Excellent👍 Go go go Rob😀
Maybe we could get Colin & Caroline to cut/engrave us a batch of wall plaques on their Cricut thingamajig? 😁
(When they can get around tuit!🤣)
😎

Hi Doug.
Re: 'A Round Tuit' 👍😂
I might just get one of those.......quite fitting for me..🤔
A wall plaque would be even better...
Rob.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/203133593992?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203133593992&targetid=938641681342&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045960&poi=&campaignid=10195651178&mkgroupid=107296207892&rlsatarget=pla-938641681342&abcId=1145987&merchantid=114931874&gclid=CjwKCAjw5p_8BRBUEiwAPpJO6wvOFgAD4Isp0Achc6wExREBcj8pgx7-bK5htfFvUw87wLtXCIhykxoCIywQAvD_BwE

🔗

Hi Ed.
On my Dusseldorf I have used a 1000:1 geared motor which gives around 15RPM. I have connected it and it looks quite good.
Bruce, is it your build log of Dusseldorf that ends four months ago. How are you getting on with it?
Peter.

Hi Ed,
I seem to remember you had purchased a 10RPM geared motor for your radar.

Maybe i am mistaken.

A modified S9 serve will work great.

Martin555.

Hi Bruce1946,

Thanks, for the recommendation!
Will definitely look in to it!

Cheers, Ed

G'night FLEET//

Cheers, Ed ADMIRAL//

Heres what I used for my radar on my Dusseldorf for a working radar I just added a switch to it and didnt use a servo and got a nice even 10 RPM's with a 6 volt geared motor. works great https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-6V-DC-10RPM-long-Shaft-thread-... you can get them with any shaft length.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-6V-DC-10RPM-long-Shaft-thread-Torque-Gear-Box-Motor-New/331084873520?hash=item4d16323f30:g:cT0AAOSwhQRbRXdQ

🔗

Welcome to the club Ed 🤔
Here's another Round Tuit, just in case😁
All the best to you and Jenny, and G'night, Doug 😴💤💤

Hi Doug,

Thanks, Will get to it soon!

Of course you realize I'm a procrastinator!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Ed,
Here is your round tuit!
So no excuse now 😁😂
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Ed,

Soldering hand rails can be challenging, but as you say take your time and do a bit at a time then i am sure they will look great.

I am sure you will get plenty of help from the members of this site.

Martin555.

Hi Ken,

Yes, I've been really thinking about.
How to approach this!

Thanks for the recommendation!

I had thought of gluing the rails!
But, I know they won't last like that!

I just have to take my time with this step!

And get plenty of help from the fine folks of this great website!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Ed, if you make a dummy rail with the holes for the rail posts, you can use that to solder your rails on without damaging your boat
Ken

I have seen it (Joburgs MEKO Edit😎) in Action, absolutely brilliant😊😊

Doug,
I must admit the rescuer did not receive the thank you he was expecting LOL!!

Martin555.

Oh Lordy Lordy🤔
Cure worse than the ailment!😭
What's the salvage maxim? 'No cure no pay'!
😎

Hi Doug,
Re :- Fire a grappling hook.

Quite some years ago I remember one day at a lake a model boat stopped working and another member had built a Whaler complete with working Harpoon.

And yes you guessed it he fired the Harpoon straight through his boat.LOL!!

Martin555.

"I remember spending weeks on a system to move a Helicopter out of a hanger on to the flight deck then to spin the rotors."
Our very own joburg sailor is the expert for that Martin.👍
He did just that a while ago on the flight deck of his superb MEKO 200 frigate of the SA navy.
He posted vids of it in action.
Cheers, Doug 😎

"I have seen on utube a model Tug letting out a line from it winch as it slowly moved around another model and somehow catching the end and pulling the stricken model back to the bank."
Now that I'd like to see Martin👍
Wonder if he uses some sort of sea anchor arrangement to create the drag?
Then catch the props or rudder?
Or does he somehow fire the line aboard?
Intriguing!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Dear Nerys,
No one 'butts' in here!😉
We just contribute to the discussion!
"the vessel to be towed, invariably bigger, would throw a heaving line down to the tug crew,"
Exactly Nerys, and there's the rub🤔
To do that with models we'd need to have a line handling crew on each boat on the lake!
Made up of a few of General/Admiral Jumbo's sailors perhaps?😁
That was the snag with my crane on the stern of my destroyer, always much lower than the bows of anything else on the lake. I even considered trying a spring and ratchet mechanism to fire a grappling iron onto the stricken vessel.
Lead to snag # 2: getting the winch to let the 'hawser' run out freely.
A while back someone posted an excellent anchor winch design which could do that!
Cheers, Doug😎

Ed,
I like the idea of getting things to work such as winch, radar and many other things even if you never really use them.
I think it is the challenge of it.

I remember spending weeks on a system to move a Helicopter out of a hanger on to the flight deck then to spin the rotors.

It worked once or twice then developed a few little problems and i never used it much after that.

Martin555.

Hi Doug,

I have seen on utube a model Tug letting out a line from it winch as it slowly moved around another model and somehow catching the end and pulling the stricken model back to the bank.

Later i will see if i can find it again and post the link.

Martin555.

I'll have to get back to you FLEET//

Cheers, Ed

Perhaps I shouldn't butt in here, but in my experience the vessel to be towed, invariably bigger, would throw a heaving line down to the tug crew, rather than the other way round.

Cheers, Nerys

Hi Ed,
I know you have experience of working on real tugs👍
But there someone heaves the lighter lead line to or from the vessel to be towed and the tug crew then bend on the heavy towing line. The guys at the other end haul in and secure the tow line and away they go.
How ya gonna get the line from your tug to the object to tow?
That's where my great plan fell in the wet stuff☹️
I also wanted to use the winch underway, to rescue models in distress.
Snag was; How to get the line aboard the distressed model in the first place.
Looking forward to your solution, cos I wanna use it then!😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug,

Well, I plan on using the winch underway!

And use the drag as the force to unreel the winch!

And using said drag, use it also to pull in the object being towed!

The same way they do on a real tug!

I do have experience with this and know it will work!

Will have to make a video to prove it works!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Ed,
"I'd like to have a powered winch on the Smit!"
There are a few excellent ideas for doing this on the site.
Try searching the forum. But what do want to do with it?
My experiment some decades ago with an under deck winch on my destroyer, to operate the paravane crane on the stern as a rescue winch, was not too successful☹️
Winching IN was fine. But to run the winch OUT I found I needed something like the weight of a can of beans to pull the cable out☹️
The winch has been in my bits box ever since!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug,

No problems!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Pete,

Thinyverse is the place to go!

I've gotten some great ideas from there!

Cheers, Ed

Had a chat with the guy I bought it off at the lake this morning, and he says 'as long as you don't open the sealed plastic, it should last another year', should think it will be used before that🤞

Cheers, Pete

Yes, that's how I read it first, the realised it can't be 19th Nov 2020, so re-read and in reverse it becomes,
6th Dec 2019 (061219) and 20th Nov 2019 (201119)
think that's about right.😊

Cheers, Pete

Well, At lease you guys have a date code!
The stuff I have gotten didn't have a date code!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Doug,

You should check the PLA.
You have on hand!
As the old it gets the brittle it becomes!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Pete,

All of the one's I've gotten.
Don't have any dates on them!
So, you are very lucky in the respect!

At least you know how old they are!

My original reel of white PLA.
Must be really old because.
All you have to do is unreel about a meter length.
And wait over night!

And when your come to see it.
You'll see a bunch of cracks......

Cheers, Ed

Could be year, month, day, making them 2019,dec,06 and 2019,nov,20.

Bill

That's how I read them Martin!👍😉

Thanks for the 'Heads Up' Ed.
I must check the stuff still lurking in my printer kit.😮
😎

Hi Pete.
I must be reading this wrong.
'191206' Is this 19th December 2006.
'191120 Is this 11th November 2020.

Martin555.

Totally agree with you Ed, but on looking further at the rolls of PLA, there is a date stamp on both, one reads '191206' and the other '191120' which my working out means these are nearly one year old!
they are both sealed in plastic, then boxed, they look OK but will see when I start using them for printing.😊

Cheers, Pete

Hi Pete,

Thingyverse is a good place to start!

There's a wide selection to choice from!

I think you'll be alright!
The PLA you have doesn't sound too old!

My PLA which is from Creality.
Came out brittle but it's ok!

I purchase another one from a different brand.
And it came out ok!

Live and learn!

These PLA's should come with a date stamped on them!

It would be so helpful!

Cheer, Ed

I think the PLA is less than 3 months old, so I hope I will not experience brittleness, many thanks for the offer of help Ed, may use it when I get everything sorted, and have a look at 'Thingyverse' for ideas to print.😊

Cheers, Pete

Take your time as your right we are closer to winter than I would like to think.So lets not think of that.
Rick

Hi Pete,

Yah, I thought it's about time.
I get back to the Smit build! LOL!

Hey, I'm glad you have gone ahead and purchase a 3D Printer!

They're a lot of fun! But be warned you need a lot of patients!

Yes, I'm about to start using my 3D Printer again!

I was battling a cold, But am now over it!

About the PLA if it's been sitting around for a while.
Or getting old it will be brittle!
It may even snap on you as your printing!

My advice find out when the person bought the PLA!

Old PLA gets brittle and brakes very easily!

Oh, Welcome to the World of 3D Printing!

It's quite a wonderful thing to see an object get printed!

Pete,

Don't forget to download Ultimaker Cura 4.7!
That's the program you'll use to slice your objects!

If you need any help PM me!

Cheers, Ed

Glad to hear that you will be finishing the Smit Ed,
how are you doing with your Ender 3? finally weakened and bought myself one from a friend at the club, he has hardly used it (bored I think) but it came with three rolls of PLA and a good price paid, so you must keep up your blog on 3D printing, so I can follow you and learn.😊

Cheers, Pete

Try soldering on scrap pieces Ed. If soldering small wire, I would recommend an 18 or 25 watt iron. If larger, say 3mm, then 40 to 60 watts is better. Clean the parts to be soldered well with abrasive paper. Use a good quality flux and lightly tin both parts if practical. Place iron on the joint to give sufficient heat and add the solder very carefully as it is easy to add too much. Try to ensure the whole joint area is hot or the solder will not flow properly. It really is down to practice, but I agree, it is fun to do. Don`t forget to clean and flux the iron tip as well as the joint and the solder.

I tried soldering photo etched parts recently. Of course, I was immediately disadvantaged as it was part of a Dean's kit.
I ended up using super glue. Some sticky fingers but much better than my soldering attempts.
I've used super glue on several occasions and have always been successful.
Worth a try in the future Ed?

Steve

Soldering try it you'll like it LOL.
You will get the ladder right.
Rick

I'm sure after painting and set up they will look great.
Rick

"I don't think I could charge for them!" can't see why not Ed, I used to own a crafting shop, and sold rubber stamps and the like for making greetings cards, but it was OK for the customers to use said stamps for images and sell them, so I don't see that you have a problem, thingyverse is available world wide, so I don't envisage them knocking on your door for license fee's😊

Cheers, Pete

Well done Ed. They look really good.👍

Thanks Martin,

I try!

Cheers, Ed

They look great Ed.
Well done.

Martin555.

Hi Pete,

That's an excellent idea!
Not, sure I could sell them!
I printed them from a Thingyverse file!

I don't think I could charge for them!
But, I wouldn't mind making some money!!!!!

I'll even thro in the pallet! LOL!

Cheers, Ed

Excellent idea Pete👍
Put me down for four at 1/35 please😊
😎

Just don't forget to print the marimba band though Ed
"Shrimp boats (and Ed's tug😉) are a coming, there's dancing tonight"😁
😎

They are Magic Ed, you should have a word with Stephen, and get some made to buy in the shop, especially if you can make them to any scale.👍👍👍


Cheers, Pete

Hi Doug,

That's right!
Now, all I have to do is bring out a Stogie for Cuba! LOL!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Steve,

They came out better than what I thought they would!👍

Cheers, Ed

BRAVO ZULU Ed👍
Great! Now you can have marimba music on board😀
Break out the Havana rum chaps, Splice the Mainbrace😋
😎

What can I say Ed. Makes up for all the breaking filament and the horrible smells.
Very well done!

Steve

This will prove to be a dangerous move. I know this as I now have four models in progress. I WILL finish one soon. Maybe.

Just a few more day to go!
While I learn this new 3D printing thing!

I have thought of working on the Smit.
But, It's not time yet!

That's why I say just a few more days to go, LOL!

Hi Marky,

It's like a bowl of Spaghetti's! LOL!

Cheers, Ed

PS. Eventually I'll get to it!

Its all these White wires Ed .
Cheers Marky👍

Hi Ed,
You will probably find doing something different for a while will give you renewed energy.

Martin555.

Hi G6SWJ:
Is this what you meant when you talked about starting with Arduino?
The post is very interesting ... I download it

Hi Jonathon,

Thanks, But I sent them back!
To where I had purchased them from!
As, Try as I could!
Couldn't get them to work!
I even had some of the knowledgeable guys on here.
Help me with the setup!

But, nothing worked at all!
So, I sent them back!
And was given a full refund!

I was toying around with the idea of using an Arduino!
But, I've spent enough time on the Smit build!

I may not use it after all!

Maybe I'm over thinking.
What I want to achieve on the Smit build!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Ed,

Do you still have the Robbe encoder/decoder that failed to work?

I remember I got additional grey hairs when I played with them a few years back - a basic fundamental of how they work is "odd" I seem to remember and can leave you with the impression they don't work!!

If you still have them I'll back track and find my workings and post it here.

You can still buy encoders/decoders from a company called Wetronic

https://wetronic.nl/multiswitches

Learning Arduino from scratch to be able to use in your model boats is a fun subject. However there is unlikely to be much that you want to do that others have not done before and published their code on the net.

A good way to learn is to get a grip of the basics:
1. How to use the IDE (the software where you write code - a simple text editor environment)
2. How to upload code to the Arduino board

Rarely do I start with a blank canvas - you normally find a set of code that achieves close to what you want and then tweek around the edges.

For example if I want to use a GPS device - I "include" someone else's code in the form of a reusable library to catch the GPS data the GPS hardware spits out in the form of NEMA sentences, parse it to extract the values and then work with those values in my program.

The net result is I can access meaningful GPS values in my code without having to do any work to get them from the GPS hardware.

I have been programming for 40 odd years but if I was given the GPS hardware and needed to write my own code to achieve the same result as above I would struggle.

For example connecting the Arduino to a RC receiver is simple.

The code to achieve reading the channel values is simple in principle but tricky in coding terms.

But you don't need to worry about it as it's been done by others and refined to a slick solution(s). You simply include their chunk of code in your program and build on the channel values it outputs to do your stuff - switch things on/off etc

Have a look at this link - remember all you are interested in is the output from the code - "my radio control receiver channnel values"..

https://ryanboland.com/blog/reading-rc-receiver-values

The concept of hacking(building on) open source code / reusing code & prewritten code libraries to interface to hardware is what it's all about...

Regards
Jonathan

https://wetronic.nl/multiswitches

🔗

https://ryanboland.com/blog/reading-rc-receiver-values

🔗

Hi Pete,

Thanks, I'm going to have to use a lot of grey matter!
But, I'm sure I'll be able to achieve what I want!

Cheers, Ed

Thanks, SeamanCook

Anything is possible!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Jonathan,

Thanks for looking for the link!
I'm definitely interested!

I'm actually not sure yet.
Of what I'd like to control!
Lights for starters!

But, The sky is the limit!

Cheers, Ed

PS. Please try to find the Link?

I think taking your time will turn out well for you as making the model do what you want is your objective.
Rick

Thinking of learning Arduino Ed could be a big task, especially if your intention, is only to use it in the Smit, but if you intend to use it further, I'm sure Martin will help you with the task.😐

Cheers, Pete

I've tried and "bounced off" microcontrollers. I might try again...Arduino offers a lot of bolt on goodies - at a rapidly increasing price. But its a matter of time. As an example, assume I have 5 channels available, each of which controls one light or device. But some combinations may be unrealistic.
So I reckon that a state machine is an option. Have as many different lights and radars to turn as you wish. But then define say 16 combinations (states) that are realistic for you.
The parts exist to use 4 channels as a binary address. That's 8+4+2+1 and a zero, making 16. The Fifth channel, when clicked, memorises the count selected on the 4 channels..that defines one of the 16 states.
You can then also use the 4 channels again to control 4 items more, individually, provided you leave the select switch Ch5 alone.
And if you want to change anything you add or take away a wire.
In a way, you are programming without the programmer. My father loved to twiddle switches, and this sort of setup would have even kept him happy.

Hi Ed,

I can't find the link right now - some guys have been using Arduino in F14/F16 as the multi channel decoder - I am pretty cetain the encoder as well.

I will see if I can find the web links

What type of things do you want to achieve/control with Arduino in your model?

Regards
Jonathan

Hi Stephen,

I remember when you showed it to me!
Very good project!

I didn't know you used an Arduino!
To control your Christmas tree!

Very good, I hope to control the lights in my Smit!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Graham93,

Thanks,

That exactly what I'd like to do!
Control the running lights!

But, first I've got to learn it!
The Arduino that is!

Cheers, Ed

Not sure how to connect arduino boards to boats & controllers, but this was my last arduino project 😎 so if you get stuck with coding!...

Stephen

Musical Light Show Christmas Tree - Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy

▶️

Hi Ed,

I’ve never used Arduino, but I think it is a good choice if you are new to programming control systems. Once you get into it there are so many things you would be able to add to you Smit. I think you should go for it, but start with something easy, like controlling the lights.

Graham93

Sorry to hear you are under the weather Martin. Hope you feel better soon.😊

Spent nearly 40 years on the mines here in South Africa and have Silicosis only a slight touch. But smoking didn't help either!
Here's a possible useful link for the guys who like brass pulleys and turnbuckles. Proctor Aircraft they supply R/C models that take a lot of work (Some of them go back to Bleirot's Monoplane) So all sorts of stuff available. They used to have agents all over the world but they are good at what they do!

http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/index.htm

🔗

"Then, I'll need plenty of help!
Hope, you'll be available? "
You 'nose' where I'm at Ed 😉
😎

If you would prefer one meter lengths Ed, let me know the gauge, and I will see if Javis have the right one in stock, then check postage to USA.😐

Cheers, Pete

btw, I have some 2.55mm and some 1.70mm brass wire in my own stock if that is of any use to you, one mtr lengths.

Hi Pete,

Thanks, for the offer!
Some times I like the 1 meter length of brass wire!
It avoids having to solder every few inches!

I could use some for the Smit though!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Colin,

Thanks, The Smit came with a coil of brass!
But, really didn't like the Idea of using it!

But, I appreciate the advice!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Doug,

Yes, I am a professional procrastinator!
So, No haven't gotten to it yet!
Eventually I will!
Then, I'll need plenty of help!
Hope, you'll be available?

Cheers, Ed

It's a pity we are so far from each other Ed, I can get brass wire any gauge in meter lengths from Javis.😐

Cheers, Pete

Thanks, Martin!

But, I wanted a straight run from the Mast to the Funnels!

Cheers, Ed

Hi Ron,

No Pond time!

I didn't want to use that coiled up spool of brass!
I did have a feeling I could have straightened it out!
But, I want a straight run.
Of wire connected from the Mast to the Funnels!

Ed

"at least I'm not called the VICK Kid anymore."
Not until NOW Colin😁 On the other hand -
who would dare to address one of our illustrious Captains, on the Commodore Promotion Board short list, in such an irreverent manner? (Apart from me of course 😁)

To the subject in hand-
"I buy jewellers soft woven stainless steel wire, "
I agree Colin, I also find the Craft corner of many Garden Centres good sources of multi-strand stainless (used on my U25, seen in the attached pic with HMS Hotspur both 1/72) and various fine gauges of silver, brass and copper wires as used by florists as well as amateur jewellers.
On small spools but easy to straighten and stiffen as above.
And they're much cheaper than from specialist model and craft suppliers😊
Cheers, Doug 😎

Snap Martin, between 8 and 13 I only went for about 6 weeks each year. Spent 6 months each year in convalescent homes either in the charnwood forest or at the one at Mablethorpe in the sand dunes. I bet you can guess which I preferred.
I still get wheezy days, but have learnt to live with it, at least I'm not called the VICK Kid anymore.
Back to the subject in hand I buy jewelers soft woven stainless steel wire, it costs about £2.50 for 50 metre reels, I find its great for rigging for my boats.
Cheers Colin

Don't worry about it Doug,

I am sorry to hear the weed got you that way.

Here is a another thing i bet you did not know, i played Drums at a gig for the group "the real thing"

I had to give up playing due to the breathing problems as it dose take a bit of doing.

Martin555.

Very sorry to hear that Martin, had no idea (how could I?) 😔
With me it was the other way round; fit as a fiddle in school and college.
NOW the breathing problems have set in!
Self inflicted; 50 years of the weed☹️
Get well soon🤞👍
Doug 😎
PS Some years ago I actually had the, rare these days, pleasure of seeing and hearing Mark playing on a seldom reunion with the rest of Dire Straits at an open air concert in Munich.
He'd done his back in but still appeared and played up a storm propped up on a bar stool.
A real trouper😊

Doug,
Not exactly down the mines but i suffered with a lot of breathing problems, they say a cat has nine lives well i have had eight of mine.
So very little schooling was had.

The strange bit is i am fitter now than i have ever been.
Having said that i am not feeling that well at the moment but hopefully it will soon pass.

Martin555.

Just pullin' your anchor chain FLEET#2😁
Glad you liked the vid though.
Plenty more good stuff follows that vid, e.g.
Eric Clapton playing rhythm guitar to Mark's lead!!😮
Cheers, FLEET// 😎
PS 'Down the mines were you'? 🤔
But look where you are now👍😊

Hi Doug,
Hopefully i got it right this time.
I suppose it would of helped if i actually went to school when i was younger.

Mind you i liked the video.

Martin555.

"until the brass is strait"
Oh dear🤔
Martin is suffering from a surfeit of Mark Knopfler again!
What a Dire Strait to get into!!!😁
😎

Dire Straits - Sultans Of Swing

▶️

Hi Ed,
How did the LED tests go?
Which you wanted to do 'tomorrow 6 days ago'?
Or did the alligators eat the LEDs?😮
Funny! Thought you were in Connecticut not Florida😁

BTW to straighten out brass (or copper) wire from a coil -
I clamp one end in the vice, cut off the length I need plus some,
then hold the the free end in a large pair of pliers (or small Mole Grip) and give it a few sharp tugs. Then hold it under tension for about a minute.
If it breaks off at the vice end (Young's Modulus exceeded) it ain't gonna get any straighter😉
(If it doesn't break off .... Eat more spinach😂🤣 I hate the stuff so I'm weak as a 🐱 😁)
Slightly warming it with a small kitchen gas torch 🔥 helps but isn't usually necessary for fine stuff.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Ed,

If you find you are running out of the brass rod you can straighten the coil by wrapping one end around some pliers and standing on them and then wrap the other end around another pair of pliers and gently pull up until the brass is straight then cut of the ends.

Martin555.

Ron here...you had any pond time?

Good planning on not using the coils but buying lengths instead.

Hi Marky,

Isn't that the truth!
First thing I did was make sure.
They where different colors..........

Cheers, Ed

Thanks, Peter!
I will!

Cheers, Ed

At least there not all White 😁 enjoy .
Cheers Marky👍

Have a good day Ed.