10 minutes inverted and taking on water! All features survived and lived in to sail another day! 👍

Mark. Thank you so much for all of that.

Too much for me to take in tonight, but sounds like spot on advice for my project.

Good of you to give the time.

I will get back to you when I have had chance to think it all through.

Many thanks.
NPJ

Hi there NP. Where do you want to start, I have converted several Richardson / Southampton, tugs. The first thing is do you want independant motor control, not found that i made a deal of difference, I now fit 1 ESC for both motors. Sound, when sailing you can't hear it, you can't hear most sound systems more than a few yards out, can be fixed but heavy so be careful, Smoke, in reality, smoke shows that the engines or injectors need servicing, on the model, try a computer cooling fan, the small ones to blow the smoke up the funnels. Better radio system, YES, which one your choice, but by a 6 or more channel system. Battery, a 7.2v buggy type NmHi pack will fit under the stern hatch, (just) or in place of the smaller battery under the front hatch, weight is not a problem, just get the balance right. I have altered the control cabin on 2 of my models, moved forward to the edge of the lower cabin, removing the steps down to the deck, also repositioning the funnels into different locations, ! model further back and the other the funnels were cut down and fitted to the top of the air intake casings, with a firefighting gantry across the top of them.

In short, TX / RX upgrade, ESC, single or twin, 3300mah Battery last for hours, anything else, up to you.

Hope this gives you some ideas. PS when cutting the wiring keep the motor wires as long as possible, i cheated and fitted the battery leads with a Mini Tamiya / Standard Tamiya converter

Regards

Mark