I can only repeat what I said earlier - don't use enamel spray cans, use automotive acrylic ones and you should have no problems, providing you follow instructions - main ones are warm, dust free atmosphere and drying time (which is only a few minutes). I normally wait until summer with a windless day and spray outside in the garden.
'Cormorant' have a look at my profile.⛵🚤

I too have had problems with paint crazing when applying the second coat within the allotted time to avoid sanding. This happened with an enamel based paint.
I solved it in two ways one, apply very light coats. Or allow 48 hours for a full cure before sanding and applying the subsequent coat.

Thirty two years in the job, mainly Traffic, retired in 1997.
The vehicle is a VW Porsche sports car which the Dutch police used to patrol their motorways. You can just make out their red crash helmets on the rear parcel shelf.
Happy days!

I agree with your reply Cormorant, especially about using a clear matt or satin to get a desired finish - a working boat looks totally wrong with a gloss finish. I believe that the VW orange is a very close match to the colour of RNLI lifeboat upper works.
From your profile photo it looks as though you are/were in the same organisation as me.

I also have used Halfords paint with great success.
particularly red or black primer below the waterline then oversprayed with matt varnish to prevent chipping and allow any marks to be wiped off.
I have used gloss black and got a superb deep shine and also Volkswagen orange on an Aeronaut Pilot Boat

It sounds to me Bruce that you are using the wrong type of rattle-can paint on your model. I would not normally use a gloss enamel from a rattle-can as I believe that these are, generally, intended for use on hobbies that are less demanding than ours. Here in the UK we have a shopping outlet called Halfords who stock an extremely large selection of automotive colours in rattle-cans. These cans are all acrylics and I have used many of them in all of the model boats I have built over many years. I have never had a problem with them providing you follow the instructions and also do a small test area first - just in case. Have a look on your automotive suppliers shelves and I am sure that you will find the equivalent in the USA and, hopefully, your painting problems will be at an end. Best wishes and happy modelling/painting.😀

I was told by my supplier some time ago that rattle cans have a shelf life and can deteriorate over time. After a few years of imposed inactivity it is possible that many local suppliers will have old stock so we perhaps need to be more vigilant in testing before applying to our prepared surface.
It is also very important to shake the cans for the prescribed length of time as the solvent needs to mix with the paint which may have settled over time. It is the solvent that causes the problems so shaking and using at the correct temperature is important.
Compatibility was more of a problem when cellulose paint was popular but most acrylics are OK but test first as some may react with what's underneath.

Bruce I often use that brand without any issues, but have had issues sometimes if the initial coat was too heavy, as rubbing back the surface the paint below which may not be fully cured can react. Also sometimes using cheap wet and dry without a drop of washing up liquid can leave chemical traces from their compound in the paint which can react with fresh coats.
I always wash off thoroughly and dry for 24 hours before applying another coat.
Cheers Colin.

This has happened to me and was very disappointed to experience it. Can share in your frustration.
As far as I can gather (not being a chemist), is that a recoat must be applied within the first hour so the various coats of paint can meld into one.
If this is not achieved, then the 48 hours allows the first coat to fully cure into a homongenus surface.
The second coat then acts independently.
If this is not done, then the risk is the first coat is still curing as the second is applied and they react as described.

There is no easy solution but to sand the crinkled surface down until smooth. Apply primer and, if satisfied apply colour as directed.
Do not think the rattle can paint manufacturer matters much as have used that brand successfully.
Since my experience, have appied all coats (including a matt top coat) almost one after the other, then store the work on top of our heating ducts and leave for a couple of days.
Think where you might have been caught out, is that in sanding the hard top surface was removed and a lesser cured surface exposed. This reacted to the new paint and crinkled.

You need to test a small area when using spray paint. I suspect you will have to remove all the paint down to the original plastic and start again. You have already started the process as you are dissolving the paint underneath.