Got around to cutting the parts today - photos not that good - camera seems to be loosing its edge. Getting a bit old I suppose.....Like its owner
Suspect the little 'un will be ok to float in the bath - don't thinks there's enough displacement despite being a tubby hull
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Quite fancy this down the line once other projects completed, shall follow with interest. One question if I may, what wood and thickness are you using and how did you transfer outlines to the wood, looks like a kit! 👍👍👍
posted the plan on lockdown challenge a while ago - plus the parts drawings
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To answer - yes we do have a laser (for commercial reasons which I am allowed to use by the better half for boats) - makes cutting out very much easier - but there is a lot of work drawing up the input - and trying to ensure errors on the original plan are corrected - There were two plans originally from a now defunct magazine - published many years ago. 14" one has a straight deck - the other 16" one has a curved deck (lengthwise - not talking about cross camber) . I would gladly pass on copies of what I have but would first like to ensure they are corrected properly . When designing or redrawing a plan usually make at least one prototype to catch any errors - scratching for components but will try to get on with the build tomorrow.
To answer - yes we do have a laser (for commercial reasons which I am allowed to use by the better half for boats) - makes cutting out very much easier - but there is a lot of work drawing up the input - and trying to ensure errors on the original plan are corrected - There were two plans originally from a now defunct magazine - published many years ago. 14" one has a straight deck - the other 16" one has a curved deck (lengthwise - not talking about cross camber) . I would gladly pass on copies of what I have but would first like to ensure they are corrected properly . When designing or redrawing a plan usually make at least one prototype to catch any errors - scratching for components but will try to get on with the build tomorrow.
Problem is good ones size, power & software wise are very expensive and unless one is very wealthy cost is simply not justified for hobby use only. There are small desktop ones made in Seattle in the US which are quite good but the biggest will be about A3 size cutting bed and quite low powered. The cheap Chinese ones are very dangerous - and very under powered - software is puerile - and would probably only cut balsa or (surprisingly ) ply up to 4mm. Not Perspex or any other hard materials without multiple cuts which lead to inaccuracy/burning.
Our current one is 900x600mm nominal but has a removeable panel front & rear so you can cut any length you want as long as its not wider than 845mm - 890 if its less than 12mm thick. There are larger ones available - but would take up most of the space in a large single garage - and all of it in the one we had in Bournemouth. Even my Midget had a hard time squeezing in
A few photos of progress so far - very slow as everything else seems to take priority - spent time for instance looking for a microswitch to get someones wheelchair going again .............
As you can see I had a helper - Willy the curious , the 1/2 outboard is a broken one (have the other parts) which will be altered to look like a small Mercury rather than an slightly oversized Evinrude Lark. Picked up two problems already with the lower deck cutouts being too large on the 10" version and the decks of both are far too short - so they will be re-cut today . Everything else seemed OK . For the 7" will be tryng a plastic tube for the shaft casing to save a little weight..............
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A few photos of progress so far - very slow as everything else seems to take priority - spent time for instance looking for a microswitch to get someones wheelchair going again .............
As you can see I had a helper - Willy the curious , the 1/2 outboard is a broken one (have the other parts) which will be altered to look like a small Mercury rather than an slightly oversized Evinrude Lark. Picked up two problems already with the lower deck cutouts being too large on the 10" version and the decks of both are far too short - so they will be re-cut today . Everything else seemed OK . For the 7" will be tryng a plastic tube for the shaft casing to save a little weight..............
Hi Graham - different size batteries are difficult to obtain here - there is one specialist battery shop in Cape Town that might be able to help - don't even know if they are open again yet - and in any event it would be almost impossible to get them delivered until lockdown eases a bit .
Will try 3x AAA as I have an old Hitec 27mhz miniature receiver that works on 3.6v and have to hope the Robbe 2amp ESC does too . Have a early Action Pico 68 ESC complete with motor but says 4.8v . Will have to check with Dave M before trying it. Thought about using a helicopter motor - not sure it would work - dont think the little lipo would last long . Will have to test & see with sons old broken one - but a bit ham fisted with electronics..............
Shame about the supply problems. I sourced my 2/3 AAA battery from Component Shop here in the UK as they are still open, and the postal service is still running, if a little slower than usual.
Another thought I had when building my micro tug was to use a voltage step up converter to allow the use of a smaller battery. This should allow the use of, for example, a 2 cell battery to step up the voltage to 4.8v and hence save weight. The one pictured has a minimum input voltage of only 2v and costs less than £2. Of course, 'you don't get owt for nowt' so doubling the output voltage using one of these will (more than) double the current drawn from the battery hence reducing the battery duration.
Decided to cut windows & frames - since cabin sides & decks were too short decided to redraw and recut those too. the stringers dont give the bend required at the bow so having to glue extra pieces in - in another life would redraw the keel and fit bow pieces Aerokits style and would draw & cut chine pieces in the same manner as Freedom Song/ Midwest kits do - (thank you the late Ed Stinson) - makes for a much easier build - after this many years and still learning.............
Also forgot you can bend balsa easily by crushing one side with your nails - so fitted the 7" chine stringers easily - but still not enough curvature - having to add more pieces to the stringers. Will post further photos once the hulls are ready for bottom planking.
Batteries on charge to test esc on 3.6v.
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Decided to cut windows & frames - since cabin sides & decks were too short decided to redraw and recut those too. the stringers dont give the bend required at the bow so having to glue extra pieces in - in another life would redraw the keel and fit bow pieces Aerokits style and would draw & cut chine pieces in the same manner as Freedom Song/ Midwest kits do - (thank you the late Ed Stinson) - makes for a much easier build - after this many years and still learning.............
Also forgot you can bend balsa easily by crushing one side with your nails - so fitted the 7" chine stringers easily - but still not enough curvature - having to add more pieces to the stringers. Will post further photos once the hulls are ready for bottom planking.
Batteries on charge to test esc on 3.6v.
Even using 2 x 3mm strips they did not bend easily - hot water soaking works but not really worth while time wise on these small models Ron . Going to plank in 2mm balsa after making ' card templates . Have to work out how to link the very small servo's used - the one for the 7" is minute to say the least
Sailboat idea is a good one too..........
