Hi Tomo
I agree with the advice given. I and my fellow club members build lots of wooden scratchbuilt models and use White Gorilla wood Glue as we can buy in 1 litre bottles. It's water resistant so needs to be sealed but we coat all our models with G20 pond sealer both inside and out so barring the odd accident the glue joints are protected. Sanding sealer or some of the other suggestions would work just as well.

Superglue is good for small fittings etc and sticks almost anything if degreased. Going back to my aeromodelling days we used to use a drop of superglue when joining stringers with white glue every so often. It set quickly and avoided the need for pins to hold the pieces in place.

Contact adhesive is brilliant if you are fitting thin laminated sheets over a large area ie a veneer on a cabin side etc. As others have said you don't have much wriggle room so everything needs to be correctly aligned.

I do miss the passing of the local model shop but there are still many very good shops around and it is up to us to support them or lose them.

Possibly the best advice is available at a local model club. The techniques are used by all modellers and most are willing to share their experience if asked.

Looking forward to seeing your build blog👍

Dave

Hi Mick, that is a wise decision on your part regarding the build blog, as you can log your progress as you go, and explain what you plan to do next, and if not sure then ask for advice. My build log has come to a grinding halt as another project has taken over, I am dismantling a lathe, repainting it, and eventually will rebuild it in Myford Green. Regards, Gary.

Hi I will attempt to set up a build blog in the next few days, busy week ahead so there won’t be much progress
Mick

Hi Tomo,
I agree with Steve and Gary.
I use diluted (ca 10 - 20% water) Deluxe Materials water based resin EzeKote (no nasty pongs, clean your brushes with warm water😊) to seal and strengthen balsa. Then glue with Ponal waterproof PVA white wood glue.
Looking forward to the Build Blog - whatever it is! I like surprises (sometimes😉)
Cheers, Doug 😎

That is definitely the way to go a PVA water-resistant glue and epoxy when required.

Hi Mick, I think your drawing is about the same age as me, as in getting on a bit. Sanding sealer or similar will seal the pores of the wood, and when sanded down is a very good base coat to get a nice paint finish. Balsa will soak up paint like blotting paper if not sealed with something. Hot fuel proofer is to stop fuel spillage from eating your paintwork, this is going back to an age when everything had an IC engine especially aircraft and boats. What is it exactly you are contemplating building, and whatever it is maybe start a build blog on here with a few photos, and let folks on here see what you are doing, and help out when the problems come along? Regards, Gary.

I use Aquadhere, which is a waterproof PVA type glue. I also use epoxy resin for some bits.

Hi wasn’t impressed with the model shop myself young lad was more interested in his phone but being the nearest it will be useful when I know what I’m talking about. While I’m posting to thank people for answers I’ll ask my next question for way in the future. For finishing the boat the drawing says sanding sealer on all balsa wood stain on ply all finished with Humbrol hot fuel proofed is this still relevant as I know the drawing is donkeys year’s old
Thanks mick

Hi Mick, that is sound advice from Stephen, and poor advice from your Model Shop. what you need is a water-resistant PVA wood glue. There are numerous different brands out there including Evostick PVA for interior use. I would recommend Duo wood adhesive 2 in 1, or Admiralty glues both PVA and water-resistant. There is a slide ability factor here where you can make adjustments before applying pressure to the joint. So stick with the PVA and give the superglue a miss, then you will only ever glue wood to wood and not your fingers. Regards, and happy building. Gary.

Hi Mick,

What is preferred really depends on the modeller.

Personally I would steer away from Contact Adhesives, not much time to adjust position of components, but the choice is yours.

Personally I use Titebond 3 woodworking glue this even glues Brass to wood very well, just scratch up the Brass first.

I avoid Cyanoacrylate/super glue due to it's potentially harmful fumes, then there are modelers who swear by the stuff.

Do some experiments to decide, see what works best for you.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Right then woods arrived and have started cutting it was my intention to use evo stik wood glue as I have some from household use I did buy some superglue from the model shop and was told it’s good on wood. What’s the preferred method in the modelling world to glue balsa and ply.

Many thanks Mick

Thanks Gary more info for the memory bank
Mick

Hi Tomo, actually you have it dead right and the exhaust steam does go to the condenser, which then separates the steam from the emulsified oil from the lubricator, and is vented off up the side of the chimney or even into the chimney. On near enough all old steam-operated boats from the 30s, and 40s, tend to have two pipes side by side running up the chimney one being the steam exhaust the other being the steam whistle. Regards, Gary.

Hi everyone I’ve been looking at some very intricate steam engines on YouTube so the first of my stupid questions what dose a condenser do am I right in thinking the exhaust steam is collected in the condenser but what happens to it after that

Glad to have helped and maybe sometime in the future you will delve further into making your own boiler.
Glad to hear that Tony contacted you. I have met him often at model shows and he is very knowledgeable about model steam and is always happy to advise those wishing to delve into steam.👍
Dave

Good to hear Tony Green got back to you Mick. For me nothing more frustrating than not receiving a call back. Good luck with the build.
Rick

Hi Tomo,

Even if this is your first model, maybe consider starting a build log, there will be plenty of advice if asked for to help you through along with encouragement.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Thanks Dave for the information on reflection I think I might be trying to run before I can walk but it’s information stored in the memory bank. Just to let people know tony green did phone back and it was very helpful talking to him better than navigating his website he was familiar with the Mabel plans he has fixed me up with engine, boiler, propellor, propellor shaft and coupling. Waiting for wood now and then can get started
Thanks everyone more questions will follow

Hi Mick
Boiler tests are conducted by Model clubs affiliated the Southern Federation of Model Engineers and likewise the Northern Association of Model Engineers. The service is available to Club members and the Club Boiler tester will inspect and issue certificates if the boiler meets the standards. This is an important document as un-tested boilers may invalidate any third party insurance.
The material used must be of an identifiable quality. This is not always possible if the boiler has been constructed so it is important to discuss with the boiler inspector before commencing construction. There are plans available and with your engineering background and the correct tools and equipment it is certainly achievable. I suggest you initially seek out a local club that does boiler testing and talk to the boiler tester.
Dave

Thanks everyone for the quick response very helpful comments. I think I will go down the tony green route as this is what the designer intended for the boat and dimensions measure out pretty much spot on. I’ve phoned tony green because I wanted information on prop shaft but no reply is he good at returning calls. If in future I wanted to make my own steam engine and boiler from drawing where’s the best place to get drawings I have a engineering background but not knowledge enough in the model world to make things up would much rather follow plans. How would I go about getting the boiler tested. a lot more questions will follow I’m sure
Thanks Mick

Hi Mick, good to hear of another modeller interested in using a steam plant.

If you are intending sailing this on a public water I suggest you check with their regulations as many prohibit any form of steam model on their waters.

If you have a local club they may have facilities to test and sail model steam boats and will certainly be able to help you with the build and set up.

Others have suggested good suppliers for your needs so good luck and please keep us informed on your progress.

Dave

Hi Mick, and hopefully I am in a position where I can offer you advice having been involved with steam plant for the last fifty years. The main and deciding factor is budget constraints if you want to keep the spending down to an absolute minimum then Tony green is your man with his USE engines and fuel tablet boilers. The other side of the coin is the TVR 1ABB engine at around the £250 mark, and a 3 1/2" x 6" gasfired boiler will cost another £350, a reasonable investment if this is within your budget, as it will last forever and can be transferred into other boats. Let me know which road you are going to take and we'll go on from there, hopefully. Regards, Gary.

Hi Mick,
Tim is quite correct in the info he has given you, the engine you want is a USE, Unit Steam Engine, I believe boiler number 2 maybe a replacement, see attached link.

Cheers, Pete😊

http://www.tonygreensteammodels.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=110&sort=20a&page=1

Hi Mick Clevedon steam UK make and carry steam boilers and steam engines. GLC and myself and others have built steam boats. I show mine in the Harbor section I believe others have posted steam boats in there as well.
Ask away will help in any way I can.
Rick

Hello Mick,
look at Tony Green's website at
http://www.tonygreensteammodels.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=110
I don't know what a number 2 boiler is but he should be able to help. he sells a boiler number 1.
best wishes Tim

Hi Mick.
Welcome to our site.
Lots of helping hand here,and your first project sounds a challenge.
I am afraid I know nothing about steam power systems so am not a lot of help to you,but in the first instance can I suggest you check out some of the ongoing build blogs and then contact the builders.
There are quite a few avid steam builders here.
1) Steam Tug Lyttelton by Nonsuch.
2) Hyghlander Clyde Puffer by GaryLC.

This is to name but two of many.
Also Colin H is restoring a steam plant and may be able to help.

Hope this helps you on your way.
Regards Bill 👍