Hi Tomo
I agree with the advice given. I and my fellow club members build lots of wooden scratchbuilt models and use White Gorilla wood Glue as we can buy in 1 litre bottles. It's water resistant so needs to be sealed but we coat all our models with G20 pond sealer both inside and out so barring the odd accident the glue joints are protected. Sanding sealer or some of the other suggestions would work just as well.

Superglue is good for small fittings etc and sticks almost anything if degreased. Going back to my aeromodelling days we used to use a drop of superglue when joining stringers with white glue every so often. It set quickly and avoided the need for pins to hold the pieces in place.

Contact adhesive is brilliant if you are fitting thin laminated sheets over a large area ie a veneer on a cabin side etc. As others have said you don't have much wriggle room so everything needs to be correctly aligned.

I do miss the passing of the local model shop but there are still many very good shops around and it is up to us to support them or lose them.

Possibly the best advice is available at a local model club. The techniques are used by all modellers and most are willing to share their experience if asked.

Looking forward to seeing your build blog👍

Dave

Hi Mick, that is a wise decision on your part regarding the build blog, as you can log your progress as you go, and explain what you plan to do next, and if not sure then ask for advice. My build log has come to a grinding halt as another project has taken over, I am dismantling a lathe, repainting it, and eventually will rebuild it in Myford Green. Regards, Gary.

Hi I will attempt to set up a build blog in the next few days, busy week ahead so there won’t be much progress
Mick

Hi Tomo,
I agree with Steve and Gary.
I use diluted (ca 10 - 20% water) Deluxe Materials water based resin EzeKote (no nasty pongs, clean your brushes with warm water😊) to seal and strengthen balsa. Then glue with Ponal waterproof PVA white wood glue.
Looking forward to the Build Blog - whatever it is! I like surprises (sometimes😉)
Cheers, Doug 😎

That is definitely the way to go a PVA water-resistant glue and epoxy when required.

Hi Mick, I think your drawing is about the same age as me, as in getting on a bit. Sanding sealer or similar will seal the pores of the wood, and when sanded down is a very good base coat to get a nice paint finish. Balsa will soak up paint like blotting paper if not sealed with something. Hot fuel proofer is to stop fuel spillage from eating your paintwork, this is going back to an age when everything had an IC engine especially aircraft and boats. What is it exactly you are contemplating building, and whatever it is maybe start a build blog on here with a few photos, and let folks on here see what you are doing, and help out when the problems come along? Regards, Gary.

I use Aquadhere, which is a waterproof PVA type glue. I also use epoxy resin for some bits.

Hi wasn’t impressed with the model shop myself young lad was more interested in his phone but being the nearest it will be useful when I know what I’m talking about. While I’m posting to thank people for answers I’ll ask my next question for way in the future. For finishing the boat the drawing says sanding sealer on all balsa wood stain on ply all finished with Humbrol hot fuel proofed is this still relevant as I know the drawing is donkeys year’s old
Thanks mick

Hi Mick, that is sound advice from Stephen, and poor advice from your Model Shop. what you need is a water-resistant PVA wood glue. There are numerous different brands out there including Evostick PVA for interior use. I would recommend Duo wood adhesive 2 in 1, or Admiralty glues both PVA and water-resistant. There is a slide ability factor here where you can make adjustments before applying pressure to the joint. So stick with the PVA and give the superglue a miss, then you will only ever glue wood to wood and not your fingers. Regards, and happy building. Gary.

Hi Mick,

What is preferred really depends on the modeller.

Personally I would steer away from Contact Adhesives, not much time to adjust position of components, but the choice is yours.

Personally I use Titebond 3 woodworking glue this even glues Brass to wood very well, just scratch up the Brass first.

I avoid Cyanoacrylate/super glue due to it's potentially harmful fumes, then there are modelers who swear by the stuff.

Do some experiments to decide, see what works best for you.

Cheers,
Stephen.