Pacemakers are in constant contact with fluids. These fluids are not just water but full of all sorts of things that the body produces and are probably what was eating away at the the epoxy

Very good point Chris, a model sits in water 'way less than 24/7 so a resin finish shud be adequate protection as long as any standing water is removed from the bilge at end-of-sail. Cheers! Rod

To be fair though Ron the pacemaker would be in contact with fluids continuously. With a model boat there would only be contact with water for short periods of time and coating with epoxy resin is a tried and tested method.

I had a similar situation with painting my Faireys having decided to brush paint them. I decided on International Paints as for full-size craft but it is not recommended for use below the waterline even though it's an oil based paint. Having put several coats on it has produced a wonderful and hard finish and I've got no concerns about it being water resistant for the time the models will be on the water.

Back to coating the inside. If I was building a sailing yacht, especially if plank on frame, as they tend to get water inside and there are nooks and crannies, I'd epoxy resin it. For boats with good access and ply sheeted I'm happy to use Eze-Kote, even though it's water based, as any water ingress can be easily mopped up. Others may disagree though?

Chris

Water migrates thru epoxy. Early heart pacemakers were encased in epoxy & the water in body fluids wud migrate inside & short out the electronics & batteries after abt 2yr. I'm building 2 Springer tugs, ZIPP kits from Florida, one single-engine brushless. And the dual-engine one will be brushed to utilize 2 motors gifted to me. Both will be coated inside with ezecoat,& the exterior will be HOME HARDWARE silver grey porch paint which is what i used on a "real" boat that i built years ago. Its an acrylic latex self-priming porch (& floor) paint. I'm also building 2 of their airboats as our ponds get very weedy by late July.

No both items are straight from the tin
just type in EZE-kote on your browser loads of people sell it
for Hammarite most DIY shops sell it in either a hammer finish or a smooth finish. I always use the smooth finish

is that the stuff you mix together

thanks for that a good tip ill get some

I always give a coat of eazykote resin followed by two coats of magnolia Hammerite it makes a boat "finished" and also makes it easier to see inside and is waterproof.

I would suggest coating the inside of the hull with resin especially if the wood is balsa.
there is always a good possibility that the insides may get wet even if the boat does not leak.
If it does get wet the wood may swell, thus cracking the hull.
Trev

I coat mine with Eze-Kote as that is what I use on the outside. But I've read that is not completely water resistant so resin should be used. But I'm not expecting to get much water in and will dry it off straightaway.

I'm going to add paint to the rear compartment of my build with a stern-drive drive as there is a good chance I will get water into that due to the number of holes I have through the stern. Will be using silicone sealant to stop it though.

There is an argument to coat both sides of timber to stabilise it, maybe if planked but would think ply is Ok.

If the area at the front under the deck is fully enclosed I wouldn't worry about it.

It is a good idea to protect the Inside of the boat as at sometime it is going to get wet.
It also looks a lot cleaner and more like a finished model.