Hi Me Lads
Well the Club 500 and Sea Scout were two of the boats I sold to a club member.
Does a Dumas Kit No.1255, Chris Craft racing boat(1964 year) class in the classic section ??

As I just bought one 90% finished with 6 channel 2.4G radio, brushless 3542-1450kv. 60 Amp ESC.
Only to finish adding the fittings ,interior and maybe the funny wing things on the sides which are missing.
Harry

Hi canabus,
And to sunny Tasmania, I envy your weather we ar just very cold here in the UK.
I loved the video of your Sea Scout.
There is just something about the way that these Aerokit models ride the water.🚤🚤
It just excites me. I LOVE them. I got my forst RAF Crash Tender when I was 9 years
old and I have been a speed freak 🚤🚤with them ever since.
I thouroly enjoyed your video.
nd plese send us up some sunny weather.

Nice video Harry - your Classic Model Power Boats are running well!

The Aerokits Sea Rover certainly has some pace and looks very stable on the water without its deep keel, and your Aeokits Sea Scout looks good too!

Stay safe,

Bob.

Hello from sunny Tasmania
We sailed on Saturday it was a bit windy!!
The Sea Scout and club 500 when for a run up to the bridge.
So that left me with running the Sea Rover.

https://rctoystasmania.com/forums/topic/yes-we-sail/

Hi Nick,

Thank you for sharing and contributing to this thread with your really nice, neat and tidy LesRo Sprite.

Your workmanship is excellent and you have kept another (quite rare) Classic Model Power Boat alive and well.

Your recently built pond gives you a good opportunity to test your latest projects before committing them to a larger expanse of water - even your Vivacity can probably be test floated on it when it is finished !

The smaller Aerokits models that you mention would be better suited to the size of your pond, and allow you to enjoy slightly longer run times with less fear of crashing them than you experienced with your Sprite 🤣.

The Sea Urchin is the smallest of the Aerokits Classic Model Power Boats and is probably the model that has the most "character" as well as providing the builder with the challenge of connecting the transom mounted rudder to the steering servo without causing any leaks!

...as you suggest - I will "watch this space" for any new additions to your fleet 👍

Bob.

I've finally got around to re-engining my Lesro Sprite, using a Surpass Hobby C3536 1050kv aero motor. I chose this one, which I already had lying around in the workshop,rather than the purpose bought Rocket RC 2948 3450kv water-jacketed inrunner, as the latter's kv rating was just too high. I'll save that motor for a faster/higher performance design, perhaps.

The Surpass can produce up to (in theory😉) 580watts with a 4s Lipo, several times more than the brushed original, although the 7.2V buggy pack still seems to give ample revs under load to the 35mm plastic prop.

I replaced the ESC with a cheap Rw.rc 50A watercooled one from Ali Express to utilize the original water-cooling system intended for the 540/550 type motor.

I managed to 'road-test' it on my back-yard pond, although the rudder was almost permanently activated to keep it within the confined space, so it couldn't really reach its potential. However it was easy to see the vast improvement in performance. It feels considerably lighter than before despite the original 3000mAh NimH 7.2V pack, and with less motor weight up front it rises onto the plane far more easily.

Here are a few pics of the new installation, and a video taken by my trusty camera-person (my ever patient wife, Nicki😍😉).
Note, the video was completely unrehearsed in one take, mistakes-and-all, eg - the ESC has water-cooling built in, so is a marine type, not aero. If you look closely, you can see the cooling water exit out of the transom. The ESC was barely warm, and the motor slightly warmer but ok, I think - I'll keep an eye on this, as I may have to fit a small fan at the rear of the main hatch, and a vent at the top to draw some cool air through the motor compartment.

Also, the transmission is currently rather noisy, despite good alignment of the new motor and shaft (pre-aligned with a solid coupling before putting in the universal; I'm starting to wonder if the coupling itself is 'rattling' somewhat, as it is an all-metal one from Ali Express...?).
I also made up a new, larger rudder, which is far more effective than the original, but which needs sealing with grease as a little water ingressed into the rear compartment, driven up the rudder tube by the prop wash.

A great little boat, and I'm looking forward to trying it out properly on more open water, as it really is too big for the pond. However, as well as starting the Vivacity build, my next 'small' project might have to be one of the small Lesros...Urchin...? Sea Nymph...? Patrol boat...? These might just about fit ....🤔 Watch this space...

Best regards,

Nick

Hi Chris,

I did notice that the Spearfish (and the Spear) that Harry has are also not pictured here, but it must have taken some time to arrange all of the Classic Model Power Boats that he has pictured along with his collection of interesting "working boats".

...I am also fairly sure that there are quite a few more that have not been pictured yet, but Harry's boats do all get well used and so some may be in the workshop for regular maintenance work ...?

Bob.

Or Spearfish! 😁

Thats an impressive picture Harry, and includes some really nice Classic Model Power Boats.......and it doesn't even include your Sea Commander or your Sea Queen.🤔

Bob.

WHAT PROBLEM !!!!
I have knot got a problem at all.
Harry

I'm quite restrained really. 😁 I have three Huntresses but only one each of the other Faireys! But I suppose having a total of nine Faireys does mean I have a bit of a problem! 🤔 😂

Chris

Noah could be your new user name Will as all your boats seem to enter your stash "two by two" 🤣

You are not the only one to have more than one of each type of the Classic Model Power Boats that you enjoy.

My weakness would appear to be the LesRo Rapier - a design that I really did not like the look of when it first came out - but after restoring one during the lock-down I was truly impressed by its performance when I got to run it for the first time - and have since gathered a couple more of them at various stages of restoration........ but I only have one Javelin 😎

Bob.

Thankfully indeed Bob, as I already have 2x Javelin (shock horror 🙄).
You'll be calling me Noah next, as somehow, i seem to 'ended up' with pairs of quite a few of my boats 🤔🙄

Will

LesRo Javelin.

This LesRo Javelin is currently for sale on eBay - but sadly the seller lives in Welwin and it is for collection only.

This rules-out both Will and myself as it is too far away for either of us to collect.

The model is another from the era of Classic Model Power Boats that was driven by a glow plug motor, so it will need a fair bit of cleaning-up and may well have some areas of wood that are fuel soaked too.

A restoration and conversion to brushless motor power would make this into a very nice Classic Model Power Boat that would be really good to see on the water again.

Bob.

Happy New Year Will, and I hope you get the chance to get one of your “captives” freed and on the water this year 😂

Bob.

Other than wishing everyone a Happy New Year, I think 'no comment' is the best reply I can give to your post Bob 😔

I will try to get at least one of my 'collection' (hoard?) on the water this year.

Will

Happy New Year to all owners and anyone interested in Classic Model Power Boats.

‘Tis the time of year for resolutions to be made for the forth-coming year and mine include some for my Classic Model Power Boat fleet.

I must get my Swordsman models finished and on the water as soon as my prototype Sprite Plus is finished.

I need to refurbish my Sea Queen that was bought in need of some work 2-3 years ago ! It was delivered in a soft card box that did not protect it at all well in transit so the windscreen was smashed and other damage was inflicted too, so instead of just changing the long flimsy 4BA prop shaft for a better suited 5mm one I have decided to give it the full restoration treatment!

I have a LesRo Javelin that is almost ready to get its hull wet and it needs the builder (me) to fit the wing that I made for it at least 3 years ago and get it in the water! It only needs some small detailing work as I have completely restored it.

My Aerokits Patrol Launch was started in 1971. During storage and two house moves later the rear cabin roof warped - a flimsy excuse for not finishing it (and I doubt anyone else would even notice it as it was only very slightly warped), but I have now cut a new cabin roof base and formers. After this base has had some cross-braces glued to it I will fit a new skin roof and try to get it finished….at last!

I have a pair of recently acquired LesRo Fisherman boats that both need a full restoration as well, but they are unlikely to overtake the other projects….or at least - they shouldn’t!

Like many others, I tend to collect things that I like the look of and hope to refurbish - sometime - but this year - I hope get a few more of them finished and on the water.

…….but I do want to build a Swordsman 37……..so that is another one that will be joining the others in the workshop (shed). 😎

Bob.

Hi Will,

Your Thames Police Launch is definitely a Classic Model Power Boat.

Merry Christmas!

Bob.

Hi Madwelshman,
I would say that seing that the Veron Thames Police Launch was an old boat originaly then YES definitly it to me would be clased as a Classic Model Power Boat.
They plane very well when they are set up correctly, and they were used to chase if needed to on the Thames.
Wonderful little Model Classic Power Boat. 🚤🚤👍

Hi roycv,
I have a Super Marine and a Double Special.
I saw the Super Marine on a Norfolk boot fair, i picked it up and looked at it and then walked on.
I went back twice more and then the man said to me several others have looked at it and put it down. I dont know what it is.
I asked how much is it he said as you have been back and looked at it a few times you can just take it.
I didn't argue, but as it was it didn't turn over at all it was seiced up.
I was away on holiday up there at the time. Anyway I took it apart and got it sorted out and I have had it for about 5 years now and it runs great.
After I had got it running and the smell from it, I can remember the smell from when my brother had a Taycol Standard in his Crash Tender and when that sparked as well.

I was 11 at the time and he had the old type accumulator battery in his boat, we didn't have a charger and my dad used to send me to the local model shop and they used to charge it for us. I think they used to charge us about 1/-, one shilling. That was back in 1961.

His Crash Tender was copied from my Aerokits Crash Tender. His was built maily from old tea chests and orange boxes, except from the chine strips and the skins, my dad bought the proper ply for that.

I had a ED Hunter 3.46cc diesel engine in mine but niether of us had R/C, that was way out of my parents affordabillity back then.
It's funny how the smell comes back to you.
I am planing to try one of those two motor's on my Aerokit's Sea Queen when I get around to restoring her.

I'd say so Will. I've disregarded my Faun as it's hardly a "power" boat and not well known so not a classic. Same for the Fisherman, which in addition to low power has sails.

For me, as well as good performance and age they have to be built in sufficient numbers to be deemed as classics. That criteria also excludes my Huntress Long Cabin with stern-drive.

Chris

I think the Veron Police boat at 26 inches rates as a classic.
You have hurt my spirit with your disregard for electric motors!!😭😭
Have you never smelt the lure of a running Taycol motor? The spark is hidden in an i/c motor, whereas with Taycol motors the spark is on the outside!

Then for the filthy rich there was the Bassett-lowke Marine motor the spark was there but more sophisticated and subdued.
Even a 'Kako' motor was OK.
Roy

Does this still class as a model power boat?

The Thames Police Launch is one of my favourite boats, following closely behind most things Fairey.

I have both the smaller 26", and larger 34" versions, both needing some work (shock horror when it comes to my model boats)
This 26" version has no electronics or motor, then same with the larger scale version too.

One day 🙄

Hi Bob, he actually says that his model called Sea Rover was based on Sea Queen which won a 1960/61 off-shore power boat race.

The first Cowes - Torquay power boat race took place in 1961 but there wasn't a Sea Queen or even a Sea Rover in the entry list and it wouldn't have won overall anyway but maybe a class but it wasn't mentioned in any case.

Likewise with the 1960 and 1961 Miami - Nassau power boat races.

I don't know of any other races worthy of mention so I think he has some confusion there.

Chris

Sea Rover - Sea Commander - Sea Queen.

The very well known Aerokits Sea Commander and Sea Queen kits were thought by some to be based on Norfolk Broads cruisers, but there is also a claim that they were both based on a full-sized boat called "Sea Rover" - that actually won an off-shore race in 1960/61 !

Not to be confused with the well known Aerokits Sea Rover model of the same name that has a different design!

The use of the same "Sea Rover" name by the different shaped model and the full size craft can be a bit confusing!

Maybe the Aerokits Sea Rover model kit came along after the Sea Commander and Sea Queen designs were already on sale and the name was used by Les Rowell as a "nod" to the boat that inspired what has turned out to be his most popular and well known design that has been available in two different sizes for over half a century.

Bob.

Hi Boatshed (Thomas ),

I share your interest in fast patrol and rescue craft as my main interest for many years has been Coastal Command and over the years I have gained a large reference library of this type of craft and have previously modelled and owned several different types of them.

Like yourself, I also like to see these craft (and other Classic Model Power Boats) being driven at a realistic speed and I really enjoy driving them as often as possible and making "white water" with them.

In more recent years I have broadened my interest to include other Classic Model Power Boats, and in particular those that I remember seeing on the water in the late 50's and through the 1960s when I first started my own journey of building and restoring them.

These days I still enjoy driving and restoring craft of this type, but I now find that I enjoy driving them even more, so actually running them as often as possible is now the part of the hobby that I probably enjoy the most.

With 10 Classic Model Power Boats actively in regular use and 15 or more Classic Power Boats currently either under construction or restoration I have hardly given up on spending far too much time in my workshop(shed), but I find that driving these craft helps to keep my "eye to hand" co-ordination working well.....something that I also sharpen-up every week by racing 1/12 scale Minis, Sports/GT and LMP cars as well as 1/10 Touring cars and off-road buggies in the better weather.

I no longer race large scale cars (they are now too heavy for me to carry!), but I raced them for many years both on-road (1/4 and 1/5th scale touring cars, sports/GT and Racing Trucks) and and 1/6 scale off-road biggies (2WD and 4WD).

.....so I guess I also share being a bit of a speed freak too - as far as r/c models are concerned !

Bob.

RAF CRASH TENDER

I have been a big fan of the RAF Crash Tender since 25th August 1959.
That was I got for my birthday present on that date.

When I originally joined this website it was just dedicated to the RAF Crash Tender.
I was,

Member No,, # 583.
Registered, * 26th March 2009.

I was very disappointed at first when it changed and added al sorts of other model boats, it took me a while to come to terms to it.
There are many other style model boats that I have NO interest in.
Vosper Hulls have been one of my favourites style hulls since I got my first one in 1959.

Yes I do have several different type of other model boats, an MTB and several other speed boats and
Fairey Marine and Aerokit’s models.
Basicly anything that would plane and speed about. (I am a self confessed speed freak).

I have a second-hand book called “ An engineer of sorts” written by Peter Du Cane.
The reason I got this book is because he had worked for Vosper and he helped design many of their boats.
He also designed his own 80ft boat and had it build it was handed over to him in 1965. M.Y. Dimarcha.

When you read the pages on this website, Pans & Docs it tells you that the R.A.F. Fire Float MKII.
Is a Mk 2. Also it seems there were only 2 built numbers 93 and 94.
So where is/was the Mk I, in all of this ??. ( you cannot have a MkII without a MkI can you??)

In his book he has put a picture of what he says, we built two 45 foot picket boats.

I have taken a photo of this boat from the book and added it on here.
He states that,
“These two boats were allocated to battleships, with no less than 4 V8 engines
installed. 2 in each”.
He also says
“The picket boat was surprisingly good, as is always the case with a reasonably well
Designed hard chine planing boat. A speed of 20 knots was about her best cruising speed”

To me I would assume that these would be the MK1 ‘s ?? They didn’t seem to have been numbered.
And the next two built would have turned out to be the RAF Crash Tender MkII.

All though the Crash Tender does not actually get a mention in the book.
I do NOT know if anyone also on here has actually seen this before.
I have had this book for several years now. Second-hand off of Ebay, Ex library book.
And only just realised this about the picket boat. Never really took much notice of the picture
I must admit I have not read the book properly as I only got the book as I was interested in his own boat
M.Y. Dimarcha as I do have a plan from the Model Boats Magazine for building one.
But I have never got around to building it. So many plans & so little time as usual.

His M.Y Dimarcha also looks to be a smaller version of the 96ft version of the later built M.Y. Mercury that was built for Mr Stavros Niarchos with a few slight added differing designs .
Mr Aristotle Onassis also had one of these Yacht’s built. His name is mentioned on the Victory Industries model of Vosper Triple Screw Yacht.

I get from reading the notes, R.A.F. Fire Float MKII. on notes that when the MKII ‘s were built they were made a foot longer than the two picket boats to 46ft long.
Then the engines must have changed to the Rover Meteorite Petrol unit’s which when you look them up they were actually Rolls Royce. Meteorite engines.
The other V8 engines might have been what were then used for the fire pump units.
Once again reading all of the notes and what’s in the book these are just my thoughts

I am sorry if I have gone on a bit but I just thought that some of this from this book might be of some useful information to you. ( Plus my additional thoughts and bits added, sorry again.)
It may be the reason as to why the RAF Crash Tender is called the MkII and that these two picket boats were possibly the Mk I ‘s. ??
Well that is my thoughts, can any one else give their opinion on this,.
Has anyone else seen this.
Maybe get the book fro the library and see it for yourselves ??

Hi canabus,
I have just tried to look at your video and all is show s is the camera view of some riding a bicycle.
Do you have a correct youtube link so that it can be seen please.
I would love to see it.
Regards
BOATSHED (Thomas, Tom)

Hi Lads
My little video of my restored Sea Rover.

Hi Dutton73,

Here is the picture of my Sea Scout - as promised.

Bob.

Hi roycv,
Yes the Crash Tender that I have, I bought it off of the internet and it does have a bit of warping on it and a couple of bits missing.
It doesn't have the drive bands for the motor either.
I am pretty sure deep in my shed, If I'm not mistaken that I also have the Trpple Screw Launch that Victory produced as well, in the added picture.
I also have 3 maybe 4, I 'm not sure Nikko small R/C boats that I started to collect.

I forgot to list the 34" F1 tunnel hull with a K&B converted outboard to Brushless.
I am thinking of putting that on Ebay as I am thinning out a lot of my boats as I have so many.
A couple of those cheapy NQD R/C ready to run boats as well .
I had about 30 model boats in the shed in all not counting the little ones in the boxes and I'm down to about 23 I think now.

I also sold off the one fifth R/C two stroke car, but still have the R/C Traxxas Stampede car.

One day I will get around to putting the electric motors in the boats I hope some soon, but I need to get that Classic 1960 Rover back on the road next year.

That's unless the NHS drag me in and start to carve me up doing what I need to get sorted out first. If they do then It will be maybe putting the motors in the boats before the doing Rover.

Hi Zooma,
The Kit wasn't the Sea Commander it was the RAF Crash Tender.
I bought that back in 1991 I think it was, It was released by Aerokits on the 40th anniversary of the Crash Tender kit they produced.
I saw an advert in the Model Boats Magazine and sent for it straight away.
I never built it and I only sold it back early this year it was the 34.5" kit.
I kept it for 34 years unmade.
I had my first one in 1959 for my 9th birthday.
I also sold on Ebay the other 48" kit that was produced by the VWM boat company.
They both went to different people and then I sold the 48" one that I had that was already made it had previously had a IC glow engine in it.

Hi Boatshed I like the plastic crash tender with box. That is a case of the sun shall not have them. Sunlight on the old plastics can warp and distort models. I have a 575 yacht the plastic is still an original white and no sign of ageing.

Great to see all the models.
Roy

Hi. The boat pictured at Southport lake is a Range Safety Launch as opposed to a RTTL. The black and white film, 'The Sea Shall Not Have Them' depicts the story of an RTTL and its crew during the 2ndWW.

Regards
Kevin

Hiya Boatshed, I like your models but especially the small plastic RAF crash tender still with it's original box. I had one of these which gave me as a youngster many hours of fun along with my model yacht. My Dad managed to get a photo of both of them sailing past each other. I now have the 34" Aerokits model boat.

That's quite a collection of model boats you have there Boatshed.

I especially like the two unmade Classic Model Power Boat kits of the Aerokits Sea Commander and the MFA Spearfish.

The two Taycol electric motors are classic's too!

Please let us know how the Sea Queen goes with either of the Taycol motors fitted as this is a combination that could have been used in the 1960's - especially with the vintage McGregor 2 channel radio control system - that could be very interesting !

Bob.

Here is a list of some of my classic model power boats,

Sea Hornet
Aerokits Sea Quuen
Aerokits Sea Commander
Precedent Huntsman
Prcedent Huntman Fibreglass Hulls x2 No superstructure.
Precedent PT 109 wooden Hull. No superstructure.
Norstar Waverider.
1970's Stratos/Hydrofirbe Pipedream 50" with an outdrive
(was meant to have a Zenoah sold that off) will now have a brushless.
28" R.A.F. CRASH TENDER. Built from Balsa wood from reduced 34" plans.
50" Chineese Fibreglass PT 109. ( removed the 26cc IC engine, going brushless)
Proboat Miss Geico 28". RTG.
Graupner ARTG Rhode Island F1 Tunnel Hull.

I have also recently purchased off of Ebay a 2 channel MacGregor R/C. and when it arrived
I was a bit shocked with it.
It turned out to have been never used.
The box was well tatty but the R/C was in perfect condition.
I plan to use it in my Aerokits Sea Queen when I get her up and running.
I might put in one of the Taycol motors fist to see how it goes before I try a brushless in her.

50" White fibreglass batboat unbilt. (FOR SALE £75) Collection only Dartford area.


Sold off in the last 2 years
R.A.F. CRASH TENDERs.
Aeronaut Classic Speed Boat. half built.
( I feel this kit is poor quility for the money)
2nd Sea Hornet would have been more sense.
Navicraft Outrage 26cc two stroke.
MFA Spearfish fibreglass unbuilt kit.
50" Batboat. Painted black & white.
3ft 1970's unbuilt Stratos/Hydrofibre Intreceptor fibreglass kit.


The photo's are just some of them.


48" Crash Tender, in need of restoration.
1970's unbuilt Aerokits 34" kit.
Vintage Model Boats Kits 48" unbilt kit.

I have removed all of my Glow and Two stroke engines and sold them off on Ebay.
I am now going electric brushesd and brushless in all of my model boats now.

Thanks Bob👍
That was the final iteration with a 3S LiPo.
Scroll down a bit further and there are 3 more videos of initial trials with NIMH batteries, heavier🙄 and competition from the local swans!
Sadly the videos and my sea trials Captains Report have disappeared from my Harbour😠
QUESTION TO STEPHEN (Fireboat)- Why is that?
Cheers, Doug😎

Hi Doug,

Nice video of your restored Sea Scout in action and planing nicely 👍

Bob.

Hi Dutton,
I can also confirm that you definitely have a Sea Scout there👍
Attached are links to my Blog of the restoration of a Sea Scout built by my Dad in the early 60s. Also a link to my Harbour. 3rd link shows the boat on sea trials. You'll need to scroll down a bit!
Bon chance mon ami👍
Cheers, Doug😎

blogs/28209?sort=ASC

harbour/43323

blogs/28209#44513

My aerokit sea scout purchased from an antiques shop. kindly verified by zooma.im thinking of just repairing the crazed white paint and a good clean as i like the age of it it has no rc just a made in japan motor with what looks like a homemade on off switch incorporated into a wooden control .would like to see any pictures anyone has of theirs 👍

Aerokits Sea Scout.

This Classic Model Power Boat is only two feet long, but it has a lot of character and is a model that is not seen anything like often enough these days.

I have one that is waiting for some attention but it is basically OK as it was not a size of model that was too often powered by diesel or glow plug engine, so most are not fuel soaked and easy to work on.

Invariably they were powered by a small early type electric motor (often a Mabuchi)
or even an old KaKo (if my memory serve me correctly?) and others of similar size and power..

I will dig a picture out of my Sea Scout and add it later......but hopefully a better one will come along first and beat me to it!

Bob.

Just took a good look at picture in PEIs post and IMHO, the actuator/servo id definitely an early servo and probably used with a reed set. There would have been a switching circuit to drive the electric motor. The motor is driving a lead screw via gears, this in turn has a follower to which the servo output is soldered. This setup would give you a linear output servo.

That's a nice addition to your fleet Harry.

Thanks for sharing it with us here,

38" long is a good size Classic Model Power Boat. Big enough to be used under most conditions and small enough to be able to carry, store and transport .

I have not seen a Chris Craft Commuter before - was it built from a Sterling kit?

Bob.

Hi Me Lads
Another classic !!
1929 Chris Craft Commuter boat 38" long.
Name "Dynamite" !!!
I think it's about time to take her for a run.
35m brushless 920KV, 3S lipo Battery, 40mm 2 blade prop.
Harry

Aero-Naut Victoria.

This Classic Model Power Boat has been around for a long time, but has never been seen on this thread before.....so here it is!

Based on a 1960's luxury motor yacht at 700mm long it is a nice sized model.

Bob.

Thanks Harry,

All the information I could ever need about the Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.

Many thanks 👍

Bob.

catalog Aerokits .Plus Picture of my PT109 by Pro Boat.
Harry

The plans !!!!

Harry

Aerokits Torpedo Boat

I remember seeing this boat being advertised in one of the Keil Kraft catalogues in the 1960's, but I have never seen one in real life, so I am guessing that it did not sell very well?

Was it 40" long?

Does anyone own one of these or have any pictures of one as I have lost my old KK catalogue and so I have no reference for it any longer?

A set of plans would be good to see as well.!

I saw this boat of sale on eBay recently, and I did wonder if perhaps it is a genuine Aerokits Torpedo Boat?

Can anyone help?

Bob.

Hi Roger,

The engine looks like it is an old diesel engine, but from the picture I cannot identify it for you.......but it could be an ED Hunter?

The ED Hunter would be the right sort of age and with its 3.5cc capacity it was one of the engines that was favoured for boats of that size at the time.

I can't see clearly through the "murk" of the "servo"picture, but my guess is that it is not a servo, but some sort of escapement suggesting that the boat was run on an old type single channel radio in its past - perhaps?

Good luck restoring your Aerokits model boat - something that I have enjoyed doing many times over the years, and the RAF Crash Tender is a really nice model when it is finished that runs nicely.

Bob.

Harry, many thanks for the plans and photos. I'm not sure how old this boat is or when it was last in water. But have attached a pic of the motor and rudder servo that were in it 3 weeks ago.

Roger

Hi Roger
This is the plans for the 46" model.
The boat requires weight in the stern, like the batteries.

Harry

This is my winter project, picked it up a few weeks ago here on Prince Edward Island, Canada. I'm guessing it's the model made by Aerokits (34"). If anyone has plans they are willing to share, please let me know.

Roger

RAF Range Safety Launch. (often confused with the RAF Rescue and target Towing Launch RTTL) 🙄

I have long been an admirer of the RAF Range Safety Launch since I first saw one powered by a Gannet 4 stroke engine sometime in the 1960’s.

The one that I pictured today at the Southport club is owned by a friend of ours called Jim.

He did not build it new, but he has owned it for a long time after picking it up at a car boot sale (!) and has tidied it up over the years that he has owned it to look like it does now.

Jims Classic Model Power Boat is about 40” long and was probably built from the same plans as the one that I first saw all those years ago.

Now electric powered this is a lovely looking model that makes white water and performs as it should.

Bob

Aerokits Fast Patrol Launch.

This is the same kit that I bought new from Exmouth Models in 1971.

It has remained part-built for many years and the most recent reason for not finishing it was because the rear cabin roof had warped slightly - just enough to be able to detect a slight movement when pushed hard on one corner.

Finally I took a wide chisel to this roof and levered-off the skin (breaking the roof former at the same time!).

A new former was cut and glued to the original base together with a spine of 4mm plywood that fits centrally from front to back.

This was all left to dry on the flat cast iron table of my band saw whilst weighted down with some large tins of paint.

When I am home next, I will check to see if it has dried OK and if it is warp-free. I will add some diagonal cross members to the base plate before cutting a new skin to try to stop this replacement cabin roof twisting like the original one did.

A quick coat of paint will get slapped on next so this boat can actually see some water for the very first time !

It will still have the small 385 motor left fitted (this was another reason for not finishing it!) and this may encourage me to finally spend some time on it and (probably) fit a different motor.

Bob.

Hi Ronald, I have never seen a blade specially designed for cutting plywood, but I always keep sharp new blades in stock to fit my bandsaw, and whenever I detect any hint of them not cutting as cleanly or as fast as they did when they were brand new, they are changed immediately

I keep different bandsaw blades in stock with various TPI to make sure that the blade that I am using suites the job in hand.

When I have time, I will speak to the saw blade maker to ask if he is aware of any special type of “set” or tooth type that is better suited to the types that I have been using to cut my plywood with for the last 40 years or so.

I have never had any problems like this with any previous types of plywood - even cheap “shuttering” that is considered as “sacrificial”.

My Hegnar jigsaw has lots of different packets of various blade types that I can use, but they are all VERY fine and as used for cutting jigsaw puzzles and have never torn any wood.

These very fine fret saw blades never last for many cuts before breaking - long before they become blunt.

My previous “general purpose” fretsaw used much heavier “pinned” blades, but they never damaged the wood surface either.

The surface chips that I have experienced on my most recent deliveries are I am certain due to poor quality - in particular with the bond between the top surface and the laminated layer below it.

The chipping is not restricted to when the wood is being cut. Lumps can fly off when being sanded or when being smoothed with anything from sandpaper to a fine tooth file - or even when the full size board is put down with a little bit of a bump on a hard surface.

The hairy surface that Chris detected is the natural finish that this last delivery of wood has when it is received. It has not been sanded, but does improve after it has been fine sanded.

Bob

Reading down through the various comments I read about some are having an issue tear-out. They say after the cut it has got “hairs” but actually it’s called tear-out and there are suggested methods to reduce this.

Using the correct sharp blade is one of them. Using a blade designed for cutting plywood is needed. Applying painters tape on the cut-line, ensuring it is firmly secured to the material.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tear-out+when+cutting+birch+ply&client=safari&sc

When my old shed was falling apart a few years ago, I rebuilt it and lined the walls and the floor with heavy 22mm water-proof flooring grade chip board (not sure if I have remembered the "correct" name for this expensive grade of chip board).

Having a "clean start" I was able to build fitted work benches (same surface material) and above them on two walls I fitted some of those heavy duty steel racking rails that you can plug different sizes of brackets into, and it is on these adjustable racking brackets that I fitted flat 3/4" exterior plywood shelves that I can store my plywood on to keep it flat.

I spaced the vertical racking rails quite close together to reduce the amount of un-supported space between them, so the shelves have no opportunity to sag.

Plywood that arrives "wobbly" can be stored on the bottom of each shelf so that the weight of the wood above it helps to flatten it by the time it is used.

When I first rebuilt the shed, this was considered as a way to keep nice freshly bought plywood as flat as it was when it was delivered.

These days I use these same shelves to try to correct and flatten the new plywood after it is delivered!

Bob.

That a good proportion of Birch ply comes from Russia was a shock to me, having lived in Finland for 16 years where my local timber yard sold only Finnish ply.

Most Finns would reject Russian wood on principle, though there are thousands of tonnes of wood coming into the the country from Russia to feed the paper industry. Most of the pulping is chemical these days (smells bad) but I lived near a paper mill that ground the wood into pulp - all the timber had to be x-rayed in case there were any bullets or shell fragments in the wood which would have damaged the grinders.

Yeah, I meant to say that some of the ply I've had in the past has been warped and like you have had to select the best place to cut from. Not so bad with smaller parts though.

Fortunately I still have quite a bit of good quality thin ply, it's 6mm I need for keels and doublers etc. At least it's not on show if I do get some not so good quality.

Problem I've got is that I don't have anywhere I can store it flat until I reorganise my workroom! 😁 That's only part of my ply and strip supplies!

I had no idea that the birch plywood that we use to build our model boats started its life in Russia Dave - that came as quite a shock.

The ply-skins always seem to have a much better surface on them than the thicker plywoods bought at the same time from the same source Chris - probably just as well!

This latest batch of ply-skins that I had delivered last week were not flat - they had a very rippled surface that looked like it had waves in it.

Fortunately I had some other skins already on one of my stock shelves so I used them instead.

The 4mm birch play was also warped on delivery, so I had to choose carefully where I cut the parts from so they were flat. This was quite wasteful .

The unused sheets of 4mm birch ply (along with the unused ply-skins) were put under some flat 3/4 plywood on a stock shelf and left in the hope that the weight will eventually flatten them.

Maybe the wood supply from Russia has something to do with the quality of the wood, but it was a bit disappointing.

Bob.

A few months ago I tried a local independent (in Witney) timber merchant for some birch ply only to be told that most of their birch ply came from Russia and the source had dried up since the war with Ukraine started. This might explain the poor quality of some plywood being sold as birch ply.

I usually buy birch faced as well but there has been occasions in the past when I've bought other sorts and thought the piece I showed was some of that.

What is noticeable is that the external ply colours do vary with the thicker plies compared to the thinner ones and you can even see this on the SLEC site. Some of my thin ply has a wonderful, smooth hard finish which after a light sanding comes up beautifully when varnished - I used that on my Huntsman 28 deck. Perhaps the thin ply has to be better quality to achieve the thicknesses required.

Hi Chris,

When I check the SLEC site for "Birch Ply" it is now also described it as "Exterior Grade Ply" so it should be OK for our intended use (?) and it is the grade of plywood that I have always bought from SLEC.

It is actually the "birch faced" part of the plywood that is "chipping-off", so presumably the "Birch Faced Poplar Core" plywood would have exactly the same problem if the surface layer was not bonded on properly?

Laser Grade Ply has a water based adhesive that is necessary for cutting the plywood when using a laser cutter and so this would be the grade of plywood found in any model boat kit that has been laser cut.

Poplar Plywood is also used for laser cutting so it will still be bonded with water based glue?

From what I can see, the birch plywood is still the best choice for model boat making as it is resin bonded and not water based glue bonded (?), but the last batch that I bought may have just had a quality problem with the bonding.

Bob.

https://slecuk.com/product-category/ply/birch-ply/

Just to reinforce what you have found Bob, I've just cut some 6mm ply (with what I termed the "hairy" finish! 😊) using my scroll saw and a fairly coarse 15 TPI blade and even on the turns I had very little tear and no chipping - this is on the underside, the top cutting cleanly. I'm guessing this is poplar ply as most of my other ply, which is thinner, is birch faced. Interestingly comparing 4 x 300 x 900mm sheets the poplar ply is more expensive which I wasn't expecting.

It was bought from a very well known supplier of plywood and model boat kits that I have used for many years without any problems Dave - until now!

Bob.

That plywood doesn't look like modelling grade, more like non-structural DiY ply.

I always buy good quality Baltic or Finnish birch ply for my models. I used to be able to go to the local timber merchants in Kuusankoski and buy big sheets of lovely ply from under 1mm thick upwards.

Hi Chris, the hairy look is not too bad as I have not sanded it yet and I am sure that it will be OK, and it is not the biggest problem.

The chipping is bad however, and is why I have pictured it here.

If you look at the window cut-outs that are also un-sanded and taken straight from the Hegnar fretsaw, the cut itself is very clean - but the wood surface still chipped.

The flat end of the hull chipped itself as it was being sanded !

.....and the cabin side chipped when it was being cut on the bandsaw. This chip has been fitted on the outside where it will be hidden by the side skins when they are fitted.

What this does show is that the wood is not as good as it should be, and is certainly not as good as it always used to be.

Bob.

Blimey, that's worse than I thought! That is bad. The surface of the ply looks very "hairy" and soft.

I'm used to getting some tear when cutting with my scroll saw, I've stopped using the very fine blades, but once I've sanded back to the lines it's virtually gone as it is only minor and is only on the back face but it wouldn't be if chunks like that were taken out.

I'd be inclined to contact the supplier to see if they had a problem with a batch?

I need to order some more ply and don't want any of that quality.

Here are some pictures that illustrate the "edge chipping" that I am getting with the 4mm plywood that I have recently purchased from my favourite wood and hobby parts supplier.

It's not the end of the world, and some P38 filler will soon cover it up, but it does show the poor quality of the wood, and its readiness to chip lumps out of it does suggest that the different layers of wood have not been laminated together as well as they could have been.

More expensive types of plywood are available from the same source, so I will buy some samples of them when I can make an order large enough to justify the delivery costs to see if they are any better,

Bob.

Tell me about it Dave! My Fairey Swordsman was the first one I started and is the only one without any paint on it with the others being at various stages. Trouble is I'd reach a point where I was apprehensive about doing something and then start another and that would get to the same stage! 😀

Ironically the last one started was the first one finished, well almost.

This winter I must set to and do some serious painting and detailing.

Chris

Hi Dave,

I think that there must be some model boats that just give a mental blank to the builder that is hard to explain.

My Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat was bought new from Exmouth Models in 1971 - and I still haven't finished it yet!

I got close to finishing it a few years ago and then noticed that the rear cabin roof had warped!

Making another one is not really such a big deal, but it was very annoying and caused the model to be put back until I had time to replace it by making another one.

I have several ex-model car 540 size motors laying around, but decided to make an engine mount for a 380 sized brushed motor because I didn't want a speed boat, just a model that would have a brisk but not silly performance.

This was fitted and looked very neat and tidy.

Later that same week, I saw the same model being driven nicely with a standard 540 on the Southport club lake. It was not too fast, but it had enough power to cope with the brisk sea breezes that we sometimes get that need a reasonable amount of power to make any progress when driving against it and the choppy water it creates!

There are also a couple of very small brushless motors without a home laying around that would also work well in this model.......and that just adds to the list of very small reasons that I need to get a grip of ....and then get this model finished!

It sounds simple - just make a new rear cabin roof, remove the motor and mount and fit a 540 (or a small brushless motor), and then paint it (my pet hate).

This needs to be done!

Bob.

I started building my Slec Arrow nearly six years ago. Recently, I finally added the plywood skins to the bare framework, so I reckon it should be finished by 2030, assuming I last that long!
It's not that I am an especially slow builder, but I keep getting distracted by other projects.

LesRo Arrow.

Much easier to find is a LesRo Arrow.

This boat has exactly the same hull as the Stiletto and when I was looking for a Stiletto, I didn't think I would ever find one so I bought one of the re-kitted types that is still currently available with a view of making a copy Stiletto superstructure to fit it.

A couple of weeks later a used Stiletto came up for sale at our local clubs "Bring and Buy" event (typical!) so I bought it......... and I now have a new unmade Arrow kit to build.......and it will be built as an Arrow.

There are plenty of nice Arrow boats to inspire me and it is not a long job to build one - the sort of build that could be fitted in-between another restoration for example.

I found a couple of pictures online of some nicely executed Arrow's to help illustrate this here.

Like the Rapier, the Arrow was also renamed during one of its previous re-kitting exercise when it was called Mini Streaker ( the Rapier was renamed Streaker) and there is part built original Min Streaker kit that has been for sale on eBay for some time that I have also pictures here to show its alternative box art.

Bob.

LesRo Stiletto

The LesRo Stiletto is a lovely little Classic Model Power Boat, and it is almost as rare and hard to find as it's bigger sister the LesRo Rapier.

It is probably only easier to find because being a smaller kit it was a lot less expensive to buy and so a few more of them were sold.

At a little over 25" long, it is a lot smaller than its bigger 39" sister (Rapier).

Both the Stiletto and Rapier wheelhouse cabin cruisers failed to capture the publics imagination who preferred to buy the "off-shore racer" version of each that shared the same hull exactly.(Arrow and Javelin).

Again (like its bigger sister), the Stiletto was never re-kitted either !

Bob.

Thanks for adding the video of your excellent scaled-up Stiletto to this thread JB, it looks really good on the water.

There is something special about the way that any deep-vee shaped hull rides in the water, and I agree that your boat and my restored Rapier do handle very much like each other.

Previous to restoring the Rapier, I had always regarded the Aerokits Swordsman as having the most pleasing performance hull, but I now think that the Rapier is even better - but I didn't think that back in the 1960's when it first came out.

Les Rowell was ahead of the time when he designed and made the LesRo Rapier kit, and sadly at that time it was not a success as its shape failed to appeal to the buying public.

I admit to being one of the doubters when the first example appeared on the River Avon one weekend at one of our regular Bath Model Power Boat Club meetings. The models long narrow pointed bows looked a little strange when compared with the regular collection of Sea Commanders and Swordsman models and similar "look alike" cabin cruisers - it certainly looked "different" to all the others.

The LesRo "off-shore racer" looking model (Javelin) that shared exactly the same hull actually sold very well and was re-kitted and even renamed later (Streaker) in its later production run, but the poor sales that the Rapier (and Stiletto) achieved meant that they were doomed to never be re-kitted and is why they are quite a rare sight on the waters these days.

The Vee shaped hulls performance has never been in any doubt, but it has taken many years for this wheelhouse cabin cruiser to "look right" in many Classic Model Power Boat users eyes.

These days, many of the expensive full size cruisers now share the same sort of wheelhouse cabin and pointed bows hull shape, so we now find this a little less strange and a lot more acceptable - to the extent that if a re-kit of the Rapier (maybe with a slightly updated cabin shape) should appear now, it could easily sell quite well.

Bob.

Hi Bob, your rapier runs very well and mine runs pretty much exactly the same. I haven't needed any ballast to make it run level (laterally) which surprised me, given the deep V and how lightly it sits on the water. Mine dosn't turn as tightly as yours, but my rudder is a lot smaller and we have a large pond to play on. I can easily change the rudder, but it's fine for now.
Here's a vid of it running. It's limited to around 70% throttle on a 4000mah 3s at the moment which is more than enough for normal use. (think I've put this up in the build blog)

JB

Rapier Update.

Originally I fitted an air scoop on the foredeck to cover a hatch that I cut into the large area in front of the cabin.

The hatch was cut so that I could monitor this otherwise large hidden void and also use it as a weight box to make it easy to balance the boat without the trim tabs that could then be removed.

I run the boat this way for a while, but a more conventional hatch cover has now replaced it.

Rather than throw away this disused air scoop, I reduced its height and re-fitted it on the cabin roof as a dummy air-con inlet to keep the individuality of the model.

The scope was re-painted in white to "blend-in" with the cabin roof colour.

Bob.

LesRo Rapier. Shaft Drive or Flexi-Shaft Drive?

Hi JB,

I am guessing that your model that was based on an enlarged Stiletto (that is now the same length as my Rapier) probably has a flatter drive than my Rapier has due to its flexi shaft drive?

My Rapier still has a standard 5mm shaft drive and does come up onto the plane very quickly but then runs with the bows fairly high......but it does turn very well.

This video was taken after I fitted a smaller motor as I thought the boat was too fast for this size of lake. The boat was running on 2C with the more powerful motor (and with this smaller motor).

Bob.

Hi Will,

I did suspect that if there was anyone else that had a new unmade kit for the LesRo Rapier it would be you !

This is good news because I know that yours will probably never get built (🤣) so it will remain as a permanent reference for anyone that may need to find a pattern for a part in the future, and I also know that you would be only too keen to help provide a copy drawing of it if you were asked.

You are the custodian of the LesRo Rapier Will.........and I wont feel so bad if I should be tempted to build my kit now, rather than copy all the parts.

Your collection of Classic Model Power Boats, made and unmade, and the plans for them all is probably unbeatable and remains a rich source of valuable information.

Thank goodness they are all in your safe hands 👍

Bob.

I've got an unmade 'Rapier' kit in the loft Bob.
I know that will shock you 😂

Will

Super Rapier Kit ?

My unmade LesRo Rapier kit was found on a shelf under my workbench hiding in amongst some other unmade vintage kits of Classic Model Power Boats.

I opened the box to check the everything is still there and that the kit is complete, and I found the Super Rapier cabin sides that I had cut a few years ago (circa 2021) were also in the kit box !

There are also a couple of spare Rapier breasthooks that I cut when I was testing my bandsaw prior to cutting out the Super Rapier cabin sides.

These cabin sides can be plugged-in as the kit is being built to replace the original kits cabin sides and will fit exactly the same.

I may just copy every kit part (except the cabin sides as these will not be used) and build the copy parts so that the original kit can stay complete with all its original parts left intact.

The LesRo Rapier was not a good selling kit when it was first released and so it was one of the few LesRo kits that has not been copied or remade by anyone else, so it is a very rare kit.

Maybe this is the ONLY unmade original LesRo Rapier kit left in existence?

If anyone knows of any others please let me know.


Bob.

Thanks for your latest contribution to this thread JB.

You are absolutely right, with a little tweak here and there an "old favourite" can be given a new lease of life.

This is one of the (many) reasons why I like Classic Model Power Boats so much.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

prop is just an old Graupner 35mm racing prop from the 70s, which works well.

A few pics of added 'extras' which may be of interest, - removable cabin has a stereo fitted, which runs from a 5v multi player board (BT, Micro SD card, Aux in) to a 5v amp then to the speakers mounted in the roof under the skylights. There is a voltage regulator for the LED lights also. On the cabin roof next to the radar is a small metal box which is the IR sensor for the stereo remote.

I have a small media player which can also plug into the board for the FM radio, or music from a micro SD card, or via BT from a phone etc. Just a bit of fun and very cheap to do with parts from Ali Express.

There is a removable false floor under the cabin to hide the internals. At the stern there is an air/water pump system to simulate exhaust. The 1500 KV outrunner heli motor has a built in fan, plus I've added an extra fan in front of it, (doesn't need water cooling). The fairleads, (plus anchor fairlead) are all resin moulded, using imprinted modelling clay, other fittings are brass, (rails, cleats etc)

By modernising the cabin and adding some 'bling' you can make a lot of improvements to the original look, while retaining a good running hull.

JB

A Rapier Facelift?

After restoring my first LesRo Rapier in March 2020, I acquired another one that had been used as a "pond model". It had a fixed ratchet rudder and a very small Mabuchi motor that would probably have just about pushed it along at a walking pace.

I had already drawn-up a profile for a "Super Rapier" to make a more up to date looking superstructure and to build it as a completely new model from scratch - but still using the formidable Rapier hull shape so I could keep its superb performance.

The cabin sides for the Super Rapier had already been cut, but I would have had to destroy most of this old "pond model" to graft them into it, so I decided just to "try-out" some of the new designs features on this model as I restored it to see how they would look - before fully committing to building a new model.

I could always cut them off again if I didn't like the look of them.

In the meantime I made up a complete new kit of parts to build a new LesRo Rapier ready to use most of them (except the superstructure) in my new Super Rapier build....

"Life got in the way" is an old excuse, but it really did, so this modified pond boat restoration has not been complete yet, but it is allowing me to test some of the new design ideas to see they still look as good as I thought they did 5 years ago when I first thought about making an updated looking Rapier.

Bob.

I'd love to have the Sport as a full-sized boat! 😀

It's funny that you should mention that project Chris, because I have been thinking about it quite a lot recently.

I have just found some drawings in a tube that was marked Stiletto Plus and inside it was the drawing for the Sport 35 by Project 3, and this is the cabin profile that I would like to make.

Project 3 was a good idea that kept the three of us all contributing and discussing a model that had the superb hull shape of the Rapier, but at a slightly shorter length that could make it a little easier to transport or keep in the car (in case of emergency!).

The three options that we have (four with your water-jet version) are certainly more attractive than the original Rapier/Stiletto shape and it would be a shame if we did not see the fruits of our thoughts put on the water to be enjoyed.

My version will not be water-jet powered but have a conventional shaft and brushless motor set-up - just like my Rapier - because that has exceptional performance and handling that I would like to also have on this (slightly) smaller Project 3 model.

Bob.

I've posted this before (somewhere!) but we (Bob, Will and myself) thought the same about the superstructure a few years ago - nice hull and performs very well, but the superstructure looks dated and out of keeping. Modernising the windows makes a big difference.

But we went a stage further and came up with alternative designs, but still with a nod to Stiletto and Rapier, one of which (Fisherman - middle one) had a lift-off superstructure for my version, as that is my preference with many models. I then further modified the Sports version (top one) for my water-jet project which I'm yet to start.

Unfortunately we never got round to actually build one as other projects etc. came to the fore.

Hi JB,

Thanks for sharing the extra build pictures of your Classic Model Power Boat that used the Stiletto plan as an initial reference (possibly more like an inspiration?) but on closer inspection, is really quite different.

Making the boat the same sort of length as the Rapier may be co-incidental, but it is a size that I have found that works very well in any of our changeable Great British weather conditions that the smaller Stiletto could begin the struggle with.

Your construction method is very different to give a lighter weight build and looks very nice and tidy.

The lift-off superstructure is a feature that gives easy access to everything inside the hull, and is a major change to the LesRo style of integrated construction that only has access through the lift-off cabin tops.

Another fairly significant change is the cable drive (flexi-shaft) that would change the way the hull sits in the water when being driven quickly. I would imagine that my conventional shaft driven Rapier (similar size to your model) rides with the bows up a little higher when it is on the plane. Are you using a surface piercing propeller with your flexi-drive shaft?

Like yourself, I considered fitting trim tabs on my first Rapier model when I had just completed restoring it. I did actually fit a pair and tested them for a few weeks, but I eventually preferred to adjust the balance of the boat to give the same effect without them .

The trim tabs proved to be quite a "pain" on a model of this size, shape and weight as they always needed to be protected from damage during transport, and being quite sharp they could also inflict damage to anything they could brush against - including flesh!

Your attention to detail on your model is also very good with nicely built hand rails etc, and I really like the small swimming platform too.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
re the Stiletto, the plan was just used as a reference, but the whole boat has been changed. The deck sheer is different, construction method is different, cabin position is about 50mm forward and lifts off in one piece (did away with the box build structure inside, now fits over a coaming) drive is cable, which makes it ride spot on and dead level (laterally). As you can see, the boat sits with the chines out of the water due to it being a lot lighter.

I was worried it might have affected the handling, and contemplated making the V shallower, but thought I'd leave it as is and use trim tabs if it had a problem. It worked out perfectly straight off which was a bonus. The rocker in the bottom makes it automatically sit up at the bow when running, especially with the cable drive.

Your cabin mods should look good once finished. The original cabin didn't look right to me, the boat looked unbalanced. Your new windows are a big improvement.👍

JB

Stiletto/Rapier.

Hi JB,

After taking a better look at your pictures, your Stiletto is very interesting as you have scaled it up to be the same size as the Stiletto's larger brother, the Rapier.

These hulls really do drive very well and have a performance that I would never have expected when I restored my first Rapier during the Covid lock-down.

Building the boat with a glassed balsa wood construction probably makes your "Rapier" a bit lighter than mine so maybe it needs less power to drive it too?

I also like your cabin modification. The original upper cabin windscreen never did look very good, and yours looks much better.

Another Rapier (my third Rapier) recently came into my possession (via eBay) and one of the detail changes I will be making will be to improve the same wheelhouse windows feature.

On my first Rapier restoration I chose to make a wrap-around plywood "mask" to change this feature, but I think that your version looks a bit more "open" and works well with the tinted glass - as do the updated window shapes.

Nice work - well done !

The additional pictures show my second Rapier that I was working on about two years ago(!) - another unfinished project - but it shows the changes that I have made to the wheelhouse to try to improve the appearance.

I also extended the cabin roof towards the rear as I changed the simple wrap-over piece of plywood that LesRo used as a roof to a properly constructed removable one to improve the access to this part of the boat.

The front cabin window was also raked forwards a little as the cabin sides were replaced. I have yet to replace or modify the rear cabin shape or windows, but it is a project that I would like to return to and complete.....soon!

Bob.

Hi JB,

Thanks for sharing your pictures with us - that is a fine collection of Classic Model Power Boats.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

here are a few oldies (and new old builds, restos)
first 2 are my own designs from the early 70s (OS MAX .40 powered)

Runabout is from a MM plan from the early 60s,- scaled up from from 18" to 32" and gas to twin HV electrics, with engine sound and stereo etc. Uses 2 -2200mah 2s Lipos, (for motors) 1 -1800mah LiPo (for water and smoke systems) and a 1s Li-ion for the stereo. Also tows a skiier

Stiletto is from a modified original plan from a S.A friend, and scaled up to 39" and bult using conventional glassed balsa on frames, rather than ply sheets and box construction. Also has a modified cabin, cable drive, stereo and engine sound unit, Uses a 1500KV heli outrunner and a 3s 3000MAh LiPo.

Fairacre is from a 60s MM plan. Ex IC powered. Rescued from a farm rubbish bin and restored. Uses 550 brushed motor and 2s LiPo.

JB

Suzie Q.

Drawn up by Vic Smeed and featured in the March and April 1965 Model Maker magazine, the prototype for this model was built from balsa and controlled with a single channel radio.

I bought the plans and built mine from plywood as I wanted to power it with an ENYA 19 water-cooled glow plug engine.

The super little boat 27" long model of a "typical" (at the time) off-shore racer shape proved to be another winner from Vic Smeed that I enjoyed running along with another of his Classic Model Power Boats from that same time period - the Remora "steering boat".

Both of these two models have aged rather better than may have been expected when they were first penned, and both respond really nicely to being driven fast with a modern brushless motor !

Bob

Hi Will,

I will look forward to seeing the pictures of your two Swordsman (SwordsMEN?) boats.

.......cant get enough Swordsman models.

I may be making one with a slight variant and call it a Sword Fighter ...sounds better than a Fencer!

Bob.

My SG&K 1920 Gentlemans runabout, scratch built to 860mm. 35mm 1100kv brushless, 60Amp ESC (mounted under the dash). 3S Lipo battery and 3 blade 37mm prop.
After these pics I add chine rails, just 4 x 4mm.
Harry

LesRo Rapier.

Just spotted this LesRo Rapier for sale on eBay today.

Anyone who fancies restoring a Rapier may be interested in taking a look at this one that is for collection only in the Staffordshire area.

I restored my own LesRo Rapier from a far worse example than this, and it has been a superb model boat to own and run and has become the boat that I have driven and enjoyed the most.

Bob.

I will have to add pictures of my two Swordsmen Bob. Admittedly, nowhere near as tidy as the one pictured though.

I have to admit that after you created this thread, I presumed we would see lots of Fairey Huntsman, maybe an occasional Swordsman, plenty of Aerokits boats, especially Sea Commander, but we haven't 😐

Will

Fairey Swordsman.

There have been surprisingly few pictures (none!) of this really nice Classic Model Power Boat on here so far, so I thought I would add this picture of one in action.

I built my first ever r/c model boat was built from an Aerokits Swordsman kit in the 1960's and I always loved the way that it performed.

Alongside this is a picture of the type of Launch Link radio control system that I used to control mine at the time .

Both are classics IMHO 🤓

Bob.

Hi Paul,

Good to hear about any Classic Model Power Boats that have not already been mentioned on here before.

Fitting a motor that has been taken from a strimmer into a Sea Queen is a classic choice of power unit that many off of us used back in the 1960's.

Back then Ohlison and Rice motors were popular - long before the currently popular Zenoah motors were generally available........but any ex-agricultural motor that looked like it could be squeezed in back then - often was!

If you have any pictures of your Sea Queens to share with us, it would be good to see them on here along with any interesting details like the size of prop shaft and propeller that you are using.

Unlike the smaller Sea Commander, there has been no reported handling problems with the larger Sea Queen.

Bob.

I have 2 Sea Queens 1 scratch built from plan and have fitted it with a 16 cc engine from a strimmer it plains very nicely Regards Paul L

Unknown Boat?

Can anyone help to identify this Classic Model Power Boat?

The boat is 36" long and looks like it could be a classic from the 1970's?

The design looks familiar to me, but I can't remember who made the kit - if it was a kit - or who drew the plans for it?

Here are a couple of different examples that are both currently for sale on eBay.

Bob.

I have never built a Jotika kit - or a new Sea Queen for that matter, but I do have an original unbuilt HHM Wavemaster kit and (I think) an original unbuilt LesRo Rapier kit somewhere too.

Both these original kits were only bought to draw around and copy the part shapes for future reference, but neither will be made.

As far as I remember, both kits are still complete - but given their reason for being here - making and replacing any missing parts would not be too much of a problem!

Bob.

I agree, the boats I sail most often are between 2 ft and one metre (my Robbe Police Boat is almost exactly one metre) - anything under 2 ft gets difficult to see on the water, anything over one metre is hard to store, difficult to carry downstairs, and makes loading the car harder as well.
I think I'm starting to regret the untouched Sea Queen kit I've got Upstairs!

I regard anything around the 3ft (36") measurement as being the ideal size for a Classic Model Power Boat that is going to get regular use here in the UK.

Any smaller and it may not be able to cope with the worst that our UK weather has to offer (especially for members of clubs with waters close to the coast or in particularly windy locations).....

Any bigger , and transportation, general handling, and storage can become a problem, so the 3ft boat hits the sweet spot.

There are obvious exceptions to this self imposed guide.

I have owned scale model working boats that are around this size, but are so heavy with ballast that I found it hard to handle and carry them and I was in danger of launching myself along with the boat every time I lifted it into or out of the water!

My Swordsman is less than 3ft (quite close at 33") but it is one of the best poor to bad weather handling hulls that I have ever raced in the open sea.

Slightly over the 3ft length at 39" is my LesRo Rapier. I have never raced this boat in the open sea, but even in the worst conditions that it has encountered, it would definitely give the Swordsman a very very good run for its money - from what I have experienced to date, it might even be superior!

The MFA Spearfish is another fine handling boat that can cope well enough, and the smaller 30" Remora just continues to astonish with its capability....and the well documented adventures with the Sea Commander show that it too can cope with almost anything once the keel has been modified as documented.

All of the above are of a size and weight that make them reasonably easy to transport and carry, so for me they all represent a very good choice for a Classic Model Power Boat that can be used every week throughout the year ...if the skipper is brave enough to face the weather - too hot, too cold, too windy etc etc........

Bob.

Yes, that was why I sold my big 47" Fairey Huntsman model, which was a pity as it was nicely built. The actual weight wasn't so much a problem (but that was a few years ago for me as well!) but it was unwieldy carrying it downstairs etc. I never got as far as launching it as I was going to install a brushless motor but that would have been a challenge as well.

I sold it to a fellow club member who did replace the motor and it looked really good on the water - as you say bigger models do. When I recently saw the club member he said he'd sold it on for the same reason!

That was my reason for deciding to build all my Faireys at a scale of 1:12, as even the biggest one will only be 33" long. My water-jet project is only an inch or so longer and that's as big as I want to go really.

Chris

I sold the large Crash Tender as it was simply too big for my modelling room. Having done that, I bought a Jotika Sea Queen kit, as yet unstarted.

The Veron Fast Patrol launch was nearly 4 1/2 ft long and no lightweight, but I was about half my current age then.

Big boats are great on the water, but a real pain to move around the house, especially with a model room upstairs and along a narrow landing.

Hi Dave,

It's probably a good thing that I live too far away from the seller of this Hanseat as it really is a big boat.

Buying it would be much easier that finding somewhere to keep it safe and getting it in the car would also take up too much space - but lifting it in and out of the water single handed could also be a bit of a challenge.

The large size Crash tender is another matter - I think I could handle one of those as they are just a bit smaller, not too heavy, don't have any handling problems (that I am aware of) .........and I really like them.

There is one being slowly restored in our clubhouse in Southport and I always make the time to take a good look at it.

It looks like it could be easier to manage than my Sea Queen because it is not so bulky.

Bob.

I remember seeing adverts for the Hanseat, but have never seen one in the real world.
It's bigger than the larger Crash Tender, and when I had one of those, it took up far too much room!

Sea Commander.

During the 1960's, the Sea Commander was one of the most popular Classic Model Power Boats to be built from the Aerokits range, helped by the good distribution and availability from almost every UK model shop.

The design and the shape of the model was very impressive and the "Sea Commander" name suggested that it had the capability to tackle anything that the Great British weather was likely to throw at it.

Being designed in the 1950's, the design was made suitable for "straight running" without any radio control by the inclusion of a deep keel shape that gave good stability that was also helpful when single channel radio control systems started to become available.

Later, when fully proportional radio systems become readily available and more powerful glow engines were fitted this same deep keel became a little counter-productive as it worked a little too well !

The long deep keel (and the increased torque of more powerful motors) worked against the rudder during some turning manoeuvres and became the reason why the nose of the boat had the tendency to "dig-in" and attempt a nose dive when turning right into choppy water.

This nose dive could be a little concerning when first encountered with the foredeck being awash with water as the Sea Commanders "wave breaker" diverts a lot of the water away from the main cabin front and disperses most of it over the decks.

The Sea Commander's nose dive could easily be overcome when the rudder was turned in the opposite direction or when the throttle was closed and natural buoyancy of the hull would regain the hulls composure.

Cutting away most (or all) of the deep keel allows the rudder to work more freely and also removes the tendency for the nose of the boat to dive when turning RIGHT into choppy water....and actually looks nicer too IMHO.

Finding the reason for this strange handling quirk and the simple fix needed to overcome it took some time, and I think it safe to say that I have never spent as much time working on the parts of any model boat that would not normally be seen!

No other model boat that I have had since the 1960's when I first started making, restoring and driving Classic Model Power Boats has ever needed this amount of development to get it to run "properly".

I have some other models from this era that also have an overly large keel shape, and I will be reducing them in depth to help them cope with the radio and power systems that we currently use.

It may be seen as sacrilege to the purist Classic Model Power Boat enthusiast to chop away some of the original keel shape, but I think it far more important to present these lovey original deigns working at their best when they are out on the water.

Sharing these findings with others that may be experiencing similar strange handling problems with their own Classic Model power Boats may even help to ultimately promote their more regular use !

.........especially as the problem can be so easily corrected - even on a boat that is fully built and has been in use with its original large keel shape for years !

** After the pictures of the Sea Commanders are the pictures on the right showing the amount of keel that I first cut off of my own Sea Commander, and the second pictures shows how it is now with even more of the keel removed. Both have improved the handling of the boat.

Bob.

Precedent Hanseat.

This very rare Classic Model Power Boat is also quite a big one at 51" long with a beam of 15". (1300mm x 330mm).

This is another model from the late 60's / early 70's, when an ic engine was always the first choice for most owners, and this comes with a Meteor 60, 10cc engine.

This particular example is for sale in Norwich with no option for delivery.......which as a shame as I would defiantly be interested if it was a bit closer to home.

Bob.

LesRo Rapier.

The Sportsman was accurately described by the seller on eBay as being "rare"...and he also accurately described another boat that he was selling as being "rare" too - it was a LesRo RAPIER.

This model had also previously been powered by an ic engine (normal for the time period), but the owner of this model had varnished the inside of the boat to protect it from being fuel soaked 👍

An original set of plans is also included - and these are even rarer than the boat !

No engine, fuel tank or servos in this one, but no fuel soaked interior to worry about either, so overall a better buy.

Bob.

The Sportsman arrived today, and I have just unpacked it.

I know why Will is a little concerned - I now have as many Sportsman boats as he does, and just like his, they both need some amount of restoration !

I will take a good look at this latest addition later and take some pictures to show the overall condition, but my initial inspection suggests that it is quite good - much better that the first one that I am working on - and the engine bays looks dry (not oily)!

That may not be the case when I remove the engine and fuel tank to see what I find underneath..............

Either way, this one is built better and I can see that it will be very helpful when restoring the first one.

Bob.

2x Sportsmen Bob, that's just greedy!! 😂
oh, hold on a minute 😇

I know, Pot and Kettle 🙄

Will

I saw that Sportsman, but decided against placing a bid as it seemed to have been used with an ic engine, and I don't enjoy reviving oil-soaked plywood!
It would also have added to the number of boats in the loft, mostly unstarted kits, but also a few awaiting restoration.

LesRo Sportsman.

This LesRo Sportsman was for sale on eBay recently, but had received no bids during the time it was advertised, so I placed the minimum bid….and won it !

The boat has an unknown glow plug motor in it and its manifold and silencer are still fitted - as is the fuel tank!

I suspect this will be another fuel soaked hulk, but I can see that some parts of it were put together better than the one that I am currently restoring.

With no luck at all finding any plans to refer to, I can make good use of this model and hopefully be able to fully restore at least one of them now that I have them both to refer to.

Bob.

Aerokits Sea Scout.

Will kindly added a pdf of the Sea Scout plans, and I thought it would be nice to see it here where it belongs with the other Classic Model Power Boats.

Bob

HMS Tiger.

A 1912 Power Boat - it has to count as a Classic Model Power Boat.

Bob

Nice work Adam, your first Classic Model Power Boat is also your first ever model boat build.

You are following in the footsteps of a lot of others (including myself) by building an Aerokits model as your introduction to r/c model boats.

The Sea Commander is a very good choice and the work done to eradicate the known handling fault now makes it an even better choice as it is a very easy fix that we can make to yours after it is skinned if you like?

I am looking forward to helping you whenever I can, and to seeing you with your original kit built Sea Commander on the Southport club lake when it is finished.

Bob.👍

Hi Bob

Very interesting post on the Sea Commander as I'm currently building my first Aerokit and watching your progress on the handling closely.

Adam

To bring us more up to date, this P706 Patrol Boat was also run on the Southport club lake this morning as well.

This is another well made and well detailed Classic Model Power Boat than ran very nicely.

I was intrigued to see the additional underwater stabilising fins (and weights) that had been added to help keep this narrow boat upright when running on the open Southport waters.

This boat is owned by the brother who sailed HMS Tiger’s with us this morning!

Bob.

Another Classic Model Power Boat that seen cruising majestically on the cold Southport waters this morning was this lovely model of a steam powered gun boat, based on HMS Tiger as it would have been around 1912.

The model looked great on the water was nicely finished with lots of detail.

Bob.

The cold weather and imminent threat of heavy rain did not prevent this lovely Classic Model Power Boat being driven on the Southport club lake this morning.

One of a collection of own-design cabin cruisers it featured the builders preference of running with a short prop shaft, but with an extension shaft to mount the motor in a more forward position.

The shaft has a double universal joint at each end, although it seemed to be perfectly aligned and so were only used to join the motor and the prop shaft together at a distance.

The boat ran very nicely and could run slowly for around 2 hours before a battery change was needed .

More sprightly driving would consume more power, but the boat looked good when it was cruising at any speed.

Bob.

My early Classic Model Power Boats were also made in the era of the film camera and any prints that I may have had of them at the time have been long lost!

Digital cameras made it much easier to take good pictures of your models and to see the results straight away, rather than having to wait for the prints to come back (in my case) from our local chemist.

iPhones made it even easier to picture (and make videos) of our Classic Model Power Boats and to share them on here.

I am hoping that we continue to see a lot more of them as they help to keep the old models that we used to see and sometimes build clear in our memories.

Bob.

About 35 years ago I bought a Veron Fast Patrol boat from a friend. I cleaned it up and repaired the damage it had sustained while laid up in my friend's loft.

At 52" length it was a pretty heavy thing to lug around, so I installed a large brushed motor and used two 12v lead acid batteries in series which helped it live up to its name. It was another victim of my clear out when I left the country. It was sailed many times on Black Park near Slough.

All this happened before the advent of digital cameras and mobile phones, so I have nothing but my fading memories of this impressive model.

Veron RAF Patrol Boat.

A few days ago I mentioned a Frog RAF Patrol Boat that I fancied buying when it was advertised on eBay, but by the time I found somewhere with an internet connection, it had been sold.

Today, I have been able to buy a used example of this Classic Model Power Boat from a UK model shop that looks to be quite tidy, so I was really pleased to find it.

My previous interest was with British Coastal Command boats from WW2, so this is a nice model for me to add to my fleet.

The first picture is of the boat that I bought today, and the second two are of the one that “got away”.

Some of the cabin roof detail is missing/different from the one that I failed to buy previously, so if anyone has a copy of the plans I would like to see them so I can add any details that may be missing.

Bob.

Marine ic engines.

Starting marine glow plug engines with a leather boot lace in our Classic Model Power Boats was the way to go for most of us in the 1960’s and as long as the glow plug was still alive and the battery had some life left in it, it was quite an enjoyable thing to do.

The whole theatre of preparing an ic model boat was something that I really enjoyed, but this could easily become a pantomime with a water cooled diesel engine!

I had a 5cc ED Viking, and have to admit that I never really took to it!

Changing it for an OS 40 Marine glow plug engine suited me a lot better.

Strange really as I used a lot of diesel aero-engines when I was a young boy in my various control line models and got on very well with all of them !

Bob.

Long Lost Classic Model Power Boats.

It would be nice if you could find your Sea Commander again Duncan.

I always hoped that I would get to see my original Remora and Suzie Q that I had to leave behind when we moved up north from Devon in the late 1980’s!

Not much chance I suppose….but you never know..😎

Bob.

This is an Aerokits Sea Commander from the very early 60's. It had a 3.5 cc diesel motor. I couldn't afford a decent R/c unit . I had a non proportional 2 channel radio control unit which I bought second hand. Often went to the lake and came back without sailing it as the engine was a devil to start. I was about 16 at the time so my Dad had to take me to the pond and was as frustrated as my self especially when he locked the car keys in the boot and had to call the RAC! Now with electric motors I deeply regret having sold it! Has anyone seen it sailing anywhere?