Guys, guys, guys!!! Of course you have to remove the strip of the film where the other side will be glued to. I thought it goes without saying.😉

Ross the glue is a solvent type of adhesive witch means it soften/melts the plexi so it bonds the 2 surfaces together. If the adhesive gets under the film it does not necessarily mean the it will glue the film to the plexi but it will still soften the plexi under the film and cause an ugly blemish. Len

The "glue" isnt an adhesive, it is a solvent that actually "melts" a thin layer of the adjacent Plexiglas sheets & they ended up "welded" to each other. The clamps, being another material, will not stick to the joint.

Len1. So the film will be glued also. . . Is there any material that glue WON'T adhere to, that could be used to protect the clamping parts?

AndyN I'm sorry but you must remove the protective film at least from around the edges to be glued or the adhesive can wick under the film and glue the film to the plexi.

I thank you all.

Given the costs of specialized companies, I'm sure that I will have to do the work myself.

We will keep you informed of developments.

One more thing, perspex comes with a protective film in most cases. Use it as a masking medium to stop the glue from creeping all over the place.

Learned that the hard way Len!!!! And yes, grown men do cry!😂. But, memories of Stone, Woods, and Cook took away the sad memories. Love the Willys, even though I'm a MOPAR man. 😉

Ross you really do not want anything to be in contact with the plexi at the joint because the adhesive will wick under any thing that is touching the joint. Rounded corners should be OK but be cautious on how much adhesive you apply. The adhesive is water thin and will go every place if too much is applied. Experiment on some scrap pieces to get a feel for it. Len

This is part of the magic of doing the gluing perfectly. There is no reason that the glue joints MUST be done VERTICALLY. Brick is the case, holes are the top PHOTO1. ROTATE case to its side PHOTO2 to glue, ROTATE case to its side PHOTO3 to glue, ROTATE case to its side PHOTO4 to glue.Turn upside down and glue on the top.Glue joint is always at the lower right corner, until the end, when it is at the bottom. (THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX😉)Len1 & hermank could address this problem with better experience

Thanks for the explanation RossM, Len and Hermank.

If you attach photos or drawings to your explanations it's better for me, I can't always understand 100%. Sorry.

I took a look around the web to get tailor-made quotes from specialized companies.
The costs are exaggerated, I really think I'll take courage and build it myself.

I think I'll try gluing but I've already thought of a plan B.

A question for Ross:
putting the four sides as you say the union sides would be vertical, right? Isn't there a risk that the glue will sink to the bottom before drying and producing its effect?

Len1 Would the glue adhere to the metal corner guards of the ratchet clamps? Those tiny brackets would keep the glue away from the strap. The white brackets, for the inside, are curved at the corner and wouldn't touch the glue. Your point is well taken

Len 1
You are 100% wright. The saw is indeed one of the key issues
Good to inform our Italian friend

The following is from my experience in makin plixi covers in an industrial capacity for years. One thing that has not been addressed is the quality of the saw cut edges. The appearance of the finished glued joint depends on the quality of the joining surfaces. Usually a saw cut surface will only give a fair appearance. The best thing is to follow up the saw cut by running the edge past a router.
Also make sure that any clamps or rubber straps are not in contact with the edges to do joined since the adhesive is water thin it will wick to the outside of the joint if anything is touching it. You need to put thin pieces/spacers of cardboard between the straps and the plexi near the joint but set back a little so that the shim/spacer is not touching the joint. Len

To do it SAFELY (less risk of mistakes)
4 side sheets, ready to go
Make ready 8 90 degree brackets, like the white one that I showed, 4 at bottom 4 at top with 2 clamps each. This assures all joints are 90 degrees
Glue up ONE joint
Set 8 brackets and 16 clamps
Set 2 strap clamps until dry
REPEAT for other 3 joints
Add top and strap clamps
Let dry
Or have it built by a company

Hi RossM, so you are advising me to glue everything together (four faces) after joining them and not two faces at a time?
Did I get it right.

Hi Hermank, I thank you for the trust and esteem you place in me, but I have to be honest, I'm not afraid. I'm very scared!

I'm not an expert model maker; As I always say: I am inexperienced. I certainly have less experience than you in naval modeling, but what matters is that the experience in building display cases for models is zero.

My fear is due to the high costs of plexiglass, so I don't want to risk making a mistake and throwing everything away.

I will also consider AndyN's advice to buy it already made.

However, if I decide to take a risk and do it myself I will show you the pictures and the construction phases.

Finally Hermank, just to recap, do you recommend the glue indicated in the Jumpugly link?

Thanks again for your patience and availability.

For clamping the joints tight under pressure the strap clamp could help. The 4 little pieces of metal go over the four corner. For the scale of your project I would think you need 2 strap clamps

Alessandro amigo
For such an experienced builder as yourself you shouldn’t be afraid to use the adhesive mentionned. I worked in the Perspex industry and chloroform was the best choice then

You can always look for a company that makes cases. It might save you time and money.

Thanks everyone for the advice.
I see that the matter is quite complicated, not at all simple and very difficult to do at home. Luckily I'm not in a hurry.
I have to evaluate whether it isn't easier to create a fixed wooden frame with grooves into which the plexiglass sheets can slide, without therefore gluing anything.

AndyN, don't you have any photos of the display cases you made?

I use a a shelf bracket, instead of a square, available in Canada from hardware stores or building supply stores. it is easy to clap to, and has a large flat surface. (you will see it in use in the BUILD BLOG)😁

I can see all the advise so far is spot on however since I built many cases in my life and worked with acrylic for 20 years I can throw in couple of cents. Ideally you want to cut the pieces on the saw or laser. The adhesive I used was either plastic weld type already mentioned below, chlorophorm or dychloromethan.
The method I discovered couple of years ago was a humble UV glue(permabond for example). Easy to use, non toxic and holds the case pretty well.
Cutting the pieces at 45deg is commonly used method but requires high level of accuracy.

Hope you succeed Alessandro. Fingers crossed

Here's the Weld-On link that HermanK was referring to Alessandro. The fascinating thing about this stuff is that it evaporates from the can extraordinarily fast. But, a little bit goes a long way.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=143512&srsltid=AfmBOornyD4jCGuQTa1uSIIREBVZAMDptHOZP2HSfLTiHLm7tXwsCkBRi6s

This video is helpful too....
https://www.tapplastics.com/product_info/videos/play/how_to_glue_acrylic

Alessandro that can be done ,just make shure that the two plates are joined together thight!!!!!
when you go on you tube on put in plexiglas( which is a registerd trade name) or perspex case you can follow the way to do it without problems.

Thank you Hermank for your advice and information.

We completely agree on the 45° cut, it offers a greater bonding surface, is more stable and is better from an aesthetic point of view.

Do you have any links on the glue as an example?

The gluing phase discourages me a little because it is not easy to create such a support.
I had thought of using carpenter's squares and fixing them to the plexiglass sheets.

ALESSANDRO amigo italiano,
as jumingly said it is not simple. The " adhesive " used is WELD-ON. It has the same viscosity almost like water and needs to be applied with an injection needle an in a very aerated place because of the smell so you don't get "high". The acrylplates should have a 45 ° cut at all edges that need to be glued. The best thing is to make a sort of holder where you can put in the 2 plates and where the joints could stay together firmly. When you use this adhesive you will not see where the plates of perspex or acrylic are glued. It will not be an easy job when you are not familiar with this sort of glue. There is a video on you tube where you can see how to do it. I hope this info helps and please take all the safety recommandations as safety googles

Thanks Jumpugly.
I certainly won't cut the plexiglass myself, I'll follow your advice.
I will have the seller cut it but I have to go there with precise ideas and measurements.
I'm considering whether to tackle the gluing phase alone.
For the base I understood, it's the same way I imagined, then I'll make a drawing.
Your advice was very helpful; I will wait for further information, I hope that some forum member has already built such a large display case themselves.

Yes it can be done Alessandro, but with difficulty. Cutting plexiglass/lexan type products not always as simple as “scribing and snapping” so professional cutting, to size, is highly recommended. Glue joints in plexiglass are done with an extremely thin glue (that smells to high heaven) and is applied with a hypodermic needle once the surfaces are joined together. It take’s careful clamping and a mountain of patience as this glue us usually applied in a vertical orientation…meaning the glue will travel down your join. It’s nerve wracking! Generally anyone who cuts lexan or plexiglass will have the proper glue and can probably do the joining as well. I’ve found it’s well worth the expense. There is nothing worse than properly cut plexi with a poorly applied glue to your join. The base is the easiest part with an edge molding higher that the base itself to cradle your plexi. I have also found that the larger the model the more need for a frame and/or heavier quarter inch thick plexi. I hope this helps a bit although I think my response may feel a bit negative as I have managed to mess up as many cases as I have done successfully.😉