Thanks to Chris F he sent the plans for the Fairey Huntsman. Went to a drafting photo shop had them enlarge the plan to build a 24" boat. Got a start for this project by getting the hull framed in. As this will be a first at skinning a hull with sheet pieces . Research goes on for the best way to start and how to skin the bow.
Rick
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Thanks to Chris F he sent the plans for the Fairey Huntsman. Went to a drafting photo shop had them enlarge the plan to build a 24" boat. Got a start for this project by getting the hull framed in. As this will be a first at skinning a hull with sheet pieces . Research goes on for the best way to start and how to skin the bow.
Rick
Had pieces of 1/32" ply to do the support deck. Built up the bow with strips to take the curves of the the frame. The ply pieces were small leftover and not a full sheet so will piece together to do the deck. Will be planking the deck.
Rick
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Had pieces of 1/32" ply to do the support deck. Built up the bow with strips to take the curves of the the frame. The ply pieces were small leftover and not a full sheet so will piece together to do the deck. Will be planking the deck.
Rick
Hello
My last boat, I skinned the bottom first and added the spray rails.
Next I installed the side skins and added the chine rails.
Last was the deck skins.
I found because I could clamp the spray and chines rails a lot easier as I went !!!!
Able to get sides skinned two sides from keel up. Need to find pieces to do the upper sections. Made the wind shield still needs fine tuning.
Rick
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Somehow I missed the start of this but great stuff Rick, you certainly don't hang about!
The Huntsman 31 is a nice looking hull but that flared bow can be difficult. Mine's a bit bigger at 31" and I managed the double curvature using some very thin ply which I had to put some slits in and an extra frame. Bit of P38 and it doesn't look too bad.
Are you going to modify the transom and fit a stern drive?
Sanded down the sides to shape fine tuning when all the pieces are in place. Received the power unit and started to put in place. Made a wood plate to attach inside the stern to mount the power unit into .
Rick
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Sanded down the sides to shape fine tuning when all the pieces are in place. Received the power unit and started to put in place. Made a wood plate to attach inside the stern to mount the power unit into .
Rick
Wow thats, |I'm stuck for words. SEXY. I love the Idea of outdrives. I fitted one to a 1970's HydroFibre Pipedream, (which I bought 2 of these hulls) back then it was fitted with the outdrive styled on the Volvo Outdrive. The trouble was to get a boat of 52" powered well a 15cc was too heavy on the rear end. So I took it off. I have now 50 years on fitted a different outdrive on and I am going to try a Brushless on it. I had planed to fit my blinged up Zenoah 26cc in the centre of the boat to level it up but everywhere seems to be😠 banning IC powered boats🚤 now.
Side view of the power unit.
Rick
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To me it looks like the drive unit is sitting too high, not enough prop in the water when plaining, it might be an optical from where I looking, just a thought.
All sides now on the boat ready for sanding and filling if needed. My first time doing a boat this way. Pleasing to see the progress in such a quick manner.
Rick
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All sides now on the boat ready for sanding and filling if needed. My first time doing a boat this way. Pleasing to see the progress in such a quick manner.
Rick
The brass prop is a lovely looking prop but wouldn't a sports prop be better. That is the style prop I used on my RAF Crash Tender. You will proably findplaying with other props to get the runing that you want with the hull. With a straight shaft throught the hull I swapped about with quite a few props and a sport style nylon prop was the best.
I look forward to seeing some video on her miaden runs. 👍
Sides now complete and cleaned up sanded down minor filling in spots. Two coats of Eze- Kote sanded in-between each. more coats yet. This build so far has been the least expensive as most of the wood was on hand from other projects.
Rick
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Sides now complete and cleaned up sanded down minor filling in spots. Two coats of Eze- Kote sanded in-between each. more coats yet. This build so far has been the least expensive as most of the wood was on hand from other projects.
Rick
Designed a simple stand for the boat and glued the lower support deck in place.
Rick
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First photo shows the hand rail. Having brass wire and tubing inhouse built the rail. Formed the rail and cut two pieces for the angled pieces. Cut two tubes to fit over the wire filed a hole in the tube for the down pieces to fit into. Silver soldered the down pieces in place. Fine tune when installing.
My first upper structure was off a little sitting on the boat decided to make the structure again. The windows where cut down to 5 from 7 .
Rick
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First photo shows the hand rail. Having brass wire and tubing inhouse built the rail. Formed the rail and cut two pieces for the angled pieces. Cut two tubes to fit over the wire filed a hole in the tube for the down pieces to fit into. Silver soldered the down pieces in place. Fine tune when installing.
My first upper structure was off a little sitting on the boat decided to make the structure again. The windows where cut down to 5 from 7 .
Rick
The pulpit looks very nice indeed. I finished mine off by buying a pack of 10 brass portholes.
"Hobbies" have then.
Then I took the glass out and they make really good finish to holes that the wires go into.
I also made the steps at the back and used the last 4 portholes for that.
Last comment. I have not glued the pulpit or the rear steps in place.
I have never had them come out except when I want to transport the boat.
Its much easier to travel without those two items attached and easy to put in when sailing.
Decided to re-make the wind screen. This one from wood. Both designs showing Wood and Styrene. Mahogany rub rail as I plan to do the deck in Mahogany. Chines are in along with bottom rails.
Rick
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Decided to re-make the wind screen. This one from wood. Both designs showing Wood and Styrene. Mahogany rub rail as I plan to do the deck in Mahogany. Chines are in along with bottom rails.
Rick
A good start to the deck with the first few pieces laid in.
Rick
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More strips in place and up against one side of the superstructure slow but sure gets the job done.
Rick
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Mike Stoney, I'm a retiree but I always say I don't know how I found the time to go to work. We seemed to do loads of things back then. We kept and breed Afghan Hounds and took them to dog shows. Travelled around the country doing that and even got to Crufts with them. We no longer have them as once the last 3 passed away we dicided that it was too upsetting when they die and no longer have them. I even done some building of and went out and played with my R/C Boats. But I don't seem to have the time do half the things we done. I don't seem to understand it. I know my last five years have been bad heath, mainly due to the BIG C and both shoulder Rota Cuff's torn beyond repair. But now C 😊CLEAR. So hoping to get my old Cassic Rover back on the road, the one in my Avatar aand try and get out to play boats. But that will travelling about 20 miles minimum to get to a pond to use them.
Strips complete. Now the work begins. Cleaning up the sides to shape working to not chip the wood. Sanding sanding and more sanding until the finish is smooth enough to seal and finish.
Rick
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Strips complete. Now the work begins. Cleaning up the sides to shape working to not chip the wood. Sanding sanding and more sanding until the finish is smooth enough to seal and finish.
Rick
The hull shape has turned out well. The start to the sanding is progressing as the bow is almost were I want it.
Rick
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Have started sealing with Ezy -Kote I think round 5 or 6 sanding after each coat. More coats to come .
Rick
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Rick, you are doing a great job, makes me think I'll have to do a full refurbishment on my 2 Fairey's as they look decidedly used compared with yours.
Keep it up I'm really enjoying the blog.
Cheers Colin.
Had looked on a hobby shop site to order paint as we are still advised not to go out unless you need to. Had wanted a dark blue to paint the frames and wind screen. The paint received was not dark blue. Turns out the paint ordered was not the color I wanted and not air brush ready. Emptied the paint into a mixing container adding thinner and black until it came to the color I was looking for. With the mixing done painted the frames and wind screen.
Rick
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Had looked on a hobby shop site to order paint as we are still advised not to go out unless you need to. Had wanted a dark blue to paint the frames and wind screen. The paint received was not dark blue. Turns out the paint ordered was not the color I wanted and not air brush ready. Emptied the paint into a mixing container adding thinner and black until it came to the color I was looking for. With the mixing done painted the frames and wind screen.
Rick
The picture shows the color before mixing the black in.
Rick
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Found some wood to do the and rails they will need fine tuning yet. Painted the superstructure first coat of white little imperfections to sort out . The wind screen and hand rails add color to the white,
Rick
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Found some wood to do the and rails they will need fine tuning yet. Painted the superstructure first coat of white little imperfections to sort out . The wind screen and hand rails add color to the white,
Rick
Had wanted to go brushless with this build. With the power unit had ordered a brushless motor as advised in the order form. Ordered a brushless esc to power the motor. After mutable attempts at getting the brushless set up to work and wanting to see the power unit work. Found a motor to hookup the power unit. Installed the servo for steering. Powered the motor and servo all worked well.
Rick
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Had wanted to go brushless with this build. With the power unit had ordered a brushless motor as advised in the order form. Ordered a brushless esc to power the motor. After mutable attempts at getting the brushless set up to work and wanting to see the power unit work. Found a motor to hookup the power unit. Installed the servo for steering. Powered the motor and servo all worked well.
Rick
It souldn't be that hard to set up a brushless motor to the ESC. Also if it runs the wrong way for your propellor all you need to do is just swap two wires over from the ESC to the motor and it will then run the correct way for you. It is just like a three phase motor in miniture. And I am not any good with electrics. My problem is getting advice on the KV on the motor worked out and which batteries to use. Mostly though it comes with the instructions, but I ask my local model shop if in doubt.
Built the sky light and doors. Decided to paint all to add color to the superstructure.
Rick
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When I made my Fairey Huntsman I thought that I needed a highlight around the windows. I bought chrome silver 3mm pinstripe strip for cars but the chrome would not bend around the curves. Start again!
So I tried again with a plastic 2mm pinstripe material from Halfords or Ebay. This worked well.
Then I lacquered the sides and now it's looking good. Car lacquer from Halfords. I only dabbed the tiniest bit of supeglue on the sharp curves only.
That is a realy lovely looking Huntsman. I have one in my shed waiting to be refurbed. It did run but had a small leak on the bottom of the transom on one corner. I think it was from a small knock on the side of the pond, bad manouvering on my part. I am going to run some epoxy down to the rear corner to seal it then she is going 2.4gh and brushless. More speed.😁 I am a spead freak, that's how I end up damaging prop shafts and the rear of the Huntsman.🙈 I have been to specsavers but that still doesn't stop me doing damage.
Added the council; gauges and steering wheel to the interior of the cockpit. Every thing not glued in yet. trying to figure out the height of the seats and what to use under them for height.
Rick
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Added the council; gauges and steering wheel to the interior of the cockpit. Every thing not glued in yet. trying to figure out the height of the seats and what to use under them for height.
Rick
Beautiful Ron. I know that I am rather late on this, but better that than never. This site has some wonderful fittings that you may be interested in for future builds. http://modelsminiatures.com/scale-fittings/
Did not find a captains seat on line. Decided to try and make one. Found a 1/4 piece of white material that Dumas uses in there boats. Using a curling iron formed the contours then cut and shape the chair. Needs fine tuning and paint.
Rick
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Did not find a captains seat on line. Decided to try and make one. Found a 1/4 piece of white material that Dumas uses in there boats. Using a curling iron formed the contours then cut and shape the chair. Needs fine tuning and paint.
Rick
Im starting to think about the cockpit of an abandoned project that I bought for £30 last week. I will use your Dumas inspired chairs idea. Thanks for that.
With the captains chair sorted moved onto the other seats. The stands were built to the same height as the captain's chair the cockpit is slowly coming into focus. Some small areas yet to find a solution to. Figuring out the bits and pieces on a build is demanding but worth while when it all comes together.
Rick
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With the captains chair sorted moved onto the other seats. The stands were built to the same height as the captain's chair the cockpit is slowly coming into focus. Some small areas yet to find a solution to. Figuring out the bits and pieces on a build is demanding but worth while when it all comes together.
Rick
Coming along well Rick. I'm doing a bit more on my Huntsman 31 and Swordsman but they are fitted with a traditional prop shaft.
Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the steering. I shall get back onto my stern-drive model soon but being a Huntress I've got restricted height due to the rear cockpit floor and so I've been looking at putting the servo in the cabin and using snakes, first time I've ever used them.
Boxes built for the storage behind the seats. Need fine tuning yet to fit the space.
Rick
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Purchased 2mx9" metal rod and quick links 2m. hooked the links to the power unit at the top drilled hole in the transom to allow the rods to move for steering. All hooked up to the servo and working well. Pictures did not take will post them later.
Rick
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Purchased 2mx9" metal rod and quick links 2m. hooked the links to the power unit at the top drilled hole in the transom to allow the rods to move for steering. All hooked up to the servo and working well. Pictures did not take will post them later.
Rick
Boatshed - yes, I've been building a Huntress with the same drive for sometime which is where I think Rick got his inspiration from - it's in the Harbour. You messaged me on Mahem about it.
I only mentioned the bellows because it looked as though he had missed your question. It's not the servo causing the lateral so much but the arms on the stern-drive and being close to the transom there's nothing that can me done about it. I don't understand why swinging the servo around would reduce the lateral movement? The servo arms are always going to strike an arc. Servo can't be laid on its side as it's a push pull system.
Internal water cooling setup having all the pieces decided to work on the water pump and reservoir a crude setup for now. Works the way I had hoped. When I get the brushless ESC working will have cooling system for it.
Rick
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Internal water cooling setup having all the pieces decided to work on the water pump and reservoir a crude setup for now. Works the way I had hoped. When I get the brushless ESC working will have cooling system for it.
Rick
Hi Rick, something like this heat exchanger might save weight but give you a similar outcome. I was going to fit it in my 40" seaplane tender a few years ago, but it was too tight a fit under the floorboards. The idea was I could use the boat in salt water, without clogging up the cooling coils. Easy enough to plug in if I ever need to. May make a smaller neater one yet.
Water was pumped in using the large pump, and a small dosing pump was used for circulation. Worked really well, ( I could have even used a bit of antifreeze to prevent corrosion). Body was from an old Italian made aluminium bike pump, (prized possession till my son bent the shaft and knackered it,- had it for 40yrs before that☹️) Piping was a bit rough but was all I had at the time for the experiment.
You'll have to be careful with a closed system, as the ESC tubes will corrode and clog up easily, and you won't notice it. Constantly happens on my HSL with twin 30mm inrunners fitted with water jackets, and that's just running in fresh water, with a normal system, (it even has twin pick-ups in case one clogs) - hence the anti freeze thought for a closed system,- protects aluminium.
Hi JB,
What you doing is what is done on full sized boats ie freshwater cooling or closed system.
Yes, anti-freeze at a 50% solution should work. 👍👍
Trev
Made trim for around the cockpit painted and glued in. Purchased scoops and installed them on the sides.
Rick
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Front hand rail installed and superstructure second coat of paint. Laid small parts on the boat not glued on yet. Pleased with the look and how it is going.
Rick
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Front hand rail installed and superstructure second coat of paint. Laid small parts on the boat not glued on yet. Pleased with the look and how it is going.
Rick
Made and painted the mast glued onto wind screen. Windows glued on. All items glued into cockpit. Unit now finished. Work and paint for the hull.
Rick
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Full speed ahead engines at full. Brushless ESC and motor in and working well. Purchased an Mtroniks esc that has worked out well easy to setup with fast response foreword and reverse. Added bellows to the steering rods to stop egress of water. That's the plan fine tuning to come.
Rick
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Full speed ahead engines at full. Brushless ESC and motor in and working well. Purchased an Mtroniks esc that has worked out well easy to setup with fast response foreword and reverse. Added bellows to the steering rods to stop egress of water. That's the plan fine tuning to come.
Rick
Looking good Rick. You too are coming through with solutions for your project which began as a thought several months ago. Hopefully we will meet up this year and sail our creations together.
Ron
Cut two pieces of brass tube long enough to go through the transom and to fit over the bellows. Epoxied the tubes in place the bellows fit over allowing full movement for steering. Should stop egress of water in threw the tubes.
Rick
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Cut two pieces of brass tube long enough to go through the transom and to fit over the bellows. Epoxied the tubes in place the bellows fit over allowing full movement for steering. Should stop egress of water in threw the tubes.
Rick
So right with your thinking to use ties as that is what I planed to do. I'm looking forward to see her preform also. This project is turning out to be very satisfying in development and build. Support from members their comments and thumbs up help in the build.
Rick
Clips made to hold bellows in place from water egress. Remembered my tin of hose clamps and cable ties found a size to fit. Trimmed and cut to fit.
Rick
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Clips made to hold bellows in place from water egress. Remembered my tin of hose clamps and cable ties found a size to fit. Trimmed and cut to fit.
Rick
Rick,
The submarine guys( I am one as well) will often silicon the bellows to the bellows mount, ie, tube. it is important to make sure that the inside of the bellows is clean, I use acetone or alcohol depending upon the bellows material, and lightly scuff up the tube the bellows will mount upon. As well it is important to wipe the tube down with cleaner after scuffing it. With the silicon in place, asfter a good 24-48 hour cure, the bellows will be securely fastened. No clamp to distort the diameter of the bellows. If you were to leave a hint of room between the bulkhead and the bellows when you install the bellows, you can slide a dental pick in and under the bellows to break the silicon seal, if and when you need to remove or replace it. Last benefit is a reall y neat tidy looking installation.
First coat of white on the hull. Always amazes me the little imperfections that show up. You think by touch and sight the surface is all good. Minor fixes needed before next coat,
Rick
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First coat of white on the hull. Always amazes me the little imperfections that show up. You think by touch and sight the surface is all good. Minor fixes needed before next coat,
Rick
Painted the lower portion of the hull. Clean up and second coat to come. Than sealing finish coats.
Rick
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Second coat of white done and tape removed. Sealing to go.
Rick
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I have three at the moment that I could choose from, there is a 31" Huntsman hull but has no superstructure, thisis how I bought it from Anglia Model Shop, sadly now shut down. Then I have a Stratos Interceptor that I got back in the 1990's. Also a 31" MFA Spearfish. All three have not been started. Then I also have a Aerokit's Sea Commander and an Aerokit's Sea Queen, this one I'm tempted to put my old Taycol Supermarine Double Special. So I have quite a choice. I am sure it would be far too big for my Aerokit's Sea Hornet. Such a brain teaser. I even have a Norstar Sea Rider. Decisions, Decisions.
A few small bits to put on. Wait till spring for water tests. Land tests went well .
Rick
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I usually skin from keel outwards, which works well for me.
Cheers Colin.