Thank you for the comments!

Just a very quick update before I begin the trying and fitting, trying and fitting, repeat, repeat, repeat.
These are the things that take such a long time and very little progress shows.

The first two photos show the general arrangement of the deck and coaming that will take some time to finesse.
I'm reluctant to hazard what the fellow in the third image is thinking. Most likely not appropriate for a family site such as this.

There hasn't been a lot of progress that shows, but some of the mundane items have been tended to. The forward and main bulkheads are epoxied in permanently after attaching the hatches closer hardware.
Patterns for the deck and cabin roof have been made and the false deck/roof laid out and roughed to shape. Still a lot of finesse is needed for a good fit.
I've also made up five sets of frames and marked the hull where they're to be installed. These frames are not required for this hull, but will be installed to facilitate attaching the floor stringers, fuel tank brackets, and seat stringer.

Photos:
1.thru 4. making up patterns and fitting the false deck and cabin roof, plus the rudder and wheel arrangement.

5. & 6. Laying out and marking the frame stations.

7. thru 9. The forward bulkhead and cabin hatches fastening method. these are just a small hook at the bottom of the hatch to retain the bottoms in place and a small magnet glued to the top corners which engage tin flashing shaped around and glued to the strip jams.

10. As with other builds I have found "fenders" in some most unlikely places. I have also "trained" my adult daughter (who frequents antique stores and flea markets ,) to keep an eye out for crochet tassels as found on some home made ladies purses and hand bags. She sent me this find recently which will produce nine excellent fenders for this build. With what she paid for the purse, the fenders come out to less than a dollar (US) a piece. I couldn't make them for that.

Here's one of those side trips that I alluded to in an earlier post.

In the drawings there were two 10"X36" fuel tanks one each port and starboard under the benches. No particular fittings were called out, so I suppose it was "builder's discretion" as to how they were plumbed. If my calcs are remotely in the ball park, a 10"X36" tank doesn't hold very much fuel. (Surely you didn't think I was going to hazard my volume guess amongst you wizards?) however, I can with some authority proclaim that two of these tanks will double the volume of just one!😊
Short of a sounding stick, I don't know how one would determine the remaining fuel in either tank unless they were fitted with electric gauges. Running a wire from a sealed and painted closet dowel to simulate an electric gauge would be the sensible thing to do.
OR, find a short length of 1 1/4" copper pipe, cut it to represent 36" in scale (4 1/2") cut some discs of copper flashing, solder these to the pipe, and polish the whole thing. Now, to determine the fuel level...sight glasses. In 1:1 context the sight glasses probably wouldn't satisfy the authorities, but I'm reasonably certain in 1:8 scale no one is going to inadvertently kick out the glass.
Although these are not complete, here's where we are. I think they'll work.

The photo's:

1. using a 1/16" acrylic rod for the "glass", and drilling out a cabin-top grab rail stanchion to 1/16" provided the upper and lower valves. (The valve wheels are yet to be installed.)

2. Work in progress.

3. If the authorities find out we're using off-road fuel they may take a dim view of the operation.

4. I contemplated installing a couple of safety rods down both sides of the glass as would be done in the full sized installation to protect the glass, (and may still,) but here's where this little excursion is as of this update.

Two or three years ago an older modeler passed on and left his tools, parts and pieces behind. As is often the case, the son had little interest in the hobby so advertised the items for sale. I don't remember where I even saw the ad, but responded more out of curiosity than anything else. The son and I corresponded via email a few times with him sending images of box-lots of what was available, Towards the end of our correspondence he mentioned there was a boat hull that he knew nothing about, but apparently had not generated any interest and I could have it for a few dollars and shipping. I didn't need another hull and particularly didn't need a 'glass lapstrake boat, but thought it might be worth something down-stream as trading material, or someone may want it. The alternative was it would end up in a New Jersey landfill. ☹️
I received it about a week later, checked it out, and shelved it in the "stash" group.
A while ago I was idly thumbing through a book with page after page of study plans and blew by a launch-type hull that was carvel planked. A couple of days later the plan resurfaced in my mind's eye and I looked it up again and thought the 'glass hull in a 1:8 scale would be close enough to loosely emulate these lines. The inspiration drawings were drawn by a fellow named Nelson Zimmer out of the greater Detroit MI area. My apologies to Mr. Zimmer as I've taken some subtle liberties with his drawing, all the while keeping the basic profile of his design. His title for the boat was "Utility Launch" at 23'3" and the hull I have is 35". Close enough for my purposes.
In this opening "chapter' I have drilled the shaft log hole, determined the log angle, and built a platform for the motor and drive pulley. Given enough room I like the timing belt method of propulsion as they're not real particular about alignment, (that's not to say some care isn't necessary to set up the drive,) they just seem to be quieter, plus one can experiment with different pulleys to come to a good efficient RPM for the propeller.

Photos:

1. A cursory general beginning.
2. determining that everything is "on the level." (This of course starts with the bench the build is on)
3. The propulsion will be a six volt system. One larger battery didn't fit well anywhere in the hull given the open midships area, so I tried two smaller batts in the ends which will be hooked up in parallel. There was some ballast required anyway, so doing a tub test proved this a viable solution.
4, 5, & 6. The forward and main bulkheads. After the time invested in these, I decided both need some modifications. Once the forward deck is in place retrieving the forward battery can be done through the hatch, but it would have been tight with the middle open cockpit benches, flooring, and "stuff". Keeping in mind this was only a 23' launch the 1:1 main bulkhead was originally designed with the bi-fold doors as shown which was a help to access the engine. I'm thinking of reconfiguring this arrangement as well.

I'd name this "Knot Likely", but it's knot a speed likely boat... 😊