There's ideas in the pipeline. Just a matter of getting them to fruition 😀

Stephen

My apologies pmdevlin, paul. The pic I referred to was your model and my comments related to your post.
Getting older by the minute so please excuse my senior moments. 😰
I understand your concerns re multiple posts. Perhaps one day Fireboat may include a section re installation that is not boat specific, showing various alternative techniques with relevant pros and cons. 😀

to be honest, I have a build log going on my club site, st helens, and I did same on mayhem, I just thought members on here would be fed up of another fireboat build blog, if people want to see another ( 😁 ) I will certainly do it, I also thought members of multiple sites might think it was a bit repetitive? seeing the same thing

Paul

HI Dave,
Very slight error the superb layout is of P Devlins boat, not mine, wish it was, have to talk nicely to him or mug him next time he comes to Burton,He He He.
Thanks for the comment, Pete D.

HI PeteD
Always glad to assist members with any restoration.
Looking at you attached pic I have to comment on the very neat and functional layout. 😀
Everything seems so well constructed and fitted. You should share this with other members who are installing or considering fitting brushless. 👍
The power available is now comparable if not greater than some early IC engines and we need to construct our models accordingly.

great explanation Dave! 😀 very good advice, I did exactly your advice on my current restoration of a 46" and the 36", glass cloth with resin, after going back to bare wood, the wood is then sealed on the outside, so no shrinking or expansion will happen, and I also used a satin varnish on the inside, for asthetic reasons, and also it will seal, but still allow the wood to breathe.

HI Graham
I hope you now have enough info to select appropriate colours for your restoration. 😀
You did not indicate the exact details of your hull construction or paint finish, and this will need to be repaired in an appropriate manner if you wish to put back into the water.
As has been indicated in the replies wood and water need to be kept apart otherwise all you hard work will be wasted. The original Aerokits wooden models were often constructed with a waterproof glue (Cascamite) and then painted. Some were protected on the inside with dope or fuel sealer but many were not, and water spillage into the hull caused damage to the paintwork.
Some hulls were covered in tissue and dope before painting and more recent restorations use glass cloth and resin to seal the hull.
If any of the damaged areas on your model are down to bare wood you need to carefully check the whole hull for any soft spots as water has a habit of travelling all over wood from any entrance point. You will need to assess any spots found and repair as appropriate. Many (me included) find it easier to strip the whole hull down to bare wood and cover with cloth or tissue and resin or dope to ensure we have a solid waterproof hull.
If you are staring from a bare hull you can choose whatever type of paint you wish.
However if you are overpainting an existing paint you need to check that your chosen paint is compatible. it is possible to buy undercoats that will protect existing paints and this has been mentioned on another post - perhaps someone can provide the details.
I hope this isn't too daunting for you but I believe the end result will justify the effort you put int the restoration. 😀
Good luck and please do advise us how you progress. You could even start a build blog to share your experience 😀

these days you can get any paint MIXED in a can.even two Pack if you want it.I have had BS numbers in all kinds of paint type's the lenth of time that models spend brteen re paints is normally not that long also there is no need to put a top clear coat on like you do with some types of paint it is also Cellulose is less harmlessmt o use .

Peter

HI All, Yet again the colour scheme for the Fireboats goes on, despite all the advise given, my V/T information gives the colour that I have indicated and a further word of caution to anyone restoring and repainting any old craft, Do Not Use Cellulose on wood, after 40 years in the Motor Repair and refinishing trade be assured you are asking for trouble, Cellulose paint dry's hard no question of that, any Acryllic paint when dry always seems to stay semI flexible hence you get better durability, but do not allow the wood to get wet, remember wood expands when it gets wet and contracts when it gets to dry out so you are always going to get flexing as will also happen if the model gets hot.
In my years in the motor trade I had access to loads of products not know to most modellers that would benefit their efforts but the costs for small required amounts would be prohibitive to be cost effective, I could ask my paint guys to mix an extra 1 or 2 10ths for my purposes without bother.
Good Luck to all of you, keep the work going.
Regards Pete D.

dont know what it is, have a look in b & q, thats where its from, whatever it is, I overpainted with cellulose and it took fine, 😀

I was thinking more about the "rustoleum textured paint" you applied first. if this is also cellulose I will have to strip the deck of existing paint. 😀

I had the paint mixed at a local paint shop, recommended by HS93. its a cellulose matt finish BS631 grey
Its a bit green/grey really, but its done now and I'm not doing it again!! 😁

Very nice looking finish. 😀
Is this an acrylic type paint? I intend to repaint my 34" Fire Tender which has acrylic paint, so I may be faced with more work than I expected if it is incompatible. 😰

i'm just in the process of refurbing a 46" version, with the deck and none slip finish, I used halfords "rustoleum textured paint", and just kept doing light coats until I was happy with the textured none slip finish, then over pinted with BS631 grey, the results look great, I used a similar process with my 36" fireboat

This is part of a restriced document I recivd it also confirmed what we had pulled of a few original vosper plans BS631 was just a primer colour as it wa used the white roof tops and under a lot of the other paints the roof tops where currex smoth white! so differnt docs say different things I think the typed document came out after the firsr re fit.


http://coachpainting.info/bs381c.html


PETER

HI Graham,
The true colours as listed on Vosper Thornycroft drawings are shown as BS631 Grey gloss for cabin sides, BS631 Grey non slip deck coating, the rest I cannont make out now as the drawing is faded but it is White cabin tops, AntI fouling red below water line with a white water line, most places that do paint mixes now should be able to mix the paint for you, the non slip deck coating might be your problem, but you could easily get away with matt on the deck of a 34 inch.
Regards Pete D.