Hi Brian
Sorry I missed your message. I've been tiling our cattery taking all our time and just the odd time tinkering in the garage. I have been lucky enough to find an original Ed racer engine as I had before. Alan at Weston has been a great help and sourced an rc carb and back plate for it and managed to spark into life yesterday. My plan is to fit this but need to make brackets as old ones we're on the engine I mislaid. Just need advice now on fuel tanks as the old ones were removed due to leak. Wish I had repaired now. So thank you for the offer of the other engine it was very kind but I would keep hold of it. It can only go up in value. Thanks again. David

Yeah this bottled stuff is just a poor substitute , and all that gas!

Thanks have not visited those lakes for years make a change from Port shead but theres a good Bass house in Portishead The Ship, not sure which is the greater Attraction .

Cheers Brian

Ps metal bonding also reduces corrosion but im guessing im probably teaching you to suck eggs cheers.

Dear Nasraf, I picked up on your comments on salt in the waters around Bristol ,i know Portishead is full of all sorts of nasties including salt and obviously Clevedon but is St Georges Park. & Eastville salt . Thanks Griss.

Thank you for your research. My building was done in 2007 after an injury. It was a recovery project and the fella who helped me Clive Hampton seemed to know his stuff. He said many of the paint schemes done by modellers were incorrect. Who am I to say yea or ney?
Bet your book is a good resource too.

Enjoy your project.

RonBauer

Dear Brian,
Your parcel arrived safely today, thank you so much for your gift and letter. It will make a nice addition to my vintage display. I am now searching for a transmitter to go with it.
There aren't many youngsters interested in saving our living memories. I have model boats from (built in) 1914 right up to the 1990's. At least one from each decade except 1920's. And a good selection from my childhood period 1950/60's I have about 10 awaiting restoration at present which I am slowly working on through the lockdown.
I will let you know when my next show will be??? Probably next year.
It would be nice to meet up with you and enjoy a cup of tea and chat with you.
Cheers Colin.

Hi there,
I am very interested in your vintage rc items, as I normally display my vintage boats and rc equipment at vintage shows and at present I don't have any Mcgregor items.
Be glad to pay for the post and packing.
I live in Hereford, let me know how much and I will pay.
You can email me at
coli_car@yahoo.co.uk
Cheers Colin.

Hi nasraf, -a few pics of what I started with and the framing method I used. Photos I have were useful (I even managed to get the correct number of planks marked on the deck) Bulkhead positions are marked on drawing but need dry checking (I put a few stringers in dry each side and checked the form) Prop shaft tube/ engine supports are pre made to suit the shafts (hollow for tubes) Drawing 2 is of the prototype with a curved roof. Production (MK2) models had a straight roof (slightly curved side to side) as dwg 1 (with bulkheads) You'll notice an extra bulkhead in the stern of mine (scale to NZ version)

My wheelhouse fits down in the hull as did the real one (sunken wheel house floor) but I could have left more room without that at 3ft scale (21.33:1) as with all the gear I have (twin everything) it is very crowded. 40" might have been better. I am going to do a belated build blog of sorts in a while (unfortunately only started pics once framed) Just have to find the time.
JB

Thanks Brian,
I'll take some pictures of the hatch seal and post them tonight.
I'll coat the brass in sanding sealer when it had dulled a little - too shiny just looks wrong! %uD83D%uDE0A

Did you manage to resolve your hatch problem?
I solved it by attaching a 10mm x 0.5mm rim to the inside of the opening which fits into a slot built into the drop cockpit surround and cabin.
I've posted some pics of the finished model. it's as accurate as I can make it from the photos on the internet.

HI Brian
Thanks for that. Yes it was the rigging pictures I was interested in. I am building a Cariad Bristol Channel pilot cutter so the info you have provided will certainly help and I will contact John by email.
Glad you are enjoying the Olympics build, we seem to take one step forward and two back, but that is the price for scratch building. At least we are building two at the same time so only make the mistakes once!
many thanks and kind regards
Dave


--- ORIGINAL MESSAGE (REPLY ABOVE) ---
HI Dave

I read your last message on the site, but have had a bit of difficulty in opening it again, as I seem to have a problem when there is a large content.

From what I can remember from my first reading you had a request for more info on the rigging picture I took in the Bristol docks, as the boat was not moored alongside I am not sure what is was, but I think that it was probably a Bristol channel pilot cutter.

As I said in my blog the info I had for the ends of the rigging came from looking at models at the Bristol Model Engineering Exhibition in particular " The Woodspring Model Sailing Club " who have a particular interest in the Bristol cutter and a number of members have built them.

I am not a member of any model boat club, but I contacted the Secretary of the Woodsping club to see if he would answer your questions. He seemed quite willing to do this so the following is some contact information.

His name is John Collins and his contact e mail is beryl.collins@lineone.net I think an initial contact by e mail is best.

My e mail is blestowe@yahoo.co.uk which may be better to use when talking about particular issues.

I am very much enjoying your saga on the construction of the 2 white star liners, I took my first transatlantic voyage from New York to Southampton this year and we passed over the site of the Titanic wreck, I am not sure that you want this information when you are in the middle of the Atlantic. Never the less we shall be repeating the journey next year as it is a very much more pleasant way of coming back from the USA. than cramped in a Boeing 757.

With Kind regards

Brian Blestowe

Hi,
Have begun to draw lines for a coupleof coaster from the end of the 1800's. Do you have any other info on her, Ie who built or ran her, and I will do a bit more research and add her to the list for you. My oher computer is away getting fixed but when it comes back shouldn't take long before the various line are drawn.
regards
vnkiwi
(HarryD)

nasraf
admin got in touch and we are sorting your replies out...

have asked for your original reply about fireboat ride height etc. to be moved to the end of my blog (not the begining) as you raise some really valid points

and your two follow up replies about using your laptop etc. to be deleted as they are not relevent to my blog

thanks

David

HI Tall Paul, sorry for delay, I dont look in all that often. Whilst the motor is a 12v one, the nominal voltage is up to 19.2v, so I am operating at the max volts. THese graupner motors really come alive when you max the volts. Originally it was on 12v, then on a visit to the ellesmere port model boat show, Graupner where in attendance, I asked what the nominal voltage meant (they all have the spec on the boxes) Graupner suggested going to the max volts, but as its direct drive, water cool or give it a rest every 5 or 10 mins to cool off. The difference from 12v to 19.2 was amazing!
My new motor has arrived, thats a 9.6v motor, but again nominal volts is 19.2, this is what I will run.
With regard to your esc, I doubt 15amp is enough. I had a viper 25amp, and it was always shutting down, and that was on 12v. HS93 and I did some amp testing, from start to flat out the amps peak at 17, but the initial start up was in excess of 25, hence the viper was cutting out. We experimented with different props, and settled for this 3 blade. 2 blades where a little bit faster, but the amp draw was higher, and the motor was getting too hot. A smaller prop was less amp draw, but the speed dropped off, it was a lot of trial and error, I think we will have to start all over again with the new motor as its higher revving!
This is the esc I use. Most will only cope with 12v, this will take 19.2v, and massive amp draw, but, its a bit expensive

Ripmax seasprint esc

Specifications
Use Boat
Operation Forward/Neutral/Reverse
Break -
On-Resistance 0.003
Frequencyf 4K
Max Peak Current* 940A
Max Continuous Current* 280A
B.E.C No
Input Voltage 6-16 cells
Motor Turn 12-36
One Touch Setting Yes
Temp Cut-off Yes
Water Cooling System Yes
Wire Size 2.5mm2
Case Size 52x35x16mm
Weight 56g

£34.99 AMC models, ebay (just bought a 2nd for another boat)

HI pmdevlin,

the ytube link worked a treat - great speed you have achieved - it planes very well indeed.

You mention 2 X 9.6V to give 19.2v 4600mah nimh's, 3 blade brass prop, 50mm - does that mean you are overdriving the 700 12 V motor ?

I am using a Viper Marine 15 Amp ESC which ESC are you using ?

Many thnaks, Tall Paul

Thank you all for your advice I now have a starting point. Great video if I can get my old boat to go like that I will be satisfied. Water cooling would be no problem as it is still fitted from previous glow motor. Just back from the big city an was able to get about 95% of the fittings required. Good Luck at the fun day wish I could be there, a bit far to travel.

Regards Robo.

have a look at this video, apologies if you have seen it before, its well used to demonstrate the speed. The video is 6 weeks or so old, and was during testing, watch the 2nd half, the first half was in "inexperienced" hands. The rudder is now sorted (many thanks to HS93 for his assistance) so it does not bury itself anymore on turns. it is currently undergoing a full refurb hopefully in time for the funday.
Running gear: Graupner 700BB Turbo 12v (about to be changed to the new version which is higher revving and faster) 2 X 9.6V to give 19.2v 4600mah nimh's, 3 blade brass prop, 50mm. We tried many amp tests with different props, "x" and "S" 2 blades etc etc, different sizes, but this gave the best run time (30 mins mostly flat out) , without overheating the motor, which was water cooled. I think this is a good speed, faster than scale, given its a heavy old girl!

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=so5Ge9CNEV4

Hope this is correct link, youtube is barred in work so I cannot check it 😀

HI Robo,
In general electric motor info may be found: p 56 of Vic Smeed 'Introducing Radio Control Model Boats' has a table with Watts, 2-blade, 3-blade, shaft size but not boat size/weight; there is also p 38 John Cundell "Radio Control Boats" table with Watts, hull size, prop size; Both of these are good intros at the time thay were written but it seems to me an Improved table is needed considering the many different types of boats that now exist.

I have been looking into recently as I needed to speed up 43" Fire Boat -I have tried:
(1) Marx it took 1.1 Amp (just tacho load) from 12 V battery and gave 4,750 rpm;
(2) Graupner 900 BB it took 1.47 Amp (just tacho load) from 12 V battery and gave 5,500 rpm

Neither give sufficient speed for planing with 2-blade 60 mm dia prop Or with 3-blade 60 mm prop This info seems to need up dating. My search for more speed continues; not sure if all other elctrics like servo, Rx, Speed controller etc will take 18 V but could try 18 V and now into water cooling I think !