Elbow grease is the best way. Even if using a chemical stripper you would still use a lot of elbow grease.
The stuff I have in my workshop by the way is Krud Kutter by Rustoleum I use it on model truck parts but still have to use elbow grease.👍👍
Elbow grease is the best way. Even if using a chemical stripper you would still use a lot of elbow grease.
The stuff I have in my workshop by the way is Krud Kutter by Rustoleum I use it on model truck parts but still have to use elbow grease.👍👍
I used denaturated spirit to remove acrylic paint from plywood. Easy & no harm done to plywood. I brushed the spirit, let it stay for a while and carved the soft paint off. Of course, resanding was required.
Have a good Christmas, everybody! We are staying strictly between family members, here.
I used denaturated spirit to remove acrylic paint from plywood. Easy & no harm done to plywood. I brushed the spirit, let it stay for a while and carved the soft paint off. Of course, resanding was required.
Have a good Christmas, everybody! We are staying strictly between family members, here.
For those of you who are technically inclined
Water-based acrylic paint uses an acrylic emulsion to bind pigment. Notice I said an emulsion, not a solution. The acrylic resin does not dissolve in water, and therefore an emulsion is required to get a single phase liquid paint medium. When the water evaporates from acrylic paint, the polymer cross-links its molecules and forms an adherent acrylic-paint film. Once dry, the film is no longer water soluble. Therefore, to remove dried acrylic paint from a porous or nonporous surface, you will need a cleaner that is capable of dissolving acrylic resin. However, please take note: Some solvents and cleaners may not be appropriate for some surfaces and materials.
For those of you who are technically inclined
Water-based acrylic paint uses an acrylic emulsion to bind pigment. Notice I said an emulsion, not a solution. The acrylic resin does not dissolve in water, and therefore an emulsion is required to get a single phase liquid paint medium. When the water evaporates from acrylic paint, the polymer cross-links its molecules and forms an adherent acrylic-paint film. Once dry, the film is no longer water soluble. Therefore, to remove dried acrylic paint from a porous or nonporous surface, you will need a cleaner that is capable of dissolving acrylic resin. However, please take note: Some solvents and cleaners may not be appropriate for some surfaces and materials.
Agreed Ian👍
I was hoping that DJT would have himself injected with Dettol or similar after his incredibly daft comments at that infamous press 'conference'!
Jadies & Lentlemen,
don't get your knickers in a twist over this simple issue.
There is absolutely no need to resort to any potentially dangerous or model damaging chemical process.
BTW Ed, I seem to remember that that video showed a plastic plane being cleaned of enamel paint, not acrylic. A different kettle of fish altogether. There was a similar vid using washing up detergent going around then as well.
Acrylic paint when fully cured is as hard as nails and inert. Maybe that's why it's used on most car production these days.
My treatment would be quite simply flat off with 400 grade wet & dry paper to remove any lumps and bumps and, above all, any gloss.
Then prime with a bog standard general purpose primer, e.g. Halfords or Dupli Color etc. Depending on which side of the big ponds you are!
Flat off with 600 - 1000 W&D and apply your top coats. Bobs yer uncle and U know who's yer aunt😊
No messy and harmful chemicals, just a bit of dust which you can minimise and stick together using your W&D wet👍 Add a drop of liquid soap at the 1000 - 3000 grade stage between top coats to get a surface like glass.
Works for me, see attached pics of Before and After of my Sea Scout restoration.
The boat was coated with Japlack, applied by my dad in the early 60s, with enamel spray on top😝
The decks were sanded clean, stained mahogany, two coats of Lord Nelson gloss varnish sprayed on, flatting with 3000 grade W&D in between. Then the whole boat sealed with the same UV proof gloss sealing lacquer used on cars these days. The cabin roof is sheet mahogany + Lord nelson varnish and a sealing coat.
Just delete the chemicals and add a little more patience and elbow grease chaps and chapesses!👍
Stay safe folks, not only from Covid but also by not using unnecessary chemicals.
All the best folks, want to see you all safe and sound and sailing next year👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
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Agreed Ian👍
I was hoping that DJT would have himself injected with Dettol or similar after his incredibly daft comments at that infamous press 'conference'!
Jadies & Lentlemen,
don't get your knickers in a twist over this simple issue.
There is absolutely no need to resort to any potentially dangerous or model damaging chemical process.
BTW Ed, I seem to remember that that video showed a plastic plane being cleaned of enamel paint, not acrylic. A different kettle of fish altogether. There was a similar vid using washing up detergent going around then as well.
Acrylic paint when fully cured is as hard as nails and inert. Maybe that's why it's used on most car production these days.
My treatment would be quite simply flat off with 400 grade wet & dry paper to remove any lumps and bumps and, above all, any gloss.
Then prime with a bog standard general purpose primer, e.g. Halfords or Dupli Color etc. Depending on which side of the big ponds you are!
Flat off with 600 - 1000 W&D and apply your top coats. Bobs yer uncle and U know who's yer aunt😊
No messy and harmful chemicals, just a bit of dust which you can minimise and stick together using your W&D wet👍 Add a drop of liquid soap at the 1000 - 3000 grade stage between top coats to get a surface like glass.
Works for me, see attached pics of Before and After of my Sea Scout restoration.
The boat was coated with Japlack, applied by my dad in the early 60s, with enamel spray on top😝
The decks were sanded clean, stained mahogany, two coats of Lord Nelson gloss varnish sprayed on, flatting with 3000 grade W&D in between. Then the whole boat sealed with the same UV proof gloss sealing lacquer used on cars these days. The cabin roof is sheet mahogany + Lord nelson varnish and a sealing coat.
Just delete the chemicals and add a little more patience and elbow grease chaps and chapesses!👍
Stay safe folks, not only from Covid but also by not using unnecessary chemicals.
All the best folks, want to see you all safe and sound and sailing next year👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
I read this as well!
About using "Dettol"!
And I saw a video of it being used!
To take paint off a model plane!
And it worked like a charm!
So, it does work!
Cheers, Ed
Hello everyone,
A lot depends on the surface underneath the paint eg wood, metal, plastic. Metal you can use quite drastic measures but plastics and wood can be easily damaged. Caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) can be used on plastics but it is evil stuff and if you get some solution on your hands it turns the skin to soap. Full personal protective gear is needed when using this stuff. For this reason I don't use it on models. However many clothes washing powders have an alkali base to them so soaking a model in washing powder solution often works for me (might take all day). Scrub occasionally with a toothbrush. I once read on a Scale model website that "Dettol" disinfectant works like magic. They use it on plastic planes trains etc. I haven't tried it but all who used it recommended it. It has to be Dettol though not Dettol lookalikes.
If it is only a small area on a larger model perhaps you could make a dam round the area with modelling clay.
Merry Christmas to all
Tim
Hello everyone,
A lot depends on the surface underneath the paint eg wood, metal, plastic. Metal you can use quite drastic measures but plastics and wood can be easily damaged. Caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) can be used on plastics but it is evil stuff and if you get some solution on your hands it turns the skin to soap. Full personal protective gear is needed when using this stuff. For this reason I don't use it on models. However many clothes washing powders have an alkali base to them so soaking a model in washing powder solution often works for me (might take all day). Scrub occasionally with a toothbrush. I once read on a Scale model website that "Dettol" disinfectant works like magic. They use it on plastic planes trains etc. I haven't tried it but all who used it recommended it. It has to be Dettol though not Dettol lookalikes.
If it is only a small area on a larger model perhaps you could make a dam round the area with modelling clay.
Merry Christmas to all
Tim
Here's a few ideas for acrylic paint removal.
Cheers Colin.
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As Acrylic is water based but dries waterproof you have to look at the paint base it is difficult to remove but you cold try surgical spirits, but no Guarantee. Also look at a large hardware for Krud Buster type of removal. This is normally used for removing Graffiti.
As Acrylic is water based but dries waterproof you have to look at the paint base it is difficult to remove but you cold try surgical spirits, but no Guarantee. Also look at a large hardware for Krud Buster type of removal. This is normally used for removing Graffiti.
Hi Chris,
If you type in "how to remove dried acrylic paint"
In to your web browser you will see quite a bit of information.
Martin555.
If it looks right it probably is.
I read somewhere that dried acrylic paint can be removed using ammonia. I tried this earlier today on matt white Humbrol and the only thing that was removed was me from the garage to get away from the smell! If ammonia does not remove dried acrylic does anyone know of something that might?
Chris
I read somewhere that dried acrylic paint can be removed using ammonia. I tried this earlier today on matt white Humbrol and the only thing that was removed was me from the garage to get away from the smell! If ammonia does not remove dried acrylic does anyone know of something that might?