thanks for the credit but it was octman's video of a working system and looking at it I would bow to his MUCH superior knowledge!

As to your TX sorry I pass on that the only modern set I know anything about is the Taranis and that's complex enough for this old brain.

Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp.
Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos.
Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly.
At least, that's the plan

Martin

bowsies may well slip over time BUT when your setting up they could give you some chance to adjust once you have the final position worked out a drop of cyano would fix in place.

If you are talking about a closed loop system have a look at this YouTube :


I have it on my yacht and it works very well, with no tangles any more.
If you are not discussing a closed loop system, apologies for butting in.
Chris

Haverlock,
wouldn't bowsies run the risk of slipping?
I was thinking of using brass tube (although they would have to be slit first now as I have done all the knot tying I want to)!

I guess I should first find where the sail winch servo wants to centre itself, then I can mark the string and put crimps on for the rigging cord.

Thanks, folks.

Cheers,
Martin

if your going to crimp you could use these

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/yacht-setting-tubes.html

however because I would think it may be better to have the ability to change things

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=bowsie&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21

Hi
If you get near an R/C shop see if they keep Carl Goldberg Control Line Ferrules they are brass and easy to crimp.

i tend to use crimping ferrules martin

What's the thinking on how to attach the sheets to the main loop of string? Would a little bit of crimped brass work? Or does one have to whip a new piece of string in? One for the main, one for the jib I suppose.

Martin

Thanks, Ian. I would only use the sail winch if there was enough puff to pull the string out, otherwise it would be rudder only.

Well, I have wound on the braided string and set it so the tension is what I think is about right.

Here's the set up, prior to installing in the boat.

The receiving pulley is on a 6mm ballrace and the whole thing is in two layers of PTFE sheet and is made of redundant printer. The brass bits below the drum are holders for the steering snakes, complete with home made wing nuts. Rmbsecretarie's recommended stumpy Hitech steering servo gets the snakes out from under the winch drum. All has to be compact as I can only just get my fingers in there, having very small hands.

Martin

Just make sure you some wind otherwise it tangles to hell!

I think Haverlock, you just pre-empted me!

Martin

Ron,
I will have to look at and read each of your generous number of sheets separately and digest what's there. What I think I just twigged when in that half asleep phase of bedtime was that of course I was expecting the one spool to empty and the other to fill WITHOUT (stupid boy, Pike) putting enough string on the full spool to empty as the empty spool was filling. What I need is, I think, a much longer length of string to start with, then wind a few turns on after tying to the ,say, lower spool, then lead it out enough for the loop to the end pulley and back, then tie off to the other spool, empty. THEN, as it goes round it will indeed, as some of you suggest above, fill top spool as it empties bottom, keeping the loop going. in this arrangement, I don't see any need for spring tension. That, I think, is only needed on the single line, (no loop or end pulley), system. This is all very good in theory, but I may be back when I've tried it. Trouble is, I still have to get batteries for the R/C gear and see if I can bind the Spektrum DX5e to the Orange Rx first. So I may be some time....
Many thanks all,

Martin

Hi
My Naulantia had the same problem equipped with a Hitech Drum Winch. in the end due to frustration I used an arm type sail winch to control the sails. I know this is more expense but it solved a big problem

If you read further about this posted design, they are using a spring system between the two separate spools of the winch. I considered this for my set-up but did not have the spring loaded winch spools.

See this:

https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/pages/Self-Tensioning-Drums-Description-and-Use.html

if you look at the setup

https://olinroboticsailing.wordpress.com/2012/04/07/new-winch-rigging-plan/

you can see that your winding off one drum onto the other drum presuming you have the line length correct in the first place you should never have the problem your outlining.

The Winch paper work makes various suggestions, but I chose to run a single sheet line, aft through the single block. The main is the first ring, then the jib attached forward followed by a thin elastic which provides constant tension. Use a Bowsie if needed in your set-up to get the adjustment just right.

My winch is currently being replaced as it was installed in the early 1990’s.

Hope this is helpful.

I'm dealing with a similar situation. What I cannot see or figure out in any of these setups is how sheeting out the line(s) is handled. in my "real" sailboat, I'm in a constant tug-of-war with the wind trying to pull the sail and line out. When I sail my RC, the wind does not always have the force necessarily pull the line out leaving the line bunched up in and around the winch below deck.

I am not a yacht guy but if I understand the twin spool winch correctly the line winds one way around the lower spool then out to a pulley then back and around the top spool. Thus line winds off one spool and on to the other. The sheets to main and jib are fastened to the running line so you can sheet in and out.

https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/4/9/5/5/4/2/a6177894-171-Vivacity%20sail%20winch%20set-up%20small.jpg

https://olinroboticsailing.wordpress.com/2012/04/07/new-winch-rigging-plan/

Those links show a couple of examples.

I have been seeing systems where the drum is on the servo and then the line appears to go round a pulley at the other end in a continuous loop. I have my servo on one plank and the other end's pulley on another, adjustable with a wing nut for distance and so tension, but I would imagine it'll still slip, so how do others do it?

Ron, I'm not sure I understand the diagram. I hadn't planned on using a single line, but that might suit my installation better as I have little space below decks.

Martin

Martin When using a drum winch for the sail control wire in a continues loop, it needs to be kept taut but also needs some flex in the line for when the drum is moving so a spring or bungee cord is needed for this purpose which stops the line from wrapping it's self around the drum and stops the line snagging.

Is this what you are trying to achieve? Or are you running a single sheet with an elastic keeping tension on the sheet line. The elastic is attached forward of the jib.