Hi Dave976. the American Beauty model has 6 rudders. It is not at the simple end of making model boats work. So taking everything on board the only thing to do is to accept the situation as it is. One of the accepted methods of getting the rudders to function is to use the pair of conventional stern rudders linked together and mixed with the 2 esc's for the throttle.

The right stick rudder control actually activates the mixing with the left up/down stick controlling speed and direction.

I believe you are an ex-flyer so perhaps not used to going backwards. So in addition and separate from the esc's and the RH rudder servo you can fit the forward flanking rudders to a separate servo and link all 4 together and all turning in the same direction.

When the LH Tx lever is operated it does not operate the mixing only the direction and speed so the stern rudders stay where they are.
However when going in reverse with the LH stick depressed (this does not activate the mixing) it is easy to introduce left and right movement to operate the second servo operating the 4 linked rudders thereby giving simple steering in reverse.

The model has a complex rudder system with 3 rudders per prop with a Kort nozzle in between. So simple is not an option, however the system above does make it easy to work as only one hand is needed at a time. With tank control both hands are needed which can be a nuisance.

There are at least 3 other ways of connecting the rudders and I have connected up the rudders on my American Beauty model in the method outlined above. The main reason I use this method is that the flow of water into the Kort nozzle is not deflected by unwanted rudder movements in the inlet water.

Many Transmitters have mixers now and the LH stick lateral movement is often redundant so connecting a second rudder servo not connected to the mixing works out well. When operating the left / right movement on the throttle stick you will not be using the right hand stick at all.

If using a mixer operating from the receiver I would check that full servo movement is available on each channel i.e. not shared between them.
Roy

Hi bruce1946, yes you can use two motors with separate escs to control the model. If you have a recent radio with mixing facilities you can use this to control the two Escs from one stick using two channels and mix the rudder into both channels so that they all work together. You can also buy electronic devices that do the same and plug between your Rx, ESCs and rudder. It is possible to use three sticks but I accept this may not come easily to other than perhaps ex fliers.

Hi Bruce if you set up with 2 esc's one on each up/down stick then you drive it like a tank and you do not need rudders at all. Been there, and suggest you do not do it. You will never get the boat to go straight!

Which radio do you have? Also does it have a built in mixer?
Roy

No I haven't yet I'm not very smart on the electronics I do have a friend here to help me. I'm planning on setting it up like they suggest with 2 ESC's.
But I'm hoping I can use one motor in reverse and one in forward also for motor steering

Have you decided how to connect the rudders yet? I have been thinking about it for years but think I finally have the simplest method.

I have a 4/6 channel set with a mixer in the Tx. I will fit 2 esc's one for each motor and mix with rudders as per normal. The stern rudders I will connect together with one servo. The 4 forward rudders i.e. for going astern I will have on a separate servo connected to the left/ right Tx lever on the left.

The idea is that when going in reverse with the throttle lever down I can also use the same stick with sideways operation to control the flanking rudders. This leaves the flow of water into the nozzles undisturbed by rudders as they are always straight fore and aft.

Have you had any thoughts on this?
regards
Roy

One of my favourite new glues is Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue which is recommended by folks for gluing e.g. styrene window frames to timber superstructures. It will glue to paint but it is wise to abrade it first for better adhesion. I've also used it for gluing other things, where Superglue failed, as it is strong and dries clear.

Ha,ha,ha,ha.... Sorry Bruce.
Your question is a good one and by the previous answers, you'll see that there are numerous answers. there is NO hard and fast rule, but, as in your case, whenn the is wood to be sealed generally that should be done BEFORE any fiddly details are installed. Also do it when you can access all the areas easily because you will have to sand between the multiple coats of sealer. This usually means that you will be sealing the basic component parts before they are assemble into the major block components of the model. As for sealing the wood, others will be abe to give better advise there than I as i do not use much of it, so I'll keep my trap shut.
As for when to paint... that is dependent upon you and the model. If you color scheme is relatively simple, then paint the major components, once they have been sealed, as it is convenient for you. In some cases, like compicate camouflage schemes, the painting is done just before the last fine detailing are added. Quite a pain in the butt, that is.
I guess the bottom line is to do whatever suite you and that you find simplest. It is ususally fairly easy to go back and touch up missed areas and oops after all is said and done. I do it all the time and still am. Best of luck.

Hi Bruce
I would sand and seal as you progress and do the insides as well. Wood needs sealing or it will move with the humidity level.
Where you have to add to the sealed piece you need to abrade the joint with fine wet and dry or a scraper so the glue can bond to a clean surface. With small parts I have used a very fine drill to pierce the paint in several places. Painted surfaces if they have not been correctly bonded to the surface will peel and the joint will fail so best to abrade. It is also important to avoid touching the parts at the joint with your finger, if possible use some IPA to wipe with a clean paper towel to remove any surface oil/grease.
As an ex model flier I use Sanding sealer on wood I intend to paint and G4 pond sealer to seal wooden decks and hulls.
Your model is looking very impressive and I lokk forward to seeing how you progress.
Dave976

Hi Bruce. There is a lot of work to do. For the wood I would use 50 / 50 varnish and turps sub, no need to use fancy paints. Rub down wet and dry, do this several times until you have a nice smooth surface.

You are right to be doing it before you put in the various decks, much easier and you will get a clean line at the deck join. Use the paint of your choice and then put the s/s together.

There are a lot of wire items, treat each one as a separate model and paint and then attach in place. Make sure the cowlings vents and funnels get the same treatment you do not want any wood grain showing.

I would contact Dumas and ask for a new nozzle send them a photo of the broken one. They replaced a lot of my American Beauty fittings without any problem.
Is your hull a plastic one? My one is an original kit with a GRP hull so bonding the wood will be different for you.

The prototype has stanchions along the deck but not on my plans anyway, I shall be fitting them.

The metal fittings on the deck are best fitted with small pegs made from cocktail sticks. Drill a hole in the fitting and lodge the stick in there and then a close fitting hole in the deck. Otherwise they will get knocked and just vanish.

There is a superb video of the prototype I think on the Ohio River I find it very inspiring to look at the detail.

It is all looking good so good luck with the rest.

Roy

Trying to understand what stage you seal and paint your projects. I getting ready to start sealing My MV American Beauty with all the external parts stairs side rails, and such It would make the boat very difficult to sand, seal and paint and about a hundred windows to install clear windows in.
So I thinking about building the 4 decks in stages get them sanded , sealed and painted. but my worry is adding, and glueing the other items like stairs, side rail walls, smoke stacks, combings. these would all be painted before assembly, and would reguire some scraping of paint. CA glue doesn't bond well to piant as do most glues I'm using a one part Epoxy base paint, and thinking of using a 2 part epoxy to connect added components. Deck and bulhheads are different colors most of the boat is white and decks are grey. metal railing Light Davits, mooring cleats winches,Capstainswork boat will all be added after everything else.
I still need to seal the bilge areas motor mounts electronic as I finis the 1st deck I will be using a 2 part epoxy inside this area and use the same epoxt to afet lite sanding to join these parts to the bildge area.to make sure they all bond to the ABS hull, along with all the rudders and prop shaft.
The nozzles are 3 D printed and I have already broke one (thanks Dumas) so I need to figure out how to strengthen these 2 Nozzles /props. they are not very robust
Looking for thoughts and open to Ideas on the best way to approach this.
the 4 decks are assembled and fitted They not joined to each other as of yet. Deck 1 and deck 2 will not be joined together other than screws
Thanks in Advance