Started the latest project. Spotted these nice 105mm rubber tyred wheels in the big hardware store, and thought they deserved having something to be attached to,- hence the new project.😁
Scratch building using my 'cut it and see' method 😁 Started with a 20x20mm ally angle frame (main V from one piece angle cut and bent with bent and bolted rear cross bar) Rear axle is 10x1mm ally tube, with stub axles (from 10mm bright steel) turned down to fit inside and turned down for a 6mm securing Nyloc nut, and a rear shoulder for the wheels.
Stub axles and tube are drilled through 3mm and secured with 3mm machine screws.
Front axle is 6mm rod from an old sponge mop, and is bent and angled for a bit of reverse castor. 50x3mm ally strip added to the front of the frame for reinforcing and to mount 'stuff' to. The front steering head bush is 10mm bright steel drilled 6mm to be attached to?
Tune in next time for another thrilling instalment😁
JB
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Started the latest project. Spotted these nice 105mm rubber tyred wheels in the big hardware store, and thought they deserved having something to be attached to,- hence the new project.😁
Scratch building using my 'cut it and see' method 😁 Started with a 20x20mm ally angle frame (main V from one piece angle cut and bent with bent and bolted rear cross bar) Rear axle is 10x1mm ally tube, with stub axles (from 10mm bright steel) turned down to fit inside and turned down for a 6mm securing Nyloc nut, and a rear shoulder for the wheels.
Stub axles and tube are drilled through 3mm and secured with 3mm machine screws.
Front axle is 6mm rod from an old sponge mop, and is bent and angled for a bit of reverse castor. 50x3mm ally strip added to the front of the frame for reinforcing and to mount 'stuff' to. The front steering head bush is 10mm bright steel drilled 6mm to be attached to?
Tune in next time for another thrilling instalment😁
Have now bolted on the adjustable mast step plate, (ally 50x3mm) welded the steering neck bush to the hinge, (tricky Mig-ing such a small item, so a bit ugly), added an angle adjusting stop bolt (rake may need adjusting for best steering) machined a pivoting mast step (intended to have the mast folding to fit in the car)- drilled and tapped for a 5mm attachment bolt, but found it was too much trouble having stays, (a backstay was a problem).
I wanted it to be quick to set up so I'll make a new one. I've cut some 10x3mm ally tube for the mast (1m) and boom (360mm), and made a brass double pivoting gooseneck for the boom.
More exciting stuff next time😁
JB
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Have now bolted on the adjustable mast step plate, (ally 50x3mm) welded the steering neck bush to the hinge, (tricky Mig-ing such a small item, so a bit ugly), added an angle adjusting stop bolt (rake may need adjusting for best steering) machined a pivoting mast step (intended to have the mast folding to fit in the car)- drilled and tapped for a 5mm attachment bolt, but found it was too much trouble having stays, (a backstay was a problem).
I wanted it to be quick to set up so I'll make a new one. I've cut some 10x3mm ally tube for the mast (1m) and boom (360mm), and made a brass double pivoting gooseneck for the boom.
New mast step made to take the 10mm mast tube. Mast tube has a tight fitting 8mm dowel tapped into it to about half way, for a bit of extra strength. Step has a 5mm threaded hole in the bottom to bolt to the adj plate.
Made rear axle clamps from a nylon door handle rod. Cut to size, clamped in the mill vice in pairs and drilled 9.5mm to suit the 10mm axle, then drilled to fit the rear frame on bent ally 10x3mm strengthening angles. This makes it easy to replace the axle, or move it sideways for later planned ballasted speed runs.
Next job will be completing the steering system. (more exiting stuff 😁)
JB
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New mast step made to take the 10mm mast tube. Mast tube has a tight fitting 8mm dowel tapped into it to about half way, for a bit of extra strength. Step has a 5mm threaded hole in the bottom to bolt to the adj plate.
Made rear axle clamps from a nylon door handle rod. Cut to size, clamped in the mill vice in pairs and drilled 9.5mm to suit the 10mm axle, then drilled to fit the rear frame on bent ally 10x3mm strengthening angles. This makes it easy to replace the axle, or move it sideways for later planned ballasted speed runs.
Next job will be completing the steering system. (more exiting stuff 😁)
Rained all day, so managed to install a rear ply deck to hold the servos and various bits and pieces, also made 2 pulleys from 30mm Diam Acetal, and a steering collar for the front axle. The collar has two 3mm bolts for the steering cord to be tied to, (just string for testing at the moment) which will go back to the 20kg digital servo. It's screwed to the steering shaft with two 5mm machine screws which locate on flats on the shaft
The pulleys are arranged on a 3mm brass rod axle (soldered to a brass strip) to line up with the angle of the steering head. Seems to work quite well manually. Pulleys can wander a bit to self align as the angle changes slightly.
The rear deck is coated with aircraft dope to seal the ply,- dries in minutes.
Working on the steering set-up next. More rain and floods, still, so able to get things done.
JB
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Rained all day, so managed to install a rear ply deck to hold the servos and various bits and pieces, also made 2 pulleys from 30mm Diam Acetal, and a steering collar for the front axle. The collar has two 3mm bolts for the steering cord to be tied to, (just string for testing at the moment) which will go back to the 20kg digital servo. It's screwed to the steering shaft with two 5mm machine screws which locate on flats on the shaft
The pulleys are arranged on a 3mm brass rod axle (soldered to a brass strip) to line up with the angle of the steering head. Seems to work quite well manually. Pulleys can wander a bit to self align as the angle changes slightly.
The rear deck is coated with aircraft dope to seal the ply,- dries in minutes.
Working on the steering set-up next. More rain and floods, still, so able to get things done.
Fitted a 20kg digital servo in the deck for the steering, and made up the steering lines. Made a tie bar as well for the hinged steering head to hold it in position. Trimmed the front axle and added a small collet/keeper as an extra security item.
Next job will be the mainsheet servo arm winch set-up, not a lot of room, so will need some thought.
JB
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Fitted a 20kg digital servo in the deck for the steering, and made up the steering lines. Made a tie bar as well for the hinged steering head to hold it in position. Trimmed the front axle and added a small collet/keeper as an extra security item.
Next job will be the mainsheet servo arm winch set-up, not a lot of room, so will need some thought.
Have the mainsheet system mostly sorted. Using a 20kg digital MG servo for the 'winch' arm and 100% yacht fairleads for guides. The dowel guides the sheet round the steering servo arm to keep it from catching. The radio gear (RX, UBEC and battery monitor are all housed in the plastic clip top container, which is bolted to the deck.
The green NiMH RX pack shown was just for testing. Now will use a 2s 1800mah LiPo for the servos. This is mounted behind the box and secured with a velcro strap. To make the mainsheet quick to remove, it ends in a tube type jamming cleat, with a tapered dowel ' security' plug pushed in from the back.
The yacht is going to have a full body, so it needs something easy for setting up. As it is, it takes 15 seconds to plug in the mast and run the mainsheet for set-up, and about 5 secs to remove the mast. The body will have the appropriate hatches to facilitate easy setting up.
JB
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Have the mainsheet system mostly sorted. Using a 20kg digital MG servo for the 'winch' arm and 100% yacht fairleads for guides. The dowel guides the sheet round the steering servo arm to keep it from catching. The radio gear (RX, UBEC and battery monitor are all housed in the plastic clip top container, which is bolted to the deck.
The green NiMH RX pack shown was just for testing. Now will use a 2s 1800mah LiPo for the servos. This is mounted behind the box and secured with a velcro strap. To make the mainsheet quick to remove, it ends in a tube type jamming cleat, with a tapered dowel ' security' plug pushed in from the back.
The yacht is going to have a full body, so it needs something easy for setting up. As it is, it takes 15 seconds to plug in the mast and run the mainsheet for set-up, and about 5 secs to remove the mast. The body will have the appropriate hatches to facilitate easy setting up.
Mechanicals seemed to be working ok, so it was time for a bit of bodywork. Using 5mm sheet for the sides, and 2.5mm for the top, Body will be removable, but the main part bolted on and access to the bits and pieces/battery/setting up will be by 2 top hatches. Whole thing will be glassed when finished.
JB
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Mechanicals seemed to be working ok, so it was time for a bit of bodywork. Using 5mm sheet for the sides, and 2.5mm for the top, Body will be removable, but the main part bolted on and access to the bits and pieces/battery/setting up will be by 2 top hatches. Whole thing will be glassed when finished.
Bodywork almost ready for glassing. There are 2 mid hatches and the rear removable radio box cover. I've fitted the RX and UBEC in a smaller container now, moved the jamming cleat to the front compartment, and added another plastic tube covered mainsheet 'turning' dowel to keep the arm pulling the sheet as it gets past 135deg - effectiveness drops off as the arm gets towards 180deg. ( Initial 90deg servo issue was sorted to 180deg with Grahams' help.) Also moved the battery to the second compartment to make it easier to get at.
I might have failed to mention, that this model is 4ft long (1220mm) O/A with a 39inch (1m) mast, and the rear axle track is 22in.(560mm)
JB
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Bodywork almost ready for glassing. There are 2 mid hatches and the rear removable radio box cover. I've fitted the RX and UBEC in a smaller container now, moved the jamming cleat to the front compartment, and added another plastic tube covered mainsheet 'turning' dowel to keep the arm pulling the sheet as it gets past 135deg - effectiveness drops off as the arm gets towards 180deg. ( Initial 90deg servo issue was sorted to 180deg with Grahams' help.) Also moved the battery to the second compartment to make it easier to get at.
I might have failed to mention, that this model is 4ft long (1220mm) O/A with a 39inch (1m) mast, and the rear axle track is 22in.(560mm)
Hi F/buck, the idea for brakes was for speed runs and filming by myself. The yacht could be held in a position further up the beach, ready to sheet the sail in when set to film a 'fly-by'. Unless I can persuade my son to carry the yacht up the beach or carpark on a bike to release it, (phone work involved) The wind's not always in the best position for tacking up the beach. On a good day, I could get a 3km run down the entire beach, if I stood in the middle, (safe radio range)
I wonder whether the beach is one I have visited when on North Island in 2003.
I hope your optimism about standing in the middle of a long run is rewarded. I have this gut feeling that you will have to deal with a number of overturns before you manage a long run. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you !😉
Managed to glass the body last night,(6oz cloth) but will need another coat of resin (polyester) and a few repairs, as it was too cold and damp really to do it. Took a whole day to set properly, but I should have added more catalyst to compensate. I'll make a 'hotter' batch for the final coat which should re-activate the first coat a bit.
I've wiped the first coat down with meths to remove the wax, and help the second to bond. Might have to wait till it stops raining (so far a years worth + in 7 months round most of the country !) Must be a fine day coming soon, - we're getting waterlogged!
JB
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Managed to glass the body last night,(6oz cloth) but will need another coat of resin (polyester) and a few repairs, as it was too cold and damp really to do it. Took a whole day to set properly, but I should have added more catalyst to compensate. I'll make a 'hotter' batch for the final coat which should re-activate the first coat a bit.
I've wiped the first coat down with meths to remove the wax, and help the second to bond. Might have to wait till it stops raining (so far a years worth + in 7 months round most of the country !) Must be a fine day coming soon, - we're getting waterlogged!
I've only used poly on models Trav, and never had a problem sticking it to wood, just need to work it in well, never been game to try it on full sized boats though. I used epoxy on my last restored 12ft racing dinghy, and it's stuck well. You can make poly more flexible by adding micro balloons etc, -
You did well using it on your dingy.
Cold molded boats are laid up with epoxy and cedar and are exceptional strong.
If epoxy takes a hit does not separate. Polyester will.
Epoxy resin with the appropriate filler is use to coat Fiberglass hulls that suffer from Boat Pox. That is a blistering of the hull due to water permeating the gel coat.
Trev
Second coat of resin done despite the cold weather making it difficult, (lots of heaters going)$$$ Have also given it a coat of Zinser BIN primer to seal it, done a bit of fairing with auto bog, and another primer coat. (pics tomorrow.)
JB
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Second coat of resin done despite the cold weather making it difficult, (lots of heaters going)$$$ Have also given it a coat of Zinser BIN primer to seal it, done a bit of fairing with auto bog, and another primer coat. (pics tomorrow.)
Steady on Dave,😁 thanks, but my hat won't fit after all that lol😂 I like to try different things as a challenge, keeps the brain alive. Like a lot of modellers, it seems to me, that from an idea, the building, testing, and getting something going as intended is most of the fun. Always been building something, built the boat (my design, pic) in 1973. Had a 75hp Flying Scott and did 50mph,- scary but fun.