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Thank you for the reply. I got them running but I put everything on a work bench and it easy to see how everything is wire and easy to test all connections. I will keep everyone posted.

Thanks again

Electronise esc's come with the red/black/white receiver wire with 2 of the wires disconnnected when new, well mine did last week, same model!

I think its incase you have a different wiring set up, but cant think why. You have to just push the 2 small connector pins into the connector block, MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE CORRECT ORDER! or it wont work. The motor wires are blue and yellow, but dont have pos/neg markings, you cannot do any damage if you get them the wrong way round, the motor will just run the wrong way, so make the connections temporary before soldering to check its right. I would recommend Deans connectors, not tamiya etc, as they fit together tight, are polarity matched so you cant get it wrong, and carry much higher amperage than tamiya.
DONT GET THE BATTERY WIRES WRONG! as that will blow the esc and invalidate the warranty, I thnk thats what you are referring to! 😊

Electronise esc's come with the red/black/white receiver wire with 2 of the wires disconnnected when new, well mine did last week, same model!

I think its incase you have a different wiring set up, but cant think why. You have to just push the 2 small connector pins into the connector block, MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE CORRECT ORDER! or it wont work. The motor wires are blue and yellow, but dont have pos/neg markings, you cannot do any damage if you get them the wrong way round, the motor will just run the wrong way, so make the connections temporary before soldering to check its right. I would recommend Deans connectors, not tamiya etc, as they fit together tight, are polarity matched so you cant get it wrong, and carry much higher amperage than tamiya.
DONT GET THE BATTERY WIRES WRONG! as that will blow the esc and invalidate the warranty, I thnk thats what you are referring to! 😊

There is a good site that gives information on battery performance in a relatively simple form.

This is " mpoweruk.com " under Electrical Energy Storage/Battery Performance, it is worth looking at.

thanks for your reply.,
No worries, were all on here to help each other if we can of course !
I often find that a little advise here and there can soon help to resolve a problem or headache. you may not get the 100% clear answer you wanted, but the info helps sort things out.

Afterall, every boat and its setup is different, er no one sticks to the building instructions!

best of luck with yours.

Gregory Thank you very much for the reply. When I said the draw by the motors that is when they are running a max speed which will not be the case here. I think my problem occurred when I was trying to align the receiver wires. Futuba has a cutout on the end of receiver(prevent from plugging in incorrectly) and with the hitec one can easily plug it incorrectly. I have built a test bench with everything I need in the boat. This way one can easily test the entire apparatus before putting it into the boat.

Greg I might have some questions later on but thank you for your reply

Don

HI Don6398
As gregoryk9 says your speed controllers each need to connect their three wires (red,black,white) to the receiver.
I do not understand when you say the red and black are not connected. in many ways a speed controller is identical to a servo with regard to the control signal so needs to have this connection to work.
Then again I do believe Electronize used to supply their units with different plugs to allow you to select either a Futaba type connector or Hitec etc. in that case you need to put the black lead into the left slot, the red lead into the middle slot and the white lead into the right slot. I suggest you look at one of your servo leads and copy the wiring.
The other four wires will be much thicker. Red to battery positive, Black to battery negative, and if my memory is correct Yellow and Blue to you motor.
Yes you do have all the wires connected - 1 3pin plug to your servo, 1 3 pin plug to a speed controller, 1 3 pin plug to the other speed controller, 1 3pin plug to your 4.8v receiver battery or switch harness.
I am not familiar with your distribution box (harbor models) but assuming this is just for the 12v supply it should not affect the receiver side.
Motor draws of 12amps will as gregoryk9 says not give you a long run on you 7Ahr battery. However gel cells are designed to give more power than their rated capacity - this is really just a measure of what capacity the makers claim the battery will deliver for 1 hour. if the battery gets very hot after a run then I suggest you uprate or possibly change to NiMh/NiCad.
Do ensure that all the high current (ie motor wires) are kept well away from the receiver signal wires and your aerial. Also some form of suppression in the form of capacitors around the motor connections would ensure you don't experience interference at distant range. Hope this answers your questions. Good luck
dave 😛

HI Don6398
As gregoryk9 says your speed controllers each need to connect their three wires (red,black,white) to the receiver.
I do not understand when you say the red and black are not connected. in many ways a speed controller is identical to a servo with regard to the control signal so needs to have this connection to work.
Then again I do believe Electronize used to supply their units with different plugs to allow you to select either a Futaba type connector or Hitec etc. in that case you need to put the black lead into the left slot, the red lead into the middle slot and the white lead into the right slot. I suggest you look at one of your servo leads and copy the wiring.
The other four wires will be much thicker. Red to battery positive, Black to battery negative, and if my memory is correct Yellow and Blue to you motor.
Yes you do have all the wires connected - 1 3pin plug to your servo, 1 3 pin plug to a speed controller, 1 3 pin plug to the other speed controller, 1 3pin plug to your 4.8v receiver battery or switch harness.
I am not familiar with your distribution box (harbor models) but assuming this is just for the 12v supply it should not affect the receiver side.
Motor draws of 12amps will as gregoryk9 says not give you a long run on you 7Ahr battery. However gel cells are designed to give more power than their rated capacity - this is really just a measure of what capacity the makers claim the battery will deliver for 1 hour. if the battery gets very hot after a run then I suggest you uprate or possibly change to NiMh/NiCad.
Do ensure that all the high current (ie motor wires) are kept well away from the receiver signal wires and your aerial. Also some form of suppression in the form of capacitors around the motor connections would ensure you don't experience interference at distant range. Hope this answers your questions. Good luck
dave

Are you really sure about the total current draw off the motors? as surely at 12 - 14 amps, your 7amp/hr battery is not going to last long, both in running time or in battery life as you will be doing serious damage to the cells with such a high current draw from such a low amperage battery. realistically you should be looking to ahve a battery capacity at least half more than the current draw, to give you some capacity or safety margin for high load draw. running under capacity could mean you buy more batteries than you can recharge . purely because the batteries have nbeen damaged internally by such high current draw.

I admittidly run close to the line with my own boat which has 2 motors running at 4 amps a piece, but have a 10 amp/hr battery in place.

as for the power controllers, I presume you still have to supply them with power to operate the throttle via this lead, as the other cables will be 2 for the motor and 2 for main battery supply. so yes this lead still needs to go to the reciever so as you operate the throttle, it give the controllers the input they need to bring the motor speeds up and down accordingly to stick position.

dont forget, if you want to loose the seperate battery pack for the reciever/servo's you can buy a simply electronic power dropper and use the main battery to supply the reciever, thus cuting down on a bit of surplus weight, especially if you may have to run a bigger battery by the sound of things.