Hello Dave,

Thank you again for more informative help and the PDF file.

Greg 👍

Hi Greg
Not sure if you have the building manual for your boat so am attaching a copy FYI.
You do not need to replace the servo tray as it is already fitted - just needs shortening at the stern.
You will need to replace/repair the two rear stringers with similar sized wood.
All the tabs are just there to help with alignment and provide support for the servo tray - which can be achieved with a fillet of wood as I suggested.
Using the outer skins will help you align everything.
You have everything you need to complete the model and the less you remove will be far the easiest option.
Cheers
Dave976

Hello Dave,

Wow. Thank you for all that information.

By coincidence I have the hull in front of me. I think this kit is fated because not being able to use my hand I just managed to break both of the chine stringers on either side. Don't ask me how I managed it. I haven't a clue.

You mention the servo tray. I will have to replace that as well because the chap at WBC said to make a larger tray from two of the same part so that it would fit properly. that is why he sent me another part 7 so I could cut the two and glue together to make the part longer so it located in the slot in the transom.

I have emailed WBC today asking to purchase additional chine stringers, servo tray and transom. Some how I've just got the feeling I'm not going to hear from them after my last email was not answered. The stringers can be easily replaced by using strips of 3mm square timber. I ordered the transom part in case I break it when removing it. The servo tray will have to be replaced as I altered it's length.

Anyway we will see what develops.

Greg 👍

Hi Greg
Ok when you are able the repair can be accomplished. At present you have a hull with a transom fully glued in place incorrectly. This is really the only part that need removing and is relatively accessible.
I would use a coping/razor saw to carefully cut thro the joint between the transom and the top deck. Leave the tabs in the top deck.
Then cut thro the joint between the servo tray and the transom. Ignore the tab. The round hole will now be open at the stern so you may need to temporally clamp a piece of wood 1/8"x1/4" underneath to support. I assume this is to give access to the rudder. When finally finished you may need to open the round hole to the original diameter with a round file.
Then cut off the join between the bottom stringers and the transom which can then be removed. You could cut round the join or cut flush and remove the stringer bits later.
Get some large rubber bands ( I get mine from discarded Postal services rubber bands) and put them round the hull fore, middle and back.
Insert the two side skins and align with the bow and hold in place with the bands (you may need to pin in places).
At the stern mark the edge of the skins with the bottom stringers and the servo tray.
Measure the thickness of the transom and use this to mark the correct position on the servo tray and cut using the outside (stern) of the marked line.
Try the transom for correct fit (top to bottom) and carefully sand (using a flat sander) until you are happy it aligns on both sides with the side skins.
Refit the transom to the underside of the deck and the bottom stringers. This will again require some careful sanding so take your time. It sometimes helps to take a break at this point and return refreshed before proceeding.
When happy glue the transom back in place. When set cut the stringers flush with the transom and sand smooth
To support the servo tray I would use a small fillet 1/8"x1/8" of wood underneath the tray, attached and glued in place.
You could order new parts but that will require much more work to remove the parts already glued in place and once built there will be no evidence of the repair I am suggesting.
Hope this helps for when you are able to proceed
Kind regards
dave976

Hello Dave,

Thank you for the sound advice. I won't have a problem making parts or remaking to fit. My added frustration is not being able to use my right hand following the surgery. Even slight movement at the moment is painful which is be expected. I don't see the surgeon for another month where I am hoping he will allow to remove the splint I have to wear 24/7 now.

Yes, I did contact the Wooden Boat Company directly although I purchased the Kit from Cornwall Model Boats. I contacted CMB the end of last week and they have said that they will look into the poor response I received from WBC.

I think, once I am able, I will order some new parts to replace those I messed up following the advice I received WBC and start again from where I went wrong.

I don't know whether I have already said, but having made contact with the above company about what I thought was a problem and on their recommendation I made a larger part to fit. And after making and fitting the part I found that I now had other parts that did not fit I did email the person again and said that I was disappointed with the kit and as I had no idea where things had gone wrong I had wasted my money buying the it and that I would have to stop building the boat and cut my losses. To date. I have not had any reply from them.

Greg 👍

Hi Greg
I do understand your frustration and feelings regarding the aftersales offered by the supplier. Many work on very tight budgets and simply do not have the staff to provide the support sometimes required. This is not a dear kit and it's possible the cost of the wood and production is barely covered. I am assuming here you contacted The Wooden Boat Company?
With your current disability with your right hand I do understand modifying the model will be a challenge but hopefully in time the situation will improve.
In my area we have a group called Men in Sheds that meet weekly and there may be similar in Exeter. I believe it is a Council supported venture and they mainly work in wood so could help. Also we have a few retired joiners in my club and if you can find one in Exeter they may be willing to help. If any of our members are local to Exeter and are able and willing to help I would hope they make contact.
As this is a laser cut model the sides will be cut to size and shape so should give the angle. You will need to carefully cut out the glued parts and once you have the Transom refitted remake the rear of the servo board to fit. Easy for me to say but I do understand this may not be possible without some outside help.
Kind regards
dave976

Hello Stephen,

I know Bude. I lived there when I retired and first moved to the West Country in 1998. Bude is over 50 miles from where I am so that and any other club of any distance are not options. My problem is driving and distance. The Arthritis in my hands becomes too painful if I drive the car a distance. I'm okay for the local area but that's my limit.

Good club suggestions though.

Greg 👍

Hello Nick,

Thank you for your post. Interesting. I haven't the kit in front of me at the moment but I will have a look. But I don't remember another part to the transom.

Greg 👍

Hi I believe the bude club is good they use the old canal I don’t know about it he club been to the torquay club once you might have to travel I live in west Cornwall my local club is Hayle a good lot tend not be a lot of help best ones for help has been the club at new quay but that’s trek I have a local lake that’s not used much least it’s not deep if anything goes wrong

Just looking at the photos. Is not the transom in place now just an inner skin, and you need an outer transom skin on as you complete the hull.
My Huntsman is like that see pics below for an idea what I mean I apologise for quality.