Thanks Martin.
Rick

Looking good Rick.

Martin555.

Hi Martin With the limited space for the servo and arm I built the pivot arm with threaded rod to be able to connect the rudder through the transom. Looks a bit off as the arm was built from my parts box a one of if you will.
Rick

Nice work Rick,
I like the use of the paintbrush shaft in the rudder.

Looking at photo 6 the linkage looks a bit strange, maybe it is the camera angle.

No it's just me just noticed the pivot point on the top linkage.

Keep it up.

Martin555.

Nice

Thanks Gary I like the pictures especially the rudder.
Rick

The photographs are not in reverse order after all.

Hi Rick, liked the photographs and thought I would add a few of my own from my open launch Lady Ayla, (the one with the Caton Engine.) No 1, the rudder and the added-on portion as it did not steer too well. No 2, the gearing operated by the servo, driving a flexible drive shaft that operates the ship's wheel via pulleys and drive belt. (O ring.) No 3 the control consul showing the drive control lever in neutral, (middle position.) No 4, the drive rod from the engine control servo, with a linkage added for the driver control lever. I can explain in more detail if that does not make sense. The photos are in reverse order,as in 1 is 4.

'Tell and Show' Rick 👍
😎

Thanks JB I wish spelling were as easy as me working on my boats.
Rick

Coming along well Rick

JB

A smaller prop would not have worked to power the boat. Have shaved down the stern and now have a working prop.Reinforcing and filling in now.
Rick

would a smaler prop be any use.😀

No one ever made anything without a mistake so sit back evaluate and think of the solution , I rather like Doug's idea of tunnel, you see a lot lifeboats with a tunnels

"Only then did I think about the propeller that's where I missed the boat LOL"
Oops! 😭
Well Rick,
How about filing / moulding a 'tunnel' in front of the prop and passing it off as 'an experimental hull'? 😉
Many great 'inventions' came about as the result of what was at first thought to be a 'cock up' 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

That's a good move waterproofing the internals is so important, its those areas that get covered up during the build that sometimes get forgotten and those are the bits that will come back to bite you in the future

Hi Steve Thank you for the comment.The filler looks more than it is.Will not have a second planking will fiberglass the hull and seal inside to help keep water tight.
Rick

Hi Rick
I have been so engrossed in my own travails that I have only just spotted your blog. I must admit, your planking looks far better than mine and I am surprised you needed so much filler?
Are you second planking like me or fibreglassing perhaps?
Steve

Thanks for the info Doug and Nerys .Will reread this post tomorrow and right down your how to .
Rick

BTW Rick,
I forgot the two metal bands holding the 3 planks (of the original) together.
I'd cut 'em from 0.5mm brass strip. Drill the rivet / bolt holes before cutting into narrow strips.
I learned that the hard way! 🤕 Rivets from brass wire?
Have fun, 🤞
Cheers Doug 😎

Ah jus knowed you'd know Nerys 👍
😎😴💤

Yes Doug, the correct terms for the rudder hanging bits are gudgeons and pintles. The gudgeon is the bit with the round hole in it (the female side) and the pintle has a rod that sticks into the gudgeon, thus allowing the rudder to swing easily.

Cheers, Nerys

Hmm! See what you mean Rick. 😮
The rudder apparently of wood and is hung on 3 pins rather than a continuous stock.
I think I would tackle it this way.
I'd make it in two halves so that I could cut slots for the pins.
Would be impossible to drill straight holes for the pins in a single piece rudder.
I'd trace the rudder form onto 1/8" wood sheet. TWICE!
Preferably not ply if you can find something else, otherwise the edge might look a bit odd.
Even balsa sheet would do, can later be hardened using EzeKote diluted with about 10 to 15% water. Then two coats of pure EzeKote (or similar😉).

When you have the two halves cut it is relatively easy to cut / mill the slots for pins.
I used a Dremel type engraving tool and a round (ball) engraving bit to cut the slots.
Make the pins from suitable brass or ally rod and glue the halves together with the pins in place. Take care cutting the slots so that they are all in a line to align with the hangers.
On the hull you will need the three 'hangers'!
(Nerys will know the correct technical name!😁)
I would make the hangers from 3mm (or whatever suits your scale) brass or ally sheet with long tails that I could epoxy into the hull. Use a suitable size rod to keep 'em in line while the epoxy hardens! Line them all up so that the rudder just drops in and turns easily.
Main thing, use the same metal for both pins and hangers, to prevent electrolytic corrosion when they get wet.
I recently used this sort of technique to make a balsa rudder with 1mm shaft for a micro Springer tug, and to make the keel with a 2mm slot cut for the prop shaft toob.
Drilling it was a no go! They don't make 2mm drill bits that long 😁
If a 1/4" rudder is too thick for scale you can always sand it down and shape it when the EzeKote has hardened, or before you apply the EzeKote, as you wish.
Then score it to simulate the three planks it seems to have been made of.
Should look nice all fettled up and varnished.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Doug 😎