Hi Martin, I will post some more photo's and text next week as I am waiting for materials which is due Monday.

Hi Muskrat,
I am following this log and it would be interesting to see some photos of how you are getting over this problem along with the text, as it will also benefit others that might have the same sort of problem.

Martin555.

Hi I have two straps around the Hull now one all the way round and the other around the middle under very little tension to just pull the top in very slightly but we'll pleased it not take to much at all. I will leave on for now Basswood coming Monday. I will finish the Hull strengthening first next week, then open up the hole in stern to lift the propshaft a little to fit the bigger prop. Hope the weather behaves and the fibreglass goes off ok. I will send my full name and address later when I get home.

Cheers Jon.

Hi Jon
You could use thin rope or even string. Just use some small pieces of ply or thick card under the rope to protect the gel coat on the hull. It should not need a great deal of force as you will be putting it in the same shape as it was in the mould. I should mention that at the bow and stern the curvature will require the stringer to bend. If you cut 1/2 way thro the stringer at say every 1/4" it will then be easier to bend to shape. Just soak the cuts and stringer in glue and clamp to the hull and adjust the inside spacers to give the correct shape. Do look down the length of the hull on each side and make sure there are no obvious dips or bulges. A one meter rule is useful but there may be a flare on the plan so make sure it looks right as any mistakes will need repairing or you will have to look at them forever☹️.
You may need to raise the height of the prop shaft so you have room to fit a lower mount for the rudder. You can repair any holes with P34 or similar.
I have just released the keels from the mould so if the weather is not too cold I will join the two together and when hardened I can smooth off and they will be ready to send, hopfully next week. PM me your name and address please
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, I think I follow that I need to find a strap I can use first and some Basswood which I can get local to me. I really appreciate your help I did not realise how much I needed to learn about boat building with a glass fibre Hull. I will use the 40mm prop and open the hole slightly.

Cheers Jon

Hi Jon
It is your choice but if you do that the plan will no longer match the hull. Meaning any measurements you make would need to be adjusted. I suggest you pull the hull to match the dimensions on the plan. Normally you would run and glue a stringer (1/4" basswood etc) at deck level all round the inside of the hull. You then use clamps to hold in position (I use straps wrapped round the hull and scraps of wood between the stringers). When set you can fit your deck beams by cutting a slot at each end to accomodate the stringers. It is quite common for fibreglass mouldings to lose their shape when out of the mould and that is an advantage of making your own as you can put the hull back in the mould and fit the stringers and beams so it follows the mould.
You are doing well but do take your time as any errors now will cause you grief later on.
I believe the bigger prop would be a better choice.
Glad you like the pics.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave How right you are and learn by your mistakes the Hull is wider than that the plan so I will be using the Hull and not the plan for measurements. Thank again Dave796🤔

All very nice looking sail boats in fact the three sail looks very similar to mine.

OK Dave I will take that on board with the fibreglass and the propellor in fact I have got a 40mm prop because did think the one I had Look a little small and a seven inch propshaft as the six inch a little short.

Cheers Jon.

Hi Jon
Just had a quick look for video of Brian Clewes' Amelie Rose but not found any so far. I am posting some pics that may interest you in the meantime
Dave

Hi Jon
I see you have discovered fibreglass is sometimes not constant thickness. I have laid up many hulls and even taking the greatest care the end result is often not uniform. For scale model use this is still structurally sound but for a high speed racing type the materials and resin used are carefully chosen for max strength and least weight.
If you are adding more fibreglass do it on the inside to avoid damager to the gel coat. Quite common for voids and thin spots where the two hull moulds join.
The prop on my Cariad was 40mm but it was in free water at the side of the hull. You will need a prop large enough to overlap your stern post as per the Amelie Rose pic. I suspect the prop on your model was for manouvering whilst docking in harbour. If you want this to help when on the water you may need something a bit larger than you have shown. You may need to raise the prop a centimetre or so higher to allow for the size.
I do have some video of our yachts sailing and I will try and find one of Amelie Rose.
Beautiful and sunny here today, but cold light wind. I have got the fibreglass in the moulds and its curing in the sunshine. When set I can join the two halves together with more fibreglass then it should be ready to post.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, I have done a lot of measuring since I received the Hull but I will try your way as well just to make sure, the one thing I did notice when I cut the Hull the thickness off the Hull wall one side was very thin compared with other side so I think I might lay some fibreglass sheet on thin side before I fit the propshaft and fill the hole I have cut for it. What size propeller did you fit to Cariad, would love to see your friend boat on the water, good luck with ballast mould.

Cheers Jon.

Hi Jon
I am making your keel but the weather is not helping. To-day seem ok though so hopefully I can get the fibreglass to set.
Brian had his Amelia Rose at the lake yesterday and I took some close ups of his central prop and also the keel for your info.
Good to see you are progressing with the build. I hope you have checked the hull moulding to the plans as there will have been some movement in the casting once out of the mould. I run a piece of thin cord from stem to stern at the mid point then measure every couple of inches from the cord to each side. Do the same with the plan then you can adjust the hull to the correct symetrical size. It's not unknown for the plans to be inaccurate so best to identify any anomalies early on, it will save you some grief further down the line. I usually make any parts out of card (cereal packets etc) and fit before cutting any wood or plasticard.
Looking forward to your next update
Dave

That's all the deck beams cut and shaped to size and cut a hole in the stern for the propshaft. (pictures on build blog.)

It's a Flower Class Corvette
Dave

Hi, Thanks for all the info on the keel etc. I have sent you a PM about Dropbox. what is the war ship on you page.

Kindest regards

Jon

Hi Jon
Any lead is suitable but be wary of any that has bitumen or tar coated on it. I also have a deal with my local tyre fitter to supply me with his scrap wheel balance weights. They come with the metal attachment tags and I just throw them in an old painters bucket with a handle. I then put on the camping stove and melt the lead. When melted I pour into some sand with shapes in to collect the lead. Make sure it is dry as any water will turn to steam and cause a scald. I always use my safety glasses, welding gloves, stout shoes and a leather apron to protect myself. Much quicker than trying to seperate the metal from the lead and I then have a selection of different sizes of lead. Make sure it has cooled before you try to handle the lead, it stays very hot for longer than you think.
I use layup resin which is thinner than the Isopon in the car shops. My local supplier is
http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/
and you need Polyester layup resin and hardener. 1 Litre will be more than sufficient. You can also get Acetone and Iso Propyl Alcohol to clean brushes and tools. I also wear Latex Gloves. You should have a local supplier in your area but this shows you what you require.
No do not fill above the lead so you can provide a seal between the keel and hull bottom.
The bolt need to be aft of the mast mounting, in my case at the bottom of the hull. If you look at the pics I have shard on dropbox you will see the bolt is about 1/3 from the front of the keel and fits as close to the bottom as possible, not forgetting the lock plate and nuts to prevent rotation. The keel front is mounted just ahead of the mast and adjusted so that the mounting bolt is aligned with the block of wood inside the hull. You could mount the block inside the hull with a hole drilled then mark the hull inside and drill a small pilot hole thro the hull. If it looks ok glue the block inside and open the hole to size. You can then adjust the bolts position in the keel and set its position with some lead and resin. I used a jig to hold the keel vertical and horizontal then put the boat over the keel with the bolt in the block of wood and adjusted the hull so it was also horizontal. Keep adding more lead and resin and checking the level to keep everything square. Stop when you have added all the lead or you are within an inch of the top of the keel. It may be more on your model as this was the depth of my hull keel which need to fit in the top of the keel I am making for you. You will see that there are flanges on the keel to support the weight to your hull. Once the resin has set in the keel (24+hours depending on temperature) you can make good the fit to the hull using P34 filler or similar. I covered my hull along the join are with a several sheets of cling film, then put the filler in the keel and mounted it to the upturned hull using the bolt to pull tight. Make sure the filler makes a smooth joint all round to the clingfilm and leave to set for some time as it will not set as quick as when uncovered. I had to give the bolt a very gentle tap to free the keel. You van then remove the excess cling film, I left what was on the keel and tidy up the edges to fit the boat hull. You may need to use more filler to make good. I sealed the hole in the block of wood with Polyurethane varnish but sanding sealer or similar would work. Finally I made a conical nylon plug for the top of the block to prevent water ingress. I also added some silicon sealant to the bottom of the hull where the rod attaches.
Glad to hear you have your motor. As you are fitting the prop behind the rudder you will need a fairly large 3 bladed brass prop but no bigger than the motor say 45mm.
I will let you know when I have the mould for the keel.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, I will use lead shot as a mate of mine use to do a lot of diving and he has given me 8 kilo in four bags and if i need any more i have about four kilo of old wheel balance weights i can cut up. Any ideas of what resin to use and will it be ok just to fill the keel just to the top of the keel and poor resin on top so it's just levels the hull at the bottom. can you also give some idea of how you figured out were to fit the bolt on ballast. My new 555 motor turned up this morning that was quick.

Cheers Jon

Hi Jon
I use cut up pieces of scrap sheet lead but shot would work. Just make sure it fits inside the keel and cut smaller if it doesn't. As I mentioned I put a bag, keel, motor,ESC and winches inside the hull and added lead to reach the waterline whilst the hull was in the test tank. I then removed some of the lead to allow for the resin to be added. Probably best to just add enough to bring to the base of the waterline as you can always add a little more inside the keel to correct later. In fact it is best to have the model riding slightly high until you have trimmed for sailing. I used threaded 1/4" rod for the bolt. Make a small plate to fit in the keel low down and bolt this to the rod eith two nuts, this will stop the rod from turning when you tighten the bolt inside the hull. Leave the rod a good foot above the keel until you have added the block of wood with a hole and mounted the keel and added any washers and sealers below the nut. You can then cut to size when you are happy.
Dave

Hi Colin, i managed to get hold of a 5 pole 555 motor today so i think that i will go with that and play with prop's if i have to.

Cheers Jon.

HI Dave that will be great and all i have to do then i suppose is to fill with lead and fixing bolt i guess, would that lead shot or cut up lead and set in resin. Thank you for the help to be honest i was not looking forward to trying to make shell.

Cheers Jon.

Hi Jon
No problem if it's not raining on Monday, Brian will take the mould to our sailing site and I will then fabricate the shell. Hopefully the weather will remain mild as the resin won't set if it's too cold. I will let you know what the postage cost is after I have posted. Component shop, Ian and Natasha, are running the Blackpool Show this weekend with help from local clubs. 😁👍
Dave

Hi That would great if that is possible if you can just let me know how much I owe you. I got in touch with Components shop and ordered a 555 motor and a metal geared servo for the sails. I will keep that shop in my parts list.

Cheers Dave much appreciated.

Hi Jon
Regarding the external ballast this is a fibreglass shell made by a friend. I can borrow his master and make you a copy if you wish. It is fairly light so will post OK.
Fitting the prop as you suggest will work better with some modification to the rudder.
Dave

Hi Jon
For a 555 motor try
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/motors/dc-brushed-motors.html
They have them in stock.
I see from other posts you were supplied with an 800 motor and as others have indicated this is unsuitable as is the 400 size. 540 motors would work but the 555 is more suitable for your model as it will draw less current and provide more tork at low revs.
Dave

Jon, sounds like your on the right track now, it will all be down to selecting the appropriate propeller, I try to get a balance of thrust to suit the boat, sometimes I may try up yo 6 props before final selection.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Colin the two motors i have are both 5 poles but the 800 i can send back as need to purchase a few other parts and return the 800 and swap for the size you advise, If it powers your monster it should be ok in mine.

cheers Jon

Jon, now I know the actual size of your boat i am thinking your 400 motor could struggle if pushing against any wind, is it a 3 pole or 5 pole motor, it is always best to go for a 5 pole as that will give better torque and smoother running at low speed.
I still think you would find the 540 or 545 motor a good match for your boat.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Colin My boat is 1/12 scale but 42inches long including the bowsprit but you can scale it down to the smaller model, I have a 400 motor as well i can try that if you think that would be more suitable, if i find it lacking in power i can always change it for the bigger one for more torque at a later date.

Kindest regards

Jon

Jon, following this blog, so far I'm not quite sure of the model.
Looking on Sarik site I'm assuming it's the 1/12th scale one, that has a 20 inch Hull. If that's right then the 800 motor is far too big, a 545 would be plenty for such a small model.
My large motor lanch Caroline is 56 inches, and weighing in at 13 to fourteen kilos is overpowered with an 800 motor, and my 4ft tug only uses a 540 motor and is really efficient.
Your boat isn't a speed boat, so some trial runs with the smaller motor will prove you don't need to waste money on a large motor.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Dave Thanks for your help with the dropbox. I tried to get a 555 motor and all i tried are out of stock but when i ordered my radio gear and accesories from Howes models i spoke to the boat man said a 800 is about right for my use so that what i got. The external ballast weight you have did you make it yourself because that's the way i want to go. I have also decided to fit the prop in front of the rudder.

Regards Jon

Thanks Dave i saw the local model shop sells both Left and Right but now you have said i realise it is for when you run more than one engine.

Cheers Jon

Thanks for that Dave I think I was getting confused the more I looked the worse it got.
Regards
Jon

Hi Jon
For a single prop the rotation is not important and either will be OK. You can swop the wires to the motor or change at the Tx to ensure the correct rotation.
Dave

Thanks for the info Dave i have sent a message with my email address, as a matter of interest do we use a right or left hand propeller.

Thanks
Jon

Hi Jon
The motor I used was a 555 brushed as this has good tork at low revs. You will need a mount and a HuKo type coupling to connect the motor to the propshaft. To control the motor you will need a 15 amp ESC and a battery for the motor and sail winches. Many ESCs have a built in BEC circuit but I would recommend using a separate UBEC as this will have sufficient output power for your requirements. If you are using a UBEC you need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC to the receiver and plug the UBEC into the receiver battery connector. My shaft was about 7" but chosen and cut to suit the hull, motor and prop size so may be different to what you require. The prop sits to the left side of the hull looking from the stern.
I do have a folder on my Dropbox account that contains lots of pics and the Model Boats article on building the Cariad. If you send me a private message and share your e-mail address I will send you a link to share the files. You don't have to join but will be able to look on-line and download any that are of interest.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave I wonder if you can help can you remember what length propshaft you fitted in Cariad along with a 35mm three bladed prop, universal coupling, Motor of course was there anything that i might need to fit a motor/propeller conversion to my boat.

Cheers Jon

Thanks for advise I will start by building a s
Building stand for the Hull first then start the model build, I have started a build Blog so here we go.

Cheers Dave much appreciated.

Hi Jon
As long as it is covered with fibreglass and resin and there are no holes it should be fine. You are building a model and the structural strength of the fibreglass hull will be more than adequate for the task. There may be some residual flashing along the keel where the moulds joined but you can carefully sand this away with some wet and dry fine sanding sheet on a flat sanding block. You will need to start by measuring the hull to the plan and making sure it follows the correct lines as there may have been some variance during the layup process. You will need a wooden support all round the inside of the hull at deck level and you can place cross struts to ensure correct sizes. I used flat tape wrapped round the hull to hold the inside formers whist the glue dried. You will need to roughen the inside of the hull where you are gluing to remove any residual release agent. Iso Propyl alcohol (IPA) is also good for cleaning all surfaces before gluing Use a good quality two part epoxy and not one of the cheap pound shop versions. Stablitz Express was my favourite when building model planes but you can now buy UHU PLUS ACRYLIT EXPRESS EPOXY which is ok. I built a building stand first as this will help with the build and establishing a datum line.
Just a thought, as you are now starting the build perhaps now might be a good time to start a build blog so others can benefit from the advice you will receive and seeing your progress.
Now the exciting part starts. Enjoy.
Dave

Cariad Means Love and Beloved in Welsh so i can see why, Anyway Katie arrived today at long last i was a bit shocked when realised how big it is but i can't wait to get started. I will study the plans first and see what material i need to at least to get started. Do you suggest strengthening the hull with some more fibre glass as the hull has some but thin places

Cheers Jon

I do believe Cariad is Beloved in Welsh and she certainly lives up to her name!

Hi Jon
I believe we should thank Stephen for designing the site, some years ago, in a way that benefits all modellers to achieve their potential when building and sailing their models.
Dave

Hi Dave I have as printed as much as i can to get me started, i like the idea that you can print a booklet i have never seen that on any club site a brilliant idea who ever thought of that one. Thanks for that Dave.

Cheers Jon.

Thanks for all that information I will look at this when I get home, my Hull and plans still not arrived but promised for tomorrow by Emma at Sarik Model.
Cheers Jon

Hi Jon
Please do copy the build blogs. You can also print them from the site and this may be useful when you are away from a PC/Tablet etc.
If you look at
https://model-planes.com/blogs/7821
About the tenth article from the start is one titled Ballast and Planking repair where you can see a pic of the keel with supporting steel bolt connector together with a pic in side the hull showing the nut holding the bolt in place. This is mounted on a large block of timber just forrard of the main winch servo. This need to be higher than the waterline and I use a sealant plug under the nut to stop any water ingress.
The keel is a fibreglass moulding made by one of my club members and is used in several scale type sailing boats. We fill the inside with lead to bring the model to waterline then put the bolt in the correct position for the hull mounting using a template. The keel is then filled with chopped up lead and casting (layup) resin. When set I finish off the top to match the keel with plastic padding and finally silicon sealant using a sheet of polythene between the keel and hull. After a couple of days warm weather you can separate and trim to shape.
Hope this is what you required but please ask if you need help. There are many modellers on this site and new ideas and techniques are something from which we can all benefit.
Dave

Hi Dave yes i have looked at them and lot of information to take in and i hope its ok but saved a lot of it to my laptop for future building of mine. Have you any pictures of fitting the bolt on external weight under the hull.

Jon

Hi Dave no I have not opened any of them because I was not sure what they were, but I will if there is more information.

Cheers

Jon

Hi Jon
Not sure if you have looked at the Build blogs for the Cariad I was referring to.
https://model-planes.com/blogs/7821
https://model-planes.com/blogs/8723
https://model-planes.com/blogs/20723
Hope your hull and plan arrive as promised.
Dave

HI Phil I have corrected that mistake got carried away, the conversion would be interesting I will have a look tomorrow I have eye strain now with all those pictures. I have just had some good news my Hull and plans are being delivered tomorrow. Thanks for all your help really appreciated.

Jon.

Hi Jon - not sure about the "Caradia blog" ??? . I am just converting a "Display" model of a Gaff Cutter to work on RC - Initial plan was just 1 servo (rudder only) but as things are progressing it looks like a winch servo will cope with some degree of sail control.
This is where Im` up to :- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdsv9h3gn3DX2jwDgB4GQ0Q

Cheers / Phil⛵