Hi Pete5, the last build blog in your email by a member of the Luton club is a work of art beautifully made and finished.
After I saw the actual model I went back to mine and made a better job of it.
Roy

These really help

I hope to get the model in early November after our clubs annual meeting when the person selling the kit and I have arranged to meet up.

Hi Ronald,
I built Mary Ann recently, as my first build of a scale boat. I also converted her to RC during the build. I think the boat, and the kit, make a great project. The modifications to make it RC weren’t too difficult and it sails well.

As suggested by Roy in an earlier post, I think that resin coating (ideally fibreglassed as well) will make it a much more reliable boat on the water. Early on in the build I found that gaps/splits were easily opened up in the single layer planking, so I put a fine fibreglass coating over the lot and ended up with a very strong hull.

Here are a few links that might be useful…

I posted a detailed build log on the Ships of Scale website...

https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/mary-ann-by-billing-boats-472-complet

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMJIf0h6SnYPfXfcZ-VHl6UvKgAAkJUX0EvDwMxDjeA

https://lutonmodelboat.co.uk/Building-Mary-Ann.html

Those two examples were German registered shrimp boats that were found to illustrate how the actual vessel design is used in various countries.

Like you said Billings uses the same hull to produce different variations of fishing vessels.

I like your Scottish one you revised

This is not a UK registered boat as the home port registration letters would be bold on the bow and she also has a sharp pointed stern and not rounded as per the Norwegian boat Mary Ann.
Nice picture though I think now stored elseware on my laptop.

My newly restored Scottish western Isles fishing boat hit the water a week or so back.
Roy

Just the rigging and masts seem to be different but the hull and wheelhouse appear to be similar.

Billing also offer the CUX 87 shrimp boat kit.
This uses exactly the same hull as the Mary Ann. I checked the Billing identification numbers for the printed wood sheets and they are the same.
Roy

Hi all Mary Ann.

The kit in the picture looks old. The kits currently on sale have the fittings in with them. A test is to check the fittings, if the trawl board arches are brass it is an older kit if they are laser cut wood they are modern and rather fragile.

When building, the deck once inserted in place keeps the hull square but I suggest that a clamped straight edge along the keel should also be used.

However,when keel is cut out the first thing is to discard the propeller shaft in the kit and replace tube and use a narrow one with M4 or 4BA threads and a 35 mm 3 bladed propeller.

Mark the outline of where it is to lay on the keel and cut a doubler of required thickness and stick in place. Then cut the slot for the prop tube in the wood of the keel and fit it and glue it in place, then glue the second doubler over it. I use Marx Luder monoperms but a 385 motor should work as well.

The access for the rudder tiller is under the false stern deck platform which should not be glued in place. I made a brass rudder, set the stock tube in place and have the keel extension screwed in place with a small length of brass tube as a lower bearing.

The rudder can be operated by a 9 gramme servo. The deck opening for batteries, motor and radio are best made before inserting the deck.
You must take into account that the deck has a curve from stern to bow but otherwise flat. The removable section has to have the same curve.

Decide whether you want to detail the wheel house and if you want to have lights etc first so that wires can be inserted.
I use a special shape 6 cell sub-C nimh pack in 2 off 3 cell, side by side units under the main mast, if you use LiPo then some extra ballast is needed. Full speed at 1 amp on 7.2 volts works nicely.
The small unit with visible components is the esc. Around £2 each from Aliexpress they work well, I have a lot of them and never had a failure.

Probably a good idea to use a resin finish on the wood after planking, as in use, as in full size, the planks can spring giving leaks.

Hope that helps.
Roy

Bob

The measurements are 22”x6.5” beam rail to keel 4” according to the fella who is selling it. It was built as a static model but I intend to open up the deck and install a stuffing box, rudder post, then seal it inside and out. $20 CDN comes with the fittings.

That is a nice little trawler fishing boat.

How long is the model when built?

Bob.