Ah yes, the old dance, one step forward two steps back.
I do hope you solve this as I know you will as I too have a vibration problem with my Typhoon.
By the way the Pig line is one of my favorites😂😂😂
Trev

Hi Trev, thought I almost had it, but wasn't that hopeful in the beginning, as I know what Chinese stuff is like, but it was worth a crack. There must be better quality fittings somewhere, probably US, but a lot of places won't ship down here, and the cost is usually prohibitive if they will. Not giving up yet though,- there will be a way, just haven't found it yet.

JB

This time I used the ends of the CV shafts which normally house the hex sliding shafts. Made an ally shaft to fit snugly inside, and pinned them with a 3mm grub screw. Also added the balancer from the earlier shaft, but this time drilled and tapped a 4mm hole one side, for a 4mm grub screw, idea being to rotate it and neutralise the vibration.

As before, it all vibrated insanely at anything more than about 5000rpm. The balancer reduced it slightly, but even putting 2 grub screws in the same hole to add more weight changed nothing. The ends are so badly out that nothing is going to fix it unfortunately. One of the biggest problems is that the CV joint has far too much side movement, and that and the Chinese machining error, added together is useless for anything high speed. Maybe tiny Teflon shims either side of the CV ball to take the play out might work, and a big hammer to straighten the ball end, but..................

I think I'll give it a rest for a while, till I think of something different to use. I think for this type of system, a cable may be the only answer.

CONCLUSION,- you can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig😁

JB

Hi JB,
That truly is unfortunate, I really thought you had it solved🤔☹️
Trev

Hi Trev, sadly another failure (see reply to Steve below) Works ok at low speed only. I was hoping this would sort the vibration issues. Next idea

JB

Hi Steve, it might look ok, but the Chinese junk on each end lets it down and it vibrates like a bas#***rd,- not even drilled straight,- seemed fine till you hooked it all up. Obviously done in more than one operation, and one doesn't match the other. The shaft is dead straight though,- that was the easy part. On to the next experiment.

JB

Looks Like the Ticket, JB👍👍
I wish you could put that set-up on the market, nothing comes close
Trev

Looks like a bought one JB,
It is nice to be able to make components to your own spec's.

Cheers,
Stephen.

I decided to make a purpose built driveshaft for the experiment, which will be used if things work out. The last driveshaft worked quite well and ran smoothly in the right position, but the alloy rod was not going to be permanent as it's too soft. I had some 4mm silver steel left from the new jet prop shaft, so I started with a short length of that.

Made step up bushes for each end to fit the 6.8mm holes in the back side of the CV joints,(other ends are 5mm for the motor and prop shaft)- one was a press fit on the shaft and the other a push fit (so as to be removable) with a 3mm hole in the side for the CV grub screw to go though to grip the shaft. I fitted a 4mm flanged bearing in one end of the 8mm brass tube and left the other end (transom) open for now, as I may fit an Acetal bush for salt water use.

There is a Teflon thrust washer for each end of the tube. I'll fit an oiler tube as well. Also slotted the motor mount to allow for adjustment of the stinger drive. Hopefully this will be the option with the least vibration, - also won't need a seal on the transom. The experiment continues.

JB

Hi JB,
I do like the idea of an adjustable motor mount 👍👍
Would seem to solve a lot of alignment issues, thus reducing vibration.
Trev