|||
Current Website Support
247
Contributors
10
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Save £50 when you join Bulb
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    7

















    Followers
    Revell Gato Class Submarine Conversion.
    by MouldBuilder ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Lieutenant)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










    Click To
    Follow
    13 Posts 100 Comments 0 Photos 33 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ WTC design.
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    Just a quick update today.
    I have spent my available time during the past week measuring and drawing all of the parts I need to fit into the WTC tube. The main tube is 500mm long and I have drawn the ballast tube with endcaps inside. I can now arrange all of the required items into the available space so that I can determine the battery sizes. I think I might be able to reduce the length of the ballast tube by 40mm. This I have determined using the tube that Martin555 used with success. I can get even more water in my design if needed.
    Tests will resume soon on the ballast system using Martin`s servo with mounted micro switch idea. I will fit two solenoid valves and possibly non return valves as well. The only real problem I would like to solve is regarding safety. I will look for a miniature pressure switch. They are around but choosing a suitable one is a little tricky.

    tube
    items
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    7
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    One thing i will say is when fitting in all the bits,
    remember the radius of the tube.
    The reason i say this is when i first worked out where everything was to go it looked great until you actually go to fit them.
    as you try to slide the bits in some bit's just clip the tube edge so it was a case of moving over by about 2mm.
    Dam radius!!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    I have accounted for this by drawing end views as well. This is why I have drawn all of the parts in all elevations. All will become clear when I start fitting them in.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Perhaps we can invent the first square Submarine?
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I probably had more problems because i had to use whatever components i had.
    That includes big servos and a large receiver.
    I assume you will be using much smaller equipment.

    Martin555.

    PS I really like your drawings.
    Nice work.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    My servos are small but the 40MHz receiver is like a book cabinet. What size, voltage, type and quantity of batteries have you used Martin.
    Peter.

    batteries
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    13 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Peter,
    These are the type of Batteries that i installed in my Gato.
    The measurements are approximately 130mm x 46mm x 24mm.

    Martin555.

    Batteries
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC design.
    12 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Thanks. Larger than I was expecting.๐Ÿค“
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Splitting The Hull.
    20 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    I had a busy weekend planned. It was time to split the hull. It is fair to say that I had been looking forwards to having a go at this. I had made the special tools last week ready for the split.
    The first job was to try to fix down the hull to a board perfectly level and rigid enough to ensure that it did not move during the cutting phase. The first thing was to find a suitable flat board, 12mm marine ply, and stick a 1โ€ strip of sandpaper right down the middle to help to reduce the risk of the hull sliding. This done, I placed the hull roughly central on the board and marked out the positions for the anchor points for the elastic bands and screwed them in. I used standard hooks for this. The bands, two at each end, were fitted. It was surprising just how rigid this was but the hull could still slide. To stop this, I had bought some angle brackets. They were to be screwed onto the board, one each side at the centre of the hull. These proved top be very weak and I could still move the hull. A search of the garage followed to find something suitable and I came across two Krick motor mounts which were left over from the Dusseldorf motors. I screwed these to the board and the hull was rigid.
    I fitted the Dremel to the special tool with four cable ties. These held it very well. I then set the height on the marker pen and tested it at each end of the weld line chosen as the split point. It was around 3mm out at one end so I placed two large washers at one end under the hull and this gave me level. I then checked to see if the hull was level across the width and twisted it until the pen made a mark at the same height on both sides using the weld line on the model as a point of reference. I them marked a cut line along both sides of the hull.
    Next up was to set the height of the slitting saw using the previously drawn line. This done, I then very carefully cut the side walls taking care to only taking shallow cuts as the Polystyrene melts very easily if heated. I did this in stages leaving the hull connected at each end, behind the bands and about ยฝโ€ in the centre to ensure stability when cutting the other side. I completed the cuts on both sides and then remove the hull from the board. The remaining sections still joined were then carefully cut with a 12โ€ hacksaw blade. Success!! I had two pieces.
    I then roughly cleaned up the cut joints and placed the two halves together. It was good.
    Finally, for today, I made and fitted a support brace at the stern end of the deck piece as cutting into two had left this area weak.
    Next time I will improve the cut surfaces, put locking devices on the deck half and location tabs to aid alignment.
    Thanks for reading.
    Peter.

    marker pen
    washers
    devices
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Splitting The Hull.
    20 days ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete,

    Great success, Job well done!๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers, Ed
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Splitting The Hull.
    20 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work Peter,
    Successfully completed the most nerve racking part of the Submarine conversion Well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Splitting The Hull.
    20 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Thanks guys. I enjoyed doing it a lot. I`m weird that way.๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Splitting The Hull.
    19 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
    Flag
    Tricky job well done.๐Ÿ‘
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Hull Splitting Tools.
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    I quickly made the hull splitting tools today but whilst doing them, I tried to ask myself why the marking tool. If you align the two ends when setting the hull on the board, why have a line to follow when the whole idea of the splitting tool holder is to ensure a straight cut. I made one and will use it anyway.
    I think I will split the hull at my factory during next week. There is much more room there and no wife to stop me doing the usual swearing.๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work Peter.
    When i split my hull i just followed and cut along the weld line as that is also the water line.
    I also discovered that a lot of swearing was not required.
    Perhaps i was just lucky!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Well Martin. I will let you into a little secret. The swearing is mandatory on my builds, as long as the good lady is not listening. Unfortunately, she has really good hearing. More telling offs for me!!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I think you will have to learn to swear in Morse Code. LOL!
    Just dots and dashes and no beep's.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    --. --- --- -.. / .. -.. . .- / -- .- .-. - .. -.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Peter,
    See you can do it without swearing!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull Splitting Tools.
    27 days ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    -...-.-.. .--..-..-.

    Cheers, Ed
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Completing the Hull.
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    The last thing to do before completing the hull was to cut all of the vent slots on the underside. I used various sized drills and chain drilled the larger slots and filed them to shape. There is still a lot of shaping by file to do but I am going to leave this for later when I am sure they will be easier to get at.
    I finally took the plunge and fixed the bow and stern assemblies to the main hull section. I used ordinary solvent cement which does create a strong bond, but will reinforce the joints with Stabilit once they become visible again. The next stage was to glue on the three main deck parts. It was a bit of a struggle to line them up exactly but In did the best I could. When gluing, care had to be taken to avoid contact at the front and rear segments so that a clean separation can be achieved when splitting the hull.
    Next job was to do the vertical cuts at the separation lines. I used my Dremel with a saw blade as usual. These cuts will form the end points for the main cuts.
    The next job for me is, as mentioned above, to split the hull. This is quite a tricky operation and requires a couple of special devices to be made. I am lucky enough to have all the machines required to make these at my disposal. I have started by cutting up the necessary pieces of wood. I will explain all on the next update when I have completed the separation.
    Thanks for reading.
    Peter.

    devices
    Dremel
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Hull.
    28 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    You are doing a really good job on the Gato conversion.
    It is surprising the amount of work required to convert it from a static model to radio control.

    Keep up the good work Peter.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Hull.
    27 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
    Flag
    I see the QC officer is there making sure everything is purrrfect๐Ÿ˜Š (sorry) Looks like a lot of work to convert these. Looking good so far.
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Hull.
    26 days ago by redpmg ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    Like your build Peter - first thought that you might have stolen my quality inspector - Willy even turns his head upside down checking on things to make sure they are correct - on a cold night a week ago he pulled my body-warmer off the back of a chair and inserted himself into it - you can see the resemblance !

    chair
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Completing the Aft Section.
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    The last few weeks have been taken up by trying to complete the fore and aft sections so that I can complete the first part of the build and have a completed hull. At the end of the last update, I mentioned that I had broken the dive planes in half. I checked the rigidity of the remaining stub and decided it had enough strength to stay. I prepared a 15mm length of 5mm brass tube which nicely fitted over the remaining lugs. I glued a piece of 4mm diameter aluminium rod inside so that I could drill a small hole in the middle to hold the control arm. I then glued the whole assembly together and had a nice strong dive plane again. I then filed out the bearing surfaces in the main sections to accommodate the larger shafts.
    I finished of the whole assembly with control arms and proceeded to fit the prop shafts and the rear bearing assemblies. This took a fair bit of fiddling and reshaping of the angled hole through the hull but finally, after a few hours, I was happy with the results. I held the assemblies in place with elastic bands and then, when happy, used Stabilit Express glue to fix and fill. I make sure that I am fairly generous with the glue so that when I tidy it up, there are no holes left behind. I glued around the prop shaft assemblies on the inside as well and got a little bit of glue on the dive plane control arm. Whilst wiping this off, Disaster number 2. The control rod came out of its hole in the dive plane. This hole is 2mm diameter but 8โ€ down inside of the aft section. Time for ebay. I found a pair of 11โ€ long nosed pliers for ยฃ4.50. I bought immediately.
    Today I decided to finish of the prop shafts by removing the excess glue. To do this I used small full round files, 240 grit wet and dry for roughing and 600 grit for finishing. This took a couple of hours but I am pleased with the results.
    Now for the repair. I used the extra long nosed pliers and tried to find the hole whilst looking up the torpedo tube. Very difficult. I then noticed that if I shined a bright LED light into the section and looked at the side, the light showed right through the side wall of the model and the control arm pin could be seen as a shadow. With this, I managed to push the rod back into place. Phew!! I will have to think of a way I can get a little fluid super glue onto the rod without gluing the dive plane rigid.
    My attention has now moved to the bow section. I have decided not to add retractable bow planes as this requires a lot of work for very little gain. I have, however, decided to fix the lift mechanisms in such a way that I can add retractable units at a later date. I hope for the next update I can complete this section and complete the hull section ready for splitting.
    The WTC is still under construction but I am getting help from Doug (Mr Fleet Admiral SIR) for the electronics to get it to do what I want it to do. The next ballast unit test might also feature in the next update.
    Thanks for reading.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜€

    pliers
    rod
    LED light
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Aft Section.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Well Peter despite having some tricky problems with the build you are making excellent progress.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Aft Section.
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    I had not followed this from the start as I'm not a sub mariner. However, having now read it from the beginning I found it most interesting. There's been some very nice machine work been carried out, I'm most jealous of your surface grinder, I have most engineering machines but I can't justify a surface grinder, but nice to have
    Applause for some nice work๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Aft Section.
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    At the moment I still have my factory Mike but not for too much longer. I will retire in the next few years and will have to do everything on bench machines. Looking forward to it really.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    I have decided to leave the ballast system for now. I am confident that my pressurised system will work very well but I have to source a much stronger solenoid valve. Ideas on this would be welcome but weight must be a consideration along with the tube connection size.
    I have turned my attention to the main build. My aim for this session was to complete the aft section and cut all of the weight reducing sections. The first job was to place all of the decking parts and forward and aft sections into place using tape and mark all around with a marker pen. The parts were removed and another line drawn about 6mm (1/4โ€) inside. This is so that any removed material will not be visible once the deck is fixed back into position. Lines were then drawn about 12mm (1/2โ€) each side of the hull half connection points and the large areas cross hatched to avoid mistakes.
    Time for the Dremel. I fitted the Dremel with a 25mm (1โ€) diameter 0.8mm (1/32โ€) rotary saw blade and very carefully cut all of the sections out. To join all of the cuts together, I used a 300mm (12โ€) hacksaw blade. Great care had to be taken with this process not only to avoid a visible cut, but also not to remove a finger. Regular counts were taken on fingers just in case.
    To complete this task. I carefully removed all of the plastic burrs with a needle file. These are quite severe with Styrene but relatively easy to remove. I was happy with the results of this cutting.
    The next item I addressed was the aft section. I had to try to assemble the two halves whilst installing the rudder, aft planes and their operating rods and connectors at the same time. I had previously made the connector rods and had carried out successful trials whilst holding the parts together with elastic bands. The time had arrived to glue the halves together with all of the parts in place. I assembled all of the parts again with bands and started to glue a part at a time. Disaster. I broke the aft planes in half. I was trying to be clever and keep this part in its original supplied condition and ignored previous builds that had strengthened this part. Not a good idea. I now have to try to repair this part and put in place even though both halves are now glued together. This is a job for the next update.
    Just a reminder, if anybody knows of a solenoid valve that fits the requirements, help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks for reading. Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š

    tape
    marker pen
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I am sorry to hear about the aft dive plan braking.
    Repairs would be a bit challenging.
    If it helps I drilled out the centre and inserted a piece of brass rod.( from tip to tip of the plains)
    One way that you could get over it is to cut out enough from underneath to enable you to fit the control horn again and then with glue and filler repair the cut out area.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I have already started the repair. I have a 16mm length of 4 x 3 brass tube and glued a 5mm length of solid Aluminium in the middle. I am going to drill the control arm hole in the centre and glue in place. Then I will slide the remaining plastic pegs of the planes inside the tube at each end and glue. This should sort it out.Thanks Martin.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Pete,
    I would be tempted to make new stronger planes from brass sheet anyway.
    Your "remaining plastic pegs" are going to be pretty weak and vulnerable!!
    On my Type 1A U-25 the planes are brass sheet connected by a 3mm brass rod.
    The rod is slotted at the ends to fit over the planes to enable a good strong solder joint with little chance of snapping under load or if you hit something!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Short lengths of 3mm I/D brass tube were epoxied into the hull to act as bearers.
    A control arm was made from 1mm brass sheet, with a 3mm hole at one end for soldering to the rod, and a 1mm hole at the other for connecting the operating Bowden cable using a clevis, aircraft style๐Ÿ˜‰
    With this type of wooden sandwich hull construction it is virtually impossible to do this for the stern planes, so only the bow planes are controllable. The construction of the stern planes is the same though. They are simply clamped in a neutral position by a screw.
    Maybe sometime I'll try milling out some more wood to try to fit a planes control arm at the stern. I'm not hopeful though so it's not on my priority list๐Ÿ˜‰

    Same principles were used to make, fit and control the rudder. Which incidentally was completely rebuilt with skeg, lower bearing and guard after finding a book at the Deutsches Museum here in Munich showing how it should be! Krick had severely oversimplified.
    The book also showed me the shape of the hydroplane guards, which Krick had simple left out along with the net saw and other hull details. Correcting these omissions and the hull shape itself, Krick shape was too fat and round, took longer than the basic construction๐Ÿค”
    Hope the attached pics make this understandable.
    Happy glug glug glugging๐Ÿ˜Š
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    rod
    saw
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Thanks Doug. Lots for me to ponder over.
    Going back to the solenoid valve, I am learning that it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to find one that can flow in both directions.๐Ÿค”
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    If you look at Bob Martin's web site (the nautilus drydocks) they use solenoid valves on there submarine systems.
    Or maybe send him an email explaining your problem and he might have a solution.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lightening the hull
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    We think alike Martin. I was going to write to Bob. You nudged me in to doing it.
    Thanks.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    Well, I have finally taken delivery of all of the parts for testing my ballast idea. I used Martin`s idea for operating the reversing action of the pump which will eventually be operated by a small servo. This uses two micro switches wired such that the pump will operate in opposite directions dependent on which switch was activated. I have included a picture of his wiring arrangement. If you press one switch, the cylinder is filled. Press the other, and it pumps the water out. I have a solenoid valve to shut the water supply pipe down as soon as the pump is switched off. The problem I have though is how to wire up this valve so that each microswitch operation opens it. If I wire the solenoid up using the common on both switches it is in short circuit. I need the positive of the valve always to be positive. With this switch arrangement, the common terminal alternates between positive and negative. How do I wire it Doug!! The water leaks out through the pump without it.
    Putting this problem aside though, the system worked perfectly. The pump managed to fill the tube about 60% before labouring. I think this will be more than enough to submerge the Submarine. What do you think Martin?
    Hopefully one of you electronics guys can give me a simple solution to my solenoid valve problem. Next job is to make the assembly much smaller.
    I have done a small video of the test which I hope to upload.
    Gato Ballast Tank Trial
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    30
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Peter,
    I am assuming that you will be using the small servos if so your tube will be lighter than mine to start off with.
    My ballast tank has an internal dissension of 120 mm in length I think that yours is larger so will have more weight of water.

    Re: valve
    The only way I know of at the moment is if you have a third micro switch attached to the same cam with just enough cut out so that in the middle position the valve will be open and ether side will activate the valve.
    Run negative wire directly to the valve and positive to the switch common then from the switch to the valve.
    I hope that makes sense.
    Doug would explain this better than me or he will know a better way.

    Nice job well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    View All
    Two more ways to control the valve.

    If the valve is the same voltage as the pump, then a bridge rectifier as shown in the diagram on the left will keep the polarity of the supply to the valve constant.

    As an alternative, especially if you had a valve of different voltage, then a relay wired as shown in the diagram on the right will also work.

    relay
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Thanks Martin and Graham.
    A super mechanical idea Martin, That would work well.
    I thought some arrangement of diodes would do the job Graham but never thought of a bridge rectifier. As both pump and solenoid work on 12 volts and that I have a bridge rectifier, I will try that first.
    Thanks to you both as they are both great ideas.๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Excellent Graham,
    I like the diode bridge rectifier idea.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I am continuing to have a problem with this set up. Almost. I have substituted the micro switches for a 60A speed controller. I connected up the solenoid valve and it only opens on the filling cycle. It will not activate when trying to empty it by using reverse. I then fitted a bridge rectifier in parallel between the pump and the power supply. Again it works in forward but not reverse. I tried the valve on its own and it worked perfectly through the bridge rectifier with whichever polarity I had it connected to. I cannot figure out why it will not activate in reverse. While writing this I think I have just thought why it won`t work in reverse. If I am not mistaken, the Hobbyking 860 dual halves the output in reverse. Probably not enough power to activate the solenoid valve. Can anybody think of a simple way around this. I could get a speed controller that does not reduce power in reverse but I would like to try to get around it another way.
    Thanks.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I think that the three switch method I suggested earlier is the simplest way.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I like your switch idea but I would like to control the flow rate of the pump. I can fill the cylinder to 80% in about 40 seconds. I would like to make this variable. Hence the speed controller.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    If I am not mistaken the real submarine would take between 30-60 seconds to get decks awash, so for the scale of your model 40 seconds would be about right.
    At speed with plains set it might reduce the dive time a bit making it quicker to submerge.
    So really you should not need to control the flow rate.

    Just had another thought.
    If that took 40 seconds to fill the tank at full speed then you will require a second pump connected.

    By connecting the two pumps to a two stage switch setup you could start filling with one pump then to fill quicker the second pump will kick in.
    The same for emptying.

    Martin555.

    decks
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Don`t forget, it probably won`t take any where near 80% fill to submerge some way down under the water.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    I am sorry but I am struggling to get my head around this.

    Can you explain to me why you want to adjust the flow speed of the pump.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    So that I have full control of the dive. I like to vary the time it takes to submerge. Very realistic.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,

    You can do that just by using the pumps on/off switch.
    To make it dive or surface slower switch the pump on and off in stages.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Absolutely Martin๐Ÿ‘
    Also the solenoid will not much like the pulsed voltage from an ESC.
    Especially if the 'On Time' is reduced when the ESC is in 'Reverse', as Pete suspects.
    To operate they depend on a steady DC voltage to maintain a constant magnetic field.
    After all, a solenoid is nothing more than an electromagnet with one part moveable!
    Apply an AC or pulsed voltage and it will try to chunter back and forth at the frequency of the AC voltage or the Pulse Repetition Rate ๐Ÿค”
    Go for the microswitches and a relay Pete๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I have been advised to stop with this method of a ballast tank. A veteran at this subject has advised that I am making a potential bomb which could injure somebody if it decided to go. He said that a simple fracture around my pipe connections could send parts flying causing potential injury. Now that it has been pointed out I see what he means. Back to the drawing board and a bladder system I think.๐Ÿค”
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    whereas I find that perhaps a little exaggerated if the materials used are robust enough, and I don't really think the pressures generated will be that great.
    However, I have to admit that I found the whole thing a little suspect, from the functionality point of view, right from the get go. So I kept out of the constructional side to see where it went๐Ÿ˜‰ I have a piston tank system for my Akula.
    Does this mean I can cancel my pump / solenoid control experiments? ๐Ÿค”
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    BTW; If you put a bladder in the same construction it won't make a ha'p'orth of difference to the internal pressures generated!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Hi Doug.
    I was thinking exactly as you. The pressure vessel I have made is of 4mm section at 52mm i.d. I have a sealed bolted rod holding the caps is place. The caps are 24mm thick Nylon 6. The pipe connector is M5 with a 2.2mm hole. Not much pressure area here. I think I might continue but taking extra care.
    I did further tests yesterday and found that the solenoid valve works perfectly when not connected to the pump and under pressure in both directions. The problem is the valve. Do you think I need a more powerful one or do you think the valve only works in one flow direction. For some reason the instructions show a direction of flow but as the valve only blocks the through hole, I cannot see why.
    The reason I was trying to avoid the piston system was to avoid the out of balance nose or tail first dive.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Nylon 6
    M5
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Mornin' Peter,
    Can you post / mail me the valve instructions please.
    Hopefully there is a sectional diagram included.

    "The reason I was trying to avoid the piston system was to avoid the out of balance nose or tail first dive."
    If the boat is properly trimmed at the surface in the first place with the tank correctly positioned there is no reason why it should dive tail first!
    Real subs don't usually static dive (or surface) anyway. Always underway with a few degrees down / up plane to assist.
    Trick when diving is to switch to level planes (a little UP plane at the stern) at the right time to level off at the required depth! There are some neat auto trim / depth holding modules around to help with that๐Ÿ˜‰
    (Another reason for going digital servos!)
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    boat
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Although I like your idea for your WTC ballast I think in my own personal opinion is that there is no need to over complicate the system.
    Making a simple bladder system is tricky enough.
    If the Gato that you are making was much bigger then yes a better system would be ideal.
    Maybe it's me but I think you should keep it as simple as possible.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Sorry Martin. Keeping things simple does not compute. I am afraid my brain will not allow. I want to but my brain and hands do something else. I must have a strange genetic flaw. I must find a way around this. I know what you mean and agree, but those gremlins will win in the end.๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    "I want to but my brain and hands do something else."
    I know exactly what you mean, I suffer with that quite a bit too.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    I reckon we three must be cousins! ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Doug,
    I think I have a solution to the valve problem. It depends on your answer to this question. Am I right in saying that if a solenoid does not throw and the power is still applied, no damage is done as it is only an electro magnet.
    Thanks.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Theoretically it might be possible to burn out the coil, but usually only if excessive voltage applied.
    BTW: I looked again at your tank test and I think we've all been making a fundamental error!
    Namely ignoring the test conditions!
    More tomorrow, I'm bushed so
    G'night, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    What did we miss Doug.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I have done further tests on the system. Everything is working well once. Then it all goes wrong. The pump will not prime to refill. I am sure that the solenoid valve is not up to the task. It is being pushed open when the pressure is direct onto the piston and jams when the pressure is adjacent. I need a much stronger solenoid and one which blocks across the flow. I will have to see what I can find. Still interested in our fundamental test error though Doug.๐Ÿค”

    piston
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete,
    Where as I tend to agree that you need a solenoid with more shove, and above all stronger return springs, I don't think that your test set up is properly simulating the operating conditions.
    With your test set up there will never be more than ambient air pressure on the input side of the valve.
    Whereas under operating conditions in the wet stuff the pressure on the input will rise as the boat goes deeper. This will help counteract the back pressure from the tank.
    Also I don't think you will need to fill the tank so full and thus create such back pressure.
    A truer test would be an immersion test with some weight hung on the tank to simulate the projected all up weight of the sub. In this respect Martin's test in Big Blue was much closer to reality.
    Once properly trimmed on the surface 'any' additional weight will start sending the boat down.
    I'd be surprised if you need more than about +10% to submerge.
    Don't know the trimmed displacement of the boat or the capacity of your tank so can't be more precise.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS I also think you'd be better off spending few bob more on a decent brass valve instead of cheap plastic. False economy, saving in the wrong place Pete!!๐Ÿ˜‰

    boat
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    I agree Doug. Problem is that I cannot, so far, find a valve that is not too large and have relatively small connections. (tube connectors)๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I agree with Doug regarding testing.
    I think that by the time your WTC is complete it will be heavier than mine,
    Therefore you would need less water ballast.
    My WTC weighs 4 3/4 Lbs.( no extra weight added)

    When I placed my WTC in Big Blue it floated and the water level Was just above the centre.
    I attached some lead underneath just to level it up.
    Then pumped in about 3/4 of a cup of water she then submerged to the bottom.
    When I first placed the WTC in slowly it look as if it was going to sink, so I was quite happy when it stayed afloat.
    I don't know if this helps.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete,
    Thanks for your PM. I'll get back to you on that.
    Some thoughts! (Doh my 'ead 'urts๐Ÿค•)
    The Solenoid Valve. Suspect number 1!
    1 Tested a few of my solenoids and electro magnets from a batch picked up for a song at a local flea market.
    (Felt a bit of a twit doin' a song and dance routine in the middle of the market๐Ÿค”, but it worked๐Ÿ˜)
    Sooo, the solenoid doesn't care about the polarity of the supply volts, as was already beginning to dawn on me. As soon as the current flows in the coil (either way) the magnetic field is there and drags the core in on mine.
    2 I note that your valve has input and output at right angles Pete.Which end is the tank connected to? If, as I suspect, it is connected to the side tube it may be that the back pressure from the tank is jamming the valve against the opposite side.
    That, combined with probable reduced voltage from the ESC in reverse (Suspect number 2!) AND the 1.4V drop of the bridge rectifier (2x0.7V of the diodes, Suspect number 3) means the solenoid coil is not getting enough current to create a strong enough field to overcome the friction of the side pressure.

    Solution?
    1 Pt 1 tells us we can dispense with the rectifier.
    2 Then connect the tank to the pipe which is in line with the solenoid, thus eliminating the side pressure on the valve plunger. If back pressure from the tank then causes the valve to open / weep then the valve return springs are not man enough for the job. ๐Ÿ˜ญ As mentioned above, it could also be that you pumped in more water than you actually need, thus creating unnecessarily high pressure in the tank. That's what I meant about unrealistic test conditions.
    You might be chasing a Ghost Pete ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    3 Check ESC programming possibilities to see if the reverse voltage can be increased, to 100% if possible.
    4 Most transmitters these days have a 'servo travel' function, up to 150% independently at both ends. Maybe (if available on your TX Pete) that could be used to increase the reverse voltage when applied to the ESC channel?

    If nun o that woiks then, as Grandad (a master carpenter and cabinet maker) liked to say-
    "If all else fails .... use bloody great nails!" ๐Ÿ˜ And Change valve!

    I'll PM or mail you on the two valve version Pete.
    G'night all, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค

    transmitters
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gato Ballast Tank Test
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    Thanks Doug.
    Following several tests I have carried out, the valves are strong enough for the job but only if the flow direction is correct. I did consider that the pressure was causing the problem but discounted this when I found that I can fill in stages and the valve closes each time. It will not, however, open when the pump is reversed. It does energise and throw the valve when the circuit is activated with no water present.
    My latest plan is to use the forward and reverse functions of the pump with each circuit protected with a one way valve and a separate solenoid valve for each direction. To make this work, I will have to ensure that the input valve only works in forward and the output valve in reverse only. To do this I will need a small circuit to split the load. I have most common components here but no brain for designing the required circuit. I will enjoy building it though.
    With the valve plumbed the right way, I filled the tank in stages to 80% full and held it for 1 1/2 hours, mainly as I could not pump it out. I had to remove the input pipe to empty. It was holding a decent pressure. I will not fill it this much again for safety and I will make a simple safety valve.
    I got my 4 year old grand child to draw a scheme of my latest plan with the wires for the valves waiting for a circuit. I will ask him to improve his drawings for any future attempts.๐Ÿ˜
    For reference, the flow does go in the side connection.
    I just checked your comment on polarity. You are right, they work either way around. Ooooooppppssss!!!
    Oh, nearly forgot; I have been advised that if I use crawler mode on the ESC, the output voltage is the same in both directions.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ“ Stern Section
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    The prop shafts and propellers arrived which now gives me a lot of things I can do to forward the build. I decided that the best way forwards was to complete the rear section, which includes the stern planes and the rudder and their operating system. The hardest part here was to mark out the cuts ion the hull halves accurately. I then used a Dremel to remove the excess material and loosely fit the shafts. As the tubes are not long enough to reach the rear bearings and skegs, I have had to turn, drill and fit some phosphor bronze bushes to act as rear shaft bearings. I hope that vibration when turning does not pull the parts off of the main hull. After this, I fitted the stern plane and rudder to check for function. There was a little resistance so I removed more material from both halves until free movement was achieved. I then turned my attention to the actuating mechanisms which would be connected to the servo rods. I had an old servo arm so I drilled part way through to a flat bottom, turned a wheel collet down and press fitted it in. The picture shows the completed arm. I will remove the excess arms when fitting them. This controls the rudder. For the stern plane, I heated up a rod of 2mm steel and flattened it to about 3mm wide. I then drilled a hole in the end to fit an aeroplane elevator/flaps connector as pictured. The next thing I will do is to assemble all of the parts and glue the two halves together. This is a job for next week. I want to do a ballast tank test this weekend.

    rod
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stern Section
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work Peter, keep it up.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stern Section
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "As the tubes are not long enough to reach the rear bearings and skegs, "
    They are not supposed to be Peter!
    The stuffing tube box stops at the hull exit, so what you are doing is correct to the originals๐Ÿ‘
    Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    tube box
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ The ballast unit prototype.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    Just a small update today.
    I have just completed the test ballast unit. The end caps are held in with fabricated bolts so I do not expect problems here. I do, however, expect problems with pipes blowing off due to the pressure I am going to create in the tube when water is pumped in. I will order some clips to try to solve this potential problem. I expect them to arrive during next week. Tests will begin next weekend. Just enough time to purchase water proofs and an umbrella.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The ballast unit prototype.
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ WTC construction.
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    I have started work on the Water Tight Compartment this weekend. I have started by turning the end caps for the internal ballast tank and then made two end caps for the 70mm diameter by 2mm wall section main WTC tube. The internal ballast tube is 60mm diameter with a 4mm wall section in case I want to pressurise it. I have yet to determine the exact ballast system I will use. I am trying to cover all bases so that I can make this final decision later.
    I have now assembled the ballast unit and all looks good. I have made a test tube about 80mm long to test the main WTC tube and caps. I had a little trouble keeping the o rings in place as the thinner wall tube has distorted slightly and is oval. I filed a chamfer at each end of the tube to help the rings squeeze nicely. This improved the situation and all was looking good,
    Earlier today I tied the test WTS to a brick with both end caps in place to check for leaks. I then lowered it to the bottom of a water butt and filled it with water. The unit was left there for 90 minutes. On removal I was pleased to see that there were no leaks. The depth was around 50cm.
    I have now decided to ballast the submarine in one of two ways. The first is to have a reversible water pump and a motorised valve. The pump would both fill and empty the tank with the valve opening and closing the entry pipe. The air inside the chamber would be pressurised so my concern would be the capability of the pump to have enough power to overcome the back pressure created by the air compression. The second possibility would be to have the pump fill a bladder inside of the ballast tube. This would mean that the inner tube need not be water or air tight so the air would not be compressed in the same way so the pump would not need to be so powerful.
    The pictures show the production of the end caps and the assembled unit. The test tank is also shown. The ballast tube with the end caps fitted inside the WTC tube is also pictured.
    The prop shafts have been delayed by 8 weeks in Hong Kong even though they said they had sent them to me on 12th June. Royal Mail informed me that they were finally sent on 23rd August. I can continue with the main model build on their arrival. This is important so that I can establish exactly how much room I have for the WTC.

    tube
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC construction.
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    You have done an excellent job on your WTC so far, well done.
    I wish I had the equipment and materials to do the same.

    Like you I had to do a lot of forward planning before making my WTC.

    Having a water tight tube inside a water tight tube is a good idea as it reduces the risk of leaks. But have you enough room between the inner and outer tube to pass wiring through ?
    I am assuming that the forward and aft bow planes will have separate servos operating via a Y connector.
    Or are they being operated separately.
    How are you going to hold the inner tube in place.?
    The centre section on my WTC is a separate tank with a through tube to enable my wiring to pass through (you have probably seen my thread on here)
    I think I also mentioned that you will not need to pump in much water to get the Gato to submerge.
    And after experimenting I decided to fit a party balloon to also prevent leeks around the wiring through tube.
    I ended up venting the air as I had pressure problems.

    Martin555.

    tube
    party balloon
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC construction.
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    I have a 3mm gap all around the tube. I have not thought as far as the connection between the forward and rear planes yet. I will stumble over that one later.
    I am still considering having a tube through the centre or near the top for wiring. I will see how it pans out.
    (Wish this spell checker used proper English and not US English).
    The inner tube is a nice slide fit inside the WTC. My plan is to get the servo, battery and motor frames to hold it in place. The length is only a guess at this stage and if only a small amount of water is needed to submerge the submarine, then I will probably shorten it.
    I have used 4mm wall section tube for the ballast tank and I am going to tie rod the caps in place using brass bolts with SS threaded rod between. I will modify the bolts with M4 internal threads and o rings under the heads. Should work a treat....I hope.๐Ÿ˜Š

    tube
    motor frames
    rod
    treat
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: WTC construction.
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    That all sounds great and I hope it all works out.
    It will be the simplest of things that catches you out.
    Like the wires will pass through but the connector on the end won't.
    The radius of the tube prevents you from fitting the bits where You wanted to fit them.
    I spent more time working out everything before actually making it, and I thought I had it all sorted out, but when it actually came time to make it that is when the problems started.
    These are complex in there construction so I tried to keep it as simple as I possibly could.
    Good luck,
    Looking forward to your future posts.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    Show 3 More Posts


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info