Always open to suggestions. Lew

Lew, here is another wacky idea. Instead of the 2 abeam cross bars with the elbows on them that join the uprights together, replace the elbows with tees and then extend the cross bars so that they extend past the uprights on each side so now it would be easier for 2 people to carry and walk with the cradle since they would be walking forward and not sideways. Sorry, maybe I am probably just overthinking this.LEN1

I'm not too sure that this cradle would handle a boat with two people holding on to it walking side by side. Will probably be difficult launching.

One of our members has a heavy (60 pounds), longer boat and they use a pole with suspension straps. One person on each end of the pole.

Glad to hear opinions, makes one think deeper.

Lew

The reason I was thinking about 2 is that if the boat is heavy than it might be easier if 2 people were to move it with one on each side and the thought about a third one on center is for balance as you said if one person was to carry it. Len

Len1, need at least the one in the middle for balance. 3/4" schedule 40 (thick wall) can take some weight. Going out to get the pipe now.
Lew

Lew, just a thought, maybe use 2 top handles going fore and aft near the outer uprights instead of one in the middle or maybe 3, leaving the one in the middle. Maybe over kill but it depends on the size, weight and the launching site. LEN1

Figured out the revised (actually a replacement) cradle. Quickly touched up a photo so I can put together the materials (I have a lot of PVC parts). This will also give you an idea of the handle going fore/aft. This is a more natural and comfortable position to carry the boats.

Also, I am going to make this new one a little longer as my fireboat will be 54" long. Probably use four web supports instead of 3. BTW, the web straps do not need to be weighted in the middle.

Lew

I need the cradle for my 42" tug weighing in at a hefty 35 lbs. LEN1

I need to work on a design for the fore/after handle. Have to search for my box of PVC fittings.

The heaviest I have carried is about 20 pounds at 48". Have not tested the actual limit.

Lew

Hi Len,
For small models a fore and aft handle could be used safely with just one hand.

However for long (and especially heavy) models, a longer handle allowing the easy use of both hands would definitely be safer.

John. 😊😊😊

Lew, if I understand correctly if you turn the handle to be fore and aft instead of abeam would that require 2 handles? LEN1

A little update on my launching cradle.

Per the photo, I do have 4 drain holes near the bottom. The tubing does not have a lot of internal volume so there is no severe floatation issue.

The inverted "U" shape handle is held in place with 1/4" clevis pins. The two bottom cross members can be removed to flatten everything, but I don't typically take those apart.

Future update: I need to turn the handle 90 degrees (fore and aft instead of abeam) so my hand is in a natural position for carrying.

One more advantage to this design is that it protects the sides of the boats from hitting the launching dock.

Lew

Yep, will be adding some venting holes before use, I’ll be testing in my pond first!

Neilw… I saw something alike once, this olde skipper ( no disrespect to you olde guys ) only had holes in the bottom of the horizontal pieces to allow the water in, but no vents for the air to get out. He struggled trying to push it down into the water to unload his boat. He was all proud of his launching rig up until that moment. 🙄 We popped a few vent holes on the top side of the same horizontal bits for the air to get out. Worked like a charm then, the smile came back to face and off he went skippering his sailboat.
I’m guessing you have pins or similar to lock the handle to the cradle when using…

Well that’s my 2 cents of nothing

Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated. Have to admit to making a copy of LewZ’s cradle, though it is now over engineered but should give the flexibility of launching mine and my 84 year old father’s boats.

All made in 32mm pvc with PVC cemented joints. I found some old toe strap material from one of the many boxes of boat bits. Luckily Toolstation had a offer on the black fittings so the whole thing ended up at less than £20.

The handle is removable for transport.

The Perkasa fits a treat and the Crash Tender although looking tiny fits in fine. Just need to drill a few drainage hole in it so it sinks when launching.

NeilW. There is no such thing as being too careful😀. Life has a way of biting you in the butt when you least expect it. LEN1

My first 3 or 4 launching cradles were the suspension type using webbing from Harbor Freight (tie-downs). They worked fine but I found the need to set a heavy boat down once or twice while transporting it from the bench to the water (about 80 feet) without damaging the props or rudders.

This frame cradle also allows me to set the boat the boat on the dock just prior to launching to make any last minute adjustments.

When prepping the boat it's on a table. Suspension straps are clumsy getting them on to a good sized boat on a table. With the frame cradle I just set it on the ground, lift the boat off its stand and slide it in the frame cradle, pick it up and go.

At the dock I just dip it in the water and throttle the boat out.

As I usually bring multiple boats to meets, this one size fits all cradle works great. Just like eating soup with a spoon!

Lew

I use webbing loops for all my models. Good for yachts also if you make the straps long enough. Don't forget some lead attached to the mid point so the straps sink. It also helps to keep the lifting point close together to prevent the straps slipping on the model
dave976

Having just completed the Port side I’ve seen there’s a potential issue with the torpedo cranes that overhang the deck, I can see that may cause some issues with the straps or I need to be very careful

If you cannot find the 2 large used fan of cam belts from a rare friendly garage noted already, you could make your own strong launching straps as follows:

Cut two 12 inch lengths of broom sticks or similar strong wood. Then two 4 to 5 foot lengths on nylon webbing strap (from an old ratchet strap or an upholstery\ haberdashery shop) screwed securely to the handles. Judge a common suitable length of the 2 loops - based on your own height and distance at your normal pond down to the water. Short lengths of lead sewn on to the outside edge of the straps will aid launching and removal from the floating model.

Good luck. John😁😁😁

Great Subject. My boats are a bit heavy and being up in years its a bit hard to launch. Folk's in my club use various methods. The easiest one I saw and used was two large automotive fan belts attached to a wood handle. When using, you slip fan belt around your model you can lift it up and put it in the water. The repeat the process when taking out. This is simple and will not take that much room up when placing it in your car.😊

Whilst on the subject - has anyone come up with a safe way to launch a 28lb yacht from a landing stage? So, I cannot get into the water, and cannot just lean down and launch. Stage is about 1 foot above water level, and my old ways of launching power boats is as described below with a launching cradle loops, but that does not work with mast and sails in the way, and cannot just hold onto the mast to launch as with lightweight yachts. Thoughts please?

ok, now have a pic, mounted herewith, the webbing is from an old cargo strap, the length of the loop is about 36", ie 72" in total, It works for me at this length as across my bit of Brittany there are various heights of launching quay.

Tea ? Ah yes, the planning of a project is very important. Neilw, l can hear your kettle boiling. Time for a little brain storming 💡💡💡

Many thanks for all the replies, lots to think about. I have a load of webbing left over from dinghy hiking straps. I may even have a set of padded ones from an old Finn dinghy if I can remember where they are.

I’m thinking about the UPVC tube route with the webbing to support the hull.

Think the next stage is drinking multiple mugs of tea while doing some hard staring at the hull.

Hi all, the lead weights for the loop is necessary. My first attempt at a cradle had various cushioning etc and the outcome was the launching cradle floated! Most embarrassing and needed pushing into the water.

I use the loops now. However all my yachts have strong wires / cords to the mast that are well located on deck so that the boat can be transferred to the water holding the upper part of the mast(s).
regards
Roy

I have one cradle for all my boats (smallest is a 18 inch LCM and the largest is a 47 inch PT-gunboat which is quite heavy). It is made mostly of 1/2 & 3/4 inch PVC pipe and some hardware. The attached PDF has the information. I have been using this for many years without failure.

Another SSMBC member made several cradles for himself and others (see the photos) using 1/2 inch steel conduit, welded together.

Both of these designs allow the boat in the cradle to set on the ground, much better than using suspension straps.

Lew

As I said I had only seen the idea in use. This is very useful information.
My boats have always been quite small but I am currently building the MMM Dawnlight and when finished I’ll have a go at making the straps as described 👍👍👍

Forgot to say the business end, the bit you hold is a piece of wood / dowel probably 3" wider then the beam sizes, You are creating an elongated 'D' shape loop!

As per RichardE, I use this system, it works well, but remember to put some weight at the bottom of the 'U', I use small lead discs stitched to the outside face, let me know it you want some pics!

I have not used this method myself but it looks effective. Two broad straps formed into loops, length to suit the drop into the water. One round the bow and the other round the stern. Lower away and then remove straps. I saw this done at the Southport pond and it worked well.

Good work.
Good planning pays good results too.