Most recent posts shown first (Show Oldest First) | (Print Booklet) |
💬 Re: Steam Power
12 hours ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Thanks Martin.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 12 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Steam Power
17 hours ago by Martin555 (
![]()
Looking good Rick.
Martin555. 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 16 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder and ser setvo setup
4 days ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Hi Martin With the limited space for the servo and arm I built the pivot arm with threaded rod to be able to connect the rudder through the transom. Looks a bit off as the arm was built from my parts box a one of if you will.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 23 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder and ser setvo setup
5 days ago by Martin555 (
![]()
Nice work Rick,
I like the use of the paintbrush shaft in the rudder. Looking at photo 6 the linkage looks a bit strange, maybe it is the camera angle. No it's just me just noticed the pivot point on the top linkage. Keep it up. Martin555. 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 25 Views
|
|
💬 Re: Rudder
10 days ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Thanks Gary I like the pictures especially the rudder.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 40 Views
2
|
💬 Re: Rudder
10 days ago by GaryLC (
![]()
The photographs are not in reverse order after all.
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 38 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder
10 days ago by GaryLC (
![]()
Hi Rick, liked the photographs and thought I would add a few of my own from my open launch Lady Ayla, (the one with the Caton Engine.) No 1, the rudder and the added-on portion as it did not steer too well. No 2, the gearing operated by the servo, driving a flexible drive shaft that operates the ship's wheel via pulleys and drive belt. (O ring.) No 3 the control consul showing the drive control lever in neutral, (middle position.) No 4, the drive rod from the engine control servo, with a linkage added for the driver control lever. I can explain in more detail if that does not make sense. The photos are in reverse order,as in 1 is 4.
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 38 Views
3
|
💬 Re: Mahogany
20 days ago by RNinMunich (
![]()
'Tell and Show' Rick 👍
😎 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 57 Views
2
|
💬 Re: Coaming and seats
20 days ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Thanks JB I wish spelling were as easy as me working on my boats.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 60 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Coming and seats
21 days ago by jbkiwi (
![]()
Coming along well Rick
JB 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 58 Views
3
|
💬 Re: Forgetting to check
24 days ago by Newby7 (
![]()
A smaller prop would not have worked to power the boat. Have shaved down the stern and now have a working prop.Reinforcing and filling in now.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 69 Views
2
|
💬 Re: Forgetting to check
24 days ago by AustinG (
![]()
would a smaler prop be any use.😀
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 64 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Forgetting to check
24 days ago by mturpin013 (
![]()
No one ever made anything without a mistake so sit back evaluate and think of the solution , I rather like Doug's idea of tunnel, you see a lot lifeboats with a tunnels
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 70 Views
3
|
💬 Re: Forgetting to check
27 days ago by RNinMunich (
![]()
"Only then did I think about the propeller that's where I missed the boat LOL"
Oops! 😭 Well Rick, How about filing / moulding a 'tunnel' in front of the prop and passing it off as 'an experimental hull'? 😉 Many great 'inventions' came about as the result of what was at first thought to be a 'cock up' 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 74 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Sealing inside
1 month ago by mturpin013 (
![]()
That's a good move waterproofing the internals is so important, its those areas that get covered up during the build that sometimes get forgotten and those are the bits that will come back to bite you in the future
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 78 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Planking done
1 month ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Hi Steve Thank you for the comment.The filler looks more than it is.Will not have a second planking will fiberglass the hull and seal inside to help keep water tight.
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 86 Views
2
|
💬 Re: Planking done
1 month ago by cormorant (
![]()
Hi Rick
I have been so engrossed in my own travails that I have only just spotted your blog. I must admit, your planking looks far better than mine and I am surprised you needed so much filler? Are you second planking like me or fibreglassing perhaps? Steve 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 85 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
1 month ago by Newby7 (
![]()
Thanks for the info Doug and Nerys .Will reread this post tomorrow and right down your how to .
Rick 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 92 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
1 month ago by RNinMunich (
![]()
BTW Rick,
I forgot the two metal bands holding the 3 planks (of the original) together. I'd cut 'em from 0.5mm brass strip. Drill the rivet / bolt holes before cutting into narrow strips. I learned that the hard way! 🤕 Rivets from brass wire? Have fun, 🤞 Cheers Doug 😎 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 91 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
1 month ago by RNinMunich (
![]()
Ah jus knowed you'd know Nerys 👍
😎😴💤 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 91 Views
1
|
💬 Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
1 month ago by Nerys (
![]()
Yes Doug, the correct terms for the rudder hanging bits are gudgeons and pintles. The gudgeon is the bit with the round hole in it (the female side) and the pintle has a rod that sticks into the gudgeon, thus allowing the rudder to swing easily.
Cheers, Nerys 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 94 Views
3
|
💬 Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
1 month ago by RNinMunich (
![]()
Hmm! See what you mean Rick. 😮
The rudder apparently of wood and is hung on 3 pins rather than a continuous stock. I think I would tackle it this way. I'd make it in two halves so that I could cut slots for the pins. Would be impossible to drill straight holes for the pins in a single piece rudder. I'd trace the rudder form onto 1/8" wood sheet. TWICE! Preferably not ply if you can find something else, otherwise the edge might look a bit odd. Even balsa sheet would do, can later be hardened using EzeKote diluted with about 10 to 15% water. Then two coats of pure EzeKote (or similar😉). When you have the two halves cut it is relatively easy to cut / mill the slots for pins. I used a Dremel type engraving tool and a round (ball) engraving bit to cut the slots. Make the pins from suitable brass or ally rod and glue the halves together with the pins in place. Take care cutting the slots so that they are all in a line to align with the hangers. On the hull you will need the three 'hangers'! (Nerys will know the correct technical name!😁) I would make the hangers from 3mm (or whatever suits your scale) brass or ally sheet with long tails that I could epoxy into the hull. Use a suitable size rod to keep 'em in line while the epoxy hardens! Line them all up so that the rudder just drops in and turns easily. Main thing, use the same metal for both pins and hangers, to prevent electrolytic corrosion when they get wet. I recently used this sort of technique to make a balsa rudder with 1mm shaft for a micro Springer tug, and to make the keel with a 2mm slot cut for the prop shaft toob. Drilling it was a no go! They don't make 2mm drill bits that long 😁 If a 1/4" rudder is too thick for scale you can always sand it down and shape it when the EzeKote has hardened, or before you apply the EzeKote, as you wish. Then score it to simulate the three planks it seems to have been made of. Should look nice all fettled up and varnished. Hope this helps. Cheers, Doug 😎 👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 91 Views
2
|