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    19

















    Followers
    Amati Riva Aquarama
    by DuncanP ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    17 Posts 52 Comments 0 Photos 97 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    DISASTER! I left my yacht varnish to go hard for nearly 3 weeks. I put standard masking tape on in order to form a line of where to sand the bottom up to the waterline. It was difficult when applying this masking tape to cope with the curves leading up to the bow so I decided to order some 12mm Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves. I also ordered an Edding 0.8mm white marker pen because it was difficult trying to mark and see a pencil maker on the varnish.

    I made up my own waterline marker with clamps and set square and a box with felt feet which made it easy to slide along the side of the hull. It worked OK.

    I then applied the Tamiya Masking tape for curves tape.
    It did the job I wanted but then I noticed a slight kink in it on the transom. I therefore lifted the tape off to reposition it and to my horror this tape pulled the varnish off! The other standard masking tape was fine. I therefore decided to take the tape off the rest of the hull and again in one place it has pulled the yacht varnish off! It would not have been so bad if it had just been the transom that I would have to sand and repaint but now it will be the whole hull again!! One step forward and 4 backwards. Depressing.
    Any suggestions for masking up again after revarnishing without having the other problem of bleeding!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    For the final coat of varnish I used to 2000 grade sandpaper. Perhaps it was too fine. I've now sanded it down with 1200 grade paper and recoated the varnish. I've had my electric radiator on as well so the temperature was 20degrees C before starting to varnish - but I will switch off soon otherwise I won't be able to afford the electric bill! How long do you suggest leaving the varnish to harden before applying masking tape? My man cave is normally about 14degrees during the day during these mild days that we are unexpectedly experiencing at the moment. I have a dehumidifier in there keeping it between 60 and 70 humidity. Thanks Duncan. ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by Len ( Master Seaman)
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    for what its worth it seams that the varnish has not adhered well to the substrate and/or has not entirely cured. I would be concerned with the varnish lifting on its own over a period of time
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by LewZ ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Masking for my models: I use blue masking tape which gives me a good edge. As for those curved surfaces, I lay down a section of masking tape, maybe 12 - 18 inches long keeping it straight. Using a sharp cutting tool and a steel straight edge I cut a strip (or multiple), maybe 1/8 inch wide (depending on the curve) and use that on the model burnish it down good to get a sealed edge. Then you can add wider tape to that.
    Lew
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Duncan,

    What a shame, but such is the nature of model building. If you are only having to take four steps backwards, you are not doing too badly.

    I also like Frog tape. Readily available at the diy sheds in the UK

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    Oh! such a shame, devastating but recoverable. Masking tape can be a nightmare for many reasons I have been using Tamiya for a while, it seems the stickier they are the more trouble they cause.
    Everything will be great in the end she is still a model to be proud of and in time it will be funny story to tell.
    Regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by Colin H ( Admiral)
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    Duncan, sorry to hear of your problems, but for the tape to pull Varnish off sounds like your Varnish hadn't bonded with the wood.
    I only ever had that happen once on a boat I was restoring and it turned out that the wood still had moisture in it.
    I had to put it in the airing cupboard for a week before it was fully dry.
    After it was fully dry I re-sanded and fresh Varnish, masked and repainted below the waterline without any problems.
    I use Frog tape for complex shapes as it's easy to work round the shape.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: DISASTER has struck!!
    1 month ago by pressonreguardless ( Commander)
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    I have used Frog Tape for delicate surfaces. I apply the tape; paint immediately and immediately remove the tape before the paint dries.
    Good Luck!
    Trev
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    ๐Ÿ“ Gluing fittings
    2 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thank you for all your suggestions for gluing the fittings onto the decks. I will experiment with your ideas and then choose. Cheers Duncan
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    ๐Ÿ“ Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Everyone. Managed to get 4 coats of varnish onto first of all the decks and then onto the hull sides. The bottom had 4 coats earlier in the build. I will need to polish out the dust specks eventually. I tried really hard to avoid any dust by sanding and wiping down outside but still got dust specks! I've started to build the dashboard which I found very fiddly and inevitably got some CA glue on my figures even though I was using reverse tweezers. Unfortunately, the simulated light switches seem to have the glass domes missing from the kit so I've raided my wife's bead box and managed to find some small coloured beads to make the domed fronts of the light switches! I still need to fit the key sockets and keys, plus the gear levers and steering wheel to the dashboard. After a lot of messing about with paints for the seats I have found the Tamiya TS10 French Blue spray paint to be the best match. Having sprayed them I have then sprayed them with a Matt lacquer finish over the top of these seats. I decided to separate the seat sides from the main part of the seat to make the painting job easier as after my first attempt I found some leakage under the masking tape. I've just ordered an Edding white 0.8mm permanent marker to create my waterline mark prior to painting the bottom of the hull white. I couldn't see the pencil maker clearly on the varnish and this marker writes on glass and metal and is waterproof - so it should be OK. Pity in a way I'm going to be covering up the lovely mahogany bottom with white paint but in the end I think it will look better. I bought a 13mm wood drill from the Blackpool Model boat show to create the two holes for the cabin skylights. I drilled these holes with great trepidation! Added a touch of varnish around the inside of the holes afterwards. Just a warning to anyone else building this model - I measured the distance from the dashboard to the centre of the skylight on the full size plan. Unfortunately, this turned out to be right over one of the bulkheads which then involved cutting away a small portion on each side for the skylights. Once the bottom has been painted white, I will be able to get on with the deck fittings. Any suggestions for best glue for chromed brass fittings to be attached to the varnished decks. I wondered about using my Deluxe Cockpit canopy glue - any thoughts?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Captain)
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    Beautiful work Duncan,
    I would agree with JBs recommendation.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by pressonreguardless ( Commander)
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    Great resolution, JB๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Trev
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Terrific job, dash is looking great. For the fittings, if at all possible, drill a 1mm hole for a pin in the bottoms, making the pins a tight fit and cyanoing (tiny dab of gel not liquid) them in, then drill holes in the deck for the pins and glue them in with a slower setting glue. If you glue the fittings onto the varnish and you knock them, you are liable to rip a patch or layer of varnish off with them, as the joint is only as strong as the top coat of varnish. Don't use cyano on the varnish as it might bloom and ruin the surface.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by pressonreguardless ( Commander)
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    Dash looks great Duncan.
    for mounting hardware to the deck you could try double sided mounting tape available on amazon. Do a trial run first on scrap to test.
    Trev
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by DWBrinkman ( Midshipman)
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    What a gorgeous boat! Superb workmanship, the varnish finish is superb.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Varnishing complete!
    2 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    Absolutely amazing varnish work, difficult to find better and I think the white bottom will enhance the varnish work and not detract from it, my opinion only I hasten to add.
    The detail you are building into the dash is quite something, an all round beautiful model to be very proud of.
    Regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ“ Deck Planking
    2 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Just a bit of an update. Finished the deck planking which took quite a long time to complete! I've applied a couple of coats of sanding sealer onto the deck and also applied some sealer to the saxboards before gluing to avoid any glue staining. I found fitting these saxboards quite difficult as they need to bend in two directions. I heated them in boiling water and then applied them to the deck with masking tape and left them to dry for a couple of days to take on the shape of the deck. It was only semi successful. I then glued them on the deck and held them in place using strong car masking tape. I've had to do some filling using aliphatic glue and mahogany dust mix in places as I couldn't get it to follow the contours exactly. Fitting the rear removal hatches was also a bit of a challenge but got there in the end! Will soon be ready to apply the first coat of varnish - followed by several more coats. Weather is turning colder so my 'man cave' at the back of my garage is not very warm to work in. I'm worried about putting the heater on with the cost of electricity these days because it takes a lot of heating up. 'Catch 22'!!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Planking
    2 months ago by Colin H ( Admiral)
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    That's a fantastic finish, do you really need to paint the bottom?
    I've seen a few real ones that were not painted, and they looked fantastic.
    As for the fittings, I prefer to pin or screw if possible, if you must glue Varnish a scrap of wood and check it doesn't react with the glue before using on your model.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Planking
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Great job, looks really smart๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Planking
    2 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    Lovely decking and yes to get it looking as good as you have does take lots of time, this is ok if you have other parts of the build to be carrying on with but frustrating if you have to keep walking away.
    My goodness me though very much worth it in the end.
    Regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Planking
    2 months ago by Norway ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    It's looking good. All your hard work is paying off.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Planking
    2 months ago by pressonreguardless ( Commander)
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    Looks Great, Duncan
    Trev
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    ๐Ÿ“ Mahogany side planking finished
    4 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Eventually managed to get all the mahogany planking applied on top of the lime planking finished. Spent the best part of 1.5 days sanding down the mahogany to a smooth finish. Just applied 3 coats of cellulose sanding sealer. The striped planking needs to be started on the foredeck next. I decided to apply the sanding sealer now before I do the final planking of the foredeck. No matter how careful I was a bit of glue got on the top of the mahogany topsides and it leaves a mark that is impossible to remove. In hind sight I think that it would have been better to have applied sanding sealer to these upper parts BEFORE fitting them! Wise after the event!
    Yellow masking tape was applied to the foredeck so that the raw wood I need to glue the striped planking to isn't contaminated with sealer. I think the wood is looking lovely! Very pleased with the results as this is my first attempt at planking. I'll update again when the foredeck is complete.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Everyone,
    Managed to find several hours in my busy timetable (Raising and doing basic training of a Guide Dog Puppy plus doing some fund raising!).
    I've finished the 1st layer of the side planking and planked the foredeck. As can be seen from the photo I used my hot plank bender to get the curved deck planks. The deck may look level but as you can see from the plank on the grid there is a fair bend. Unlike the instructions I have decided to plank the stern before gluing the mahogany ends onto the hull. Otherwise trying to fit these as a close fit to the mahogany curved piece would I believe be more difficult. Again I will apply the mahogany planks before fitting these curved ends. I've used a water based filler thinned down over the hull and then sanded to a reasonably smooth finish before starting the job to finish the mahogany planking of the sides and foredeck. I've tried to keep as much dust out of the hull with paper towel! Before starting the sanding I applied automotive masking tape (thicker) along the raw edge of the existing mahogany planking to protect this during sanding.
    Following a recommendation by Skydive130 I've painted the metal parts and part of the steering wheel with a chrome pen. The chrome pen is fantastic and far superior to any 'chrome' spray can. Also I tried a few spray cans of car colour for the seat cushions but found the Valero light turquoise was the best colour to use. Because it is water based I've then put a coat of matt varnish over the top to protect it.
    I now need to find a lot of time to do the final mahogany planking so my next instalment will probably be quite some weeks away! Thanks for following my blog. Cheers Duncan๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    2 months ago by RonB ( Master Seaman)
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    Thats smart, Iam just starting the new decking on Barbara so I could be looking for some tips๐Ÿ˜‡
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by BOATSHED ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Many thanks for putting this on here. I wil get on there and have a search for them on Amazon.I will be using them on my radio controlled model cars as well as my boats. The finish looks amazing. Thanks again.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hiya. I got the chrome pen off Amazon. It is a Molotow liquid chrome pump marker pen. I was amazed with the finish it gives. I've even used it to touch up a mark on the chrome of my car. There are different thickness of markers starting at 1mm and going up to 5mm. I used the 2mm one which was ยฃ5.82. Hope this helps. Cheers Duncan ๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Boatshed,
    You can find them on Amazon, just ordered mine from Amazon.de.
    Or go straight to the manufacturer-
    MOLOTOWโ„ขโ€จ
    Feuerstein GmbHโ€จ
    Willy-Brandt-Str. 9/2โ€จ
    77933 Lahr / Schwarzwald
    Germany
    In very pretty landscape in Southwest Germany, worth a trip๐Ÿ˜‰
    https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/...
    https://shop.molotow.com/en/alle-produkte/molotow-liquid-chrome-4mm.html?___from_store=de
    BEWARE! The Trade Mark for the pens is MOLOTOW
    so don't try mixing cocktails with them ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://shop.molotow.com/en/alle-produkte/molotow-liquid-chrome-4mm.html?___from_store=de
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by BOATSHED ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi DuncanP, I am very curious to know where did you get the chrome pen from please. It looks realy good. I have used a chrome spray on a couple of things when I was working on things underneath my motohome when rebuilding the rear suspension and I wasn't too inpressed. But for on modeling that looks great.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Almost ready for final mahogany planking
    6 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    Love the model and am looking forward to seeing her in the water, well done with the build.
    First time I have heard about the chrome pen, I will certainly be trying that.
    Regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ“ Paper clips helpful when planking
    7 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Just a small update. Nearly finished the first layer of planking. I thought this tip maybe of help others when planking. I found that as I nearly completed the the 1st layer of planking I could no longer use bulldog clips to assist in butting the edges of the planks together. Instead I have found using paper clips does this job well in tight confines. I still nail the planks to the bulkheads but between the bulkheads it helps to keep the plank edges tight together. Keeping the plank edges as smooth as possible will no doubt help in cutting down the tedious job of sanding it smooth before applying the mahogany planks! I've added some foam buoyancy in the transom for safety!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Paper clips helpful when planking
    7 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thank you for your comment (mturpin013)๐Ÿ˜†. I then had a look at your RAF crash tender. It looks absolutely amazing! Is it the 34" or 46" version. I have the 34" model which I made in my 20's and then refurbished it during lockdown having spent about 50 years in the loft and garage. It is unfortunately not up to your standard! I found yours very intriguing especially the wheelhouse. Mine was built from the original Aerokits kit. Have you done a blog on the build of the boat? Thanks Duncan.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Paper clips helpful when planking
    7 months ago by mturpin013 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Great tip on โ€œtight boardsโ€ paper clip is so simple, most good solutions are simple
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    ๐Ÿ“ Overcoming difficulty of fitting rudders and linkages
    7 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hopefully the photos that I'm attaching will explain why I'm not following the instructions for a radio control version! The Amati instructions indicate that the rudders and control linkages are fitted at the end of the hull construction. I decided that this will be virtually impossible to get your hands in to accomplish this task so I have planked almost up to the waterline with both 1st and second planking in order to still have some reasonable access to carry out this task. In order to protect the rudders whilst the rest of the hull is completed I've cut out a polystyrene block (or could be balsa blocks) and covered it in gaffer tape to go over the prop shafts and rudders to provide the protection.
    It still took all afternoon to get the supplied R/C rudders in place. I've C/A glued a nut onto the bottom of each rudder horn. I found that with the shape of the hull, the rudders when turned fully were catching the bottom of the hull so I've added two small 2mm white plastic spacers which I made from some tubing. Hope this will help anyone else who attempts to build the R/C version of the kit! Next stage is to epoxy the inside below the waterline before continuing with the rest of the planking. I've also installed a 3mm light in the cabin and also added 3mm bulbs for the headlights rather than using the dummy headlights.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Overcoming difficulty of fitting rudders and linkages
    7 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    The hull of your model shown bow on is very impressive, beautiful lines.
    I can see that you are having real fun and games trying to shoehorn the steering gear under the stern deck, I don`t think there is an easy answer, on my current project I have abandoned all thoughts of a working model mainly due to space constraints and if good enough it will spend the rest of its days on a coffee table if the boss allows. That of course is not what you want to hear ๐Ÿค”
    I am looking forward to following your build, when finished it will be worth all of the problems.
    Regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ“ 1st coat of varnish
    8 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Everyone, Just a small update on progress. Having applied several coats of Cellulose Sanding sealer I have now applied one coat of yacht varnish. Hopefully you can see from the photos the reason I decided to apply the masking tape. This was to protect a raw wood edge in order to get a good bond to glue to when I start the side planking. I'm pleased with the overall finish so far. I forgot to do a test of the varnish on the sealer so there were a few anxious hours of waiting hoping that they wouldn't react with each other!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 1st coat of varnish
    8 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    It is the 1st time I have tried building a planked model. I think the main thing is taking your time. I spent quite a lot of time cutting and then sanding the end of the planks to get a really good fit. I started build in April 2021!! Having said that I probably only fitted no more than 4 planks per day to give the glue time to set hard.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 1st coat of varnish
    8 months ago by DWBrinkman ( Midshipman)
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    Very nice work! I only hope to someday get close to that kind of modeling skill!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 1st coat of varnish
    8 months ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Looking good. Nice neat planking enhanced by the excellent paint finish.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 1st coat of varnish
    8 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    She looks great, fabulous gloss already. The invention of water based paints has caused the likes of most of us a real `faff` it was great in the day when we did not have to worry about one paint reacting badly with another. They should have restricted water based to emulsion, sorry in my opinion๐Ÿ˜ ๐Ÿ˜ .
    Well done Duncan regards ChrisG
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    ๐Ÿ“ Amati Italian Runabout (Riva Aquarama) for use on water
    8 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I've completed the second layer of mahogany planking on the bottom of the hull and have now applied the first coat of Chestnut Sanding sealer which will require sanding before another coat is applied. Before applying the sealer I applied Vaseline to the BBQ bamboo skewers to ensure they didn't get stuck in the rudder tubes (they are a perfect fit!) and also applied the yellow masking tape around the last planks fitted in order to ensure a raw wood edge when I'm gluing the side planking on after fitting the rudders and linkages (This method of build is the only way I believe I can get my fingers in to fit these parts!). My plan then is to do another coat of sanding sealer and then two coats of yacht varnish. Not sure whether I should also apply a finishing epoxy resin coat before doing the varnishing. Any thoughts? The bottom of the hull will then be painted with white enamel - Humbrol. The sides once fitted will be the beautiful mahagony. That is my thoughts so far. Any comments please?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Amati Italian Runabout (Riva Aquarama) for use on water
    8 months ago by DuncanP ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks Trev. In that case I'll probably just epoxy the inside of the hull which is still bare wood. I just want to make sure it is water tight so that I don't get any water damage ! ๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Amati Italian Runabout (Riva Aquarama) for use on water
    8 months ago by pressonreguardless ( Commander)
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    I don't think the Epoxy is necessary at this point. If it is used it should be applied on raw wood.
    Also use the correct hardener to achieve a clear finish. Total Boat and West have these hardeners.
    Good Luck
    Trev
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Amati Italian Runabout (Riva Aquarama) for use on water
    8 months ago by ChrisG ( Warrant Officer)
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    Sounds good and certainly looks good to me, that mahogany and the quality of the planking you have achieved should not be covered in my opinion. I am not sure why you are thinking of epoxy finish as well as two coats of varnish, maybe because I find epoxy a lot more difficult to work with than varnish and if varnishing is carried out well the finish can be fantastic as well as giving adequate protection.
    Whatever the model is coming along very well you should
    be proud. Regards ChrisG
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