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Do you NEED insurance to fly a model airplane no. Should you have it YES. Its not very long ago a teenager was killed in Dartford. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1447013/Girl-14-kill... You may take the position that this was a large(ish) model yours will be smaller. While I cannot locate a reff. I have a memory of a story relating to a child killed by a .049 powered model. This was many years ago. Your idea of a foamy probably being to light to do much harm sounds good until you consider how much mass it holds in ballast. Remember the energy of a moving object is given by 1/2 MV^2. If you have a flying site which is remote from other people and privately owned so there are no members of the public around then again your probably good to go. If however there are chances of other members of the public around then its foolish to take a risk which is not needed.
I know people build real jets I look at them and DROOOOOOOOOL. However at my age and short pockets looking is about all I can afford. When it comes to stabilising I have a pixhawk in my quadcopter and that is an amazing beast. It is capable of autonomous flight following GPS waypoints then auto landing.
reading the rc advisor I found one point VERY strange he states in runners still have brushes ???? All together children " OH no they don't" I had forgotten the ducted fan use however yes ducted fans with a need for high RPM and less torque in runners are the obvious choice.
in runners get used in the model car crowd other than that they are used in FAST boats. As with most things its a trade off in runners lower torque but more revs ( for any given wattage ) match the prop to the motor and your going faster with an in runner. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4hU7Rv7X2w one example!
oh and the jam goes on the scone before the clotted cream!!! That's how it occurs some one makes a statement that may have some tangential relationship and people respond this is a forum of ( generally) rugged individualists who spend a lot of time and money on something the rest of the world considers pointless.
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.
to late now but for the future if you need stuff like bridge recs or anything else electronic have a look on EBAY way cheaper than RS https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675... As to extra channels on my African Queen in addition to forwards and back plus left and right I have steam whistle engine sound and speed ( its all electric with a fake steam engine and boiler) and steam engine start stop.
Lipos can be taken to a storage setting which is supposed to keep them good for a long term storage. You can still use the imax just make up a lead with a couple of crock clips to clip to the TX battery.
If the charge lead plugs into the transmitter while the LiPO is still connected it probably has the needed electronics to limit the charge. Failing that you can charge the LiPO from your main charger just plug the LiPO lead into the charger balance port
find a piece of wood thick enough to take the pin of the plug and drill a hole of the needed size so the plug will sit upright with the hole for the wire to the top and will stay there without the need to hold It ( this will mean a lot less swearing because you burned yourself.) Having positioned the plug heat up the soldering iron and " tin " the inside of the hole Strip the insulation from the end of the wire to be soldered into the plug and tin the bared end. Slip the heat shrink onto the wire ( if you do not have a battery plug on yet you can leave this step out) Now put the tinned end of the wire into the hole of the plug heat with your iron on the OUTSIDE of the plug and feed solder into the hole until your happy remove heat and allow to cool give it plenty of time and give thanks for the wood because trying to hold it all while doing this HURTS
OK before you introduce the TX to a BIG hammer just an idea which will take only a few min to try. It is possible that since its not been used for quite a while the switches contacts may have become oxidised so remove the batteries and switch it on and off AGRESSIVLY several times then do the same with the bind switch. It will probably do no good but will cost only a little time.