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    New Build
    by Newby7 ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ ( Commodore)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    13 Posts 36 Comments 0 Photos 73 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ Steam Power
    22 hours ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    With the servos set up and tested worked on the engine and condenser placement and installation. Built a base for the condenser and epoxied in place. The frame were trimmed down to let the engine base sit at the right level and angle to the prop shaft. Next the frames were trimmed for the boiler to sit lower in the boat. Boiler was lagged in place. All three engine condenser and boiler are set up for easy take out to clean and repair if needed. Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Steam Power
    12 hours ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Martin.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Steam Power
    17 hours ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looking good Rick.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Rudder and ser setvo setup
    10 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    The rudder bracket installed worked on servo position and building linkage from the rudder to servo. Test of servo rudder went well. Two mini servos set up one for forward and reverse the second for steam shut-off. Pictures show covers for electronics and servos.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder and ser setvo setup
    4 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Martin With the limited space for the servo and arm I built the pivot arm with threaded rod to be able to connect the rudder through the transom. Looks a bit off as the arm was built from my parts box a one of if you will.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder and ser setvo setup
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work Rick,
    I like the use of the paintbrush shaft in the rudder.

    Looking at photo 6 the linkage looks a bit strange, maybe it is the camera angle.

    No it's just me just noticed the pivot point on the top linkage.

    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Rudder
    17 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    The rudder bracket was made and clamped in place to test the movement of the rudder. The rudder moved side to side with ease .The brackets were brazed on to a mounting plate to make hanging the rudder easier. The servo for the rudder will be next.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder
    10 days ago by Hellen ( Recruit)
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    Nice
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder
    10 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Gary I like the pictures especially the rudder.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder
    10 days ago by GaryLC ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The photographs are not in reverse order after all.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder
    10 days ago by GaryLC ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Rick, liked the photographs and thought I would add a few of my own from my open launch Lady Ayla, (the one with the Caton Engine.) No 1, the rudder and the added-on portion as it did not steer too well. No 2, the gearing operated by the servo, driving a flexible drive shaft that operates the ship's wheel via pulleys and drive belt. (O ring.) No 3 the control consul showing the drive control lever in neutral, (middle position.) No 4, the drive rod from the engine control servo, with a linkage added for the driver control lever. I can explain in more detail if that does not make sense. The photos are in reverse order,as in 1 is 4.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Mahogany
    20 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    In my wood bins I found strips of 1/2 x 1/16 mahogany left over from the Dumas Cobra build to do the top deck. Had to cut in a few small pieces in spots to finish the job. After seeing the out come I'm wishing I had enough strips to do the hull.
    Cost and wishful thinking on my part .On to the next job.
    Rick
    Pictures to show the mahogany finished on cover and deck.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mahogany
    20 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    'Tell and Show' Rick ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Coaming and seats
    21 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    With the stern fixed the coaming was next . Wrapped a towel around a 1/2 "x 1/8" x 48"strip of plywood soaked in hot water slowly bending until ready to put in place . Seats were built in place to be able to remove and work on coupling. The back cover was built . The rub rail was put on. Mahogany will be next.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Coaming and seats
    20 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Thanks JB I wish spelling were as easy as me working on my boats.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Coming and seats
    21 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Coming along well Rick

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Forgetting to check
    27 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Boy did I mess up.The dimensions of the build looked good. I had the hole for the shaft in place while I was building the hull. Made sure the stuffing box and shaft were in line before and after planking.
    Did the same thing after fiberglass and epoxy. Only then did I think about the propeller that's where I missed the boat LOL .The prop would have been to small with the space and angle I had built.With that it was take wood file and trim down the stern to fit the prop.Will beef up the area from inside and refinish the area outside with fiberglass cloth.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forgetting to check
    24 days ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    A smaller prop would not have worked to power the boat. Have shaved down the stern and now have a working prop.Reinforcing and filling in now.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forgetting to check
    24 days ago by AustinG ( Able Seaman)
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    would a smaler prop be any use.๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forgetting to check
    24 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    No one ever made anything without a mistake so sit back evaluate and think of the solution , I rather like Doug's idea of tunnel, you see a lot lifeboats with a tunnels
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forgetting to check
    27 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "Only then did I think about the propeller that's where I missed the boat LOL"
    Oops! ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    Well Rick,
    How about filing / moulding a 'tunnel' in front of the prop and passing it off as 'an experimental hull'? ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Many great 'inventions' came about as the result of what was at first thought to be a 'cock up' ๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Sealing inside
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    In between filling and sanding set up two part finishing epoxy and painted on to the inside of the hull. A good coat went on and will need to set up. touch ups may be need for some areas .
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sealing inside
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    That's a good move waterproofing the internals is so important, its those areas that get covered up during the build that sometimes get forgotten and those are the bits that will come back to bite you in the future
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    ๐Ÿ“ Planking done
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    With the last plank done have been filling in spots and sanding the hull. Slow progress as this is my least favorite part of the build. In between filling and letting it cure I worked on the rudder assembly. The brackets were made for the rudder mount. Using brass tube the tiller bracket was built. Put the rudder on the stern to see how it fit.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking done
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Steve Thank you for the comment.The filler looks more than it is.Will not have a second planking will fiberglass the hull and seal inside to help keep water tight.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking done
    1 month ago by cormorant ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Rick
    I have been so engrossed in my own travails that I have only just spotted your blog. I must admit, your planking looks far better than mine and I am surprised you needed so much filler?
    Are you second planking like me or fibreglassing perhaps?
    Steve
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    ๐Ÿ“ Rudder
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    With help I started the rudder and tiller arm. The tiller was made from shaft of a paint brush.
    The rudder is 8 pieces (basswood 4 pcs 1/4x1/4)(3pcs basswood 1/4x1/2) 1 pc main shaft .All pieces were glued then drill and pined .Need shape and add brass stripe to finish.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ“ Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Started to plank the boat and while waiting for the glue to dry to be able to use clamps on next row.
    Looked at the rudder and I'm lost as I don't know how to build it to make it look as it is on the plan.
    Has anyone seen a design as this.If I could figure it out not sure of what material to use.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for the info Doug and Nerys .Will reread this post tomorrow and right down your how to .
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    BTW Rick,
    I forgot the two metal bands holding the 3 planks (of the original) together.
    I'd cut 'em from 0.5mm brass strip. Drill the rivet / bolt holes before cutting into narrow strips.
    I learned that the hard way! ๐Ÿค• Rivets from brass wire?
    Have fun, ๐Ÿคž
    Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Ah jus knowed you'd know Nerys ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ’ค
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by Nerys ( Admiral)
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    Yes Doug, the correct terms for the rudder hanging bits are gudgeons and pintles. The gudgeon is the bit with the round hole in it (the female side) and the pintle has a rod that sticks into the gudgeon, thus allowing the rudder to swing easily.

    Cheers, Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder Plan shown on 1st post
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hmm! See what you mean Rick. ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    The rudder apparently of wood and is hung on 3 pins rather than a continuous stock.
    I think I would tackle it this way.
    I'd make it in two halves so that I could cut slots for the pins.
    Would be impossible to drill straight holes for the pins in a single piece rudder.
    I'd trace the rudder form onto 1/8" wood sheet. TWICE!
    Preferably not ply if you can find something else, otherwise the edge might look a bit odd.
    Even balsa sheet would do, can later be hardened using EzeKote diluted with about 10 to 15% water. Then two coats of pure EzeKote (or similar๐Ÿ˜‰).

    When you have the two halves cut it is relatively easy to cut / mill the slots for pins.
    I used a Dremel type engraving tool and a round (ball) engraving bit to cut the slots.
    Make the pins from suitable brass or ally rod and glue the halves together with the pins in place. Take care cutting the slots so that they are all in a line to align with the hangers.
    On the hull you will need the three 'hangers'!
    (Nerys will know the correct technical name!๐Ÿ˜)
    I would make the hangers from 3mm (or whatever suits your scale) brass or ally sheet with long tails that I could epoxy into the hull. Use a suitable size rod to keep 'em in line while the epoxy hardens! Line them all up so that the rudder just drops in and turns easily.
    Main thing, use the same metal for both pins and hangers, to prevent electrolytic corrosion when they get wet.
    I recently used this sort of technique to make a balsa rudder with 1mm shaft for a micro Springer tug, and to make the keel with a 2mm slot cut for the prop shaft toob.
    Drilling it was a no go! They don't make 2mm drill bits that long ๐Ÿ˜
    If a 1/4" rudder is too thick for scale you can always sand it down and shape it when the EzeKote has hardened, or before you apply the EzeKote, as you wish.
    Then score it to simulate the three planks it seems to have been made of.
    Should look nice all fettled up and varnished.

    Hope this helps.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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