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    Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
    by robbob ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    97 Posts 281 Comments 589 Photos 758 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ The next project...........
    6 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Since completing this model have started work on a new boat and I promised those following my Crash Tender build blog that I would post an update here.

    The new model is a โ€˜Thames River Police Launchโ€™ constructed from a kit by Vintage Model Works.

    The new blog is here:
    https://model-boats.com/builds/view/47891

    I'll try to update the blog regularly as I have plenty of 'photos detailing the construction since June 2018.

    I hope that you will enjoy following this new build and I welcome all comments and suggestions...... and if you like the updates please hit the 'like' button ๐Ÿ‘

    Robbob.
    https://model-boats.com/builds/view/47891
    ๐Ÿ”—

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    ๐Ÿ“ Seat Trials and mods.
    9 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Itโ€™s been a while since the boat had itโ€™s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and Iโ€™m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle.

    Sadly I still donโ€™t have any decent video of the boat yet as I canโ€™t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro.

    When I do the video Iโ€™ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe Iโ€™ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shotsโ€ฆthe storyboard is already building in my head!!

    These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to.
    I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally.
    I did this in the โ€˜domestic test tankโ€™ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape.

    The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to โ€˜offโ€™ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPoโ€™s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outingโ€ฆ..DOH !!

    The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakesideโ€ฆnot very practical.
    The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable.
    I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord.

    I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs.

    I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boatโ€ฆ.blog coming soon.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Seat Trials and mods.
    9 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi Rob, thank goodness these changes/modifications have come before I get to that stage so I can incorporate them in mine. The boat looks really good on the water, and if ever I get to your neck of the woods I'd really like to see it close up as it's certainly an inspiring build. My build is coming on OK but the detailing takes such a long time to get it to the right standard, but this is the enjoyable part of modelling for me. The other thing that's slowing things down is my 5 year old grandson who wants a boat as well so I'm building a Freeman 22 alongside my crash tender.
    PS keep us informed of any other updates
    Michael

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Seat Trials and mods.
    9 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Michael.
    I know what you mean about distractions, I'm building an Amati 'ship in a bottle' model of the American warship 'Hannah' for my 5 year old granddaughter, also called Hannah.
    It's a real challenge on the eyes and fingers...seemed like a good idea at the time...๐Ÿค“
    If you want to see the Crash Tender close-up and have a chat I'll be showing it at the St. Albans model club exhibition in September, details are on the 'events' page.
    Rob.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Sea Trials and mods.
    3 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Sea Trials and mods.
    3 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    I have just been watching your video again of your Crash Tender on the water. I do have a couple more questions, first is what motor is in her and second is she going full throttle on the water or not. Sorry to be nosey.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Display stand and transport case.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    In preparation for the first public showing of my boat I have made a new display stand that looks a bit prettier than the first one I made.
    Itโ€™s designed to be more in proportion to the boat and to give a better view of the hull and I have included some model-boats.com stickers that are available in the site shop and also some Vintage Model Works logos kindly supplied by Mike Cummings at VMW ๐Ÿ‘

    As a finishing touch I have ordered an engraved brass plate giving some details of the original craft.
    I also found a wheeled flight case on eBay that the boat fits into perfectly without any adjustment to the existing foamed interior but I will have to re-make the mast to allow it to fold down for safety, not bad for ยฃ50 ๐Ÿ˜

    The new stand fits into the base of the flight case but the boat also sits on some foam blocks for added support.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Display stand and transport case.
    2 years ago by neilmc ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    After all the effort and care you've put into this build excellent idea to keep it safe.Your build blog is amazing and although i'm learning with Doug's and DaveM help on shaft re position I will be using some of your tips when I get to the deck fittings and cabins ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

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    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hey Rob, has it got wet yet? or have I missed the water trials?

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Simply magnificent, museum+ quality, and too good to hide in a museum ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    I too have learned much about fixtures and fittings from following your immaculate blog
    Would love to know where the wheeled flight case came from, could help me with my 4 and 5 foot ships!!
    Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Paul & Doug
    Still dry I'm afraid, water levels at my local lakes are still very low and weedy ๐Ÿ˜ก.
    I couldn't find a 700 size heli case like yours so I scoured s/h flight case merchants and the like until I found a suitable used flight case on eBay.
    Picked it up from Derby yesterday and the boat fits in it like a glove ๐Ÿ˜

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    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I love boxes! Kind of "finishes things off", especially as I knock things about with my clumsy hands, ๐Ÿ˜

    Now stop chickening out, and get it dunked๐Ÿ˜œ

    Are you going to Blackpool? All being well I'm going, we can have a Fireboat special handshake club!๐Ÿ˜‰

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    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I keep thinking about selling mine, its not getting used, but the amount of hours we put in, how do you put a price on that?

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    2 years ago by neilmc ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Pmdevlin you could donate yours to a caring amateur like me ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Paul.
    Blackpool show?
    It will be a bit too far 'up country' for me (London boy) anyway.
    What ever happened to the "Fireboat Day" that might be a good thing to do if anything.

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    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    don't know why I thought you where lake district?

    Yeah, I went to the first few, out Derby way, it was great fun, run by the God of Fireboats, Peter Dimberline, but then other boats crept in, and the theme was lost. This website was originally only for aerokits Fireboats, but had to grow to survive, as we are the few!

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Perhaps time to do something similar then?.
    Anyone interested?
    Derby is definitely do-able, I did it the other day (sorry about the alliteration) ๐Ÿ˜œ
    Signing off now...time for my beddybyes.
    Night night all.

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    2 years ago by Flack ( Warrant Officer)
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    Brilliant looking Model Rob - good to meet you the other day.

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Shaun.
    It was a great pleasure meeting you too, and thanks for the cuppa and the chat ๐Ÿต๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘.
    I hope you have been reading and enjoying my fireboat build blog and comparing notes.
    Good luck fitting the hatch magnets.
    Rob.

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    1 year ago by hmsnostalgia ( Recruit)
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    Well Robbob, congratulations on whetting your baby's head, sorry, it's perfect botty ๐Ÿ‘. I LOVE Your attention to detail & quest for perfection, and I can't wait to see it in person!!. What's next Rob?. ๐Ÿ‘

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    1 year ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Hmsnostalgia and welcome to the website.
    Glad you are enjoying my blog and thanks for your complementary remarks.
    What next?, well I'll be starting a new boat quite soon and posting a build blog once I have enough verbiage and pictures to post
    ......watch this space ๐Ÿ˜œ.
    I may be going to the Warwickshire show next weekend, might see you there๐Ÿ‘.
    Robbob.

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    5 months ago by Mariner85 ( Leading Seaman)
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    Beautiful craft. Like the detail!

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    ๐Ÿ“ Secure the hatches and raise the flags !
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace ๐Ÿ˜ฑ!
    Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes.
    I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box.
    A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares !
    For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls.
    The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation.
    An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets.
    For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door.
    I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a โ€˜hook toolโ€™ from some brass wire for this purpose.
    The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on itโ€™s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays.
    The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass โ€˜hook toolโ€™ to release it from the magnets hold.
    So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now thereโ€™s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing!
    The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff.
    The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the 1:12 scale of my boat.
    His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !!

    Mike can be contacted at: scaleflags@outlook.com or by telephone on 01476 573331

    They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet.
    The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find itโ€™s own position.
    A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down.

    So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action.

    Thatโ€™s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for itโ€™s maiden voyage.

    I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process ๐Ÿ˜

    And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice ๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ˜

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Secure the hatches and raise the flags !
    2 years ago by rolfman2000 ( Warrant Officer)
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    I can't wait to see this beauty in its natural habitat to see how it performs. Thanks for such an engrossing blog and a fabulously detailed construction.Kindest wishes, Dave W.
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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Dave.
    Glad to hear that you enjoyed my blog.

    I may be doing another one quite soon, all a bit 'hush hush' at the moment and too early to say much about it ๐Ÿ˜‰.

    Meanwhile I need to get this one in the water, just as soon as the lake fills up and the weed dies down ๐Ÿ˜ก

    Robbob.

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    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    I cant wait to see her on the water performing. Also look forward to your next build. Any hints on what she might be ?

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Secure the hatches and raise the flags !
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Boatshed.
    Sorry, not until everything is agreed ๐Ÿค
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Secure the hatches and raise the flags !
    2 years ago by colinstevens ( Recruit)
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    Sorry that this is now coming to an end, really enjoyed reading all about you're build. The attention to detail was superb. Looking forward to you're next build. Could you announce in this blog, so I dont miss it.

    Hope the sea trials go ok, cant see a reason why the shouldnt.
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    2 years ago by lezz57 ( Able Seaman)
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    Hi its been a pleasure to read and has got me motavated so much so i have just bought the kit so thank you
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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi lezz57.
    Good choice ๐Ÿ‘
    I hope you have as much fun as I have building your crash tender.
    Please do consider doing your own build blog, they are very helpful and generate a lot of interest and encouragement from the readers.
    All the best.
    Robbob๐Ÿ˜

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    2 years ago by Inkoust ( Warrant Officer)
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    Greetings from the Czech republic. I miss my hat, I have not seen a job as long ago as it was done on your model - the mop.
    Zdenek๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜ฒ

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hello inkoust.

    Dฤ›kuji ๐Ÿ‘
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    2 years ago by John2 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Very impressive, you should be very proud of your work!
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    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Rob,
    make sure you video the maiden! Also, I would recommend short runs, and keep an eye on esc/motor heat etc, but I'm sure you know all this!
    best of luck

    Paul

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Paul.
    I will certainly video the maiden voyage, I'm just waiting for the lake conditions to improve.
    Thanks for the good advice as always.
    BTW. I like your 'noisy fireboat', sounds really good, those transducers are very effective ๐Ÿ‘
    Best.
    Rob.

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    2 years ago by jaffy012 ( Able Seaman)
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    hi can you help me i have purchased the 46" vosper, and i have looked every where for the brass nails, i have the brass pins but are no help, can you tell me where in uk i can buy them, i would much appreciate it, i live in australia and ive tried everywhere here, i think your build is out of his world, i only hope mine will look like yours, hoping for reply, colin๐Ÿ‘

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    2 years ago by jarvo ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi jaffy, try Cornwall Model boats, there website is superb

    Mark

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Jarvo is right, look here
    http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000029.pl?TB=A...

    cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000029.pl?TB=A&GB=&SS=brass%20pins&PR=-1&PG=&REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2ecornwallmodelboats%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fnuts_bolts_screws%2ehtml&PN=2
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Colin.

    Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your good choice of model ๐Ÿ‘.

    I bought all of the brass pins I used from a UK based eBay seller

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-2...

    I can't imagine that something similar would not be available in Oz, try a good joinery or cabinet makers supply outlet.

    I mostly used the 15mm size and used, quite surprisingly, a total of around 500 ๐Ÿ˜ฑ.
    These pins have a tapered head rather than a flat one so that they can be punched flush, or just below the surface of the wood very easily.
    This is important when pinning the side and bottom skins so that the pin hole can be filled and sanded to give a very smooth surface for finishing.
    Also, when pinning the thin wood strips always pre-drill the wood to stop the wood from splitting.
    I'm not sure if CMB supply this type but Javro, who replied earlier, may be able to confirm this.

    Good luck with the build and please do think about posting a build blog on this site and ask as many questions as you need to.

    As I discovered, the help and advice you will get will be invaluable.

    Rob.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-25mm-30mm-40mm-CHOOSE-QTY-FREE-P-P-/161327078311?var=&hash=item258fd7dba7
    ๐Ÿ”—

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Secure the hatches and raise the flags !
    10 months ago by molly ( Recruit)
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    many thanks i will try them and again thanks for all your advice, colin

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    ๐Ÿ“ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated.
    I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. Iโ€™m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication.
    The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed.
    The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft.
    The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel.
    The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated.
    I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems.
    The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom โ€˜exhaustโ€™ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free.
    The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible.
    The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard.
    The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position.
    The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately.
    All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case ๐Ÿ˜ฒ!!.
    The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security.
    With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the โ€˜operateโ€™ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well.
    The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings.
    The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns ๐Ÿ˜

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by Rookysailor ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    A very neat well built 'firefloat', just one point,are you fitting the fuel filler caps? have not noticed them in your build.

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    2 years ago by Midlife306 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Omg, what a quality job!!! A credit to you sir๐Ÿ‘
    Out of interest, where did you source the spring clips from?
    Cheers
    Wayne

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Super neat job ๐Ÿ‘
    Is that Hammerite 'down below' ?
    Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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    2 years ago by AllenA ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Their are some things which you admire there are others to which you aspire. Utterly beautiful Robbob. To repeat RNinMunich, is it hammerite?

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Rookysailor
    I have indeed included all of the filling points on the deck, there are various for oil, fuel & fuel sounding (dipstick?), foam and fresh water.
    Fortunately I have a drawing, courtesy of Mike at Vintage Model Works, that details them all.
    Rob.

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Wayne.
    Thank you for your compliments.
    The hose spring clips came from eBay.
    Ten each of 5/6/7/8/9 mm, only ยฃ1.55 including shipping from China.
    About a ten day delivery but still a real bargain.

    Here's a link if you're interested.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50Pcs-Spring-Clip-Fuel-Line-Hose-W...
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50Pcs-Spring-Clip-Fuel-Line-Hose-Water-Pipe-Air-Tube-Clamps-5-6-7-8-9mm-Fastener-/252673240504?hash=item3ad47fadb8
    ๐Ÿ”—

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Doug and AllenA.
    Yes, it is indeed good old Hammerite ๐Ÿ‘
    I sealed all the interior surfaces with a couple of coats of sanding sealer and then two coats of the silver Hammerite on the hull bottom, sides and bulkheads and it gives a quite an attractive finish which is very durable.
    It was recommended by VMW in the build instructions and I'm very pleased with the result ๐Ÿ˜

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by Rookysailor ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Rob,
    Many thanks for the info on the filling points, I did get a set of white metal fittings from Mike at VMW, but did not get an info sheet as to where they go,Mike kindly supplied me with many information sheets though, now I see yours, I will amend my Fireboat, but still not as perfect as yours,excellent workmanship.

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    2 years ago by AllenA ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Obvious when you think of it. Superb finish and strengthener I guess. Thanks Robbob

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thought so! Good idea as it's also very easy to keep clean - repels virtually everything and anything ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Will do the same with my Sea Scout - also have the silver or have a nice Royal Blue somewhere๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by Midlife306 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks for the link to the clips, I've ordered 3 sets, I like a bit of stock๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers
    Wayne

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    3 sets ๐Ÿ˜ฒ, that's 150 clips if my geography serves me well.
    Still, they're cheaper than chips so why not ๐Ÿ˜œ

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    2 years ago by robhenry ( Able Seaman)
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    I am very impressed with your superb work on this kit.
    Some years ago I provided a lot of data on my two boats to Mike together with Original Vosper data. I am pleased that his kits are doing well. [ I have an Aerokits 46" boat and a much newer 46" GRP hulled boat. Both have twin drive trains and mixers. ] I am surprised that you have not fitted false keels and twin props/drive trains to your
    boat as the Vosper boats had. ? Apart from good planing performance both of my boats can turn in their own length as the original 93 / 94 boats could do.
    I hope your boat looks as good on the water as your pics so far suggest.
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    2 years ago by saintsalvio ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    There is order and simmetry and aesthetic realization; real outstanding work!

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi robhenry
    Thank you for your complimentary remarks.
    I didn't really consider building the boat with twin motors and rudders as I wanted to build the kit 'out of the box' to a great extent and also because I was rediscovering the hobby and all of the new technology and techniques that it now benefits from.
    With the experience I and knowledge that I have now gained I would be not so hesitant to consider such things.
    I'm grateful for your contribution to Mike's data on the RAF boats as it will have no doubt filtered down to the benefit of my boat build.
    As I have discovered, surprisingly little information on these boats exists or has been made public despite their popularity with model builders and it would be a great thing if everyone were to pool their knowledge and resources to try and redress this situation.
    I will certainly try to photograph the boat in action if I can manage the controls and a camera at the same time ๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Salve Saintsalvio.

    Grazie per i tuoi rimedi gratuiti sul mio lavoro di costruzione della barca.
    รˆ molto soddisfacente sapere che il mio sforzo รจ riconosciuto.

    Spero che "Google Translate" abbia reso leggibile la mia risposta.
    ๐Ÿ˜
    Saluti.
    Robbob.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by Midlife306 ( Warrant Officer)
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    And Tuti-Fruity from Lancashire ๐Ÿ‘

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Tuta-Fruiti e Tutti-Fruiti aus Mรผnchen!! ๐Ÿ˜‰

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    What a truly international bunch we are ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The electrics, drive & radio
    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    The Hobbyking 10mm square magnets(magnet to magnet) work well and are very cheap.
    Canabus

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi canabus.
    I like your thinking and that's precisely what I have used, although not from Hobbyking. A much better choice of sizes and shapes can be found on eBay.
    Rob

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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Robbob
    I see you have a Turnigy motor is your boat with what type of prop?
    At present I have a 3648-1450kv with a 40 mm 2 blade prop.
    I have not ran the boat as so, but I think it will work.
    I received my planned motor is week a Turnigy L5055c-700kv-1600watts and a 52mm 2 blade prop.
    I have two 4S 5800mah batteries ready for my boat.
    The other motor as of today is moving into a Precedent Huntsman 34 which I won on line.

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    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Canabus.
    The prop is a 50mm 2 blade X type, I have yet to run the boat but I'll be happy with a scale speed rather than speed performance.๐Ÿ˜

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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    HI Robbob
    Depends on the motor power, kv and size batteries.
    My club mate runs a Spearfish on a 3639-1100kv 800watts with a 2 blade X50 and we GPS it at high 30s(KPH).
    A bit smaller boat, but, it's quick.
    As it is winter in Tasmania 4-5 hours in the shed in the middle of the day is cool and we have not been hit with bad weather so far!!!
    With the repaint of my Sea Hornet and painting of my new runabout, the tender is still going to be in the water next summer(finished or not).
    Also I have a Huntsman arriving tomorrow that requires a lot of TLC !!!!

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    ๐Ÿ“ The suction hoses โ€“ part 4.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    After test fitting the hose ends to establish the correct lengths the hoses were trimmed to size and the fittings were then glued into the hose ends with some epoxy.
    On the real boat the hoses are arranged to lay on the tops of the foam tanks and they are supported on the stern coaming by a bronze hook.
    I formed this hook from some brass sheet so that it holds the hoses firmly one above the other, this was primed and finished in gunmetal grey and fixed to the coaming with a couple of brass rivets and a spot of epoxy.
    For a bit of extra security I cut some large diameter heat shrink to form some bands around the hoses to hold them together.
    So now the hoses are all finished and I think they look really good, Iโ€™ll probably re-polish the brass fittings and apply a light coat of lacquer to keep them nice and shiny at a later stage ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 4.
    2 years ago by Missouri ( Recruit)
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    The hoses, along with every other aspect of the build are really good. The boat is a credit to model making. it's wonderful that the asylum has these facilities, and modelling is such good therapy ๐Ÿ˜‰. You must show the boat in action now. Well done bro.๐Ÿ˜Š

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 4.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Thanks you for your generous words kind sir. Model making is indeed a good therapy and I'm so grateful that the staff here allow me to use sharp implements unsupervised but I still have to wear the special jacket which is rather limiting ๐Ÿ˜œ Must go now...have to take my meds.....
    PS. who is bro?

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 4.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    ?? Asylum ?? So which one are you in. You must find it hard in that canvus jacket doing all those fiddly bit's. I find it hard to do move about in mine. But then Alice Cooper found he could do things in his. ๐Ÿ˜Š.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The suction hoses โ€“ part 3.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The remaining hose fittings are the male & female connectors and fortunately require nothing more than drilling to take the four short brass โ€˜turning handlesโ€™ which were soft soldered in place and then filed to length.
    The suction hoses themselves proved far more difficult to make to a satisfactory standard and after several experiments with different gauges of copper, steel and stainless steel wire I found a 1.25mm galvanised โ€˜garden wireโ€™ that proved malleable enough to be formed into a long coil spring that when covered with some black heat shrink tube looked OK.
    I used a length of 8mm diameter aluminium tube as a former and hand wound the galvanised wire tightly around the tube to form a spring. This was a painful process, quite literally, and caused blisters on my thumb and forefingers despite wearing protective gloves ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    The springs were then stretched out on the rod to space the coils evenly and then drawn through the heat shrink tube, and then a heat gun used to shrink down the tube onto the springs.
    While the newly formed hoses were still warm and pliable I put them on a former with the correct curvature and applied a little more heat and then left them to cool and set.
    The hoses were made over length so that, when finished, I could trim them to the correct lengths to fit into the rear well of the boat with the fittings attached.
    See part 4 for the final assembly...coming soon.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 3.
    2 years ago by colinstevens ( Recruit)
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    outstanding work sir
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 3.
    2 years ago by Dave M ( Rear Admiral)
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    Very impressive looking hoses.
    Next time you should ask your lathe helper to make the spring for you an his lathe, it will be a lot less painful.
    Dave

    lathe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 3.
    2 years ago by mbarker ( Recruit)
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    Nice way to make hoses ! , very good !. ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ“ The suction hoses โ€“ part 2.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The next piece I tackled was the bulkhead connector to which the assembled hose is connected.
    This is not a particularly complex piece but I had to engineer itโ€™s attachment to the bulkhead to allow for easy removal.
    As with the suction pickup I added four short pieces of brass as turning handles to the โ€˜cover capโ€™ for the want of a better description, this cap would be undone to reveal the male connector of the pump intake and the cap would have a retaining chain. This chain would presumably be attached to the bulkhead in some way but I needed it to attach to the base of the fitting.
    I drilled a hole through the spigot on the cover cap and formed a loop from some brass wire for the chain attachment. Similarly I drilled the base and made another wire loop for the chain attachment there. I didnโ€™t have any suitable chain so I thought I would have a go at making some by winding about 20 turns of brass wire around a piece of thin brass rod which I then cut through lengthwise with a hacksaw to produce some brass loops. These loops were then flattened, linked and closed to form the chain and a short length of the finished chain attached to the fitting. Very fiddly work and a test of the eyesight ๐Ÿค“

    As mentioned, I needed to make the fitting easily removable without using screws or a threaded stud as it needs to be removed without tools to allow the cockpit floor to be lifted out.
    To achieve this I put a 3mm thread into the rear of the fitting and then threaded a piece of 3mm brass rod to go into that.
    I made a retainer to go into the bulkhead that would provide a friction fit for the hose connector.
    This was made from a short length of 3mm I/D brass tube set into another short supporting piece of 4mm I/D tube and a piece of 14 swg brass plate, all the parts were silver soldered together with the 3mm tube protruding the plate by the thickness of the bulkhead. The 3mm tube was cut crossways to form some โ€˜fingersโ€™ that will grip the 3mm shaft of the fitting. To provide extra grip I used a piece of rubber sleeve and a small pipe clip over the โ€˜fingersโ€™.
    This piece was glued into a 4mm hole in the bulkhead with the end of the tube flush with the bulkhead.
    The hose connecter is then pushed into this retainer with a firm friction grip but is easily removed without any tools.

    Definitely getting the hang of working with brass now ๐Ÿ˜
    Still not inclined to by a lathe though ๐Ÿ˜œ
    The remaining fittings should be a lot easier...I hope.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 2.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    Once again that is brilliant. fantastic finish. Have you finished the rest of the hose yet? i cannot wait to see the finished hose. Will that be part three?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 2.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Boatshed.
    Possibly two more on the hoses and then a few more on remaining bits & bobs.

    Maiden voyage very soon.

    Already thinking about what to build next... suggestions ?

    Rob.

    build
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 2.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    Looking forward to seeing the fully finished Crash Tender and video of her on the water.
    What about a Vosper MTB with motorized torpedo's.
    Not exploding though.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 2.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Interesting suggestion...perhaps not the functional torpedo's, a bit anti social perhaps.
    There was an Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat on eBay very recently that I was tempted by, but the bids went too high.
    I'm thinking something more sedate but not sure what.
    Maybe a cabin cruiser ?

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    ๐Ÿ“ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    One of the distinctive features of the RAF fire boats are the suction hoses in the rear well of the boat, and they were something that I was keen to reproduce with some accuracy. They have been very successfully modelled by others and there are some fine examples of their construction on this site and consequently a wealth of tips and ideas on how to make them and I have shamelessly taken the best of them to make my own.
    The key elements are, of course, the fitting at the hose ends which probably would have been originally made of cast bronze or brass and machined and jointed to couple together to form the complete hose.
    To replicate this in anything other than brass would not be doing justice to the model, and as you may be aware, I have a brother who is also a skilled model maker, and he has a lathe and has previously made some excellent brass fitting for me.
    I started by studying the few photographs of the boat and some drawings supplied to me by Mike Cumming at Vintage Model Works and I made up some engineering drawings, one for each fitting, and emailed them off to my brother. I also ordered some 15mm brass bar to be delivered to him for the fittings and once he had approved my drawings, set about machining the parts.
    A while later the parts duly arrived in the post and they were excellently made exactly as my drawings and so I then set about adding some more detail to them.
    I only have one set of these fittings so I canโ€™t afford to make any mistakes and ruin them ๐Ÿ˜ฑ
    The most challenging fitting to be tackled was the suction pickup into which I wanted to inset some stainless steel filter mesh, so I carefully measured and marked off the areas of metal that needed to be removed.
    With the piece in the drill vice I cut a series of holes which were gradually enlarged, and then the remaining metal removed with files to form the square apertures.
    The collar of the fitting was then drilled to take some short brass rod โ€˜handlesโ€™ which were soft soldered in place and then filed to length.
    The stainless steel mesh was cut to fit inside the fitting with the join concealed behind part of the brass. The circular end cap was made by pressing the mesh into a piece of brass tube the same diameter as the inside of the fitting using a piece of brass bar as a mandrel.
    After thoroughly cleaning the fitting with some wire wool the mesh filter pieces were finally epoxied in place.
    Thatโ€™s the most difficult piece out of the way, much to my relief.
    One down, four to go ๐Ÿ˜

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    That is really some thing else. What a brilliant bit of work. How I envy. the detail you have put in on this build. I cannot wait to see what you put out for part two of this hose. Totally AWESOME.

    build
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Boatshed.
    Thank's for your generous comments but do bear in mind that these fittings are not all my own work.
    I have a wizard working behind the scenes, I'm just embellishing his work. ๐Ÿ˜œ

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by pmdevlin ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    great idea with the masking tape Rob, they look very nice๐Ÿ‘

    masking tape
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Paul.
    I thought I might try lamp black and a steel scribe but couldn't find a candle to make a dirty flame. Masking tape and pencil worked just as well.๐Ÿ˜

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    I know you said you have a wizard behind the scene's, ( your brother I believe ) but you have drawn up the plans and sent him.
    Then finished the job how you wanted it. So the idea's have come from you. just fantastic.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The suction hoses โ€“ part 1.
    2 years ago by colinstevens ( Recruit)
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    They look the business. Well Done.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ“ The Anchor.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I had previously assembled and primed the anchor, having added a little additional detail to the white metal castings, as described in a previous blog update.
    I subsequently added some plasticard pieces to the arm of the anchor to thicken it slightly so that I could fit a small brass shackle as a finishing detail.
    The final paint finish is Tamiya gunmetal metallic to match some other deck fittings.
    The anchor is held in place on the foredeck by a small double sided adhesive foam pad beneath the anchor base and the mounting pad it sits on.
    The base and arm is also retained on two other mounting pads buy couple of โ€˜staplesโ€™ that were formed by heating and bending some thin Plasticard rod into shape and they are just a push fit into some holes drilled into the mounting pads.
    The fixings are quite secure but as with many other items of deck furniture it can be easily removed for maintenance or repair.

    Sorry this is not a particularly exciting or interesting post but the next will be the suction hoses and fittings which were quite a challenge and will hopefully be a great deal less boring ๐Ÿ˜œ

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    2 years ago by rolfman2000 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Wow. I can't believe the detail you are including on your craft. I have just gotten hold of an original aerokits 46" to restore. I am now scared stiff of mine being a total heap of crap. I have followed this build since the start, and am starting to wonder if or when it's going to hit the water. Hope its not too long now ? Kindest regards, Dave W ๐Ÿ˜Š

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    2 years ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Dave.
    Very soon I hope.
    I think I have found a good place for the maiden voyage so I just need to do some final bits and bobs and it's good to go !
    I haven't built and run an R/C boat for years (45+) and I'm a bit scared I'll wreck it on it's first outing ๐Ÿ˜“
    Rob.

    anchor
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Rob, it's just really like riding a bike ( excuse the pun ) but once you get it out there on the water you soon remember. You just take it easy for a while until you get used to the one you are running. Unless you are like me and then after a while to get a bit over confident. That's when I find the concrete banks. But I also cannot wait to see her perform on water. I have also followed you build all the way through. You have put so much into her and so much detail. I have never gone into it that deeply. Awesome and a real credit to you.

    build
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    2 years ago by mbarker ( Recruit)
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    I like the anchor , such detail !๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    10 months ago by molly ( Recruit)
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    hi may i ask what size planking you used on the floors and how did you get the black effect between planks, many thanks colin๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Anchor.
    10 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Molly.
    The planking is 7mm x 1.5mm Maple and the caulking is 0.7mm black plasticard.
    Have a look at the 'Planking' sections in this blog to see how it was done.
    Robbob.

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