Rather than repeating testing with RX(s) since 2 are doing the same a third probably will give same results. You need to find some one else with a TX if you can near enough that they can test yours. If your getting no lights on your TX another stupid question your sure you are putting the TX batteries in the correct way? Usually these pieces of kit are pretty reliable so a none worker makes me suspect " finger trouble" of one kind or another.
if you use a "y" lead to couple 2 ESCs ( or if you use 2 different channels) make sure you remove one of the red signal leads from the ESC that way you do not risk you receiver ( this presumes your ESC(s) have BEC)
Swamping could be the cause BUT if you managed to get the effect at home its unlikely. If its an old system have you checked for the dreaded black wire problem? Problems like this can be caused by worn/dirty/corroded plugs bad wires and poor connections generally. If you think about it radio systems in boats have a very tough life water and electrics make poor bedfellows. A bad connection leads to electrical resistance and this can cause a signal to develop where it shouldn't. The receiver does an excellent job of rejecting external signals BUT if a servo connection has a signal develop on it this can transferr to a second servo via the voltage connections.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/766905/Spektrum-Dx5e.html?... I was looking around and found this page showing how to bind. One question that springs to mind is are you actually putting the bind plug in the correct place? I know it seems stupid to ask BUT when things do not work one has to check all the stupid things which may be the root cause.
looking around on YOUTUBE I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvItY7q9rrE it walks through the bind process to an orange receiver. I do have a planet t7 and 2 bound receivers which I could be persuaded to part with this is no longer in production but is a very simple system to use being none computerised. No idea what they are worth though . If you think your transmitter is complicated have a look at a taranis I spent many (un) happy hours trying to get it to do anything since for any model you need to effectively tell it twice what each function is doing.
as a rule of thumb charge your battery pack the night before you intend to take your model out to play ( that includes your transmitter). As to binding step 1 with binding plug in power up the receiver look for a rapid flashing light step 2 power up the transmitter with the bind switch held ON. rapid flashing light should change to solid power everything down remove bind plug and keep it safe. Since I have never used the spectrum that's the best I can do. an afterthought you say you have never removed the bind plug are you sure its actually plugged in where it should be not just " parked" for transit?
as to charging and discharging a battery pack. If you leave an NiMH pack untouched for long enough it winds up DEAD, So if your not using a pack for any length of time you should cycle it every couple of months. If your using a pack regularly and just " topping up" the charge again its a good idea to cycle it occasionally to keep the capacity ( I know NiMH are not supposed to have the " memory" problems NiCads had but.......). Yes the charger senses the battery condition and stops when charged. However its good practice to never leave a charger running unattended and to touch the pack often to make sure its not cooking.
ok step 1) plug in your charger step 2 ) keep hitting the STOP button until you can see "Program select NiMH BATT" step 3) press start step 4) a status button until you see "NiMH CYCLE DCHG>CHG 1" connect up your battery pack and press start!
if your using an imax 6 you can run a discharge cycle for NiMh packs this would allow you test the charge state of your pack and set it to a state where you can recharge to full. The cut off level for NiMh is 1V/cell.
ok here we go ( I hope) your 5 cell pack is rated for so many mAh we need to know that pls. You need to decide if you want to quick or slow charge the pack. Since the pack is 1.2V per cell it has a fully charged voltage of 6V. The charger will ( if you page through the screens and select MiMh ) switch off when the pack is fully charged. However you do need to select the charge current. That's why we need to know the pack rating.
thanks for the credit but it was octman's video of a working system and looking at it I would bow to his MUCH superior knowledge! As to your TX sorry I pass on that the only modern set I know anything about is the Taranis and that's complex enough for this old brain.
the normal jewellers method is to wind a coil around a suitable mandril ( slightly smaller diameter than required ID ) then use a saw ( not cutters) to cut the resulting coil into rings. Solder the ends together. It takes longer to explain than to do. If you use cutters to " snip" the coil you need to file the cut ends flat.
most 6V sail winches will work fine on 4.8 volts. if you NEED 6V then things get way more interesting. Check to see what voltage your receiver can handle ( some have built in BECs some not). in the event your radio needs nominal 5V ( 4.8) and sail winch 6V then you need a 6V power supply and a BEC to power the receiver. However some sail winches have a built in BEC so you can power your radio via the winch. ( BEC= battery eliminator circuit in effect a voltage regulator )
I would avoid using pen cells you really need rechargeable since they can deliver more current without sagging and a sail winch when pulling in a sail can require quite a bit. The function/channel bit gets me also I remember when you needed 2 channels per surface ( leave out single channel) back when reed was the norm. Early propo systems used function because 4 function was the equivalent of an 8 channel reed setup.( actually 12 channel since it included trims). It now seems that function has been replaced with channel just cos.
What your asking for is possible but not easy. A 12V ESC will handle an overvoltage but I cannot say how much and depending upon the current draw of your motor a voltage regulator can be expensive. The simple solution is to get a 3s LIPO However you do need a special charger and have to make sure you do not discharge a LIPO to too lower voltage. https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html if your interested in going LIPO have a read about the care and feeding of them.