Thanks for sharing, Colin.
I love to repurpose the only problem is I never throw anything away.
When I do I aways find I need it later🙄
Trev

Balsa is easy to work with, Great for Static Models.
Blocks of Balsa can be shaped quite easily
Trev

thanks tim, and to everyone who has contributed to my thread, will have a few more question
s that ill post here if thats ok?

thanks again guys, its great to be here😊

Good evening Roboboyo.
I have a variety of models from as far back as 1914 to present day. The oldest was built from paper mache over a cardboard frame with wooden deck and masts. It was powered by a clockwork motor up to about 1960 when it started to deteriorate from the paper delaminating.
So now it is a static show item.
I also have a small tug that was built from all balsa wood and still sails regularly.
But as yours is a static display model you can use whatever materials you feel comfortable using.
Modelling is about creating small scale items using whatever is available.
I try to use mostly recycled materials for repairing and restoration purposes.
Hope you find this useful, cheers Colin.

Hi Roboboyo,
I didn,t know what you were building but a block of balsa might be perfect for the hull. depends whether the interior will be solid or open. Also many people like to make the superstructure out of solid balsa then skin it with thin ply, card or plasticard. It's your choice really. What do others think?
best wishes Tim

Hello Roboboyo.
Welcome.
Like many others I use Balsa wood a great deal and agree with the comments made by other members.
It is such a versatile and forgiving material BUT must be treated with respect when near water and treated with sealants accordingly.
I am not sure if you take the Model Boats Magazine but by coincidence this month (March2022)features a great article on Balsa.
It covers the different types and virtues of working with it.Well worth a read.
If you don’t get M B magazine you can purchase from Smiths or other high street dealers.
Hope this helps and we are all here to help.
Happy building.
Regards Bill.

Thanks Tim, I’m a complete newbie. I used to make boats out of cereal boxes as a young boy lol


I’ve been interested in woodwork for years but with very little knowledge or skill!! I’m finally in a position to really get stuck in and I’m like a kid in a sweet shop as I gather info!! Thanks everyone for the replies, so maybe balsa is not the way forward then, I want to use wood that I can cut on a scroll saw (dremmel version)

Hello roboboyo,
I totally agree with Dave and Newby, many of us started out many years ago by buying balsa kits from firms like keil-kraft and others. Here's my contribution.
1.Screws rip out of balsa. An extreme case would be an engine mount for an ic. engine.
2. There is different quality balsa, some is harder than others, some is too soft. Some cuts nicely across grain with a knife others tear.
3. Direction of grain in a model is very important. Whilst the same is true of ply it is more forgiving.
4. It sands easily, in some cases too easily. i have lost count of the times I have got carried away sanding.
5. I find that using a razor saw is best (for me) for cutting across grain. Cutting inside curves can be tricky as the knife blade sometimes follows the grain rather than where you want to go.
6. Finally, balsa has prominent grain which might need a lot of filling.
a model that I am currently working on is HMS Hornet, a Torpedo boat destroyer from the 1890's. The structural parts of the boat are wooden rod and ply but the stern, part of the bow and fore deck are carved balsa block covered in aircraft tissue and doped several times.
Good luck with your project.
Tim

Thanks for the info.

I was going to use the dremmel saw for the cuts.

Basically I want to do a model roro ferry and it will be for show rather than used for working. I’ll have it flat on the bottom on a sheet of wood to mimic it sailing the sea (if that makes sense. I’m thinking of doing the Irish ferries boat isle of innishmore

In addition to what was previously stated, Balsa swells quite a bit when wet. it needs to be encapsulated-sealed with resin to avoid water penetration.
Trev

Thanks a lot mate, I’ll look into that, does basswood come in different thicknesses?

Hi Roboboyo
I have to agree with Newby7. For weight balsa is hard to beat but it is fragile. Basswood is a good alternative as is thin marine ply.
I used 4mm balsa on a 9ft model of RMS Olympic for the hull but this was sealed both inside and out with fibreglass cloth and resin and used 5mm ply formers.
For the formers ply sheet is as good as any and stringers can be pine or similar white wood.
I do believe you will find cutting all but the thickest balsa with a scroll saw challenging. Sharp craft knives and straight edges are commonly used to good effect.
Have you a particular model in mind as maybe another member has already build the same or similar model.
dave976

Balsa is good because it is light in weight. The problem is it marks and breaks easily. I do use balsa for some areas but prefer basswood good to work with and stronger than balsa.
Rick