All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
January 2019: 13 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 20 people
[Score: 8/10] 24" Swordsman Capable of 6mph Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA RE 540/1 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Brushed Marine ESC-50 (50Amps) ESC - Comments: A little underpowered so a work in progress
[Score: 10/10] 49" Dauntless Capable of 15mph Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a turnigy sk3 3536-1400kv (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hobbyking (50Amps) ESC - Comments: The original boat, commuted up the river hudson to New York and belonged to the Rothschild Family, it could top 50mph if needed.
I am soon to start building the Dumas Dauntless boat and I need to decide on the merits or drawbacks of counter rotating props. Also as It has 2 motors I will have to decide on Brushed Or Brushless and what size motor. I was thinking of a pair of MFA 850 or 800. My take on this Is that Brushed will drive boat at Scale speed cheaper and with less equipment IE cooling, 1 ESC Instead of 2. Plus acid lead battery will serve as ballast for such a big Boat 49 1/2 Inches. I welcome any thoughts on this subject as I have not committed to anything yet, If my thinking Is flawed please tell me. Regards and thanks Glyn.
HI Mark, Hope you enjoyed your break. The boat was great this Sunday, planed nicely and was very responsive to the controls. The crack Is minor, where the skins meet on the keel, not deep and the joins behind the crack are robustly glued, with resin brushed over top. When you say use epoxy, Is that epoxy resin, or Is there an epoxy varnish? Regards Glyn
HI Mark, Does your method of covering hull with nylon and varnish work on Painted surface (IE acrylic paint)? I found a hairline crack running down the bow, although It does not leak Into boat I would feel better If It was Sealed over. Regards Glyn
HI Mark, Prop stayed on OK but will be adding thread lock as you suggested. Boat took a real hammering on the rough water but only took 1 thimble full of water In half an hour of boating hell. Hard to say If the boat planed or not, the water was so rough and the wind was very strong. Found that I had the Set the rudder up wrong and had the motor terminals round wrong way that caused a collision with the concrete wall on multiple occasions. Boat Is slightly damaged, will have to repair paint on bow. On my next build I will take on board your suggestion to cover hull with nylons and varnish or even Fine glass matt and resin. Going to try again this coming Sunday, hope Its better than this Monday was. ( PS ) having trouble uploading pics. Regards Glyn
HI Mark, Ready to launch this sunday If nothing goes wrong, Everything responds to the transmitter OK I just hope that the propshaft nuts are tight enough to prevent losing prop. How do I tell If prop Is turning right way? The motor turns clockwise as viewed from the propshaft. I must thank you mark and all the other members who have offered advise and solutions that have helped me to complete this build. Regards Glyn
HI hutchinson, First time I have fitted servo so I hope I've done It right. Please see pic. I know that I need to cut the spare rod that overhangs on the rudder end, but have I done right In having 2 rods on servo 1 push 1 pull, or Is 1 sufficient? Regards Glyn
HI Mark, Thanks for response, I have not fitted motor yet but will do so now. I am having trouble finding a drill bit long enough to do the job without the drill fouling the paintwork. I can however get on with the rudder. Many thanks, Glyn
HI Guys, Well I have got to the dreaded part (for me) the electrics. I need to know how each componant relates to each other. think I understand the rudder assemble up to the circuit then I am In new territory. I will list all parts and ask that I can benefit from the knowledge In this forum. The engine Is the MFA 850 brushed, the Servo Is the Futaba S3003, The ESC Is the Brushed Marine ESC-50 with reverse. The R/C set Is the Planet T5 transmitter and reciever. I have trawled the site for Info on circuitry and setup but do not feel confident on my present understanding. Thanks and regards Glyn
HI Dennis, Thanks for confirmation on battery position, will go ahead and make a battery tray. Have applied more paint, Its a case of warming the shed up and painting between showers as excessive damp blooms the finish. Thanks Mark for your last post I forgot to put your name on reply. Regards Glyn
Found the answer to free joints glued with titebond3, I used our steam wallpaper stripper and fitted a small nozzle so the steam was concentrated where I wanted It. It did the job so well that restoration jobs will be a tad easier. Regards Glyn
HI Dennis, Thanks for your post, does your battery sit under the seats of the open cockpit? I saw One that was positioned there and It sat well In the water. The Huntsman Is a lovely design, I'm looking forward to the launch. Regards Glyn
HI Danny265, Saw your post and as I used to work on the broads I looked the sea scout up and It was owned by A.G. Ward Of Norwich Thorpe. The length was 32 ft and 9ft on the beam. Hope this Info Is not to late for you. You can check If It Is the boat you are looking for from (Pic.) Regards Glyn
I have got the boat In white primer now and will wait for a warmer day to wet flat and apply top coats. (see pic) I have a restoration job In mind and was wondering If glued joints can be separated. The glue Is Titebond 111 ultimate. Think I read someware that steam can help with some glues. Hope It workes with Titebond.
Thanks dragon, that Is what Dave M said. Dim light goes to trickle charge. I feel that my concern has been answered and I thank all who contributed by sharing their knowledge and experience. Regards Glyn.
HI Lee; Thanks Lee, you having the same gear and symptoms but without any problems makes me feel more confident. I hope that I can make some one feel that way In the future. This Is a super site built by super people. Regards Glyn
HI Dave, Thanks for that Info It answers my concerns. Of cause If the manufacturer of the charger had produced more accurate Information this question would not have arisen. I will however keep an eye on the batteries. The readings are the same on both units, and during charging the meter said nearly 15 volts. My meter Is not digital and not so accurate to read. Regards Glyn
I have made a comeback to the world of modeling and things have changed beyond recognition. I felt lost untill I penned my problems and recieved help and encouragement beyond what I thought of as normal for a forum. This forum Is special and I feel at home here.
HI Alan & Dave, Thanks for your response. I will do as you suggested. Have tested about 48 hours post charge about 13Volts. Will recharge and repeat test 24 and 48 hours and see what I get. Will also test under load. Thanks & regards Glyn
I have 2 12V 7Amp Batteries and the charger Is a JP gell cell auto. Instructions states that red light goes out when charged, But mine just goes from bright red to a dull shimering light. The Items are all new and unused other than charging. I am worried In case this means my batteries are damaged In some way. Hoping that someone Is able to cast some light on this. Regards Glyn
HI Alan & Mark, Thank you for your replies. I have no bath just a wet room and bless her she won't let me fill It. Will have to use lake. I sealed the Inside with resin It worked like a charm, It stiffened the hull and strengthened the joins. I used filler primer on the exterior and have wet flatted It ready for primer. All the paint has been purchased from Halfords and I now should own shares In the firm, the colours are Royal blue and white. (" see File") Good Idea the tights but to hard work for my health. Will have to be careful how I drive It. I got hold of The complete set of plans for the Sea Queen 46 Inch version From ebay so I should be busy for some time. Regards Glyn
HI Folk, As I have started painting boat I thought that maybe this would be a good time to get my head around fitting all the R/C and motor parts and where to fit them. The parts are 1 MFA torpedo 850 motor, 1 Futaba S3003, marine brushed ESC-50, 1 rudder, push rods, and 1 very heavy L/A Battery. This Is my first entry to R/C so I need to know how each part relates to the others. Obviously common sense tells me about some procedure like position of rudder and motor as they are shown on the plans. The rest I am unsure about. Regards Glyn
Hi, Solved the windshield problem by using TV cable for top of windshield, and for the rest I used PC white SATA cable around the base of shield and the frames. Waiting now for opportunity to paint hull and cabin. Regards Glyn