Hi J, Ugly, glad you explained as I thought the avatar was your good self after a great night out!

One of the words associated is Jolly Pirate! Unfortunately the word Jolly at the time meant a smile by a very very naughty person. It is one the words that has changed meaning over the years.
Words do vanish over the years and typical ones are the opposites of negative words also known as 'Orphan negatives'.

Here is a copy of a few I found.
• Is a pleased person gruntled?
• Are nice people ruthful?
• May an intelligent person be described as a becile?
• Would someone who makes himself obvious be going cognito?
• If surgery is performed reattached a severed head, is it called a capitation?
• If an arm or leg is reattached, is the patient being membered?
• Is someone who can easily be overcome considered vincible?
• If something is in motion, might it be described as ert?
• If something causes harm, is it nocuous?

If puzzled the 2nd. one is Ruthful / Ruthless.

Hope this was of interest?
Roy

Morning Gang!
Just for Grins.
Rod thought it might be fun to explain my avatar as I am a huge fan of the late great Robert Newton. I am pretty sure he's no stranger in the UK and he still has a big following this side of the pond. And just for some extra grins I included a fun link below this article I pasted up.

Why Do Pirates Talk Like That?
BY GRETCHEN MCCULLOCH
SEPT 19, 201411:32 AM



Break out the “Arrrrr, me hearties!” because today is International Talk Like A Pirate Day! But where does our idea of pirate speech come from?

Although popular pirate literature dates from the 1700s, starting with A General History of the Robberies and Murders of the Most Notorious Pyrates in 1724 and reaching its heyday around the publication of Treasure Island (1883), pirate speech didn’t always sound like it does now. In The Pirates of Penzance (1879), for example, there is nary an “avast” nor “matey” in earshot. But then, Gilbert and Sullivan’s pirates are atypical for other reasons: The opening song, for example, has them drinking sherry, not the now-traditional rum.

The linguist Molly Babel points out that our current associations of pirate speech came about largely through film, and that one of the primary influences was the native West Country dialect of Robert Newton, who played the main characters in several early pirate movies: Treasure Island in 1950, Blackbeard the Pirate in 1952, and Long John Silver in 1954. Here’s a selection of some of Newton’s finest piratical moments: You can already hear some of the phrases that would become standard pirate fare, such as “flay your shriveled tongue” and “scurvy dog.”


So influential was Newton and his interpretation that a variation of West Country English became standard for subsequent portrayals of pirates on stage and screen. In an interview with the Vancouver Sun, Babel elaborated on the similarities between the two:

Speakers of the [West Country] regional dialect tend to emphasize their r’s, unlike other British regions, said Babel. They tend to replace the verbs ‘is’ and ‘are’ with ‘be,’ and indeed, use the word ‘arrr’ in place of ‘yes.’ “If you go to really rural places you’d probably still find people say, ‘I’m sitting in me chair,’ ” Babel said, cautioning that despite the continued usage of these terms, locals probably wouldn’t sound all that much like pirates anymore.

Other features, like the use of do to express a repeated or habitual action, are found among older speakers of West Country English but are perhaps too subtle for most imitators of pirate speech.

It’s not entirely arbitrary that Newton should have used an exaggeration of his own dialect to play Long John Silver. The West Country (the southwest corner of England—including Cornwall, Somerset, Devon, Dorset, and Bristol) has a long seafaring tradition, and so many historical pirates would likely have spoken in a similar way. Both Blackbeard and Sir Francis Drake were from that area, although Sir Francis was technically a privateer.

Interestingly, the West Country’s influence on popular culture isn’t just pirate speech. Newfoundland English is ultimately related to that of the founding settlers from the West Country, and it’s also the dialect of the incredibly catchy 1976 hit song “Combine Harvester.” But perhaps the most famous inhabitant of the West Country is Hagrid from the Harry Potter series. Can’t you just imagine Hagrid saying, “Yer a pirate, Harry”?

I understand that the plywood type used for laser cutting is “water bonded” as opposed to the “resin bonded” type that was traditionally used for model boat building.
Water bonded plywood is usually identified when listed alongside the resin bonded plywood by the sellers for those that wish to laser cut from it.
I usually buy the standard resin bonded plywood for all my projects as I do not laser cut anything.
The wood used for the old models that I restore (usually from the 1960’s sort of time period) have generally survived very well (apart from the low quality plywood used in the Stirling kits) so I like to use the standard resin bonded plywood for my restoration and new build models.

Roycv, thank you for explaining taper charging in the way that you did. I use the lab supply only because I hav it. I thought of using 2 individual SLA chargers but since most wall-wart chargers nowadays lack an isolation transformer inside I was reluctant to try putting 2 SLA chargers in series in case that wud create a huge conflict at 117V line, & a fire hazard.

I shud hav used your word taper in my explanation.

I appreciate the support of you & everyone else here as my expertise in model ships is only now developing at age 75, when there is a bit of cognitive decline.

Here is my latest ship's cat, Chloe from THE SECRET LIFE OF PETS,$3 from the dollar store. Also a Clyde Puffer purchased at a garage sale...it's a part of the THOMAS series & has a smiling face on the front of the wheelhouse.

With laser cut ply in the kits we are now fortunate as they have to use good quality ply to start with.
Roy

The first model boat kits that I made were from those that were available during the 1960’s.
These early kits (often from the 1950’s!) were usually “saw cut” and not die cut, so we had no crushing to worry about, but the accuracy of the parts would only be as good as the person operating the bandsaw!
I like to restore model boats (or make my own replicas) from this time period that includes those from kits by LesRo and Aerokits as well as some from original plans by Vic Smeed .
My Chris Craft Corvette was originally built from a Stirling kit, and although the shape is excellent, the quality of the original plywood used was by far the worst I have yet to come across.☹️

Hi Rod the off the shelf SLA chargers work by taper charging. The terminal voltage is applied and a current limit set. Then as the battery charges the voltage increases and the difference in voltage between the battery and the charger reduces until they are equal.

That is it tapers off until charging complete. The charging current reducing all the while, so it is safe to leave the battery on charge.
Constant current charging is what was used for the Nicad packs.

But if it works then fine.
regards
Roy

No, the battery feeds the ESC to make the 3-wire power for the brushless motor. The ESC has 3 wires going to the motor.

The two 6V SLA batteries are wired in series to give 12V into the ESC.

I charge the 2 batteries (in series) by attaching a lab powersupply. With no connection i set the supply to 14.7V then short the leads together & set the constant current to 1.35A. Then i take the two separate leads & connect them to the batteries. If the batteries are low you will see the display on the lab power supply will read 1.35A until the battery rises a bit towards 14.7V. The displayed current will drop as the batteries take their charge. Eventually the voltmeter will read 14.7 & the current will read really low, like 0.050A at which point i remove my powersupply charger.

The 2 batteries in series are nominally 12V but in reality they are 12.6V in use. I hav a low voltage alarm on my LIPO boats to protect them from being drained too low. I'm currently trying to figure out how to use a LVD module to warn me when these SLAs are close to dying.

Wow, that is great to have three guys looking over you.
I only have this forum and that’s why I asked you the question.
So, the connection is between your battery and the motor, correct?

The fuses came about when a friend (with many,many years experience in both aircraft & boats) assisted me after the motor came loose from its bulkhead mount, separated the tubing/wheelcollar style of coupling, & the friction-fit prop fell off the very end of the driveshaft. FORTUNATELY the prop floated & was retrieved.

One fuse in the battery series hookup, 2 fuses in the input wires of the ESC. Maybe I shud ask him why & write down his answer

I'm so new at most of this that I rely on 3 guys looking over my shoulder & i don't debate tech things with them.

RodC
Thanks again for your postings.
Very clean set up.
I have a question: Why fuses? Between what you set them up?
Thanks.

Chugalone, here are some pics from the build. Unfortunately they are not in order. It's the first time I hav built a vessel since high school. The ZIPPKITS looked simple enough for a newby....no planking. She weighs 8lb with two 6V SLA batteries so very little ballast required.

All bare wood inside is coated with 2 coats of Eze-Coat, a UK product.

I painted her with acrylic porch&floor paint which is self-priming. I bought the recommended brushless motor from ZIPPKITS, it works great!!

RodC
Nice looking Zippy Spring tug.
It’s all done so now we will wait to see it moving around in your nearest lake.
I’m almost done drawing the blueprints for my own Spring tug, soon I will post the blueprints for everyone.
I will build it with 1/4 ply but the next one with 1/8.

I hear you Bobs, it's hard to fault Sterling's scale dimensions. Back in the day you had to massage the kits to the point of madness to even consider putting an engine in them.
Yet, every now and again if you stumble upon one at the local thrift shop or salvation army store they are worth at least trying to save them. 👍
-- Guy

p.s. As for restorations...had a house fire in 2010 and lost many of my kits, but was able to pull this one from the debris and give it a go. 😉

I have been restoring an original Stirling Chris Craft Corvette over some time now and found the quality of the plywood to be truly awful.
Every plywood part has had to be replaced with new wood.
The kit plywood actually crumbles and/or delaminates and so making templates from the remains of the original parts was not as simple a task as it should be either.
The balsa wood has actually aged better (!).
The shape of the boat is really nice but the quality of kit looks to have been very poor.

This posting has been made by zooma - not the duplicated “clone” account shown above 👎

ZIPPKITS lasercut their plywood parts. The laser will be shut off momentarily as it scans, leaving a tiny web to hold the part in the sheet. This web is readily cut with a small boxcutter. Typically 2 to 4 webs hold each part in place.

This is far superior to the diecutting of old.

Every vessel needs a mouser. Cloe (from DOLLARAMA) is obviously a talented mouse, well-fed.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen!
I love Hhager's post about pre-spraying. I tend to paint each piece after the fact with either Varathane or Minwax matte water based coating. It's time consuming, but it helps. On my next project I will switch the procedure all the way around. 😊

Sterling's been out of business for some time now and their die-cutting is the stuff of legend. I have built a few of their larger scale WW1 kits (SE-5 and D-7) and have found the wing ribs generally tough and durable, but the fuse bulkheads where stamped in an inferior balsa and were a a chore. The lack of consistency within each kit could make a grown man cry.

Over the past two days I discovered that the keel of the Caltex Lumba-Lumba was quite tough, but the bulkheads varied from OK to awful. I have completed the repairs...for now. Now it's get the table/board set-up and we are off the the races.
Sadly the decals were shot, but I scanned them and Callie at Callie Graphics is knocking out a new dry-transfer set for me. Her work is top notch! She just saved a Sopwith Camel for me!
😉
Best -- Guy


Happy building!

I usually sprayed with the acrylic ckear spray before pinching out parts. The min wax blue spray not the glossy one. That keeps it from breaking parts n edges. Also waterproofs I’ve done aircraft n boats be them over the years as a kid. I use Cunk thick glue or the Elmer’s resin waterproof glue

good luck

Hi Been there and got the kit. I can say no more as I might be sued.
Have you found the little blobs of metal?

I sympathise, the plywood is something else.
Anon