Started this about a week ago after acquiring circa 10 years prior . Really nice and easy build this one from
Early 1970s . I’m planning to run a brushed 540 on 8.4 - -16.8v . It’s only 28” so will scoot with that .
Currently at the glassing stage using west system 105 epoxy.
Also thinking of painting it in period correct 1970 gulf livery like the old ford race cars .
There isn’t much info available on these boats so they must be pretty rare .
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Started this about a week ago after acquiring circa 10 years prior . Really nice and easy build this one from
Early 1970s . I’m planning to run a brushed 540 on 8.4 - -16.8v . It’s only 28” so will scoot with that .
Currently at the glassing stage using west system 105 epoxy.
Also thinking of painting it in period correct 1970 gulf livery like the old ford race cars .
There isn’t much info available on these boats so they must be pretty rare .
Putting the deck on I realised this boat has an open top for a glow engine . As I’m using electric I need to cut out a new hatch without the hole .
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No matter what I do I always end up
With uneven surfaces and I have to do a tonne of fairing once it sets .
Sides went on today as did the deck which differentiated from the plan slightly as I don’t need an open cockpit for the engine .
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No matter what I do I always end up
With uneven surfaces and I have to do a tonne of fairing once it sets .
Sides went on today as did the deck which differentiated from the plan slightly as I don’t need an open cockpit for the engine .
@Schmango
100% with you on this one. For me it's a toss up if I can get a nice true surface, so I started tack glueing down the glass prior to applying resin. This was marginally helpful. On my last "fast" boat build I sanded the high spots after glassing, brushed on another coat of resin sanded again and then primed it to see what issues I had left. Bondo was then used on the "issues" and a light sanding followed. Tedious for sure, but I was good with the result. I often marvel at guys that fiberglass surfboards to an incredibly smooth surface, but then again they are working with large flat surface areas.
😉
Below is the deck it came with vs the deck I made without the hole for the ic engine . I cut a paper template and used a scroll saw to cut it out and shaped it down with a hand plane .
I made a rear lip at the stern to secure it in place so I won’t need screws . Will prob use a magnet at the front. The balsa was pretty dinged up and very low density so wasn’t easy to work with but we got there .
I’ve coated the deck in epoxy .
Next step is fairing the hull and adding the strakes . Lots and lots of fibreglass sanding coming up which I hate .
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Below is the deck it came with vs the deck I made without the hole for the ic engine . I cut a paper template and used a scroll saw to cut it out and shaped it down with a hand plane .
I made a rear lip at the stern to secure it in place so I won’t need screws . Will prob use a magnet at the front. The balsa was pretty dinged up and very low density so wasn’t easy to work with but we got there .
I’ve coated the deck in epoxy .
Next step is fairing the hull and adding the strakes . Lots and lots of fibreglass sanding coming up which I hate .
Any advice as to how I use 50 year old
Stickers ? There doesn’t seem to be an obvious peel method .
I’d like to use the originals but I wonder if they are deteriorated beyond function ?
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Any advice as to how I use 50 year old
Stickers ? There doesn’t seem to be an obvious peel method .
I’d like to use the originals but I wonder if they are deteriorated beyond function ?
@Schmango
They look like water slides decals, based on the discolored ring around them. Some Micro-Sol or a similar product may aid in bringing them back to life by softening them and making them more pliable. Testors and Tamiya make similar products I believe. Also, a light overspray of Krylon clear might be advisable. But before I do that I would cut a corner of the sheet they are on and do a test spray to make sure the Krylon won’t wrinkle the paper.
Today I went super aggressive with 80grit sandpaper to fair the high points in the epoxy . This was hard going ! In some areas I went through to the timber and also exposed some of the cloth before applying another coat of epoxy.
I purchased some sample paint to see how it would look brushed on . This is just normal water based acrylic . My plan was to use that then clear coat over the top vs spraying it on. I don’t think I will go this way after testing the results .
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80 grit working hardFairing done - time for another coat of epoxy . Colour testing
Today I went super aggressive with 80grit sandpaper to fair the high points in the epoxy . This was hard going ! In some areas I went through to the timber and also exposed some of the cloth before applying another coat of epoxy.
I purchased some sample paint to see how it would look brushed on . This is just normal water based acrylic . My plan was to use that then clear coat over the top vs spraying it on. I don’t think I will go this way after testing the results .
@Schmango
100% been there!
A good automotive sandable spray primer and a decent block like these "Gator" blocks from the hardware store forgive a lot of glassing problems.
The first time I glassed a hull I was so aggravated with myself that I almost tossed the whole thing in the bin, but I masked up, went outside, and used my electric palm sander and saved it.
😉
Getting the motor aligned took me hours ! It’s hard going and fiddly .
The 29T motor will be swapped for a 21T spinning the 34mm prop.
The rudder is massive overkill that comes in the kit . Was tempted to trim it down but I also want to keep it original . If it impacts performance I will .
Made the exhausts out of a hobby knife cut in half - works a treat as water outlets
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Getting the motor aligned took me hours ! It’s hard going and fiddly .
The 29T motor will be swapped for a 21T spinning the 34mm prop.
The rudder is massive overkill that comes in the kit . Was tempted to trim it down but I also want to keep it original . If it impacts performance I will .
Made the exhausts out of a hobby knife cut in half - works a treat as water outlets
Marked the spray rails according to the plan then more sanding and a final coat of west system 105 epoxy . This completes construction of all the woodwork .
Epoxied the shaft in at the same time as coating the hull.
Painting is next .
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Marked the spray rails according to the plan then more sanding and a final coat of west system 105 epoxy . This completes construction of all the woodwork .
Epoxied the shaft in at the same time as coating the hull.
Painting is next .
4 coats of epoxy , sanding each time to remove low spots has taken me ages ! Finally into some painting to make the boat start looking nice. Of course once painting I can see some small sanding marks that need to be sanded out further .
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4 coats of epoxy , sanding each time to remove low spots has taken me ages ! Finally into some painting to make the boat start looking nice. Of course once painting I can see some small sanding marks that need to be sanded out further .
Possibly the most delicate part of the build so far - applying nearly 60yo decals . No surprise they were incredibly fragile and came apart .
I think I’m going to keep them though for authenticity even though they are a bit rough .
What does everyone think ?
My plan is to spray them with clear acrylic once they dry . Hope they stay in place .
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@Schmango
Keep them. They look cool for a super fast looking racer! Even I teeny bit of white paint on the splits wouldn't hurt the effect. I like them!
😀👍
@Schmango The original decals look authentically aged and suite the boat nicely.
I would give them a good coating of polyurethane varnish and keep them on your boat just the way they are.
If you prefer to “tidy them up” a bit, a small brush with some white paint as jumpugly suggested should take care of that for you before adding the varnish,
Nice job - the model looks good
Some pictures of it would make a nice addition to the Classic Model Power Boats thread that we have running on here for boats just like yours !
Happy to help and glad they arrived safely! I hope they will be useful. Looking forward to the pix!
👍🏻😁