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Liked Paint spraying problem - can anybody help? 10 years ago
Liked Paint spraying problem - can anybody help? 10 years ago
Followed 3838derrick 12 years ago
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
📝 Paint spraying problem - can anybody help?
10 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald (
Master Seaman)
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Gregg - have you (or anybody else) had any real experiences of cans exploding ? ❓
I always put mine in very hot / near boiling point water - have done for years without any problems
Once you've given them a good shake, and warmed them up, it makes a real difference to the finish achievable
and also allows full usage of the contents of the can, I.e. minimum wastage.
BTW I must apologize : I haven't been following this forum much recently -
I will try to come back and answer/thank recent posters.
Richard
I always put mine in very hot / near boiling point water - have done for years without any problems
Once you've given them a good shake, and warmed them up, it makes a real difference to the finish achievable
and also allows full usage of the contents of the can, I.e. minimum wastage.
BTW I must apologize : I haven't been following this forum much recently -
I will try to come back and answer/thank recent posters.
Richard
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📝 Another Double Size Eezebilt Mermaid
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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more photos of btushless motor Installation.
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📝 Sea Trials
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Perhaps I should bring you up-to-date on my Mermaid build (and own up to not
having properly finished it yet!
having properly finished it yet!
)
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📝 This Is turning Into a long term build!
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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I hadn't realised how long it was since I last posted
Update : April 2013
A long pause in the Mermaid build because I did my usual trick of starting another project
before finishing the current one! - End effect - I now have a half built hovercraft - that
project has stalled because I am having problems making a satisfactory skirt for it -
all the other main bits are done.
Next problem - after having a heart pacemaker fitted last year I started having intermittent
problems with angina usually at night - problem is, everytime I rang NHS Direct for advice I
ended up in ambulance to Hull Royal infermary - I had about 5 or 6 "away days" - I think
I have things under control now, just need to be careful what work I do outside (see third
reason for long pause below) also I need to keep warm whilst working outside.
Third reason for delays - I decided to get rid of a large garden 'shed' (actually an old railway
trackside building - 18 feet long by 9 feet wide - all large wooden beams and corrugated Iron
roofing) - I had hoped to give it away in the hope that somebody would dismantle it for me -
but in the end I had to make a start dismantling it on my own - it was overworking on this in
the cold weather that caused the angina problems! - somebody did eventually complete the
dismantling and took it away. Once the shed was removed there was a lot of tidying up to do
-arranging for the building of a long section of garden fence and the rebuilding of a brick wall
I took the opportunity whilst all this was going on, to get a concrete pad laid so that I could
buy myself a greenhouse!
Situation is that the greenhouse is now assmbled, 'glassed' and ready for action - so in between
planting this years veggies and a few flowers it's back to the mermaid build!
Have you followd my story so far?
Last week I completed the decking on the mermaid - mahogany planks 1mm x 3mm glued to the
balsa deck - so far I have given the planks about 5 or 6 coats of yacht varnish rubbing each coat
down with wet and dry.
Next few days I shall post pictures of the mermaid in her current state - the boat can't be far
off her maiden voyage now!
TTFN
Richard
Update : April 2013
A long pause in the Mermaid build because I did my usual trick of starting another project
before finishing the current one! - End effect - I now have a half built hovercraft - that
project has stalled because I am having problems making a satisfactory skirt for it -
all the other main bits are done.
Next problem - after having a heart pacemaker fitted last year I started having intermittent
problems with angina usually at night - problem is, everytime I rang NHS Direct for advice I
ended up in ambulance to Hull Royal infermary - I had about 5 or 6 "away days" - I think
I have things under control now, just need to be careful what work I do outside (see third
reason for long pause below) also I need to keep warm whilst working outside.
Third reason for delays - I decided to get rid of a large garden 'shed' (actually an old railway
trackside building - 18 feet long by 9 feet wide - all large wooden beams and corrugated Iron
roofing) - I had hoped to give it away in the hope that somebody would dismantle it for me -
but in the end I had to make a start dismantling it on my own - it was overworking on this in
the cold weather that caused the angina problems! - somebody did eventually complete the
dismantling and took it away. Once the shed was removed there was a lot of tidying up to do
-arranging for the building of a long section of garden fence and the rebuilding of a brick wall
I took the opportunity whilst all this was going on, to get a concrete pad laid so that I could
buy myself a greenhouse!
Situation is that the greenhouse is now assmbled, 'glassed' and ready for action - so in between
planting this years veggies and a few flowers it's back to the mermaid build!
Have you followd my story so far?
Last week I completed the decking on the mermaid - mahogany planks 1mm x 3mm glued to the
balsa deck - so far I have given the planks about 5 or 6 coats of yacht varnish rubbing each coat
down with wet and dry.
Next few days I shall post pictures of the mermaid in her current state - the boat can't be far
off her maiden voyage now!
TTFN
Richard
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📝 does trhis forum share many members with mayhem?
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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I'm on both ... (who said I'd got nothing better to do!)
Richard
Richard
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📝 More Delays
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Just to let you know I haven't left the country !
I have unexpectedly had to take time out to have a heart pacemaker fitted.
It has left me a bit one handed, since my left shoulder is very sore.
The rubbing down of the hull is only proceeding slowly since I
need to rest the shoulder periodically, but I WILL finish the boat!
Richard
I have unexpectedly had to take time out to have a heart pacemaker fitted.
It has left me a bit one handed, since my left shoulder is very sore.
The rubbing down of the hull is only proceeding slowly since I
need to rest the shoulder periodically, but I WILL finish the boat!
Richard
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📝 How to set up boat motor equipment
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Glad to help, Bill
Richard
Richard
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📝 How to set up boat motor equipment
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Very good source of boat wiring diagrams -
admittedly all based on ACTION Electronics
hardware which isn't expensive.
There are loads of setups for different boats -
you may find the information you are after
admittedly all based on ACTION Electronics
hardware which isn't expensive.
There are loads of setups for different boats -
you may find the information you are after
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📝 Paint spraying problem - can anybody help?
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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I am In the process of spraying the hull sides on a 2 x scale Eezibilt mermaid
with rattle can metallic blue, but I've got a bit of a 'problemette' -
I can produce quite a good blue surface, or a nice metallic surface but
not a single uniformly coloured surface. Best seems to be blue with a
silvery metallic bloom In patches - Any had experience of this and
managed to solve It?
If I can't get the spray-can to work then I will fallback on airbrushing
Humbrol metallic blue, hopefully that should do the trick!
Richard
with rattle can metallic blue, but I've got a bit of a 'problemette' -
I can produce quite a good blue surface, or a nice metallic surface but
not a single uniformly coloured surface. Best seems to be blue with a
silvery metallic bloom In patches - Any had experience of this and
managed to solve It?
If I can't get the spray-can to work then I will fallback on airbrushing
Humbrol metallic blue, hopefully that should do the trick!
Richard
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📝 Boat building slowed down a bit!
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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A family wedding and the nice weather's meant that the mermaid building
has been put on hold a bit.
Anyway, the niece is married off, & away on honeymon, & the spuds,
onions, beans, tomatoes, & summer bedding plants have been seen to.
I am still in the process of spraying the hull sides with rattle can
metallic blue, but with a bit of a 'problemette' - I can produce quite
a good blue surface, or a nice metallic surface but not a single coloured
surface with any consistency. Best is blue with a silvery metallic bloom in
patches - Any had experience of this and managed to solve it?
If I can't get the spray-can to work then I will fallback on airbrushing
Humbrol metallic blue, hopefully that should do the trick!
pictures attached - I recently finished building & conversion of a static
model of a motor yacht (by Manutua) to R/C - I call it the 'squeeze' job.
I started building this time last year and named it after my father
who passed away last August.
I can post more info/photos if anybody's interested.
TTFN
Richard
has been put on hold a bit.
Anyway, the niece is married off, & away on honeymon, & the spuds,
onions, beans, tomatoes, & summer bedding plants have been seen to.
I am still in the process of spraying the hull sides with rattle can
metallic blue, but with a bit of a 'problemette' - I can produce quite
a good blue surface, or a nice metallic surface but not a single coloured
surface with any consistency. Best is blue with a silvery metallic bloom in
patches - Any had experience of this and managed to solve it?
If I can't get the spray-can to work then I will fallback on airbrushing
Humbrol metallic blue, hopefully that should do the trick!
pictures attached - I recently finished building & conversion of a static
model of a motor yacht (by Manutua) to R/C - I call it the 'squeeze' job.
I started building this time last year and named it after my father
who passed away last August.
I can post more info/photos if anybody's interested.
TTFN
Richard
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📝 Trent lifeboat
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Stuart - just come across this thread . . .
Is this the boat you are talking about ?
Is this the boat you are talking about ?
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💬 Painting the Hull
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Just stocked up on the Tamiya 6mm and 10mm tape!
I have only recently heard about the Frog tape - can
anybody recommend a stockist/supplier?
I have only recently heard about the Frog tape - can
anybody recommend a stockist/supplier?
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📝 Painting the Hull
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Just in case you thought I'd left the country . . .
Having felt a bit under the weather 🔨 for a couple of
weeks I have now completed stage one of painting the hull
I am taking it carefully because I have used Gloss Black
Humbrol enamel on top of the rattle can filler primer & I
shall be using rattle can metallic on the hull sides - I don't
want to start lifting the enamel when spraying the hull sides.
See piccies
Richard
Having felt a bit under the weather 🔨 for a couple of
weeks I have now completed stage one of painting the hull
I am taking it carefully because I have used Gloss Black
Humbrol enamel on top of the rattle can filler primer & I
shall be using rattle can metallic on the hull sides - I don't
want to start lifting the enamel when spraying the hull sides.
See piccies
Richard
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📝 Motor connectors Size and From ???
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Component shop are pretty good for all things electrical.
Q1 Are you sure that 3mm connectors are actually made?
component shop 'only' list 2mm, 3.5mm and 4mm see
Q1 Are you sure that 3mm connectors are actually made?
component shop 'only' list 2mm, 3.5mm and 4mm see
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📝 Wattmeters
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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I ordered one of these wattmeters the other day -
it arrived this lunchtime.
I made up a couple of leads to adapt the Deans connectors
on the wattmeter to the standard Tamiya connectors that
I have on all my battery packs.
The wattmeter seems to 'do what it says on the tin'. I managed
to get up to 0.8A and 6 watts when I hooked it up to my
brushless esc. and motor (0.8A x 7.74v = 6.192 watts )
Richard
it arrived this lunchtime.
I made up a couple of leads to adapt the Deans connectors
on the wattmeter to the standard Tamiya connectors that
I have on all my battery packs.
The wattmeter seems to 'do what it says on the tin'. I managed
to get up to 0.8A and 6 watts when I hooked it up to my
brushless esc. and motor (0.8A x 7.74v = 6.192 watts )
Richard
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📝 Wattmeter update
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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budget wattmeter arrived this lunchtime.
I made up a couple of leads to adapt the Deans connectors
on the wattmeter to the standard Tamiya connectors that
I have on all my battery packs.
The wattmeter seems to 'do what it says on the tin'. I managed
to get up to 0.8A and 6 watts when I hooked it up to my
brushless esc. and motor (0.8A x 7.74v = 6.192 watts 👍 )
Richard
I made up a couple of leads to adapt the Deans connectors
on the wattmeter to the standard Tamiya connectors that
I have on all my battery packs.
The wattmeter seems to 'do what it says on the tin'. I managed
to get up to 0.8A and 6 watts when I hooked it up to my
brushless esc. and motor (0.8A x 7.74v = 6.192 watts 👍 )
Richard
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💬 A little more progress . . .
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Gregg
👍 Yeah - I'd forgotten about that - I have some
grey primer from the same manufacturer as the white, I
shall use that.
I had been relying on the old fingertip test and light reflecting
off the painted surface - to be fair as it stands (and partly
because of the very simple sheeting on the hull) there aren't
a lot of low spots.
Richard
👍 Yeah - I'd forgotten about that - I have some
grey primer from the same manufacturer as the white, I
shall use that.
I had been relying on the old fingertip test and light reflecting
off the painted surface - to be fair as it stands (and partly
because of the very simple sheeting on the hull) there aren't
a lot of low spots.
Richard
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📝 A little more progress . . .
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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A quick update.
The first stage of rubbing down & filling is complete.
The first coat of High Build Primer is on - the surfaces
don't look too bad, although the grain of the balsa is still
visible in one or two places.
I have settled on 1mm x 6mm mahogany planking for the deck.
I have also ordered one of the budget Wattmeters I mentioned
in my last update.
The first stage of rubbing down & filling is complete.
The first coat of High Build Primer is on - the surfaces
don't look too bad, although the grain of the balsa is still
visible in one or two places.
I have settled on 1mm x 6mm mahogany planking for the deck.
I have also ordered one of the budget Wattmeters I mentioned
in my last update.
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📝 Wattmeters
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Special for Dave M ....
Which Mermaid to watch ?????
BTW - the colourful mermaid will be used as a logo on the hull of my boat !
Richard
Which Mermaid to watch ?????
BTW - the colourful mermaid will be used as a logo on the hull of my boat !
Richard
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📝 (Other) IONA
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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1/72nd Clyde Puffer built from Model Slipways kit
12" overall, Styrene hull and superstructure, etched brass and white metal fittings - excellent kit!
ESC is rated at 1 Amp max! (Motor: kit supplied cassette motor) (ESC: Action P52A) (8/10)
12" overall, Styrene hull and superstructure, etched brass and white metal fittings - excellent kit!
ESC is rated at 1 Amp max! (Motor: kit supplied cassette motor) (ESC: Action P52A) (8/10)
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📝 (Working Vessel) Taylor S
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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The scale model is of a 'Mid Stream Delivery Boat' based on the Ohio river - the large towboats moving goods up and down the river, radio their orders ahead to the Grocery Store, and this boat is then used to deliver the goods to the towboat which of course then doesn't need to stop!
Scratch built in 2011 from outline details found on the internet many years ago!
Has a system of 3 rudders, two ahead of the prop and one astern which allows it to almost spin on the spot!
Have not sailed it 'properly' yet - only tested on garden pond (Motor: Squires Mabuchi 385) (ESC: Mtriniks Viper) (9/10)
Scratch built in 2011 from outline details found on the internet many years ago!
Has a system of 3 rudders, two ahead of the prop and one astern which allows it to almost spin on the spot!
Have not sailed it 'properly' yet - only tested on garden pond (Motor: Squires Mabuchi 385) (ESC: Mtriniks Viper) (9/10)
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📝 Wattmeters
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Been looking at wattmeters - anybody got experience of this one from 4-Max ?
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📝 Reached the tedious bit of the build. . .
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Boat building's a bit like the weather at the moment, Wet and Dry!.
I am typing this in a haze of dust from freshly sanded balsa, filler & sanding sealer, etc. etc.
I have decided to put a layer of tissue on with the second coat of sanding sealer.
The paint has been bought for the main part of the hull - dark metallic blue. There
will be a couple of coats of white high-build primer before the final colour coats.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Been looking at wattmeters - anybody got experience of this one from 4-Max ?
I am typing this in a haze of dust from freshly sanded balsa, filler & sanding sealer, etc. etc.
I have decided to put a layer of tissue on with the second coat of sanding sealer.
The paint has been bought for the main part of the hull - dark metallic blue. There
will be a couple of coats of white high-build primer before the final colour coats.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Been looking at wattmeters - anybody got experience of this one from 4-Max ?
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📝 It's Sheeted!
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Pic 1: Sheeting almost complete - just the difficult bit to do . . .
Pic 2: Rudder, prop, and propshaft skeg.
Pic 3: Sheeted Bow - chine line is a bit 'freeform' at the moment
but I intend to attach a 2x2mm spray rail from bow to stern,
it should help to define the chine line around the bow & act
as a painting guide.
Pic 4: Full hull and cabin
The sanding sealer has arrived, so next big job is sealing, sanding, and
filling any dips in the hull. Still have't really settled on a colour scheme
yet current thinking is : bottom of hull black, white separator then gold
and dark blue up to the deck. Will probably cover deck in varnished
mahogany planking, finally cabin will be gloss white
Pic 2: Rudder, prop, and propshaft skeg.
Pic 3: Sheeted Bow - chine line is a bit 'freeform' at the moment
but I intend to attach a 2x2mm spray rail from bow to stern,
it should help to define the chine line around the bow & act
as a painting guide.
Pic 4: Full hull and cabin
The sanding sealer has arrived, so next big job is sealing, sanding, and
filling any dips in the hull. Still have't really settled on a colour scheme
yet current thinking is : bottom of hull black, white separator then gold
and dark blue up to the deck. Will probably cover deck in varnished
mahogany planking, finally cabin will be gloss white
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💬 Propshaft Coupling arrived - Construction Full Speed Ahead!
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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All advice/warnings gratefully received! I am still feeling my way with respect to brushless motors.
Dave M - I assume the transverse wedge(s) you mentioned would be inside the hull - it/they would resist any lateral movement or vibration of the 'motor' end of the propshaft (the wedge I was proposing will be at the 'prop' end).
Comment about screws loosening noted!
Prop is a 30mm dia. four bladed brass one from the spares box - the pitch doesn't look too steep and I have left a little clearance to allow the fitting of a 35mm dia. one if needed - the motor is only rated at 222 watts, so I don't think it will run anything larger.
Gregg - I hadn't seen any comments about current draw on a brushless set-up using NiMH batteries until yours - FYI the motor is rated at 20A max and the ESC at 30A max - when I bought them I was more bothered about not frying either the motor or the ESC rather than the batteries!
I will eventually be 'going' LIPO - but I am taking things one step at a time - I will have to invest in a new charger as well as new batteries - the lightness and storage capacities are very tempting.
Sheeting almost finished - new update coming shortly!
Richard
Dave M - I assume the transverse wedge(s) you mentioned would be inside the hull - it/they would resist any lateral movement or vibration of the 'motor' end of the propshaft (the wedge I was proposing will be at the 'prop' end).
Comment about screws loosening noted!
Prop is a 30mm dia. four bladed brass one from the spares box - the pitch doesn't look too steep and I have left a little clearance to allow the fitting of a 35mm dia. one if needed - the motor is only rated at 222 watts, so I don't think it will run anything larger.
Gregg - I hadn't seen any comments about current draw on a brushless set-up using NiMH batteries until yours - FYI the motor is rated at 20A max and the ESC at 30A max - when I bought them I was more bothered about not frying either the motor or the ESC rather than the batteries!
I will eventually be 'going' LIPO - but I am taking things one step at a time - I will have to invest in a new charger as well as new batteries - the lightness and storage capacities are very tempting.
Sheeting almost finished - new update coming shortly!
Richard
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💬 Propshaft Coupling arrived - Construction Full Speed Ahead!
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Gregg - this is the first time I have used this type of coupling - the motor is a 1000kv and I will be using 7.2v NiMH packs - that equates to 7,200rpm - should be OK, don't you think?
Dave M - yup the screws have lock washers on already.
If you look at pic 3 (lefthand side) you should be able to see
the 5mm thick fillet of balsa under the propshaft - I might beef it up a bit though!
I shall be putting a similar 'wedge' between the propshaft and the underside of the hull once I have done the hull sheeting.
Richard
Dave M - yup the screws have lock washers on already.
If you look at pic 3 (lefthand side) you should be able to see
the 5mm thick fillet of balsa under the propshaft - I might beef it up a bit though!
I shall be putting a similar 'wedge' between the propshaft and the underside of the hull once I have done the hull sheeting.
Richard
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📝 Propshaft Coupling arrived - Construction Full Speed Ahead!
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Pics 1 and 2: Motor and Propshaft Coupler fitted
The ESC is mounted Immediately ahead of the motor
and the power switch (which works through the
ESC) is mounted under the edge of the deck.
The propshaft coupler is from Mobile Marine Models
in Lincolnshire - it is really intended for tug use and
as such the power is transmitted through two shear
pins (visible through the plastic tube)
Pic 3: Motor Mount Side View - The angle of the
'wedge' matches the angle of the propshaft - you
just need to slide the wedge backwards and forwards
to get the motor shaft into line with the propshaft
Pic 4: Propshaft epoxied in and receiver mounted.
Its hull sheeting next!
The ESC is mounted Immediately ahead of the motor
and the power switch (which works through the
ESC) is mounted under the edge of the deck.
The propshaft coupler is from Mobile Marine Models
in Lincolnshire - it is really intended for tug use and
as such the power is transmitted through two shear
pins (visible through the plastic tube)
Pic 3: Motor Mount Side View - The angle of the
'wedge' matches the angle of the propshaft - you
just need to slide the wedge backwards and forwards
to get the motor shaft into line with the propshaft
Pic 4: Propshaft epoxied in and receiver mounted.
Its hull sheeting next!
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📝 A few more pics
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Pic 1: Transom on and sanded to shape ready for sheeting -
two items of note :
a) A medium cut metal file held flat against the deck sheet
doesn't rub off much material - but it does allow you to
produce a really tidy chamfered edge (on the transom in
this case)
b) if you double up the size and the thickness of the components
you will find that they need to be cut a little larger come time
to chamfer them where the side and bottom sheeting will attach.
I had to glue a few extra strips around the transom (you may
be able to see the two pieces of 1/16 balsa glued to its lower edge
The other troublesome component was the first former back from
the bow - Immediately under the deck.
Pic 2: Rear cabin roof now on.
Pic 3: The removable cabin is now secured to the hull with two M3 bolts
through the (ply) cabin floor to a reinforcing plate and captive nut soldered
to a brass plate on the underside of the deck (Pic 4)
two items of note :
a) A medium cut metal file held flat against the deck sheet
doesn't rub off much material - but it does allow you to
produce a really tidy chamfered edge (on the transom in
this case)
b) if you double up the size and the thickness of the components
you will find that they need to be cut a little larger come time
to chamfer them where the side and bottom sheeting will attach.
I had to glue a few extra strips around the transom (you may
be able to see the two pieces of 1/16 balsa glued to its lower edge
The other troublesome component was the first former back from
the bow - Immediately under the deck.
Pic 2: Rear cabin roof now on.
Pic 3: The removable cabin is now secured to the hull with two M3 bolts
through the (ply) cabin floor to a reinforcing plate and captive nut soldered
to a brass plate on the underside of the deck (Pic 4)
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📝 Slow Progress -Waiting for Bits
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Not a lot of progress on the build - still waiting for the
propshaft coupling and sanding sealer etc.
Pic 1: Rudder Linkage : standard rudder but with a sheet brass horn
soft soldered to a 3mm I.D. brass collar.
Pic 2: Standard size servo with aircraft type links at each
end of rudder pushrod - all from the spares box.
Pic 3: Small clip made from leftover etched brass sheet
Pic 4: When your super glue is running out, or is more
'soup' than 'super' this speeds up the build!
propshaft coupling and sanding sealer etc.
Pic 1: Rudder Linkage : standard rudder but with a sheet brass horn
soft soldered to a 3mm I.D. brass collar.
Pic 2: Standard size servo with aircraft type links at each
end of rudder pushrod - all from the spares box.
Pic 3: Small clip made from leftover etched brass sheet
Pic 4: When your super glue is running out, or is more
'soup' than 'super' this speeds up the build!
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💬 Cabin Construction Part Two
12 years ago by 🇬🇧 richald ( Master Seaman)
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Decided to keep it simple : have oredered a 1 litre bottle of sanding sealer....
Thanks for your very complimentery posts 😓
Thanks for your very complimentery posts 😓
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