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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60-4 0-Tin-Lead-Solder-Wire-HQ-Flux -Multi-Rosin-Cored-Solder-DIY- Hobby-22-SWG-/142069333049 Tin/lead solder is still out there and I agree with Dave not being a fan of lead free solders
First take a deep breath and calm down. Soldering is easy if your only using 2mm material I would get a reel of 60/40 cored solder. Use a decent sized electric soldering iron. Clean all your joints well ( use a fine abrasive like 600 wet and dry). Apply the iron to the joint then apply the solder remove solder remove iron. You made a joint repeat until you have done. Try not to burn yourself. Clean any flux with meths and an abrasive.
within reason you are not limited to LiPo batteries. My reasons for pointing you in their direction are their ability to supply current for lower weights. I am not expert in their usage having only playing with them for a short time BUT once you take the plunge they are like everything else use some common sense and they are fine. Charging requires a LiPo charger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual -Power-iMAX-B6-AC-LCD-Screen-D igital-RC-Lipo-NiMh-Battery-Ba lance-Charger-/112221546397?ha sh=item1a20ece79d:g:mloAAOSwo4 pYPzgr That's the kind I use ( will charge nimh nicad and lead acid also) as to batteries some is good more is better ~laughs~ Its a case of run times at the current dumping your using I have some 5500Mah 3s ( nominal 12v ) lipo you can link batteries in parallel to get increased runtimes. One important thing to remember is not to run a LiPo down to too low a voltage the limit us usually given as 3.3v per cell so a 3s will give you a 9.9 v low point. IN practice aim for a higher cut off voltage. Depending on your radio setup ( I use frsky ) you may be able to have your battery voltages echoed to your transmitter. The charger will charge to full and also charge to storage voltages LiPo batteries must not be stored at full charge. Probably there is a lot more you need to know Dave M is way more expert than I.
Consider going brushless mechanically the motors are simpler ( no brushes) and they are more efficient. If you take the plunge and use LIPO batteries you can have any amount of performance. Not sure but I think an 800Kv outrunner would give you all the power you need and no gearbox needed. The torpedo motor has a recommended rating of Operating Voltage 12 volts. Current approx. 5.28A at max efficiency. RPM at 12.0v - 4289 at max efficiency. Weight 595g (approx) Shaft Diameter - 6.35mm The 800Kv has a 28A rating at 12 V so a wattmeter and a bit of fiddling you can match prop to motor and get some performance
audacity is a cross platform sound editor so I should think there is a version for mac computers. Bluetooth speakers are cheap enough and come with amps built in sounds can be recorded and used as a playlist on a smart phone you can get a Bluetooth extender to increase range this is all off the shelf tech and you probably have a smartphone already
Two pack epoxy is the toughest!! It largely depends upon many factors what are you going to be doing with it. For a scale gently handled model acrylic is fine for something to be handled roughly then enamel ( or cellulose ( if you can find it)). Just remember that the surface your painting on counts cellulose onto enamel will "pickle" acrylic you can paint onto just about any finish. Seal it all with an acrylic varnish.
You could add an extra piece BUT consider your prop will still be at risk. The speed of the prop is a vector addition of the rotational speed plus boat speed. Unless you intend to run at very high speed its probable the shaft will survive most collisions.
Do not forget to specify right or left handed the thread is the same but the direction of rotation is different and please do remember to fit a locknut ( and use locktite) so your new prop doesn't join the rest of the lost bits on the bottom of the pond
It depends upon your ESC most of them are forwards only BUT Esc(s) for cars and boats have reverse ( usually). Also quite a few have the ability to be programmed so you can have either on one Esc. We need the model number and maker of your Esc before we can even begin to be more specific.
Sorry for the terse reply I tried posting a couple of times and got error messages. Do please get a watt meter you should be pulling no more than 12A whatever prop you use. Quite honestly to replace a 3.5cc motor I would think you need something a little beefier. Received wisdom would suggest you look for something in the 3-400W class. http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/ca talog/product_info.php?product s_id=408 http://brchobbies.co.uk/catalo g/product_info.php?products_id =398 The above are only examples not recommendations I have never used that supplier. unfortunately you will also need to replace your ESC !!!
Make sure its weighted down on a flat surface otherwise the warp will just come right back. Really it should be HOT when you clamp it down so it fixes into the new shape. The side pieces of acoustic guitars are formed using water and a hot bending iron and once cooled they can stand unsupported on a bench ( this is in indian rosewood or other exotic). Ammonia solution is worth remembering it REALLY changes the characteristics of wood for a short while. That's how we used to make rolled balsa bodies for gliders. 1/16 balsa wrapped around a snooker queue.
dampen it both sides let the water soak in for a little while then while your wife is out use a steam iron on it. Wood becomes very pliable when hit with steam. Once its pretty flat place it under a weight ( books are good) on a flat surface and leave for about 24 hours repeat if needed. Steaming wood is a very ancient method and even today its how they make "bent wood" furniture. If you ever want to get more extreme you can use ammonia solution but that take a longer time before the wood is back up to strength.
probably cheaper to get a watt meter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT08 -RC-150A-High-Precision-Watt-M eter-Power-Analyzer-w-Backligh t-LCD-UK-D5DC-/252153701329?ha sh=item3ab58823d1:g:FFMAAOSwni RWN0ba one example. They are cheap and made for the job ( probably not as accurate as a good multi meter but WAY cheaper and if you wreck it no big loss)
Watch out most cheap multi meters only go up to about 10 A. While that may seem a lot when you want to get power from low voltages ( 12V or so ) 10 A is soon exceeded what is the rating of your ESC? You need to be able to measure round about that figure. Teeny tiny 1806 motors can draw over 10A http://www.radioc.co.uk/DYS-18 06-2300KV-Motor-p/2014.htm
if your replacing the motor and esc then ignore my previous post. You may consider this http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk/acatalog/HYDRA15COMBO.ht ml your 7 cell pack would work fine just get a watt meter so as to check current drawn with various props.
Your ESC should be 150-200A. The "Max. charging rate: 105 A " is a mistranslation the motor has a max current rating of 105A as a rule of thumb add 50% minimum for an ESC. The battery you have specified can deliver over 200 A so your wire needs to be heavy duty. Since its a LiPo battery you need to handle with some care. Get a LiPo charger and make sure you do not discharge it below app. 3.4V per cell ( most ESC have a built in cut off ). Graupner Brushless Control Navy V150 should fit the bill
There is a device that makes it simple http://www.wilko.com/all-hand- tools/wilko-contour-gauge-5in/ invt/0209036 one example there are others this allows you to copy the profile of your hull. This profile need not be a tight fit since its a good idea to have some form of padding ( draught excluder sponge strip etc. ) between the support and the hull to prevent scratching.
Your 7 cell NiMh will work you may overvoltage the motor ( slightly) but should be ok for pottering around. A 15A ESC limits what you can do. Unless you want to rip out the power plant and ESC consider buying a 6 cell MiMh ( rc car) battery pack.